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S Madded a new photoalbum.
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Saab 35 Draken MikroMir-kit
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My original idea was to have the canopy be able to open and close, but the Micro Liquitape wasn't strong enough to keep ...
Project: Saab J35XS Draken "Special edition"
2+ 46 26 February, 21:28
RandoVery cool, I'm getting the Mikro Mir kit, interested to hear how it goes together
27 February, 00:22
Patrick HagelsteinTrue! Joining in as well to see how this builds up. Enjoy the build! 👍🏼
28 February, 00:28
S MWelcome, mates! I'm building also a Hasegawa kit alongside with this for comparison and for testing painting.
29 February, 06:24
Patrick HagelsteinŁukasz, I was thinking the same. That 'old' Hasegawa kit isn't that bad after all. The MikroMir kit is only marginally more refined as it seems.
4 March, 14:38
S MHasegawa has only 60 grey parts and 3 clear parts, but it is pretty smartly made and easy to build. MikroMir has 150 grey parts, 5 clear parts and 67 mandatory PE-parts. Being a short-run kit its parts need more work to fit. Still MikroMir contains more details (and Falcon missiles) than Hasegawa so it's comparatively cheaper.
4 March, 16:18
Patrick HagelsteinOK, so you do think the MikroMir kit is the more detailed one? Good to know when I get to my Austrian Draken project (sometimes this century.... )! Following your build with interest! 👍
4 March, 21:00
S MWell my background research is still going on, but atleast the cockpit is more detailed.
4 March, 21:19
S MI have to update that MikroMir's IRST is not as good as Hasegawa's. The seeker head is a clear part and there is one PE-part fin, but the two-part frame is bulky and doesn't have panel lines. Luckyly the Draken version I'm goingt to make doesn't have an IRST so I used the clear part and the PE-part to improve my Hasegawa-Draken's IRST.
7 April, 15:44
S MSlow progress, but I'm very proud of this simple tool that I made in 15 min to make 0,8mm diameter styrene circles.
5 June, 17:38
RandoMan. Struggling away with the clear parts on my RF-8 right now. Toughest part of modeling probably. Nice work on your canopy!
28 June, 03:30
S MThanks! @Rando I agree it is one of the most tough and riskiest parts. They took me 3 days because I wanted to make them pretty shiny with Humbrol Clear, but it takes lots of time to dry and it has become too thick. Next day when I check the clear parts they have some ugly residues and unevenness +hair. On the other part I just sanded and polished some minor points, but the other part I cleaned the varnish away with isopropanol and tried to dip it in varnish again. Next day still unevenness so I just sanded and polished them avay and dipped it in my more reliable floor polish that also dries faster.
28 June, 17:31
RandoYeah I've always had that with dipping parts in the floor polish, it doesn't dry evenly for me so I just polish with Tamiya and Novus compound. Good to get over the hump and onto painting and decals!
28 June, 23:59
S MBad luck with painting. I have to redo the top surface by removing most of the paint. It was a bad idea to preshade yellow with pink.
4 July, 23:05
ClementI've had better luck using tamiya XF-3 or any other flat yellow and following with a gloss varnish.
Gunze gloss yellow, orange, white etc are virtually useless to cover anything.
5 July, 06:32
S MYeah my choice of paints haven't been perfect, but I have settled for them and now the decals have been added. The big wisent needs some fixing.
12 July, 22:22
ClementLooking good! Given how short lived that scheme was, no preshading is probably the right call anyway 🙂
13 July, 10:47
S MI hope this gets finished in one day, because only landing gears are missing. I almost ruined this model with bad painting and bad choise of gloss varnish.
15 July, 21:39
S MThanks J35J, Clement, Podkon and Mimoid! The model is now ready, but I will take better photos tomorrow.
16 July, 20:43
Roland Sachsenhoferadded a new photoalbum.
17 7 July, 09:05
Roland SachsenhoferThis project has been waiting long enough, now the time has come! The "shell", seen here, is quickly put together, the glued seams are still wet, so to speak. I plan to show the A90 in a proper dio - gliding just above the water!
7 July, 09:08
TreehuggerI just remembered, I have this kit in my stash.
Are those windows on the side? Like on passenger jets?
7 July, 18:13
Roland SachsenhoferIf this was some kind of passenger aircraft, I would book a flight for sure. 🙂
I will drill the windows and fill them with Krystal Klear.
7 July, 18:25
Roland SachsenhoferThank you both for interest and comments! Well, I will think over with that windows.... Thank you for the link!
8 July, 06:46
Raz1I stand corrected. I had originally not seen the windows. Thanks, Skyhiker.
Plenty of interior photos here: flickr.com/photos/la..597/with/45021731405
And the last surviving example (per Wikipedia) is here: museum-vmf.ru/
Even though the appropriate page won't load here, a photo displays in the top-of-page banner rotation.
8 July, 14:30
Roland SachsenhoferI agree, what pictures! The question of the windows should now also be answered "from the inside" as well. Thanks for these excellent links, mates!
9 July, 12:40
Roland SachsenhoferA few new pictures here too: the finished pre-shading has shown a few touch-up needs, but tomorrow I want to be able to apply the surface colour!
11 July, 15:21
Michael KohlProbably too late, but that project would have been perfect to try a levitation display.
amazon.de/Magnetic-L..aps%2C127&sr=8-3
11 July, 17:27
Roland SachsenhoferI think it's a really wonderful idea.... A few Star Wars themes are in the making, possibly here: I would also like to see a Tie-Fighter hovering over this base.
A nice encounter - magnets are actually being used in this project! Since I want to show the "Orlyonok" gliding over a water surface as well as standing still, I have prepared two versions of the props. In order to be able to change them stably, I attached magnets to the axis of rotation. The one on the engine was inserted through a hole from the outside. It sits on the tip of a toothpick, which has been inserted through the hole in the inside of the engine. The magnet now sits exactly in the centre of the engine diameter. The second magnet only had to be glued to the two ends of the propeller axles. Now, it works perfectly with a soft "click"! 🙂
12 July, 06:56
Roland SachsenhoferThe Oryonok still looks a bit 'artificial', but in principle shows its surface colours, which will hopefully breathe a little life into it, are the traces of use and wear that I will still apply. The windows on the fuselage will of course also be drilled out and filled with clear white glue.
At the same time, the water base is now being worked on. This time I'm using a light filler on a polystyrene base as a base for this, with Vallejo water gel on top.
The magnetically interchangeable ahrwerk and propeller have worked - which is great news of course!
17 July, 17:34
hivelocadded a new photoalbum.
31 23 August 2022, 20:12
hivelocTime to put this on the shelf. I really need better lighting/ photography, 'cause my pictures don't do it justice.
9 October 2022, 15:30
hivelocBumping this so what happened 10 years ago today (MH17) is not forgotten.
More info here: bellingcat.com/news/..n-three-years-later/
17 July, 17:22
Amodel 1:72
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