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Neuling
Good teamwork!

Danny Ray
This looks fantastic. I'm a bit jealous because I'm planning a build with a Sherman III (in British terms), Crusaders and Stuart's, Matilda's, etc (though maybe not all at once. I don't think 2nd El Alamein had ALL allied tanks fighting, from every era?)
Anyway, the build is for a tribute to my old grandad who co-drove Crusaders and Shermans. His unit was 10th Royal Hussars and if you see the markings and paint schemes they used, it's the most plain out of them all. No camo whatsoever. Also, rather than the yellow tinged sand/stone colour used by most, they used a brown (think it's RAL8000).
In order to be accurate I'll do it in the correct colours but I'd have liked to camo it up!
(By the way I'm very much a novice and it'll take me a long time to attempt this. I have over 40 kits to practice on though 😳😍😁🤓😂)

Scott Dutton
Don't worry about being a novice, just enjoy what you do, that way you improve

Danny Ray
Good advice Scott. Can you remember who made this kit? I'm having trouble deciding which one to go for. I'm contemplating plastic individual track links and using 0.2mm wire cut down as pins (no glue), so I guess that limits my choice? (By the way and I bet you get this a LOT. Isn't Dutton the name that Kevin Costner's family have in the show Yellowstone?. You ain't a Montana cattle baron, are you? 😃).

Danny Ray
Sorry. I saw the kit. It's a Dragon 6573. It doesn't have the correct Markings for my grandads memorial (10th Hussars, 2nd arm brig, 1st arm div) but they are available after market. I got some already actually from eBay. I don't suppose anyone here would know off the top of their heads if this type of Sherman fought at 2nd Alamein battle? It gets a bit confusing because Sherman III's were known as Sherman II's by the Brits. So I'm led to believe?

Danny Ray
Sorry for all the questions Scott but the aerials and pennants some use (like the 2 here), are they part of the kit or do you buy those separately? I've never seen them in any kit.

Jakko ‌
Aerials are easy to make from metal wire. I prefer 0.3 mm spring steel myself, which you can buy from model shops that cater to people who scratchbuild working models in metal, like those making ships, trains, steam engines, etc. The advantage of spring steel is that it will curve but not bend if you accidentally hit it, unlike brass or copper wire. Do use cutters suitable for it, though — it will ruin ones that aren't strong enough. Then just drill a hole slightly larger than the wire, as deep as you can, and superglue it in.

For the tracks, the MiniArt T41 or WE210 sets are probably the easiest choice if you want plastic ones. Slightly tricky to build, but not actually bad once you get the hang of it (and make a simple jig from some bits of wood). Stay away from Bronco, they will drive you crazy 🙁

T41 WORKABLE TRACK LINK SET (MiniArt 35322, 1:35)
WE210 Workable Track Link Set (MiniArt 35323, 1:35)

Danny Ray
Thanks Jakko. That's typical, I've just ordered some 0.3mm enamelled copper wire that I was planning on using as track link pins instead of the flimsy plastic ones that come with (I just bought a border models Crusader III for a planned memorial for my grandad, a co-driver on crusaders and shermans in 10th hussars in N Africa and Italy) a recent kit. These are the tracks I meant. Also as part of the memorial I was planning on getting a Dragon 6447 (the El Alamein one with magic tracks). They both employ these ridiculous plastic pins that are so thin they immediately bend , even if you manage to get them off the sprue intact! lol

Danny Ray
By the way Jakko. Can you buy the small penants they seemed to use so often in North Africa? I don't think I've seen them used elsewhere but they seemed to be everywhere in NA.

Danny Ray
Thing is, I'm a very, very green modeller. Built a few as a kid but only on my 4th build as an adult. The expensive Miniart and Border and Dragon kits will be done at a much later date once I've made lots of mistakes on cheaper ones. Also I'm still trying to get to terms with the airbrush I bought. Think I've bent the needle slightly already. I'm not the most practical person going but I really want to do a good job on this memorial build I'm planning with his medals and cap badges. His badges include one that has a WW1 male tank and the words "fear naught". They are great.

Jakko ‌
You could use the copper wire for aerials, too — just be careful you don't bend it. (OTOH, copper wire is also fairly easy to straighten if you do bend it 🙂)

As for the pennants, they were mainly a North Africa thing, AFAIK. They're easy enough to make yourself. Cut one from, say, aluminium kitchen foil, slightly longer than you need it to be. Wrap that extra length around the aerial, superglue it in place, and paint the pennant. (Best do this before adding the aerial to the model, though, as it will be much easier.)

For a Sherman kit, I would recommend the Asuka Sherman III over the Dragon one, really. I just don't like the way the Dragon Shermans go together, or the coarseness of a lot of their detail, but I do like the Asuka ones 🙂 Only thing is that this kit has the later style of suspension with the return rollers behind the bogies, unlike Scott's model, which has them on the top. If you've got photos of your grandfather's tank, though, you can probably check which kind his had.

Sherman III (ASUKA Model 35-017, 1:35)

Scott Dutton
Danny, Go the Asuka kit, much nicer.
Decals were from left overs and some aircraft ones and home made

Danny Ray
Thanks fellas. I think that sherman III was available during 2nd battle of el alamein. We brits called sherman III's sherman II's, i think. Unfortunately all photos of my grandads war were lost back in 1993. Im so glad i didnt buy tge dragon kit last night. Came very close!
Gonna get this today. Thank you both so much for your advice. Do you mind if i ask you both the odd question from time to time? Maybe i can add you both as 'scalemates'? 🙂

Danny Ray
By the way I think I already said but I already have some Sherman decals that were on a 10th hussars tank in NA and that was a major reason I was choosing the dragon kit, cos it has 10th hussars decals but it isn't a deal breaker cos I have them. They are a white rhino on a black pill shape and a white '67' on a red square and a blue circle with a '2' inside 🙂

Jakko ‌
Feel free to add me as a mate, and/or PM me if you want to ask a question you think I might have an answer to 🙂

The British didn't call the Sherman II a Sherman III — they called the "Medium Tank, M4" the "Sherman" because all the M-numbers were confusing, and then numbered them as follows: M4 = Sherman I, M4A1 = Sherman II, M4A2 = Sherman III, M4A3 = Sherman IV, M4A4 = Sherman V. At the second battle of El Alamein, the British Army had only the Sherman II and III in service. For the II, your best option is Sherman II (ASUKA Model 35-014, 1:35) as it's the correct very early type, with the early bogies (like on Scott's Sherman III) and the direct vision flaps in front of the drivers' hatches. For the Sherman III, use the kit I linked to earlier, but you will need to replace the bogies by M4 Sherman “VVSS” Suspen..t (ASUKA Model 35-L15, 1:35) which is hard to get unless you order direct from Asuka: tasca-shop.ocnk.net/product/480

Danny Ray
Jakko forgive me but why would I need to replace the bogies? I thought you said the Brits had Sherman III's at 2nd Alamein?
As an aside (and could possibly excuse my needing to replace them) he did go on to operate Shermans when the 10th Hussars were eventually redeployed to Italy). Though, it'd be a big diorama if it incorporated Libya and Italy! lol

I guess I could have a crusader for his earlier career and the Sherman III for the later career but If I'm honest, I'd prefer to make it accurate all to North Africa. Sorry if I seem a bit dim with the questions. Also I'll friend request you so I don't keep sabotaging Mr Dutton's thread! 🙂

Jakko ‌
Ah, yes, I didn't explain the bogies that well 🙂 Early Shermans had bogies with the return roller on top, which was the same model of bogie as used on the M3, AKA Lee/Grant. From late 1942 or so, though, the factories switched to the type with the return roller behind the bogie body.

All of the Shermans at El Alamein would have been produced when they still used the earlier type, but the Asuka Sherman III kit has the later style, which is correct for the latter part of the war in North Africa (and Italy), but not for El Alamein. By replacing the bogies, though, it will be. Of course, tanks with the early bogies kept them, so you can also see those in Tunisia or Italy.

Danny Ray
So just to be clear. The British had M4A1 and M4A2 at Alamein (2nd battle)? Which is the American Sherman II and Sherman III? And the kits are listed under the American system? So a Sherman III is an M4 A2? Which were there? Due to not knowing which type my grandfather was in, either an A1 or A2 type is ok. What is the DVSS suspension issue with the M4A2 type? Sorry if my questions are making your eyes roll? 😂

Jakko ‌
As one of my physics teachers in school used to say, "There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers" 🙂

But yes, you're correct: British Shermans at the second battle of El Alamein were mostly M4A1s (which the British called Sherman Mk. II) and some M4A2s (which they called Sherman Mk. III). To go from American to British designation, basically just take the American A-number, add 1, and make it Roman: M4A1 becomes II, for example. This applies to Shermans only, BTW!

The issue with the VVSS in the Asuka Mk. III kit is that it has the return roller behind the bogie, not on top of it. Take a look at the.shadock.free.fr/..vvss_suspension.html for more than you probably ever wanted to know about Sherman VVSS 🙂

Scott Dutton
By coincidence, picked up that suspension set at swap meet on Sunday. AUD$15

Danny, easy way to remember British Designation. Add 1 to the US designation. M4 is effectively M$(AO) hence 0+1 = Sherman 1. M4A4 (A4+1 = 5) Sherman V you then play around with composites and 17 Pdr versions (Add a C). Work backwards Sherman II is therefore M4A1, the cast hull version

Id love to find a aftermarket HVSS (E* set). Noone seems to do a M4A1 76mm with E8 suspension (Except Tamiya which is an DF one and it has different back deck)
That .fr site is magnificent

Scott Dutton
This is indeed the correct kit Sherman II (ASUKA Model 35-014, 1:35), you can see the early bogies with the return rollers up top
Has the sand shields as well and the oil can holder on front fender. Way to go.

Scott Dutton
This one Sherman III (ASUKA Model 35-017, 1:35) is british Sherman 3 (M4A2) with early VVSS (In title) but the instructions show it with return rollers to rear so would need that suspension set mentioned above

This one Sherman III (Tasca 35-L28, 1:35) appears correct . This appears the only Asuka/Tasca one with correct parts OOB

scalemates
Here you go Paint range: The Inks

Spanjaard
looking good. you certainly had fun with the masking 😉

Michael Schubert
Haha not wrong, painstaking work under a big magnifying glass 🤣 I need to get back to it, it was a fun little kit, but I get tremors sometimes in my dominant hand and the size was just infuriating me so I put a pause on it..

Robert Podkoński
Good job so far. Keep it up!

Spanjaard
i can imagine, i am postponing the masking of mine too 😄

Michael Schubert
Masking worked well, minimal bleed through near the tail only so pretty happy how it is turning out... now to let it air a bit and start on some decals

Michael Schubert
Decals sliding on 👌

Michael Schubert
Added the last of the build pics and the finished model album can be found here:
Percival Provost T.1 1/144 Complete | Album by mikie91au (1:144)

Thanks for following along 😀

Spanjaard
great job!

Michael Schubert
Thanks @Spanjaard! I take that high praise coming from you! I've seen your 1/144 models and they are incredible!!

scalemates
OMG, let me check

Desert Marlin
Gotta watch this one!!!

Desert Marlin
Looks great so far!

Petr Kreps
Thanks Desert😉

gorby
I agree. Very nice work so far.

Guy Rump
Following too! 👍

Petr Kreps
Thank you gorby and Guy Rump😉

Desert Marlin
Oh... There it is! Taking shape nicely!!!

Michael Schubert
How did I miss the start of this one? Looks sweet so far! Pulling up a chair 💺

Robert Podkoński
Watching with interest.

Shar Dipree
Looks great so far.

Robert Podkoński
Beautiful! Fantastic job!

Spanjaard
excellent job. the masking task certainly paid off. it looks great

Michael Schubert
Thanks Mates! I made a few minor errors but nothing huge, so I'm really happy with the end result! This one is going on display upstairs in the living area for awhile haha (with my Wife's permission of course 😅)

Christoph Kunz
Watching with interesst.
I've done one landing gear yesterday, very fiddly.

J35J
I'm in. Following👍🏻

Jakub Biganovsky
I am wondering how landing gear subassembly will fit; it will be next step.

Cuajete
Well done so far. Following!

Finn
I'm in

Łukasz Gliński
Joining the party

Robert Podkoński
Taking a seat.

Nicolas
Joining the fun.

J35J
The kit looks more "build friendly" than the DH88 Mikromir kit 1:48.
Looking forward to see the final result 👍🏻

Jakub Biganovsky
Yep, Clear props brough realy high level of plastic kits. They are not same level as Tamyia/Eduard or...., but still very high.
Nice fitting and approximate details make a building friendly. Some small part surfaces keep milling prints due to local missing polishing of mould, but still fine.

Michael Kohl
Following closely your progress as I have an eye on this kit. Nice additions you make and valuable experiences you share.

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Cuajete
Good progress! 👍

Christoph Kunz
Thank you for your detailed buildlog.
I'm staying tuned.

Cuajete
Great (hard) job so far 👍

Kenneth
Following 😳

Michael Kohl
Fit of the wing halfes is a problem indeed (bought the kit in the meantime), but I think you chose the harder route. Sanding/scraping down the contact areas between the upper and lower wing halfes should solve the problem without the need for extensive use of putty afterwards.

Jakub Biganovsky
Michael Kohl, your recommendation could work. But, evidently not in my case.
Although that I thinned both halfs to try to fit them precisely as possible, a micro step was there after glueing halfs togther.
The gap between shorter lower and longer upper half was relatively big.
And the last think is, that lower and upper "profile" did not correspond to each other.