Revell's (ICM's) Henschel 33 D German WW2 Truck
Opmerkingen
31 5 January, 15:15
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I'll have to wait to Thursday until the temps drop back to -10 deg C, otherwise it's around -20'ish deg C now, but unconfortable to do any aribrushing.
I made sure to have the two doors fit with the cabin and the slanted front window. Have to go over with white again and fix some issues before adding the yellow.
Btw, I learned only recently how to heh airbrush with lower psi. When lowering psi, I have to pull the trigger way back to get the best flow, and I must keep the airbrush aimed at the same place for several seconds, otherwise there's just not enough paint coming out. Still unsure just how thin I must thin the paint. Lowering the psi is a must for airbrushing inside the cabin cavity, and inside the backside of the truck, to avoid overspray inside cavities.
Kit comes with white decals for dark vehicle (gray or camo), and black decals for a brighter colored vehicle (sand).
8 January, 23:27
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I'd suppose the temp should go down in Norway soon, we went from -23 to +3 in two days here in Finland 🙂 Been struggling with the same problem myself, too cold to airbrush without problems 🙂
9 January, 14:15
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Another great one, Treehugger. What airbrush, compressor, and paint (brand and type) are ya using?
9 January, 15:46
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In the beginning I used one of those cheap airbrushes, but on two of them the needle was off center, and eventually I found an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (0.35) at an affordable price on eBay years ago and it still works. I keep some spare parts around, like a couple of needles and nozzles.
The compressor is some variant of Sil Air 15 iirc, too bad it makes annoying "PCHHHT" niose when reaching max setting for pressure, I thought they would be quiet all the time.
I never got into Tamiya paints, and I sorted my Humrol tins at a toxic waste/garbage facility years ago, so I only use Vallejo for paints in general. It is very important to sift the drops coming out of a Vallejo primer paint bottle, to avoid clogging. Regular Vallejo Air tend to not give me clogging.
Not sure I can recommend Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush, I suspect it doesn't perform the best at low pressure, but then again I honesty don't know how it compares to other airbrushes at lower around 20 psi. Seems there is more splatter, but maybe that means the paint isn't thinned enough perhaps. I am getting better at this, so I can't complain. I like the Eclipse HP-CS because of its one large self centering nozzle. Still fragile at the tip, but is designed to be cleaned, as is as one large nozzle without trying to screw off the tip.
9 January, 16:26
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I have that Iwata as well as a Neo (x2), two cheap Chinese ones (Don't bother unless you want a disposable airbrush) and now I'm trying a Neoeco that I can't remember the model designation off the top of my head.
My compressor isn't tanked and not super silent but compared to using my Porter Cable pancake compressor (yup, that's called working on a budget) it's like a kittens purr.
Paints🤣 I have too many varieties. I do stay in acrylics for airbrushing to save my self the fumes. Acrylic paint won't forgive none washed, finger printed kits, that's for sure. I finally got some Green Stuff World strainers, which has helped the "clean airbrush not working" for sure. What strainers are you using? I also add flow improver and slow dry from Liquitex. They have a draw back. The cause any paint to gain gloss to semi gloss finish. I just use a satin clear coat (VMS. Love there products. Thanks Uncle Nightshift😄) and all works out.
I'm no expert (ask my ex, children, family and friends) but, I do love our hobby and friends.
I believe that each hobbyist has to find out what works for them. I'm in NY so, humidity and temp can be all over (Mother nature needs some Prozac). I soldier on though.
One more thing……I use too many brackets in my posts. I think I may have a problem (or at lest everybody tells me so🤔)
9 January, 17:51
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I will have to make sure to start airbrushing the difficult parts first, so I don't end up flooding the model with paint as I try to get the hard-to-reach parts last.
Really happy with the Valljo Model Color mix here in my last upload. 50/50 mix with thinner, and some drops of flow enhancer. I did not have any yellow'ish color in Vallejo Air range, so I had to use my Model Color bottle here.
10 January, 16:01
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Ya know, every time I superglue details without scraping away some paint from the mounting point, one detail or two decides it's going on vacation!😤 Yet, Ammo by MiG Ultra glue doesn't want to budge if I take a hammer to it (exaggerating, I know but it's my comment and I'm sticking to it 🤭🤭). I'm glad to see your making great progress and your problem solving is far superior to a figure that expanded in the wash (international man of excuses right here and available for Burfdays, weddings, and baptisms).
25 January, 15:02
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I learned today how to use a circle cutter to make cocentric circles. 🙂 DSPIEA sells a circle cutter variant with a centering device, but I don't have that.
Trick is to use a hard plastic box with square shape to it. Then place an ideally rectangular cutting mat inside the box, and then place the small cutting mat and the circle cutter up against the corner of the plastic box. 🙂
25 January, 15:47
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Thank you. I think I might have to scratch at the pigment stuff before going over the vehicle airbrushing on sand. Haven't done this before. No reason to think the pigment will come off with thinner I think (and I thinner might create splotches of "clean" areas looking weird), so I'll gently try scratch off any excessive stuff. I am not entirely happy, but the idea was that the truck was caked down with sand, and I guess I got carried away when putting pigment on the wheels.
Another small thing, chrome pen doesn't flow well on flat surfaces it seems, best used in cavities and on round shapes, but not on flat areas, as the paint does seem to create an uneven non-mirror surface because of the thickness of the accumulated paint from the pen if one isn't careful. I can try use metal foil for two tiny parts and use the circle cutter (ca 2mm diameter circles at front of vehicle).
25 January, 15:57
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Hehe. Oof. I ruined the front window dusty sand look, but I took some 12 photos with the model rotated. Might create some more photos later.
I forgot to photograph the entire shadow on some photos, as the model was sitting on an A4 piece of white paper, and some shade fell over the edge of the paper and wasn't captured. I guess I can take some new photos not showing the front windows. 🙂
Hmm, I guess I could simply wipe off the dust off the front windows, and reapply it all.
Edit: I re-uploaded the image. Image should be more sharp now and the truck is now also a little larger in the photo.
23 April, 09:15