Ju 88 G10 Dragon /OOB
Opmerkingen
2 5 April 2018, 16:19
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Nice start Jens, I've got a few of these Dragon Ju-88's but when I tried to build one last century the wing join to the fuselage stopped me from going further. Curious to see how it goes as it was probably my lack of skill back then.
6 April 2018, 06:13
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Glad to see if there are observers @ Michael, look into my album, in February I built Dragon's G-6, the design was just horror, evergreens, putty and superglue, but it can be done
6 April 2018, 10:10
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Ahh, is that what I got to look forward to, even though you did a good job of yours.👍
6 April 2018, 11:40
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Well Michael, I have already built many Dragon / Trimaster models, Horten, Heinkel, Fw 190, Ta 152, some even differ extremely in Dragon's quality, for Shanghai Dragon I would spend no more money! Dragon Master or the Revell pads, on the other hand, are cleanly drained, but even small tricks during assembly help to avoid many problems 😉
6 April 2018, 11:51
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Yes, I have built my fair share of Fw-190's from Dragon/Trimaster, what do you think taught m e patience.😢
6 April 2018, 12:00
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Jens you have given me an itch I can't stop scratching. I think it's time to build a 1/48 Dragon Ju-88 with the balloon cutter attached to the wings & nose. First I need to finish my B-25 which needs about 10-12 hours work done before she's finished.
6 April 2018, 12:04
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ohhh Michael, do not blame me for your gray hair 🙂 🙂 🙂 ,
If you want to see a model without worries, fast and cool, then try the GWH Fw 189 on ski, Dragon always needs a lot of coffee, a lot of spatula, a lot of concessions, new engravings and rivets and of course a lot of time
6 April 2018, 12:34
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@Michael Have Fun with it, i almost finished a 48 Revell Jaguar and laid my eyes on a 48 SMER ( Ex-KP) Su25UB that is waving to me in my stack. 'DO ME,DO ME.' Can i Resist?
6 April 2018, 12:41
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I have chosen 2 possible spatula options
Revell for the rough work, wax spatula for the smaller places
The hull seam is completely closed with wax, when all parts are connected there is some filler from Alclad and then probably a waterfall when wet grinding
6 April 2018, 13:12
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Thank you James, but you know yourself, the critical points are still coming, and there the path of the Ju 88, garbage or master 😄 😄 😄
6 April 2018, 18:50
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Thanks and ohhh yes Thomas, the G 10 gets all the love of the Lord, I think it is one of the most beautiful Ju 88 types ever
6 April 2018, 19:05
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Didn't think Dragon kits were that labour-intensive and putty-eating 😄
I'll be watching this. The Ju88 is a beautiful plane and so far the build looks good 🙂
6 April 2018, 22:00
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@ Rene, ICM hat inzwischen einiges an Ju 88 aus neuen Formen und plant auch viel neues dazu, manches kann man dann auch mixen, aber Dragon Trimaster/Dragon ohne Spachtel gibt es nicht 😄 @ Martien, Danke, du kennst mich, ich bin meist viel zu schnell auch im Ziel 😄
6 April 2018, 22:30
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@James, the G 6 is designed differently from the construction, look into my album
Dragon Ju 88 G6 | Album by Starterset (1:48)
the G 6 has significantly more offset on the fuselage than the G 10, you can probably see the work in the pictures, but it can also be done
6 April 2018, 23:25
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I can't wait to get into my Ju-88A-6, it comes with a couple of frets of P.E one just for the cockpit alone.😄
7 April 2018, 01:58
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Dann kann ich mich ja bei den 3 Dragonkits (Me262, Fw190 und He162) auf etwas spachteln freuen😉 Ich hoffe nur, dass die 1:32 Ju88 A1 von Revell nicht zu viel Spachtel nascht 😄
7 April 2018, 07:03
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Moin Rene , eine Fw 190 A8 von "Shanghai" Dragon habe ich im Müll entsorgt,aber Shanghai Dragon, die Revell Auflage der Trimaster Formen war dagegen fast Tamiya Level, die Me 262 ist ganz okay, da habe ich schon Revell, Dragon und Trimaster verarbeitet, nur die Italeri B1/U kenne ich nicht, bischen an den Düsen machen, aber nichts grosses 👍 die 162 ist auch relativ sorglos, mit den Dragon /Trimaster Ätzteilen wird man aber immer Probleme haben( besser Ersatz von Eduard ) , selbst nach dem Ausglühen bleibt das Panzerstahl 😄 , ansonsten, viel Spass und Vergnügen bei dem Vorhaben, schau nur aus welcher Auflage die Fw 190 A ist. da sind 20 Euro für die Eduard mehr nur eine Investition die Nerven schonen kann 😉 von der 32er Revell Ju 88 habe ich noch nichts negatives gehört, das muss ein echter Spasskit sein 🙂
Moin Rene, a Fw 190 A8 from "Shanghai" Dragon I disposed of in the trash, but Shanghai Dragon, the Revell edition of the Trimaster forms was almost Tamiya level, the Me 262 is quite okay, since I already have Revell, Dragon and Trimaster processed, only the Italeri B1 / U I know not, make a little at the jets, but nothing big 👍 the 162 is also relatively careless, with the Dragon / Trimaster etched parts but you will always have problems (better replacement of Eduard), even after annealing remains the armor steel 😄, otherwise, a lot of fun and pleasure in the project, look only from which edition the Fw 190 A is. there are 20 euros for the Eduard more just an investment that can spare nerves 😉
7 April 2018, 07:38
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@ Michael, I would have a tip for all the Dragon Ju 88, CMK offers seats made of resin, molded straps, but still much better quality than the Dragon versions 😉
7 April 2018, 07:41
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some colleagues complain about the pulpit fit, as far as it is done here I had no problems with it
Of course, in the places of the extension of putty work necessary, but that would be synonymous with Tamiya to do when you cut the hull with the saw
7 April 2018, 08:14
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Ich habe die Langnasen-Dora von Dragon im Schrank. Da bin ich mal gespannt ob sie so zickt wie die A8, im Müll wird sie aber definitiv nicht landen (höchstens an der Wand😉 ). Die kriegt man schon irgendwie gezähmt😉
Als nächstes baue ich die Italeri 262, ein Trimaster-Kit in neuem Karton. 🙂 Die Dragon bleibt erstmal liegen. Für das offene Triebwerk möchte ich lieber erst noch etwas üben^^
Die Dragon Edelstahl-Ätzteile, da sagst du was... jaja, die waren beim Kugelblitz schon lustig... und das waren sehr simple Teile 😄
Negatives habe ich auch noch nicht gehört/gelesen. Erstmal wird sie aber weiter Staub in der Schublade ansetzen, an so etwas komplexes wage ich mich noch nicht. Zumal im Moment auch nirgends Platz für dieses Riesenteil ist 😄
Eigentlich eine gute Idee, zweisprachig zu schreiben.
I have the Langnasen-Dora (D-9) in my stash. I'm curious if it will be as hard as the A8, but it definitely won't be trashed (maybe walled though😉 ). I'll tame it one way or the other.
Next in my building queue is the Italeri 262, the rebox from an old Trimaster kit. The Dragon will have to wait, I want to practice painting details before tackling the open engine on display. 🙂
Haven't heard or read much bad about the 32nd Ju88 from Revell as well, but it'll have to wait. I feel it's too complex for my current skill level, plus I don't have a place to put that monster right now. 😄
The Dragon stainless steel PE parts were already "funny" to work with while building their Kugelblitz. And those were quite simple parts...
7 April 2018, 14:21
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Surface adaptation for Dragon models
I'm radical and just milling down the marked line
calm roughly, because the fit is achieved by the surface profile
then a little spatula, unfortunately I had the clamp set too loose, so I still have a tiny gap between the hull and the surface
but not big, that's enough Gunze With Putty
8 April 2018, 06:08
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Looks good. And it seems like a nice filling/sanding practice indeed. 🙂
8 April 2018, 07:35
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The real fun begins, finally color,
the black is filler from the Alclad, there are still grinding areas to be found
The RLM 76 comes from Gunze Mr. Color, I also have Gunze Hobby Color, but since the other "opaque colors" are acrylic, Enamel makes it perfect as a primer for washing and also the shading Gunze Hobby Color / Gunze Mr. Color brings very light Mirror in the surface, so Enamel primer
8 April 2018, 11:53
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there was a little more work than expected, after the Semimatt was a lot to see what reworking required ...
but now home straight, cannons made of cannulae, radar of master brass, antenna of EZ Line, flame damper of Quick Boost ....
Reached home stretch
9 April 2018, 07:04
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Das ging schnell. 🙂
Sieht auch gut aus soweit. Aber auf Bild 49, oben... Hat sich das Tape da etwas hochgezogen?🤔
Bin gespannt auf die Details. 👍
Making quick work of this baby. Looks good so far. On photo #49, is the tape lifted?
Looking forward to the detailwork.
9 April 2018, 07:31
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Hallo Rene , ich habe keinen Hund, keine Frau und keine Freundin 😄 😄 😄 , also was bedeutet da schnell ??
Bild 49 ja, da hat sich das Masking etwas gelöst, aber kein Problem, wenn etwas Nebel da ist, wird es mit dem Zahnstocher entfernt.
Hello Rene, I have no dog, no wife and no girlfriend 😄 😉, so what does it mean fast?
Picture 49 yes, there the masking has solved something, but no problem, if there is some fog, it is removed with the toothpick.
9 April 2018, 08:39
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Hehe so kommt man natürlich gut vorwärts🙂
Na hoffentlich ist nicht viel Farbe auf der Scheibe.
9 April 2018, 17:23
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never knew this Ju 88 required so much putty....Count me in for the rest of the build
10 April 2018, 06:59
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ohhh yes Wim, the Dragon Ju 88/188 demands a lot on Spachtel, it is my 3rd this year, the worst was the Ju 88 G6, I also have pictures in my album that did not fit the hull right and left 1mm different lengths, shifted engravings, but look at it, so much Evergreen plastic I did not need before ...
10 April 2018, 07:19
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But you keep at it and make the beast fit!
Very nice work on the camo. That must have been quite a while of spraying.
10 April 2018, 07:26
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such a meander does not last long, each color about 30 minutes, the advantage of such coatings is, even templates can only be used as an idea, so you can let off steam
10 April 2018, 08:04
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Ok then I'm just a slow airbrusher. The stripes on my current build took me nearly 1.5hrs. Including fixing some too heavily screwed up ones. 😄
The mottling with the meanders over it looks really good. 🙂
10 April 2018, 14:32
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Rene , das kann man so nicht sagen, langsames Brushen /schnelles Brushen, bei manchen Arbeiten muss man dabei bleiben, sonst verliert man den Faden, solche Mäander sind sowas, besser wirklich durchziehen, setzt man neu an, ändert man die Radien, den Verlauf und das ganze wirkt dann nicht stimmig, aber, ich verwende auch sehr schnell trocknende Farben, Alclad, Gunze Mr. und Hobby Color, da gehe ich sofort mit neuen Farben drauf, ohne Schulwissen oder Schulweisheiten, Erfahrung zahlt sich da echt aus
Rene, you can not say that, slow brushen / fast brushen, in some work you have to stay with it, otherwise you lose the thread, such meanders are something, better really pull through, if you start again, you change the radii, the course and the whole thing does not look right, but, I also use very fast drying colors, Alclad, Gunze Mr. and Hobby Color, because I go immediately with new colors on it, without school knowledge or school wisdom, experience pays off really
10 April 2018, 15:21
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Thank you Björn and PKMIG21FL for the nice words
but .....
The engines bring new putty fun
10 April 2018, 17:08
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Dann kriegst Du ja bald Grosshandelskonditionen beim Kauf von Spachtelmasse😉
Dass in eins durchziehen wichtig ist, stimmt.👍
Gunze Farben habe ich nicht viele. Aber es werden mehr, die sind echt super!
Mr. Paint ist auch sehr empfehlenswert😉 Stinken nur ziemlich.
10 April 2018, 18:50
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Dann frage in Deiner Apotheke mal nach Ethylazetat, davon ein Näschen ....., da ist Universalverdünner Chanel Nr.5 😄, aber als Kleber gibt es nichts besseres, Ethyazetat verbindet Plastil sofort, das schafft kein Sekundenkleber ..... Aber Gunze hat ja auch die Acrylfarben, auch sehr gut und mit Isoprpanol zu verdünnen, oder aber auch Wasserlöslich
10 April 2018, 20:05
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Die gunze Acryl habe ich ja, und ein paar von den super metallics. Mr Paint ist ein anderer Hersteller, die sind spritzfertig🙂
Oh ja ethylacetat ist fein.
Ich bleibe aber lieber bei tamiya extra thin zum kleben. Oder wenn es superdünn sein muss, MEK.
Der Versatz an den Triebwerksverkleidungen sieht brutal aus 🤔
10 April 2018, 22:37
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Dragon "Normal" 😄 ich klage nicht , ich Spachtel, Fülle und sehe Licht am Ende vom Tunnel 😄
11 April 2018, 04:35
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The real problem areas are done, I think now I can sit back and enjoy the construction
11 April 2018, 11:58
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You smoothed things out nicely Jens. Looks like you're approaching the finish line at a steady pace! 🙂
14 April 2018, 16:27
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Thank you Thank you Björn and Rene
Yes, it's the home straight, some paint, decals and then ....., again Dragon 😄 😄 😄
Ju 88 C-6 Dragon / Revell | Album by Starterset
but not quite as crazy in the paint, the next Ju 88 C6 gets a normal meander.
I have an invitation to an exhibition in Leipzig, in June and I will only be there on Sunday, but by the date then 5 Ju 88 finished and, I hope, presentable
14 April 2018, 16:41
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Wow Jens, what a camo scheme. Extremely good airbrushing, I'm surprised to see so much painting done to the fuselage and wings without the engine nacelles in place and adding them later. Is the fit that good, or are they resin?
14 April 2018, 21:25
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Hello Mates, Thanks for the words 🙂
@ Michael, it works well without spatula, the nasal profile of the wing you have to work a lot, the pictures show it, the engine mounts are okay, but as with any adhesive seam, this also needs some work, but it's really just fine work. Also, the nose got a part of spatula, inside I filled Patafix / Bluetack, so that the antenna supports have a better grip to align and glue exactly.
The colors: the Ju 88 G6 or G1 were delivered in 75/76 Flecktarn, some were then painted in the season still with 81/82, probably as ground camouflage, but it was not uncommon among the late night fighters, the commando Welter (Me 262 B1 / U2) was extensively varnished with 81/82, with the Arado 234 Nachjägern basic warnings are occupied, Meander only fiction, pictures later Ju 88 also show this scheme in very many variations, Meander in 81, Flecktarn in 81/82 variations with black and RLM 76/78, the Ju 88 is in the colors a really exciting and very colorful topic, even early A versions
15 April 2018, 05:08
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my means to show decals as painted
Nobody likes Silvern,
my weapons against this decal effect
Gunze and Alclad clear coat gloss
and the scalpel: D
The carrier film is so thin that you get a result when cutting without any pressure,
take care when loosening the carrier film, depending on the quality of the "knife" or the cut can "hang" something,
because then easily "points" and the carrier is history
15 April 2018, 07:08
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You did a tremendous job on that! 👍 Especially the camo paintwork. 👍👍
18 April 2018, 10:56
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Fantastic result Jens, well done. The camo looks excellent, not sure if I could ever pull that off in 1:72 😄
18 April 2018, 11:12
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Thanks for the nice words to the Ju 88 G10
@ Alec K, which is also in 1: 144 to create, do not worry
it's just lines, really just lines, and once you've found the color, the pressure, and the distance to the model, then you just have the same speed, hang up your hand, guess what you're doing on a small scale, but otherwise, quite simply and really only lines
But each color needs its own preparation, the setting of the gun to the color must fit, also the point from which the color sprays must be determined exactly, for real weapons it says pressure point on the trigger.
An example of mine Me 262 B1 / U1 Revell 1:72, still made with the Revell airbrush and fine nozzle, Hasegawa Me 262 B1 a | Album by Starterset
and do not be afraid of the "what can be", just loose, without thinking of the consequences, work, any mistake can be corrected, it's just paint!
and if there are any questions, my english is not that good 🙁 , but of course i try to answer all the questions 🙂 🙂 🙂
18 April 2018, 11:28
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100% freehand airbrush, except at the cockpit, so fine and safe lines and angles can not even be achieved with an IWATA HP with 0.2 nozzle 😄 😄 😄
18 April 2018, 11:40
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Thanks Markus, it is the late Night fighter pattern , from the Ju 88 G1 / 6 to admire a lot, unfortunately, there was no more in the night hunting, Sprittmangel and the need in the Mistelprogram, the few long Ju 88 G consumed ... ,
18 April 2018, 11:49
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Thanks Spanjaard for the compliment, who knows your work knows how high such words are appreciated, Thank you 🙂
18 April 2018, 12:25
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Curses and putty seem to result in beautiful models.😉
Great job Jens! 👍
18 April 2018, 15:48
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Danke Rene , Kaffee und kleine Pausen machen die Arbeit gelegentlich auch einfach und erträglich 😉 , manchmal braucht man einfach eine Pause, dann fluppt das wieder wie von selbst 😉
Thanks Rene, coffee and small breaks make the work occasionally easy and bearable 😉, sometimes you just need a break, then flew back as if by itself 😉
18 April 2018, 16:35
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Hello Jens, and thank you for encouragement. Not sure if I have the courage to just "let loose", as mistakes at this stage in the build are not easy to fix (at least that is my paradigm, but I could be wrong😉 ). I will definitely reference your work and recommendations when I attempt the late-war scribble camo: I do have several Luftwaffe bombers and night fighters on my project list. Again, just wonderful work 👍 👍 👍
18 April 2018, 21:08
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Great scott batman, that's one cracking camo scheme you have achieved there Jens. You've managed to tame another Dragon, I had to put mine away as the left wing was warped and my head wasn't in the right place to deal with it right now. Plus the cockpit is so confusing with all the P.E they give you in the box. Well done on another success.👍👍👍
18 April 2018, 21:36
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Thank you Thank you Thank you for the comments and the compliments, you make me really embarrassed, it's just color and it's just strokes, really just dashes
@Alec K I rarely speak, but it can be fixed / repaired without problems, at least in the meander in the form as on the Ju,
also see Wellenmäander like the Ju 88 A4 and A17, or colors like on the He 219 allow to mend.
One should think of the painter's work on the original, range of the arms, brush or airbrush, wear and tear, and even repairs,
something goes wrong, then cover the lines and make the field new.
on my Ju 88 G10, I have, in flight direction right, 5 or 6 times restarted, the rudders are made individually, between the engine and antennas are also many improvements, I had run the clearcoat on the surface, not only dripping, really thick, so let it dry, clean lines and wet sand, then again paint the layers again. Once the color and gun are set, you always work the same.
I recommend cola cans, beer cans, butter or quark mugs and glass, smooth surfaces, so that the hand is sensitive to very fine work, you learn quickly to play with the pressure, and noticed as fast as you can keep the distance to the surface. ...
19 April 2018, 03:36
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Oh don't worry, I'm not beat yet, just knocked over, I can assure you I am getting bher back on my bench. I plan to swap the wing with another Ju88 and worry about the warped issue later, but this is still going ahead. I should finish my Bf 109e today.
19 April 2018, 06:14
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what am I glad for you that it is not the big catastrophe,
since I rely on ICM and Eduard at the Bf 109, I like to see what you will show us 👍 on the Ju 88 I will of course wait patiently 😉
By the way, a colleague is bending the etched parts for the Ju 188 E, he wants me to try it too, the bomber with BMW engines, I would like, because it would be a paint job as desired, but at the moment I can no longer spatula smell
19 April 2018, 06:32
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Yes, I too have the Ju188E sitting beside my bench, it to as been started I should get some pics up soon.
19 April 2018, 08:29
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I'll write you when I start the E 😉 ( PN ), I like to motivate you to finish it 😉
but I am also inspired by the accessories of AIMS, should I ... or would the wait spoil the fun ??
19 April 2018, 08:41
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She really looks great Jens! I like this camo very much and I bow to your master work with the airbrush
22 April 2018, 09:30
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Thank you Thomas, from you such words honors me immensely and it makes me happy if the Ju so like
Danke Thomas, von Dir solche Worte ehrt mich ungemein und es freut mich wenn die Ju so gefällt 🙂
22 April 2018, 15:42
Album info
Dragon, spatula, curses, a lot of work and also fun and always accompanied by music
cjxx.streamon.fm/?rp..ountry&rpSrp=4.0 👍 🙂