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Master Box 
Ray Whitewants this item
Tiger I initial and very early detail set, for 2 vehicles
Elefant Corporation 1:35
E35167 2021 New tool 25 August, 15:59
Pablo Paeswants this item
Austratt fort coastal artillery site triple 28cm turret Caesar
Modelcollect 1:72
UA72344 25 August, 15:56
Markoadded a new photoalbum.
26 images
Grumman Bearcat F8f „Smirnoff' Darryl Greenamyers Racer
1:72
Project: Bearcat F8f Racer (1965-67)
Scratchbuilt
11 24 June, 21:08
Robert PodkońskiAwesome job, Marko! Chapeau bas! I have not grown confident enough yet to tackle any of HPM kits...
25 August, 13:13
Markogorby, robert and curatorm I'm very happy that you like my model, I'm also very happy with the result myself,
gorby: your scratch-built unique pieces always impress me and I'm excited about your current project.
Robert: in your experience I say; go ahead and you will be rewarded with a beautiful result.
25 August, 15:54
Thomas MayerNo instructions provided. Two pieces of vac for the two part canopy, Interior of the front fuselage looks nice, but no yoke nor seats provided. Parts show more or less print lines, Rather bad shown on the tail and rudder. I am doing some tests how to get rid of those,,,
25 August, 14:38
Ben MI've had ok luck getting rid of or at least reducing print lines by brushing on water-diluted perfect plastic putty, which then tends to settle in the grooves and then sanding.
25 August, 15:21
Thomas MayerBen, thanks for this great hint! Today, I applied some grey Surfacer using a fine brush. I tried to avoid the fine rivet holes,,, 🤓
25 August, 15:53
TreehuggerQ: Is there any convenient way of scratchbuilding railings along the side of the ship, for 1:350 ships?
I had this idea, but don't have the tools for it. Basically using metal rods, then clamping hard on 3-4 places to flatten spots on the rod, then drill holes in those flat spots, then pull a wire through the holes later. But chances are I think the whole rod will bend every which way when clamping hard on some spots to flatten the rod in places. I suppose working with styrene rods might be simpler, but then, when drilling holes in the flat parts, the styrene will likely snap or melt if ever coming in contact with liquid glue.
One other idea I had, was to maybe try scrape the photo etch railings, to try round the otherwise "square looking" horizontal parts, making them look thinner than the "rods" standing upright, making them look more like maybe some wire than welded metal pieces.
I have seen Tamiya having some aftermarket product for the rods, with metal wire, but only for the Japanese Yamato ship, which doesn't look like most other ships I would think.
I had this idea, but don't have the tools for it. Basically using metal rods, then clamping hard on 3-4 places to flatten spots on the rod, then drill holes in those flat spots, then pull a wire through the holes later. But chances are I think the whole rod will bend every which way when clamping hard on some spots to flatten the rod in places. I suppose working with styrene rods might be simpler, but then, when drilling holes in the flat parts, the styrene will likely snap or melt if ever coming in contact with liquid glue.
One other idea I had, was to maybe try scrape the photo etch railings, to try round the otherwise "square looking" horizontal parts, making them look thinner than the "rods" standing upright, making them look more like maybe some wire than welded metal pieces.
I have seen Tamiya having some aftermarket product for the rods, with metal wire, but only for the Japanese Yamato ship, which doesn't look like most other ships I would think.
24 August, 09:09
Martin OostromWow. The vertical rods are about 3-5cm diameter in real life. That equates to 1-1,5mm in scale. The ropes are 1cm in real life? So you'd need 0.03 wire? The maths is from the top of my head, so I could be wrong of course.
I wish you the best of luck in pulling that off. And I call shotgun on the build!
24 August, 09:19
TreehuggerI have some 0.1 mm metal wire. 🙂
Hmmm, maybe I could try combine that with some styrene rods, but square ones.
Hmm, 0,2 mm styrene rod might work.
Not having a precision drill mounted vertically with a wheel/lever will not be fun though.
Admittedly trying to straighten out a metal wire that's been on a roll, will be a pain, or at least have to be pulled out tight adding press/tension in the parts.
24 August, 13:49
TreehuggerOh, this was easy. Though, styrene rods are flimsy if accidentally knocking your hand into them, if finishing a model with styrene rods as railings.
The 0.2 mm drill bit is VERY weak, the 0.3 mm drill bit is much sturdier(!) There are no 0.1 mm drill bit in this UStar (UA-260 drill bit set 0.2 to 1.5 mm).
Hm.. I think a better idea, is to just use thin thread, maybe easier to handle and it will relax more nicely instead of potentially causing a stiff bend along the side of the ship if the vertical rods are a little unsymmetrical along the hull, if using the stiff brass wire even if just 0.1 mm thick.
[img1]
The wonky brass wire is the very start of the brass wire on the roller, presumably the rest of the wire is all smooth.
25 August, 12:01
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