Mini Hobby's Mi-24D Hind attack helicopter in 1:48 scale

Zsolt Czegle
Following! 🙂

Michael Phillips
Following! I wonder how this one compares with the Monogram... We sure need a new tool Hind in 48th!

Treehugger
Fun to hear! 🙂

I looked at the clear parts and I was happy to see that they clear parts are pretty much very clear, a nice surprise. Only one small window on the side has some minor artifact in the plastic. I might be able to just use clear foil and clear that up.

I have since realized that the photo I used, is not a Hind-D. Will have to change that later.

This kit has two versions D and P. D has the minigun, and the P has the two larger cannons on the side but without the minigun. Not 100% sure what version I would like to build. I wonder if I could have both.

I am curious to see if this model will fit inside my Ikea Detolf glass cabinet, I think it might.

Daniel Klink
Nice choice treehugger.. Watching this👍

Treehugger
🙂 I have a good feeling about this kit. I shouldn't buy all this aftermarket stuff, but there isn't any other good Hind in 1:48 scale afaik, and my impression is that the 1:35 one isn't that much better (but the relatively best perhaps). The most impressive detail might end up being the aftermarket rocket pods (UB-32A-24). I wanted this in 1:48 to match the other heli kits I have. 1:35 is also a little too big for my taste. I found some even better rocket pods than the Eduard resin, if only they get more in stock as I will need two (four pods).

Treehugger
Btw, by carving out the holes here, it makes it easier to fit the exhaust pipe, and because I have putty on my carefully sanded exhaust opening, I have to make sure the putty isn't dented. The "thin" holes helps with the fitting, otherwise the thicker plastic will easily start cutting into the exhaust opening part.

Treehugger
I am struggling with finding out what color scheme is appropriate. I think I will simply try out some color schemes on some scrap model and see what it looks like. It would be important to use a sensible primer color, so that things are just about right with regard to the final color being lighter or darker.

Bryn Crandell
Watching with great interest...as usual.

Treehugger
I found a nice photo without the exhaust pipe blocking the view. I have added another layer of 0.5 x 0.5 mm styrene strip since the last photo showing that.

Treehugger
Hm. I see now that the two sides aren't 100% symmetric. I will have to add a third strip at the bottom on the eh right half of the hull. The difference is 0.5 mm so that is very nice, I can just add one more strip and the two holes on the two halves becomes more symmetrical. Ok, so I measured, and it seems that the eh hole on the right side half of the heli kit fuselage, was 0.5 smaller in height at the bottom. The top sides were symmetrical. 🙂

I am glad I spotted this twist in time.

Alexander Grivonev
Wow, you are being serious with this one, good luck!

Bart Goesaert
Looking good so far. the tailboom should be lengthened too. See the CMK-upgrade kit instructions (scalemates.com/kits/113377-cmk-4138-mi-24v-revised-set) as I recall the length of the stub-wings was also off... When the exhausts don't have the cover in place, don't forget to add the drive shaft:

[img1]

maybe also off interest
britmodeller.com/for..-air-force-finished/

Treehugger
Haha, so that is what that thing is, inside the exhaust opening, the drive shafts?

I will investigate and see if I can do something with the tail length and the two fins.

I think I will have to do without that CMK correction kit. Only interesting thing would have been the wings, but I think I will have to work on the wings myself.

Aftermarket parts so far:
Wheels w. separate wheel caps, pitot tube, gun barrel, resin cockpit, exterior photo etch set.

Aftermarket parts, to order:
2 x packs of resin rocket pods (four in total)

I will attempt to scratch build the landing gear. 🙂

Spanjaard
so you are making your own putty with the tamiya extra thin and some bits of plastic.... interesting. i need to remember that when my bottle is almost done 🙂

Treehugger
@Spanjaard , for putty I prefer the Vallejo's acrylic based putty, but the sprue goo is good for reinforcing the existing bonds between plastic parts on the inside of a model. Also a good idea to put some on any thin styrene (one the backside), if you plan to do some aggressive sanding, as the styrene might be ripped off when it gets too thin when only having been glued with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Some sprue goo makes the styrene more solidly glued on.

If you are not careful, you may see some thin threads of plastic which may end up on the model, but really not a big issue. The goo is liquid when leaving the bottle, but may cause a thread to appear if you spend too much time fiddling around.

Spanjaard
thanks Treehugger

Treehugger
So I want to scratch build the landing gear, to avoid using the not-that-good-looking kits parts.

Seems to me that the dimensions might be:

Main landing gear, thickest part = 3 mm
Main landing gear, actuator = 2 mm
Main landing gear, supporting rods = 1.5 mm (looks like half the thickness of the thickest part)
Nose gear, thickest part = 2.5 mm
Nose gear, actuator = 1.5 mm

I wonder if there are hobby products that sell bits of shiny steel rods 2 mm and 1.5 mm thick.

Update:
Looks like I have ABS pipe 3mm wide outside and 2mm wide on the inside. 🙂
Only need various steel rods, which I ordered this evening.

I will have to do an evaluation to see if this solution is good or not, regarding the dimensions of all the parts and the overall look.