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added a new photoalbum.
14 5 July, 20:08
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Can't you strip the sprues as a whole of the paint? Dip them in a bath of paint stripper? Might be a whole lot easier than sanding each piece
9 July, 06:15
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Most of the pieces are under carriage, so they're not that visible......but I stay awake at night knowing there are seams and that they must be eliminated! I think I botched the body paint job and I hadn't noticed on its original project. I just went over the lint - think HAIR - with 600 to 2000 and that took care of it. Mostly, I just thought it was funny that whomever I bought this kit from had gone to that much trouble to paint pieces ON the sprues with a brush, only to be done over with a rattlecan OFF the sprues.
9 July, 06:23
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I feel your pain. I'm currently sanding tanks on a truck. Tanks that will never be seen, yet I've spent a few hours already on them.
9 July, 06:25
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The TS4 German Grey isn't nearly dark enough for the dash. Or, the actual color of the dash should be black, but the instructions called out for German Grey......I dunno, Tamiya.
12 August, 06:51
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Sometimes, it's easier to use a thin Sharpie, for knobs and buttons. It dries fast, so if you make a mistake, you can touch up, more or less, straight away. I also use a Sharpie for window rubbers, etc
14 August, 00:07
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lots of work, but it is looking nice now.
i got this one accidentally in my stash for a very, very long time.....
27 August, 16:16
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Damn thing fought me at the end! I couldn't get the wheels to go into those wonderful gaskets and then the side mirrors refused to fit. I don't recall having had those issues before. Only TOO happy to finish. P.S. no harnesses, sorry. I can't see well enough to use PE buckles and the decals just look too fake, so......them Panizzis were brave!
29 August, 01:05
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owns this item
![1:25 Kenworth W900 - Interior (Czech Truck Model CTM 24102) CTM 24102](/products/img/8/4/1/1008841-16029-17-t180.jpg)
Kenworth W900 - Interior Conversion Kit for Revell 7497, 7509, 7538, 7523
Czech Truck Model 1:25
CTM 24102 29 August, 01:02
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owns this item
![1:72 Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden Type 21 & A6M5c ZERO Fighter Type 52 Hei '352nd Flying Group' (Hasegawa 01989) 01989](/products/img/2/6/8/187268-10189-t180.jpg)
Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden Type 21 & A6M5c ZERO Fighter Type 52 Hei '352nd Flying Group'
Hasegawa 1:72
01989 2012 New decals Multi-topic (2)28 August, 23:24
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completed this item
![1:72 Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden Type 21 & A6M5c ZERO Fighter Type 52 Hei '352nd Flying Group' (Hasegawa 01989) 01989](/products/img/2/6/8/187268-10189-t180.jpg)
Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden Type 21 & A6M5c ZERO Fighter Type 52 Hei '352nd Flying Group'
Hasegawa 1:72
01989 2012 New decals Multi-topic (2)28 August, 23:23
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added a new photoalbum.
11 images
1/72 Revell BAe Hawk T.1 Cockpit![View album, image #3 View album, image #3](/albums/img/1/2/1/1187121-18633-72-720.jpg)
1:72
I used a cardboard coat hanger to represent the wooden board they mostly use on the rear section were the cockpit has be...
Project: 1/72 Revell BAe Hawk T.1 Cockpit
1 23 May 2021, 14:19
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Is this at Warton at the wrong end of the chicken cannon? Feels familiar...
24 October 2021, 12:31
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I had a hunch I'd seen it before. Unusual topic 😄 I did a short stint in the Typhoon software in the 90s and remembered seeing something like this on the way to the canteen at Warton.
25 October 2021, 15:09
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Alright so since the most complex thing related to scale modeling ive done is almost accidentally used tamiya plastic cement as mouthwash you can probably tell im not good at scale modeling but i want my first moc to be good so im gonna buy primer, gloss, black wash etc but i dont know in what order to apply tamiya paint, black wash, gloss, primer and finally the decals. And im scared if i apply them in the wrong order im going to end up ruining 60-ish euros worth of supplies.
28 August, 09:30
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Depends what you're building but usually as follows: Primer, paint(s), gloss coat, decals, gloss coat (to seal decals), then weathering products and finally a matt coat to seal the lot.
28 August, 10:05
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First remark, Tamiya paint is meant for an airbrush. Some colors can also be applied with a brush, but they dry very fast. In that case you wouldn't need to prepare the model with a primer either. I use the primer mostly because the model has building materials with different colors. Only if painting is done and decals are applied over a gloss varnish (if paint wasn't glossy), and with a gloss seal over them, should you use any wash. I mostly use colored wash. Try to remove most of it and only leave it in the panel lines. At last use a dull coat.
28 August, 10:12
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I think we all come up with processes that work for us. For armor models I normally prime, do preshading, color coat with acrylic, weather with cheap artists oils and pencils/pastels and then a final spray of "dust" with acrylic. Example here: Disston Tractor Tank | Album by uhrwerk (1:35)
28 August, 11:50
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YouTube is your friend for modelling videos too. There are many channel devoted to plastic modelling. Some of the one's I watch regularly are
Nigel's Modelling Bench (does a beginners series)
Jeff Donahue Scale Modeling
The Model Shed
Yorkshireman Models
Nostalgic Plastic
There are loads of them.
28 August, 13:48
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As Steven says, Tamiya acrylic paint is intend o be used in airbrushes. If that is the paint you have, the best way to brush paint it is by adding a few drops of Tamiya Paint Retarder. I know that product isn't widely available so alternately, and brand of acrylic paint retarder should work. Again if that's not something you can get your hands on try adding a little bit of Tamiya Thinners (Isopropyl Alcohol is a cheaper alternative. As it's alcohol you might need an adult to buy it for you. Most importantly, don't drink it, it isn't that sort of alcohol).
I haven't tried it personally, there is a way to mix your own paint retarder – quoting form the internet:
most acrylic retarders are just glycerin, glycerin is cheap at the chemist/pharmacy. It has a syrupy consistency so put about 125ml it in a 500ml distilled water then add about 5 drops of washing-up liquid.
Unfortunately model paints aren't as straight forward as just painting from the jar.
28 August, 13:54
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I dont use tamiya acrylic i use just plain tamiya paint with no other labels on it
28 August, 13:57
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Plain Tamiya paint is acrylic. 😉
Somewhere on the jar it should say what it is. If it's 'X' or 'XF' then it's acrylic, if it's 'LP' then it's lacquer. I haven't used lacquer paint so I don't know how to use that.
Like I said, model paints aren't straightforward. 😄
28 August, 15:08
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if you not sure of how a paint will work or look like when you use it, you can use a plastic spoon to test the paint. Or if you have a model that has not been a success but it is beyond reparir, do not throw it away, remove the pain (Isopropyl alcohol can help a lot with that, and you can buy bottles of a litter or more) and use is as "paint pule". alternatively. you can use a simple piece of plastic (discarded/out of date student card, plastic packaging)....it is a good idea to test new methods and materials on something that you do not care, rather and in your latest model paid with hard earned money 😉
28 August, 19:04
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a model can certainly be painted with a simple brush, with no airbrush. but doing it correctly needs some skills. there are pleople that can paint a model with the brush and you will not see a difference with one painted with airbrush. i am certainly not one of them 😄 😄 in any case, the trick is to use very thin layers of diluted paint (same as if you use an airbrush)
28 August, 19:06
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As I said it's sometimes possible to brush it. Once I brush-painted an entire 1/72 PBY Catalina with a Tamiya aluminum pot. But if I would use that on my current model, it has details that would completely vanish because of the thickness of the paint. I would have to thin it almost as water not to clog up my perforated photo etch, it has holes of almost a hair thick. To get the paint to cover the shiny metal I would need multiple layers of it. But using it in my airbrush with an 1/2 part of thinner that can be done in a few stages with no risk of clogging. Here you see a primer of grey Tamiya XF IJN Gray and a finish of Lifecolor acrylic over that, and I can still add a matt varnish and not clog the holes. The models you chose should not have such problematic parts, but when you get experience you will notice if the paint on a model was as thin as it could be made. [img1]
28 August, 23:17
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