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Diego DH
Unlikely dogfight... the BF-109 F-4 had been superseded by the time the P-51D got into service.
Unlikely dogfight... the BF-109 F-4 had been superseded by the time the P-51D got into service.
P-51D Mustang vs Messerschmitt Bf109F-4 Dogfight Doubles
Airfix 1:72
A50193 2024 Nieuwe markeringen Meervoudig onderwerp (1!!)25 July, 06:16
Sammy the rat
begon dit item
begon dit item
U.S. Navy Aircraft Set No.2 Includes 4 F-4S Phantom II, 2 EA-6B Prowler, 2 E-2C Hawkeye & 2 SH-3H Sea King.
Tamiya 1:350
78009 (7309) 1985 Nieuwe mallen 25 July, 06:15
Sammy the rat
begon dit item
begon dit item
U.S. Navy Aircraft Set No. 1 2 F-14 Tomcat, 2 F-18A Hornet, 2 S-3A Viking, 2 A-6E Intruder, 2 A-7E Corsair II
Tamiya 1:350
78006 (7306) 1985 Nieuwe mallen Meervoudig onderwerp (5)25 July, 06:15
Thomas Kolb
heeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
heeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
32 afbeeldingen
Aero L-39 Albatros - Eduard1:72
Masking tape removed - an extremely saisfying part. Well, a tiny bit of overspray on the underwing pylons, but it's all ...
Project: Aero L-39 Albatros - Eduard
42 14 June, 06:54
Thomas Kolb
While waiting for some paints to arrive in the mail to continue my MiG-23 build project, I decided to do a very quick build of the Eduard L-39 in my stash. This kit is labeled as a "weekend" build, which might be a bit optimistic for me, but should still be a quick progress.
While waiting for some paints to arrive in the mail to continue my MiG-23 build project, I decided to do a very quick build of the Eduard L-39 in my stash. This kit is labeled as a "weekend" build, which might be a bit optimistic for me, but should still be a quick progress.
14 June, 07:14
Clement
Do you already have a plan for the shades you're going to use? I found the L-39 classic camouflage very hard to get right. I hope you'll have more luck with it.
Do you already have a plan for the shades you're going to use? I found the L-39 classic camouflage very hard to get right. I hope you'll have more luck with it.
14 June, 17:32
Clement
Thanks @Łukasz, well spotted!
MRP-010 Brown Green ČSN 2250
MRP-013 Khaki ČSN 5450
MRP-027 Light Pastel Grey ČSN 1010
For those interested
Thanks @Łukasz, well spotted!
MRP-010 Brown Green ČSN 2250
MRP-013 Khaki ČSN 5450
MRP-027 Light Pastel Grey ČSN 1010
For those interested
15 June, 06:17
Thomas Kolb
For the Hungarian standard camo, MRP has released an entire set, consisting of MRP-351 Brown, MRP-352 Dark Green and MRP-353 Light Blue.
For the Hungarian standard camo, MRP has released an entire set, consisting of MRP-351 Brown, MRP-352 Dark Green and MRP-353 Light Blue.
18 June, 16:11
Thomas Kolb
Yesterday I spent some time comparing the hue and tint of the MRP paints with my own mix of Tamiya acrylics (as described in photo 26 above), and found them to be absolutely identical. I also found the MRP paints much too smelly and aggressive and hard to adjust if you want to blend in slightly varying tones in panels etc. The Tamiyas can furthermore be used for extremely diluted thin filter applications, while the MRP are block solid.
Yesterday I spent some time comparing the hue and tint of the MRP paints with my own mix of Tamiya acrylics (as described in photo 26 above), and found them to be absolutely identical. I also found the MRP paints much too smelly and aggressive and hard to adjust if you want to blend in slightly varying tones in panels etc. The Tamiyas can furthermore be used for extremely diluted thin filter applications, while the MRP are block solid.
19 June, 06:49
Clement
Well done on those paints!
I agree with you, Tamiya paints spray great and don't smell nearly as nasty as MRP's.
Well done on those paints!
I agree with you, Tamiya paints spray great and don't smell nearly as nasty as MRP's.
19 June, 13:22
Łukasz Gliński
I see you mixed too much of this colour and used it on the background 😋
Lovely preshading, sth I don't have enough patience for
I see you mixed too much of this colour and used it on the background 😋
Lovely preshading, sth I don't have enough patience for
21 June, 10:31
Cuajete
Very nice painting job, Thomas. Looks fantastic so far 👍
I recently saw that Edward has released the transparent parts of this kit as "L-39 Revised Canopy":
L-39 Revised Canopy (Eduard 7040Y, 1:72)
Do you know what problem the original transparent parts have?
Very nice painting job, Thomas. Looks fantastic so far 👍
I recently saw that Edward has released the transparent parts of this kit as "L-39 Revised Canopy":
L-39 Revised Canopy (Eduard 7040Y, 1:72)
Do you know what problem the original transparent parts have?
24 July, 17:49
Thomas Kolb
Cuajete, thank you! No, I wasn't aware of any issues with the canopy. To me, the version provided in the kit is good enough, it certainly looks correct compared with photos.
Cuajete, thank you! No, I wasn't aware of any issues with the canopy. To me, the version provided in the kit is good enough, it certainly looks correct compared with photos.
24 July, 19:53
Nicolas
I'm not sure, but the kit photos show onle the multi part canopy. The revised Canopy kit also has a single peace closed version.
I'm not sure, but the kit photos show onle the multi part canopy. The revised Canopy kit also has a single peace closed version.
25 July, 04:27
Thomas Kolb
Nicolas, yes, you are right. With the new set you also get a closed canopy so the builder doesn't have to join the separate pieces together. I guess it makes for a simpler build.
Nicolas, yes, you are right. With the new set you also get a closed canopy so the builder doesn't have to join the separate pieces together. I guess it makes for a simpler build.
25 July, 06:07
Jakko
heeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
heeft een nieuw fotoalbum toegevoegd.
36 afbeeldingen
Sherman BARVNieuw: 24 July, 20:37 1:35
The bumper on the front doesn’t fit the one-piece transmission housing because it was made for the three-piece. By cutti...
Project: Sherman BARV, D-Day
22 2 July, 20:50
gorby
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
5 July, 06:33
Jakko
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
5 July, 08:53
Jakko
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
9 July, 08:59
Ben M
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
9 July, 11:58
Mr D
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
9 July, 13:30
Jakko
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
9 July, 17:09
Mr D
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
11 July, 12:55
Jakko
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
11 July, 17:41
Robert Podkoński
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
16 July, 15:17
Jakko
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
16 July, 17:21
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