News Feed
Goodsyadded a new photoalbum.
10 images
Tamiya 24054 1/24 Peugeot 205 Turbo 16 Works Rally Car
1:24
Scratchbuilt
3 26 December, 23:47
Michael Kohladded a new photoalbum.
39 4 December, 11:33
Michael KohlThose familiar with the kit might have noticed the absence of the firewall. I simply lost it and decided that I will just omit it as it is invisible anyway.
5 December, 17:42
bughunterA very interesting plane! You made a good progress with another (parallel?) project 👍
5 December, 18:39
Thomas Haberl - TH SCALE MODELSInteresting build and very promising start - I´m in for this 🙂
9 December, 09:13
NicolasInteresting approach to simply sand the control surface structure in the primer. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a good result.
18 December, 13:53
Denis DogadovAs a base for the red color, you need to use yellow, then the red will be bright.If you put red on white, you will get just pink.
18 December, 14:08
bughunterMichael, using different primers for one top coat is my idea! The usage of my idea is geBIERenpflichtig! 🙂
18 December, 15:38
Łukasz GlińskiLooks like you're the partial member of The Infanous Order of The Pink Primer 😋
18 December, 18:19
Michael Kohl@ Nicolas: I cross my fingers too. But looks like I have to do some homework before the final coat (see below 🙂 )
@ Denis: thanks for your input. I tested your suggestion on a scrab wing. With LP-7 I get a nice hue as well over white primer and pink base alike. Problem is that there is almost no difference between them. Over yellow (XF-3) the red receives a rather orange hue which I do not like for this project. But I am optimistic to finetune that and use lighter yellow or buff as base coat and see how that turns out. I'll keep you posted.
@Frank: So, se wollen erheben ne kleene GeBIER?!
Da trifft es sich ja gut, dass mein diesjähriger Adventskalender aus 24 Flaschen feinem fränkischen Bier aus 24 verschiedenen Brauereien besteht. Es wird mir eine Freude sein, ein-zwei-drei mit Dir zu teilen - in N?! In M?! Gruß 🙂
@Lukasz: I applied, but as PartPrimerer I am only allowed into the Entree so far. Full membetship pending. 🙂
Welcome Guy
19 December, 09:52
Denis DogadovYes, I will be interested in what your red color will turn out to be. I recently painted small parts red, but there was a noticeable difference in color, depending on the color of the soil. Perhaps your LP-7 is better.
19 December, 10:09
Michael KohlI tested a couple of base coat variations for LP-7. A nice combination in my eyes is achieved when using Mr. Hobbycolor H413 yellow as base for the darker areas and pink (Tamiya X-17) for the lighter ones. But that would have meant to redo the whole base paint. So I stuck to my combination and mourned the loss of contrast.
21 December, 23:27
Łukasz GlińskiAdd some white today and it will be perfect Xmas gift just in time 😋
1 24 December, 09:43
Jakub BiganovskyReally great job. I appreciate your approach.
I didn`t test different base color. I used GS Aquarius H23 at first piece at black surfacer, and it wasn`t fine. I will use gloss yellow at 2nd piece.
How did you do such perfect wing bottom side. It looks really nice. I had relatively big gap there and some residual step although I precisely brushed big material layer out from both wing half. Maybe, the used glue did a step at the end.
I thing, that this, wings bottom, is weakest part of this model although, as you ar writing, engine nacceles also need some attention.
26 December, 13:04
Evan B...added a new photoalbum.
1 26 December, 18:22
Andrea Tomassiniadded a new photoalbum.
27 images
Honda NSR 250 Luca Cadalora
1:12
Project: Honda NSR 250 Luca Cadalora
1 26 December, 18:44
Attila Pappadded a new photoalbum.
14 25 December, 09:53
René "Lord Bilbo" BartholemyNot just a simple croissant, but a "café croissant" in a French bistro! Kudos!
25 December, 12:33
Stephen Lucyadded a new photoalbum.
13 15 November, 06:00
Michael SchubertVery nice! The shading and weathering, especially on the interior and canopy are awesome!!
1 17 November, 07:19
Alexander Grivonevadded a new photoalbum.
56 images
Dry fitting not required! - Porsche 992 GT3 RS build report
1:24
Finished shocks, the spring was brush painted with Tamiya X-7. To prevent the paint from drying too fast and achieve a s...
Project: Porsche 992 GT3 RS - Pure White
35 5 December, 08:10
yngvenettI'm definitely following this! The idea of using drilling holes in small parts and inserting the needles is brilliant. Wish I saw this 2 weeks ago 😳
6 December, 09:27
Alexander GrivonevWelcome guys, yes holding spoilers is sometimes a real pain in the a**, I've learned this the hard way
6 December, 11:40
Mark WWeirdly the X series acrylic paint is compatible with Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner, and it then acts a lot like lacquer. I have switched to buying lacquers only but still have some X series acrylics that I will ONLY put through an airbrush once thinned with their lacquer thinner.
1 17 December, 17:49
Martin OostromI understand that the LP's are basically the rattle can lacquers in a jar. For 5 times the price.
17 December, 21:01
Emanuele MatteucciTop idea to use the official Porsche config on the website! Tank you i'll configure one to better see all the details for the model. Double fun!
18 December, 12:56
Alexander GrivonevI can also recommend walkaround videos like these
Youtube Video
Youtube Video
great source for all kinds of detail inside, outside and from below
1 18 December, 14:38
Mark W@Alexander I'm still new to polishing paint, especially metallics, but my 1st gen Civic build was sprayed with X-34 thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. Main reason I've switched to this is using acrylic thinner constantly clogged my AB tip with the weather here.
Honda Civic GL (SB-1) | Album by Marktastrophe (1:24)
@Martin it's wild how prices change per locale, a jar of LP is a little less than half the price of a rattle can here and covers 3-5 times as much sprayed through an airbrush. (The low end of coverage is yellows and reds, of course.)
18 December, 15:49
bughunterI really like your careful work and painting 👍
@Martin Tamiya follow simply the trend to lacquer paints, after Mr. Paint and and other started this trend. Ok, there is a smell but I really like the fast drying times and they are much more forgiving for airbrushing. When the Mr.Paint colors were new and people asked about them, my answer was always "It's like Alclad in color" 😉
19 December, 15:06
Ben MThe use of pins is a great idea. I've used this technique when I planned to pin the parts later, like on a resin kit, but hadn't considered it in other contexts before.
19 December, 15:17
Alexander GrivonevLacquer or organic solvent paints are superior almost in every way to waterbased colors, some people might even prefer the smell 😄 I am just bewildered there is a trend towards something clearly not "environmentally friendly" in our supposedly eco friendly, green and polar bear loving world. Not that I am complaining...
19 December, 17:08
Martin OostromI decant the Tamiya rattle cans and get +/- 75ml out of them. For approximately €8. The 10ml LP's are €5 each. If the paint indeed is the same , that's a huge difference.
And I mostly airbrush with lacquers. Much more forgiving in my hands than acrylics. I donated most of my acrylics to Spanjaard. The only ones I kept are for detail brush painting.
19 December, 21:00
Alexander Grivonev5€ for 10ml LP?? I sourced them for 2,69 a jar. I have to admit, I have never used decanted paint. Tried decanting once but was repelled by the messiness and did not end up using the paint. I think I still would prefer getting the jars. And if you consider you add up to 2/3 of thinner to the jar to make it airbrush ready the price difference isn't that great anymore...
19 December, 21:16
bughunter@Martin To avoid to confuse people: the new lacquers are still acrylics! They are in solvent based thinner, in opposite to the water based acrylics. See for example a MrPaint label: "Acrylic lacquer based paint".
For completeness, enamels are another (oil based) paint class.
Sorry Alexander for hijacking your thread!
19 December, 21:42
Mark W@Martin that could be the difference, I have never decanted a rattle can either. A 10ml jar is less than €5 here where a rattle can is around €12.50. I also average a 1:1 paint to thinner ratio so the thinner goes quite far.
(Currency conversions courtesy of Google)
20 December, 02:57
Alexander Grivonev@bughunter: I did not want to open the pandora's box either because it is an insanely broad topic but hey who does not like a healthy discussion! I get the feeling the word "acrylic" has become somewhat of a marketing term because it sounds cool and modern. So the consumer will think, "hey I have heard this before, this must be good".
It is basically the umbrella term for the "sticky stuff" in your paint. Paint consists in very broad terms from 3 parts: 1."colored stuff", the pigment 2."sticky stuff", the binder which binds the pigments 3. "runny stuff", the solvent which makes the paint more liquidy for easier application.
The "sticky stuff" is the aforementioned acryl, again a broad term for a myriad of different compounds. There are other categories of sticky stuff: oils, resins like polyurethane and many many more. In the earlier days the painters used compounds found in nature like shellac, tree resin or even eggs. When you paint an object, the solvent evaporates and the sticky stuff with the bound pigments inside remains on the object becoming hard and dry leaving you with an object in your desired color.
Depending on the chemical properties of the "sticky stuff" it can be soluble by different solvents like organic solvents or waterbased ones. Again in very broad terms the organic solvents are the "smelly" ones. But there are also overlappings like alcohol based paints which also can be diluted with water (Tamiya X and XF and alike)
3 20 December, 08:50
Alexander GrivonevIt is an insanely broad topic, I would say just stick to what you are most comfortable with and enjoy the process!
20 December, 08:51
Martin OostromOr learn something new by following Mr Shiny 😉
And I thin my decanted cans with 20-30 Mr SLT as well. To each his own, like Alexander says.
1 20 December, 11:12
Alexander GrivonevI am making progress guys, just the uploading is lagging behind. More pictures in the following days 👍
2 26 December, 20:16
Mike BirdLooking forward to the pictures! Santa was good to me and I'm now the proud owner of this kit!
26 December, 22:22
BozzerJust to throw my English spanner in the works, if you guys can get hold of some Winsor and Newton Galleria retarder, you should find that works too? Obviously testing, before you commit to the model, but it's an artists go-to, and you just need a tiny drop. Lasts for years, and for the money, it'll probably outlive each of us? Give it a Google and see if it's available in your area?
26 December, 23:20
Marco Pretoadded a new photoalbum.
7 images
Bayraktar TB2 (completed)
1:48
Project: Ukrainian Air Force Bayraktar TB2
1 26 December, 22:36
coporadoadded a new photoalbum.
68 28 March, 16:26
coporadoBuild completed so far. Still waiting for the metal barrel. Quite challenging to attach the Zimmerit- PE parts. Was annoying when it comes to round shapes on the turret front armor. Treating those metal parts with some heat, made them much more handy to shape. First time using Friul tracks, very time consuming, but the best track result I´ve seen so far 🙂
1 April, 13:59
coporadoLower part of the tank was painted and received weathering. Tracks were mounted and connected. Rear fenders were the installed. Next is masking lower section and painting the upper parts.
2 June, 10:18
Christoph KunzNice job. I'm taking a seat.
Is it going to be some "Magdeburg-stuff" again?
2 June, 11:03
coporadoThe tank received several rounds of paint. Starting with red brown primer, followed by dark yellow as base color and finally the camo pattern. Next is detail painting, and weathering.
9 June, 15:30
coporadoInitial weathering steps were conducted; chipping the Zimmerit and the metal surfaces.
16 June, 09:20
coporadoThanks, Nick!
The exhaust was painted in a medium grey first. The parts having armor plates underneath were left in the original painting, as these area is less affected by heat and corrosion. Then a warm white followed by a reddish brown was applied using the sponge technique. Next was rust tones painted and blended with enamels. Colors of the original camo scheme where then applied with a sponge in the areas with less corrosion, to turn out the different stages of heat impact. Finally the upper parts received a slightly black shade to simulate the exhaust fume grime.
23 June, 08:21
coporadoKick off for the base. Styrofoam is the desired material for house, road and pavement. As the road and pavement is covered with lots of dirt and debris, I added cobblestone only randomly. For the road thin sheets of styrofoam were shaped using a 3D printed rolling pin. In order to create more texture the stones were carved with a pencil. For the pavement an old brush was used to shape the small stones. Everything was painted in several greyish, brownish, sandy tones with acrylics.
The shape of house was cut with the Proxxon hot wire. To make the facade more interesting I added some "decoration" around the upper windows. A border seperates the upper and lower floor. Next is closing the gaps between the decoration elements at the upper windows and cover the lower floor with wood.
28 July, 07:18
coporadoSlowly taking shape. Lower floor fassade updated with some wooden panels. Dirt and debris was added to the road and pavement and painted with the airbrush. I used the same colors I used for weathering the tank tracks. Next is windows and door installation and of course detailing the interior.
18 August, 12:32
coporadoLower and upper floor and walls were detailed using Balsa wood and wallpaper. Added windows using Balsa and lasercut as well as some transparent plastic for the glas parts. Also the infantry miniatures arrived meanwhile.
31 August, 13:17
coporadoScratch built some interior from balsa wood and plastic residues. The attic floor was installed. Next is finally building the lower floor entrance and preparing the roof.
9 September, 12:26
coporadoAs an important detail, I added the sign with the shop name where the Tiger was abandoned in Villers Bocage in 1944. Also the advertising was printed in a suitable font and prepared for installation.
13 October, 15:09
coporadoSlowly getting there. The roof was installed, using Juweela roof tiles. Final details added and glued to the interior. Next is painting the two fellows passing by.
30 October, 10:50
coporadoFirst uniform almost completed, some more blending is needed on that trousers. My very first time painting camouflage uniforms, challenging but fun once in the flow 🙂
22 November, 14:51
Spanjaardyou need t stop using that cruel device to miniaturize humans for your dios..... 😉
1 22 December, 12:53
Jan PetersBeautiful paintwork on those figures, model and base are excellent too.
This is going to be a great diorama.
22 December, 13:28
coporadoThank you all for your kind comments!
@Spanjaard: Once you pulled the trigger on that device once, you cannot stop doing it ever and ever again 😄
Final details have been attached to the house.
Wishing you all a merry merry Christmas and happy new year and of course happy modelling!
22 December, 16:53
CaptGPFadded a new photoalbum.
59 images
Another Day at Farnborough - Revell Eurofighter 1/48 - Crashed and Burned
1:48
This kit was designed to be posed for flying - as the landing gear struts interfere with the panels the cover it in flig...
Project: Eurofighter Typhoon „Black Jack“
28 1 October, 22:12
Kesa TihoThat looks really well made, youve really out done yourself capt. Having built my fair share of revell im really surprised that the cockpit has such a good level of detail
2 October, 04:24
CaptGPFThanks Gorby! I haven't worked with PE very much and am still debating on whether or not I should continue using CA, or canopy glue
15 October, 11:59
Gary VictoryNice work CaptGBF....Having build this kit myself... watch out on the wing fit. You need to sand in inner surfaces before fitting, otherwise you we have a noticeable step around the underside forward flap area.
Keep up the good work.
15 October, 12:19
NeilI've just purchased this kit too, saw it display in my hometown and also at IAT. Such a striking scheme! Will follow your build with much interest CaptGPF, it's looking like great (hard) work so far. And of course it should be armed! 😉
15 October, 15:28
★ Starfish ★Good luck with that! Maybe you can find one or two things to watch out for in my video about this kit: Youtube Video
15 October, 21:55
CaptGPFOh God, it's been too long since I checked in!
Gary - thank you for the heads up, I ran afoul of that wing fit too - but I had to cheat and sand down the area I couldn't quite get right.
Gorby - I followed your lead and used gel, much more flexible and allows me to reposition it.
Neil - ROFL, I'm with you, all aircraft needs to be armed to the teeth, brimming with weapons!
And lastly.. Starfish, thank you for sharing your video, but my Bothan spies already clued me into it, and I recall you noting that this may by your last Revell kit - AND I AGREE WITH YOU!!!
30 November, 01:53
CaptGPFOK, so back from some holiday break, so here's the latest updates.
Nei - there are some notes for your build 😀
30 November, 01:54
Desert MarlinLooks great so far! That was a really rugged fit for the fuselage! You really beat it into shape!!!
30 November, 04:17
★ Starfish ★Good progress and I'm a bit relieved that I'm not the only one who struggled with this kit. Enjoy applying the decals... 😉
30 November, 06:15
CaptGPF2Marlin - ROFL! This is why I like PLASTIC kits! Given enough time, effort, pressure and swearing - you can beat it into submission! Somewhat…
2Starfish - having seen your struggles with the decals, I am dreading that part. I have a day or two left till the X-22 gloss coat sets, so I might as well enjoy those cuss-free days while I can!
1 December, 00:28
CaptGPFI applied the decals. And unfortunately, Starfish was right on the money - it's pathetic. I can now understand why he swore off of Revell!
11 December, 15:31
★ Starfish ★I also don't understand how something like these not-fitting decals could happen. Anyways, looks like you've almost made it!
1 11 December, 17:40
CaptGPF@ Starfish, I just noticed last night that the decals were rev-ed to v01.01! So I guess it could have been worse?
23 December, 21:14
CaptGPFAlright, all done. The hazy front canopy was a disappointment for me, which ruined an otherwise okay build. The kit is really a mixed bag. Arvel has demonstrated that it has the ability to produce quality kits, but this kid has so much detractions to it, it is very difficult for me to recommend it to anyone, but the most seasoned model kit builder, or those who simply wish to suffer needlessly on such a kit. The details are wonderful, but the overall execution is just plain terrible: with the decals being the absolute worst offender for this kit. Revell may have labeled this a level for difficulty kit, but that is largely due to questionable engineering on the wings, air intakes, and landing gears. But the greatest sin of all was the atrocious decals that neither fit, or labeled correctly, or were scattered throughout the sheet, making a visit to the dentist for a root canal with no anesthetics a more pleasant experience than building this kit.
26 December, 20:06
Desert MarlinTell me about it! My Ju87-G2 Stuka has been a train wreck for markings!
26 December, 20:54
J35JGreat work with the kit! Sometimes you just have to push through the build. 👍🏻👏🏼
26 December, 21:04
AlexanderGreat job with the Typhoon (and overcoming all the struggles Revell put in place..)! 👍
26 December, 21:58
★ Starfish ★Looks great with all that armament. Congratulations on finishing this challenging kit!
26 December, 22:42
Johan Bergqvistadded a new photoalbum.
10 images
Lockheed F-35 Lightning II
1:48
Eduard 3D printed cockpit and also 3D printed decals.
Project: Lockheed F-35 Lightning II
1+23 December, 14:30
Curtis Cadenadded a new photoalbum.
25 4 December, 19:53
Curtis CadenThank you Rui S and Martin Oostrom. The "woody" part is painted with Tamiya TS-46 Light Sand and then each panel is decaled.
6 December, 12:08
Curtis CadenThank you Mr D. The 1931 Ford Model A is significant because it marked the final year of production for the Model A, a hugely popular car that replaced the Model T and was one of the most widely sold vehicles in the late 1920s and early 1930s, offering improved features like a three-speed transmission, four-wheel brakes, and hydraulic shock absorbers compared to its predecessor, while also being considered a stylish and accessible option for the time; the 1931 model year featured slight design updates and was the last before Ford introduced the Model B with a new engine design in 1932.
24 December, 14:41
Desert Marlinadded a new photoalbum.
43 23 November, 00:44
The BlytonianNice. Enjoying the build?
Someday, fingers crossed. On my opportunity buy watchlist.
1 23 November, 00:53
Desert MarlinYes! It's a great kit. I got one of the special edition with the white metal German Shepherd and the Ernst Rüdel figure. The combinations of parts between Jg 1 and Jg 2 are something to be mindful of however. There are several decals for the car parts so I'm still sorting through that. Time and care must be taken on the cockpit and the figures as there is a lot of posing and seating to be performed before everything is painted. And I am coming back to this one after having started it almost 15 years ago...
23 November, 04:58
Desert MarlinThanks! Picture 5 is wet decal on gloss coated panel. Then two days of working the decal with Mr. Decal Setter and Solvaset. Then gloss coated panel and decal. Then Alclad semi-matte finish. Also used some Tamiya panel line accent between instrument bezels. Then each instrument is given a glass lens using Micro Krystal Klear. Not perfect, but in a dark cockpit it seems okay. The real color and detail will come from the pilot and gunner/radio operator figures…
29 November, 04:32
Rui SI'm not an expert or a spoiler, but I think the 'Kanonenvogel' apeared long after that 🤔
The G1, Specialized tank destroyer evolved in 1942-43.
Basically a conversion of the Ju 87D-3 with attachment points to carry two 37 mm Flak 18 (BK 3,7) cannon in streamlined fairings outboard of the main undercarriage legs. (Cannon attachment points could be exchanged for bomb racks.) Standard defensive armament; often had improved ground vision panel in the cockpit floor.
1 2 December, 13:53
Desert MarlinYou are probably right. I am just building the version I was provided by Hasegawa, which over the years, have not always been accurate! In any event, I find the story (800 takes destroyed) and the era, Kursk 1941/42 to be interesting for sure. This particular Jg 2 scheme smacks of a summer deployment without the eventual knowledge that the impending winter would bring!
2 December, 22:31
Rui SBattle of Kursk. Summer of 1943, from 5 July 😄
The Gunner looks great. Well done 👍
1 2 December, 22:53
Desert MarlinTrue about Kursk. I had worked from the Barbarossa reference which was probably too early for the Ju-87G for sure. Thanks for the compliment! The Hasegawa figures are definitely not 3D printed! Lots of carving to get them in better shape...
3 December, 15:20
Mr DAlways stellar work... Nice to see WW2 subject from you now....... good luck with the build 👍👍
1 8 December, 20:21
Desert MarlinThanks Mr. D. The decals for the inside of the canopies seems to be a little too much work when I can mask the interior and paint the correct color...
1 8 December, 23:22
Desert MarlinSo, the Pilot's hood is really not good. I suppose the middle hood could be too short, but the Pilot's hood is also too tall. About 1 mm too tall. So, if I shave down the bottom of the pilot's hood, I wonder if it will better fill the gap between the back of the Pilot's hood and the middle hood? It seems the gunner's hood fits pretty good.
1 9 December, 03:29
Desert MarlinWell, the canopies have taken days longer than I anticipated. I am almost done with the last (gunner's) canopy. Clearly from the complexity of the gunner's canopy, he had a pretty unenviable job. It looks like the limit bar inside the gunner's canopy, which limits the swing of the guns to prevent damage to the airframe, also limits the visibility of the gunner too!
1 12 December, 16:08
Mr DThe canopy is clear ...you should have a good view of pilot , nice job on crew👍
What have you used to mask the front canopy? or is it just protection?
Coming along nicely 👌👍
1 12 December, 19:44
Desert MarlinMasking has been a combination of 3M Scotch Transparent tape and Tamiya Masking Tape. A little bit of Mr. Masking Sol R and Micro Mask. Just really trying to keep the interior of the canopies very clear for now. The Gunner's Hood is really a ton of work. The interior frame is done except for a little cleanup after the exterior is painted...
12 December, 20:28
Mr DBe worth it in the end ... Looking good, thanks for scotch tape tip .
Good luck with everything 👍👍
2 12 December, 23:30
Erik LeijdensExcellent work so far! The figures are very well done, the clear parts are really clear!
2 15 December, 10:01
Desert MarlinI think I'll let the paint dry for a while and work on the Pak 18 cannons…
16 December, 02:44
bughunterWise decision to let the paint dry. Patience at the right moments saves reworking later 😉
Looks good, do you used enamels?
1 16 December, 18:37
Desert MarlinI have saved my Model Master RLM74, 75, and 76 for just this time! I used Mr.Color Yellow for the stripe and bottom of the wing tips! The Testirs thinner is no good for these paints since it was sold to a different manufacturer and is now unable to properly thin the MM paints. Fortunately, the Squadron enamel thinner seems to be an excellent substitute! Base was Mr. Surfacer 1500 black and grey.
1 16 December, 18:43
Mr DThat Tamiya Saw looks like a bit of kit worth getting 🤔.
The Dog will be a nice touch .... Natzi's liked an angry dog 🐕.
Was Ju-87 used for a defensive role??
Enjoy following your builds 👍👍
1 16 December, 19:02
Desert MarlinThanks all for the comments! Mr. D, the Kannonenvögel was used as a Tank Buster on the Eastern Front.
16 December, 19:14
JohnLooking great! I enjoyed this build, but I cheated and used the montex canopy mask set. Totally worth it!!!
2 17 December, 15:26
bughunterThis German shepherd reminds me of my father's dog - yes, great paint job.
1 17 December, 17:30
Desert MarlinThanks guys! If anyone knows the story of what the dog's name is, I would really appreciate knowing that! Cheers!
17 December, 19:02
Desert MarlinUgh... I think I bought this kit in 2007. That means the decals are... 17 years old. Very brittle to say the least. I am using Mr. MarkSofter which is excellent in this case, but the spiral decal for the spinner is really trouble! We'll see what I can do with it...
19 December, 06:10
bughunterI hope the decals are still on the sheet! In this case you can protect them with this product. It creates a very thin "rubber" film on top so they do not fall into parts.
Liquid Decal Film (Microscale MI-12, No)
If you do not have it, Gunze Mr. Metal Primer can also be used, but I would use an airbrush to avoid that the brush tip dissolve decal parts. Background: I had a decal paper for self printing decals and in the manual this Gunze clear coat was recommended to protect the print before applying the decal to the model.
4 19 December, 08:03
JohnYou might be better off painting the spiral, but the trick is matching the off-white color Hasegawa insisted on printing their white color decals in back then.
1 19 December, 13:30
Desert MarlinThanks Frank and John! I have the film but did not use it. I have used the film in the past and it is a great option! I was trying to slowly work the spiral on and soften the film as I went. Still broke in a few places, but I think I can correct it a bit. John, as for painting it on, I should have got that route but I had constructed that part of the kit so many years ago. I would have had to break it down and start over. I actually tried to undo some of the construction so I could get the spinner and oil slinger off the prop but would have been too much damage. So, between touch-up and weathering I think I can overcome the damage. I agree, their off-white is a bit odd, but I think the Vallejo white, ivory and grey can make the difference! Thanks for the encouragement!
1 19 December, 15:43
JohnAh, having to "undo" construction would certainly complicate matters. I ended up painting mine for the exact same reason, cracked decals. Tamiya white with just a touch of XF-57 buff and XF-59 desert yellow was a good match for the decal color but the vallejo mix sounds workable too. I think it's asking a lot of decals, especially old Hasegawa ones (which, let's face it, aren't that great when new) to conform to that spinner. Too bad Hasegawa didn't see fit to include masks for that, but Eduard-level kit goodies were still some years in the future! Nice job on the Shepherd, by the way!
1 19 December, 16:25
Desert MarlinJohn, you are absolutely correct on all points! Thanks for commiserating!
19 December, 18:44
Desert MarlinI may. try the Tamiya mix and see how that does! I will probably try to beat down the decal with some Solvaset.
1 19 December, 18:45
Mr DThat's a difficult decal to do at the best of times 🤔,
At least you have a good pattern to paint in, lve had this happen on new HB and Tamiya decals.
You will have it tidied up soon.
Build is looking good 👍👍
1 19 December, 21:04
Desert MarlinWeathering has begun. Thanks Jennifer. I failed to be too patient and switched to the Vallejo paints for the spinner...
21 December, 16:04
Desert MarlinSadly, the two cross decals on the lower surface of the wing just won't cooperate. So I have decided to remove them and paint them on...
1 23 December, 22:18
Jennifer FranklinYour paint job looks better than the decals probably would have.
1 23 December, 23:03
Desert MarlinYou were looking at the 17 year old decals that wouldn't sit down…. 😃👍
1 26 December, 19:12
Mr DMore work than planned with the biodegradable decals 🙄 ...it's the nature of the hobby it can sometimes be 1 step forward 2 back, I've had a drill bit break off yesterday 🫣😠 stuck in the model!!
But your pulling it back now and looking good 👍👍
1 26 December, 21:19
Desert MarlinYou know the feeling well Mr. D!!! It has been exactly that way on this one. I hope to unmask the canopy this afternoon!
26 December, 22:01
Guidoadded a new photoalbum.
16 images
Lockheed F-104G Starfighter "Ferrari"
1:72
Quinta Studio decals applied.
Will have te touch up the grey areas a bit.
5+ 29 8 December, 18:01
Robert PodkońskiTaking a seat! It is the most appropriate paint scheme for this plane, imho 😉
1 8 December, 18:39
GuidoReskit engine nozzle fits now nicely after some trimming of the fuselage halves.
😊
10 December, 23:17
Markus Antoniustake care of those main gear struts- they tend to tilt the plane in one direction once installed
2 11 December, 08:21
Patrick HagelsteinLooking very good Guido! If I recall correctly, the Hasegawa afterburner can is narrower than the Reskit one. Did you need to shave off those supports to make it fit?
1 11 December, 10:20
GuidoThanks Patrick. I took a picture of it to explain what my intentions are. 😉
Hope that helps.
13 December, 15:53
GuidoThanks Markus, they seem indeed a bit fiddly…
Also, the instructions seem to suggest that they need to be installed during in subassembly of the complete rear fuselage.
I'm not quite there yet, but I think they can be mounted towards the end. I'm also thinking of glueing the front and rear fuselage halfs together on each side and close the whole thing, avoiding any misalignments between front and rear subassembly's that are suggested in the instructions.
Will need to do a lot of dry-fitting to check feasibility however, before committing to that approach. We'll see. 🙏🏻🙋🏼♂️
13 December, 16:12
Patrick HagelsteinThanks Guido! Now I see the indentations on the Reskit part. Those are meant for the air brake wells on both sides. That surely needs some trimming but by the looks of it, you got that covered! 👍
1 15 December, 13:49
GuidoGood observation Patrick!
I had wondered why those indentations were there... But, in 1/72 there are no brakes in the kit and so no protusions for these on the inside of the fuselage halves. It means that the only contact point the Reskit exhaust has, is at the edge of the fuselage halves... which is probably not sufficient for a good "montage".
I took a quick look at the 1/48 instructions of the Hasegawa kit, and indeed there, you have the brakes and the areas on the inside of the fuselage - assuming here that Reskit designed the exhaust with the larger scales in mind, and simply resized that design for 1/72.
So, I think that the approach I'm taking, with recuperating the part kit and re-use it as the inside mounting point for the exhaust will be the good one. I'm even thinking of drilling a hole in the middle of the exhaust back-end to make sure that they align correctly by means of a small rod.
17 December, 20:25
Mr DNice Detailing work 👌👍 the exhaust is much better, alot more accurate.
Dry fit, dry fit ...... always pays 👍
1 17 December, 21:10
Spanjaardreally curious about the livery, it will certainly be an eye catcher. i am in 🙂
1 17 December, 21:19
leandro Carabettaadded a new photoalbum.
11 17 August 2022, 19:13
Neulingadded a new photoalbum.
64 6 December, 06:15
CaptGPFDamn Neuling! Your work never ceases to amaze me! So many little details to absorb - another masterpiece!
6 December, 06:31
gorbyAnother amazing diorama! In fact it would be next to impossible to make it any more realistic. Top work Neuling!
6 December, 10:50
Michael KohlHe did it again. Everything just spot on. Very very fine.
Are those the kits wheels?
6 December, 22:02
NeulingHello mates, thanks a lot for the positive feedback! I´m glad you like my stuff. - Michael, the wheels are out of the box. The wrecker´s tires were rubber tires and I cut them on the underside with a sharp knife to attach them well to the base. Painting the uniforms I tried your technique, thank you! - Bob, 👍. - Both kits were good. There was however a problem with the wrecker´s instruction manual. It did not contain any description or picture of the wires and cables, which are very important at this model. Moreover I noticed the following mistakes: Chapter 1: it´s P 19 instead of T 19. Chapter 21: PE 9 instead of PE 12. Chapter 33: R9 mixed up with R4. Chapter 37: PE C 13 instead of PE C 11. Chapter 40: P 40 instead of P 30.
1 8 December, 17:10
Alexander GrivonevAnother amazing diorama, so good, so lifelike! Great photography as usual 👍
1 12 December, 10:07
MS KNot only is the quality of your work amazing, but your speed of work is also amazing. 👏👏
12 December, 14:43
NeulingThanks a lot, Alexander, Thomas and MS K! Much appreciated! - MS K, I am rather a slowhand. Not all of my albums show new dioramas. Some of them are up to 30 years old (not this one, it´s my latest build).
14 December, 09:53
J35JExcellent work! 👍🏻
Always inspiring to view all the detailed work you put in to your builds and dios.
2 14 December, 11:56
Alec KOutstanding!! And, your photography and lighting never ceases to amaze me 👍
1 14 December, 13:55
NeulingMany thanks, J35J, Alec K and Jean! - Jean, I tried to copy the tankograd photo as exactly as (to me) possible.
1 17 December, 09:20
Jennifer FranklinI was going to ask where you got the idea for this one, and then I saw the Tankograd article. It makes for an interesting scene, which you have rendered perfectly. Where did you get your figures from?
22 December, 03:45
NeulingDominik, Dietmar, Desert Marlin and Jennifer, thanks a lot for the positive feedback! Makes me glad. - Jennifer, the figures are composed of leftovers from other works. Over the years I have collected an array of arms, heads, legs, feet and hands. 🙂 - Merry Christmas to all mates and fellow modellers!
3 24 December, 13:00
Jean-Michel TilquinHi Neuling, I somehow missed this one. Another superb piece of history, congrats (and a bit late happy Xmas)!
26 December, 18:56
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