Kenworth SAR
SAR bonnet vs. W900 bonnet.
Resin engine block and oil cooler/waterpump assembly.
Replacement parts built using CAT references and images
Corrected fuel filter block and air compressor mount
Water pump, oil cooler, front lifting hook all scratch built.
Scratchbuilt compressor
First coat of Zero Paints CAT yellow
Reworked turbocharger
Rectification of Eaton gearbox
Scratchbuilt compressor, TRW power steering pump, fuel filter, ECU, rear lifting hook, wiring harness.
Added scratchbuilt A/C compressor, altenator and mounts. Scratchbuilt main crank pulley, idlers and belts still to be added
Trailer 2 test fit to chassis. The project is to build an Australian b-double curtain side truck/trailer combination. The trailer is a generic Auslowe tri-axle modified to represent a Freighter trailers unit. There is another tri-axle 1/2 trailer still to build.
CTM axle and brass rod u-bolts.
Aluminium sheet for fuel tank strap mounts.
Fuel tanks PVC piping wrapped in aluminium cut from baking trays and fixed using Microscale Metal Foil adhesive
Rebuilt radiator.
Rebuilt radiator. A/C radiator, receiver dryer, coolant expansion tank and air intake scoops to be added.
Test fitting axles.
Engine and chassis detail
Replaced kit axle with CTM axle
Test fitting axle assembly
Airglide 100 suspension with brake chambers, actuators and reworked brake drums. Air valves, fittings and hoses still to be completed.
Test fitting scratchbuilt rear light bar.
Fuel tanks test fit
Laminated styrene used to scratch build accurate torque rod mounts.
Engine test fit
Front axle now in correct location
Corrected front springs and gas shock mounts
Pair of front shock absorbers
Kit vs. scratch built shock absorber
コメント
6 3 June 2022, 09:08
BozzerI'll stick around for this, if that's ok? Keen to pick up some ideas and tips.
14 May 2023, 21:47
BozzerWell I've got a few resin transkits now, so I'm interested in how you modify everything to fit, and obviously the prep work that's needed to be done, before you hit the paint booth? I'm aware that resin doesn't like certain substances, so what are you going to use?
16 May 2023, 03:23
David WolffIt's mostly a lot of test fitting. I was able to get drawings of the original including dimensions which helped. I made the mistake of accepting the trans kit instructions for some of the build steps and discovered that the front axle was 2.4mm too far forward. This was why I ended up scratch building the front springs. I use a lot of reference material (mostly from the internet) and draw to scale any parts I need to make. To take measurements I use a selection of steel rulers, compass and a micrometer as well as Tamiya tape for curved sections. I'll try and include some examples. I always wash the resin in warm soapy water and air dry. To paint I use Mr Surfacer as a primer - this helps show up any imperfections or bubbles in the resin and is also a filler. Larger holes I use either cyanoacrylate and accelerant, sanding straight away as it is much harder than the resin when fully cured. I also use Green Stuff and Mr White Putty. As the Mr Surfacer is a filler as well it dries quite evenly and only needs a light rub over with 2000 grade wet and dry sandpaper. I usually use Zero Paints over the primer as although they smell they airbrush well and are rapid drying.
16 May 2023, 14:51
BozzerExcellent information! I look forward to seeing this come together! I have a Mack F type, Diamond T, Mack R 700 and a few others, that escape my memory. I'll try not to chip in, and give everyone else a chance to comment. Thanks again buddy 👍
16 May 2023, 20:25
Album info
Converting a 900 series Kenworth to SAR (Short Australian Right-hand drive). Replacing the kit engine (CAT V8) to a CAT C15 and adding a 36" high-rise sleeper.
