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George Trainoris eigenaar van dit item
British
25Pdr.Field Gun & Quad Gun Tractor Canadian Ford F.G.TTamiya 1:35
MM144 (44) 1974 Model set Meervoudig onderwerp (2)27 August, 18:20
ICM 1:35
DerMattesheeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
9 24 August, 13:21
Michael RotthoweSince I have started the exact same kit, turning it into a Marineflieger 104 with Kormorans, I will most definitely be following 🙂
26 August, 15:02
DerMattesDanke Bernd 🙂
@Michael I only have the kit without the Marineflieger decals, hence the Peddinghaus ones. I 3d printed the Kormorans with the specific pylons for the F-104G. They were designed by cults3d.com/@Sufa312 after photos I have taken at the Wehrtechnische Studiensammlung in Koblenz. I think he did a great job and the files are free 🙂
26 August, 15:22
KitCMDRwil dit item
Israel
Nochri Degem Dalet Heavy Mine Roller System (For TS-001 & TS-025) Meng Model 1:35
SPS-021 2015 Nieuwe onderdelen 27 August, 18:17
Łukasz Glińskiheeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
14 23 August, 20:54
Łukasz GlińskiForgot to photograph the cockpit before adding the canopy - hope you forgive me that 😛
25 August, 19:58
Mr DComing along nicely 👍
Did you use masking fluid on the canopy??
Thanks for uploading... interesting build 😃👍
25 August, 21:16
Łukasz GlińskiYes Mr D, I went for the fluid as I found I haven't stocked my stash with the masks for this particular kit. Hope they will work well enough.
26 August, 19:00
Przemyslaw Sroczynskiis eigenaar van dit item
Merkava chains all variants
EMP3d 1:72
72040803 27 August, 18:17
George Adamopoulosis eigenaar van dit item
Barrels for 13mm MG 131
RB Model 1:48
48AB08 27 August, 18:16
George Adamopoulosis eigenaar van dit item
US WWII Pitot Tube "Shark Fin" Type used on P-36, P-39, P-40, P-47, A-36, B-25 and many more
Master 1:48
AM-48-156 2019 Nieuwe mallen 27 August, 18:14
Jakko heeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
52 afbeeldingen
Sherman BARV
1:35
Last addition before continuing with the paintwork: a ring bent from copper wire. This was a guide for the cable when th...
Project: Sherman BARV, D-Day
29 2 July, 20:50
gorbyI think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
5 July, 06:33
Jakko > I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
5 July, 08:53
Jakko @Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
9 July, 08:59
Ben MThank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
9 July, 11:58
Mr DRegarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
9 July, 13:30
Jakko @Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
9 July, 17:09
Mr DGood video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
11 July, 12:55
Jakko I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
11 July, 17:41
Robert PodkońskiI see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
16 July, 15:17
Jakko Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
16 July, 17:21
Mr DTaking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
25 July, 21:06
Jakko Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
26 July, 08:57
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