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Frank
is eigenaar van dit item
is eigenaar van dit item
Hino Super Dolphin Tractor & Car Transporter Trailer
Fujimi 1:24
011967 (011967-8800) 2015 Nieuwe onderdelen 11 September, 19:14
Smudge
is eigenaar van dit item
is eigenaar van dit item
Latin American T-33's #3
SuperScale International 1:72
72-409 11 September, 19:13
SJL60
wil dit item
wil dit item
Focke-Wulf FW-190A-6 w/Wgr. 21 & Full engine and weapons interior
Border Model 1:35
BF-003 2023 Nieuwe mallen 11 September, 19:12
Gergely Rácz
heeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
heeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
35 afbeeldingen
PZL-Mielec An-2T "Colt" Polish Air Force 74471:72
Project: PZL-Mielec An-2T Polish Air Force
36 22 December 2023, 21:42
Łukasz Gliński
Interesting example you have selected - 7447 is the one that was used for escape to Austria and hence the special colours:
airplane-pictures.ne..-force-antonov-an-2/
Interesting example you have selected - 7447 is the one that was used for escape to Austria and hence the special colours:
airplane-pictures.ne..-force-antonov-an-2/
7 February, 21:04
Gergely Rácz
Thank You, Łukasz. While comparing to photographs of the actual '7447', camouflage colours seem to match, but when looking at the model itself, something doesn't feel right with them. I don't know why.
Thank You, Łukasz. While comparing to photographs of the actual '7447', camouflage colours seem to match, but when looking at the model itself, something doesn't feel right with them. I don't know why.
6 September, 08:32
Thomas Kolb
Man, the Colt looks really great as a model! Your project is inspiring me to perhaps build one myself! I will refer to your experiences.
Man, the Colt looks really great as a model! Your project is inspiring me to perhaps build one myself! I will refer to your experiences.
9 September, 05:08
Gergely Rácz
Thank You, Thomas. I never thought that I could inspire anyone in modelling, haha. 🙂
Anyway, the Trumpeter kit has several serious fit and shape issues, some of which I was unable to fix.
Thank You, Thomas. I never thought that I could inspire anyone in modelling, haha. 🙂
Anyway, the Trumpeter kit has several serious fit and shape issues, some of which I was unable to fix.
9 September, 07:11
SJL60
wil dit item
wil dit item
Focke-Wulf FW-190A-6 w/Wgr. 21 & Full engine and weapons interior
Border Model 1:35
BF-003 2023 Nieuwe mallen 11 September, 19:10
Joseph Lancaster
wil dit item
wil dit item
Dazzling Kings II Kfir from Ecuador, Sri Lanka and the U.S. Marine Corps
Aztec Models 1:72
72-054 2013 11 September, 19:09
DuperScale
heeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
heeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
29 11 July, 21:06
Chris Parsons
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment
11 July, 23:27
Thomas Kolb
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!
12 July, 02:31
DuperScale
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.
12 July, 06:24
Nicolas
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.
16 July, 14:48
Chris Parsons
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….
16 July, 23:24
Treehugger
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.
20 August, 05:21
Treehugger
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.
If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.
Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.
If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.
Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.
20 August, 05:25
Treehugger
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.
What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.
What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.
20 August, 05:35
Treehugger
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.
Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.
Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)
20 August, 07:35
Łukasz Gliński
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)
20 August, 07:59
DuperScale
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.
The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.
The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.
20 August, 16:10
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