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William Robertson
started this item
started this item
Pz.Kpfw V Panther Ausf. G 'Steel Wheel Version' | German Army Battle Tank
Hasegawa 1:72
31137 (MT37) 1997 New parts 1 October, 08:37
Mona
added a new photoalbum.
added a new photoalbum.
5 15 September, 21:08
Jakko
added a new photoalbum.
added a new photoalbum.
61 images
Sherman BARVNew: 30 September, 13:52 1:35
The tracks were painted with a wash of dark red-brown paint over the grey, then drybrushed with a medium metallic colour...
Project: Sherman BARV, D-Day
36 2 July, 20:50
gorby
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
5 July, 06:33
Jakko
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
5 July, 08:53
Jakko
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
9 July, 08:59
Ben M
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
9 July, 11:58
Mr D
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
9 July, 13:30
Jakko
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
9 July, 17:09
Mr D
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
11 July, 12:55
Jakko
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
11 July, 17:41
Robert Podkoński
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
16 July, 15:17
Jakko
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
16 July, 17:21
Mr D
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
25 July, 21:06
Jakko
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
26 July, 08:57
Ben M
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.
My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.
My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
30 September, 16:06
Mr D
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍
30 September, 16:20
Jakko
Thanks, guys 🙂
> I enjoy your in progress photos.
Speaking for myself, I much prefer looking at how a model was built, than how it looks when it's finished 🙂
> My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
I take it you mean the No. 19 set 'B' aerial …
Thanks, guys 🙂
> I enjoy your in progress photos.
Speaking for myself, I much prefer looking at how a model was built, than how it looks when it's finished 🙂
> My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
I take it you mean the No. 19 set 'B' aerial …
30 September, 17:08
Xu Ho
added a new photoalbum.
added a new photoalbum.
13 10 February, 23:01
Anatolii Smyshliaiev
added a new photoalbum.
added a new photoalbum.
23 26 September, 17:45
Anatolii Smyshliaiev
Ever since I was a kid I wanted to have a good model of this elegant plane. I've assembled both NOVO/FROG and Special Hobby. Not the same. The Clear Prop model is a step higher.
P.S. I haven't quite figured out how to link the project to the model yet, sorry.
Ever since I was a kid I wanted to have a good model of this elegant plane. I've assembled both NOVO/FROG and Special Hobby. Not the same. The Clear Prop model is a step higher.
P.S. I haven't quite figured out how to link the project to the model yet, sorry.
26 September, 18:00
Cuajete
Finally a good 1/72 plastic model of this aircraft. Looks like Clear Prop did a good job. I'm stuck with the Airfix one and the KP one doesn't seem to be a good representation.
Fantastic result. Very nice model.
Congrats!
I think to link a project to an album you have to create a new project (from projects --> add new project) and then link or create an album to the project
Finally a good 1/72 plastic model of this aircraft. Looks like Clear Prop did a good job. I'm stuck with the Airfix one and the KP one doesn't seem to be a good representation.
Fantastic result. Very nice model.
Congrats!
I think to link a project to an album you have to create a new project (from projects --> add new project) and then link or create an album to the project
26 September, 18:31
Anatolii Smyshliaiev
Thank you.
I couldn't connect the project with the model, although I have the model in my stash. And the project with the album too. I'll figure it out.
Thank you.
I couldn't connect the project with the model, although I have the model in my stash. And the project with the album too. I'll figure it out.
26 September, 19:13
Mr D
1) Add it to stash from kits list,
2) Status= Started.
3) Go to Edit...scroll down to link project, Select the desired kit from list.
Should be all good then
Nice build 👍👍 nice shiny red, was this the plane that had X2 engine's inline??
1) Add it to stash from kits list,
2) Status= Started.
3) Go to Edit...scroll down to link project, Select the desired kit from list.
Should be all good then
Nice build 👍👍 nice shiny red, was this the plane that had X2 engine's inline??
26 September, 19:22
Anatolii Smyshliaiev
The model from Clear Prop is definitely better than KP and all the others in terms of geometry, detailing and quality.
It is also possible to purchase an engine (DH.88 Engine (Clear Prop! CPA72141, 1:72)) and make an open hood. But this is already an amateur's choice
The model from Clear Prop is definitely better than KP and all the others in terms of geometry, detailing and quality.
It is also possible to purchase an engine (DH.88 Engine (Clear Prop! CPA72141, 1:72)) and make an open hood. But this is already an amateur's choice
26 September, 19:30
Anatolii Smyshliaiev
Thanks, I'll try it next time.
Engine according to Wikipedia 2 × de Havilland Gipsy Six R air-cooled six-cylinder inverted inline, 230 hp
Thanks, I'll try it next time.
Engine according to Wikipedia 2 × de Havilland Gipsy Six R air-cooled six-cylinder inverted inline, 230 hp
26 September, 19:38
Mr D
😲 wow.... powerful beast in its time.
Thanks for info.... very smart airframe 👍👍
😲 wow.... powerful beast in its time.
Thanks for info.... very smart airframe 👍👍
26 September, 22:12
Mickaël Gaspar
added a new photoalbum.
added a new photoalbum.
43 12 January 2023, 20:43
Slackbladder
Poor old Y-Wings, bit like the guys who wear the red shirts in Star Trek - always the first to get shot. Nice build. That big red circle display in the cockpit looks like it should have " DO NOT PRESS!" written on it though and ejects the engine pods if you do.
Poor old Y-Wings, bit like the guys who wear the red shirts in Star Trek - always the first to get shot. Nice build. That big red circle display in the cockpit looks like it should have " DO NOT PRESS!" written on it though and ejects the engine pods if you do.
25 February 2023, 18:30
Mickaël Gaspar
Thanks, i improvised a bit for the cockpit and also for the outside because the decals were way too old and i tried to match the right colors but i'm colorblind...
Thanks, i improvised a bit for the cockpit and also for the outside because the decals were way too old and i tried to match the right colors but i'm colorblind...
25 February 2023, 20:28
Antoine Meylan
added a new photoalbum.
added a new photoalbum.
3 images
Ducati 9161:12
Petite prise de mesure pour découper des masques sur ma Silhouette. Rien que la pièce avec les pignon, couronne et chain...
Project: Ducati 916
1 28 September, 15:45
schecter87
Hi! I Just finished the same model and it was quite interesting. Will be interesting to follow your progress.
Hi! I Just finished the same model and it was quite interesting. Will be interesting to follow your progress.
1 October, 08:02
bruno egral
added a new photoalbum.
added a new photoalbum.
7 20 September, 08:31
bruno egral
C'est ma 1ere 'big five' : un kit que je voulais faire depuis 20 ans !
C'est ma 1ere 'big five' : un kit que je voulais faire depuis 20 ans !
20 September, 08:39
Spanjaard
i managed to get my hand in another boxing of the same kit... also wanting to have it for more than 20 years, really curious about what it can be done with it 🙂
i managed to get my hand in another boxing of the same kit... also wanting to have it for more than 20 years, really curious about what it can be done with it 🙂
20 September, 08:57
Spanjaard
it is still possible to get the kit but it certainly is getting more and more expensive....
it is still possible to get the kit but it certainly is getting more and more expensive....
20 September, 20:01
Stéphane Jayet
Kit difficile à trouver, j'espère la monter un jour.... Bon montage
Kit difficile à trouver, j'espère la monter un jour.... Bon montage
20 September, 21:27
Spanjaard
not difficult to find....difficult to pay, maybe 😉 there are 3 for sale, here in SCM, for example. Prices go from 70USD to 99EUR (+Shipping, I assume)
and there is one kit of the other boxing also for 70USD
not difficult to find....difficult to pay, maybe 😉 there are 3 for sale, here in SCM, for example. Prices go from 70USD to 99EUR (+Shipping, I assume)
and there is one kit of the other boxing also for 70USD
20 September, 22:26
Spanjaard
I got one for a good friend, but I was really lucky to find it locally and for a very good price.
I got one for a good friend, but I was really lucky to find it locally and for a very good price.
20 September, 22:28
Martin Oostrom
I know that friend!
Definitely watching this one. It seems Bruno and I share the same taste for cars 😁
I know that friend!
Definitely watching this one. It seems Bruno and I share the same taste for cars 😁
21 September, 05:51
bruno egral
C'est un miracle : je cherchais sans y croire ce kit sur un grand site marchand bien connu. Mais il était très cher et au Japon ou aux Usa. Et un jour j'en trouve un à un prix raisonnable (80 euros tout de même) en France. J'ai foncé et tout c'est très bien passé : kit et décals en parfait état, juste la boîte un peu passé. Et le vendeur super sympa en plus. J'étais ravi.
C'est un miracle : je cherchais sans y croire ce kit sur un grand site marchand bien connu. Mais il était très cher et au Japon ou aux Usa. Et un jour j'en trouve un à un prix raisonnable (80 euros tout de même) en France. J'ai foncé et tout c'est très bien passé : kit et décals en parfait état, juste la boîte un peu passé. Et le vendeur super sympa en plus. J'étais ravi.
21 September, 07:21
bruno egral
Et toutes les pièces étaient sur leur grappe dans leur sachet plastique scellé. Sur la photo j'ai déjà commencé le kit : bain, séchage et début du dégrappage.
Et toutes les pièces étaient sur leur grappe dans leur sachet plastique scellé. Sur la photo j'ai déjà commencé le kit : bain, séchage et début du dégrappage.
21 September, 07:25
Spanjaard
yes, I paid very similar for mine....I thought, it will only increase, so it is now or never, I was in love with it when I was looking at the tamiya catalogue back in the 90's..... never expected to eventually getting another even cheaper! now, let's concentrate in the beauty you are going to build 🙂
yes, I paid very similar for mine....I thought, it will only increase, so it is now or never, I was in love with it when I was looking at the tamiya catalogue back in the 90's..... never expected to eventually getting another even cheaper! now, let's concentrate in the beauty you are going to build 🙂
21 September, 18:25
Przemyslaw Sroczynski
added a new photoalbum.
added a new photoalbum.
5 15 September, 19:49
Michael Kohl
Following. Still struggling with my Revell/Modeltrans/OKB Grigorov Merk. Also bought the EMP3D ball and chain armour but see that you used the balls only. Anxious to hear why. Where did you find the super fine chain? I didn't.
Following. Still struggling with my Revell/Modeltrans/OKB Grigorov Merk. Also bought the EMP3D ball and chain armour but see that you used the balls only. Anxious to hear why. Where did you find the super fine chain? I didn't.
1 October, 04:48
Shar Dipree
Following.
I had also thought about replicating the chainball armor with chains for my two Merkavas and tried but failed because the chains I found all seemed too big.
Following.
I had also thought about replicating the chainball armor with chains for my two Merkavas and tried but failed because the chains I found all seemed too big.
1 October, 06:28
Michael Kohl
I was elated when EMP3D released the ball and chain armour and I ordered it and it looks very good. So I am anxious to know why Pryzemyslav discarded it.
I was elated when EMP3D released the ball and chain armour and I ordered it and it looks very good. So I am anxious to know why Pryzemyslav discarded it.
1 October, 08:10
Ingo F
owns this item
owns this item
Russian Soldier of Internal Troops - Machine gunner Chechen War
Live Resin 1:35
LRM35124 2024 New tool 1 October, 08:09
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