1:72 Typhoon 1B

Mark Norfolk
So so far, so so. Got the wings on OK and then moved to the undercarriage. The prop has gone reasonably well so far - spins when you blow at it! 🙂 The undercarriage though, was a lesson. First I got the struts off the sprue and then with one tried to clean up the really narrow part - snapped that. So I decided to glue that in place in two parts but - I since realise - was wrong to glue that one first, as when I put the still whole second one in place they turned out not to line up. So two lessons - don't try cleaning tiny parts too much (especially when in reasonable nick and the joint would be hidden) and if it does go wrong, go with the unbroken part first to have a guide as to what lines up how. In hindsight it didn't need much cleaning - I have invested in some cutters for that. I've also learnt about painting: the cockpit I did before I knew about thinning paint and not painting from the pot. The prop was done - certainly the last coat - with thinned paint and I can really see the difference. I've also now invested in some Tamiya liquid cement: the humbrol poly holds very well but the brush is brutal and I can't bring myself to use a paint brush as they're all new and decent quality. I've some old ones somewhere - but can I find them?! All constructive criticism gratefully received - first kit in quite a while.

Dave Flitton
Which kit is this?

Mark Norfolk
Airfix 1:72 Typhoon 1B

Mark Norfolk
Watched Plasmo build this on you tube today. Very impressive: good few lessons for me in that video. Especially around building sub assemblies versus on sprue painting, detail extras and finishing, utilising washes and masking. Some of these things have an airbrush focus perhaps but I think they may be equally relevant for brushes. Done my filling now and sanded back to a degree: waiting for a finer grade to finish. Can I ask if people typically polish their models and if so how? (Pre-painting this is)

Patrick Hagelstein
After 20 years that prop looks awesome! Let's put it differently: that prop looks awesome! 🙂 Yep, that learning curve is a ..... right? 😉 Still, I think the gear legs came out well. I can see they aren't lined up perfectly but still. If you are brave enough, you can soften the crooked one with that new Tamiya glue and gently try it to pry into place. About that polishing question, Airfix has a rather grainy type of plastic which will benefit from sanding with 2000 or 3000 grit sandpaper. Any coarser will result in scratches in that rather soft plastic. Other brands have harder and more shiny plastic which don't need any additional sanding or polishing. On the how part: gentle and patiently. 😉 Thinning your paint will add more refinement to the overall appearance than polishing though, so I wouldn't be that worried about it yet. Don't build that perfect Typhoon just yet, instead build that perfect learning object. 😉

Mark Norfolk
Thank you Patrick - one for the comment about the prop and especially for the sanding tip. I'm tempted to try your suggested landing gear correction too - it's already wonky so what is there to lose from a fix?! (Probably a lot but...! 🙂 ) It might also help correct the fact that the landing gear cover on that side isn't tight against the wing. But lining up the gear is the priority.

Mark Norfolk
I really like your 'build the perfect learning object' 🙂

Patrick Hagelstein
🙂 👍

Mark Norfolk
I followed your tip for adjusting the crooked landing gear last night Patrick - worked a treat. Not quite 100% in line perhaps but I'm really pleased with the improvement over where it was. Plus the landing gear cover came off and I had to refix that so that too is better positioned. 🙂 all round! (Image 4 is the result)

Fernando Saenz
Hi Mark!! looks good... this is my principal reference... alamy.com/stock-phot..-d-day-71687778.html

Mark Norfolk
Very nice reference painting Fernando! Looks like the artist almost had the modeller in mind! 🙂

Patrick Hagelstein
Nice! Even from this angled picture it sure looks squared up now! 👍

Mark Norfolk
So primed with two coats of matt white enamel (thin!) and then a similar layer of humbrol 165 on the underside. Thought that one was a bit thin and smelly so next coat moved away from what was roughly a 50:50 mix to one perhaps 75:25 in favour of paint. Coverage is excellent but there are some pretty visible brush strokes - up close anyway. Think I will smooth off with a polishing stick and apply a thin layer again across the grain so to speak, before a final thin layer with the grain: see whether I should have stuck with the thin coats...

Mark Norfolk
The painting has highlighted a pretty significant step remaining just aft of the wings, mostly on the left. Something to bear in mind with future builds - all a bit tight round there now to sort that one now. It didn't seem significant before the paint went on...!

Patrick Hagelstein
Yep... That's the benefit and drawback of painting. All that shiny plastic that looks so good at first glance, kicks you in the face once a layer of paint reveals all those (little) blemishes. That's why a lot of people first hit a model with a sprayed on (airbrush or spray can) coat of primer. Primer has the benefit of filling small imperfections without obliterating fine details. (Don't ask me how it works, just enjoy the wonder unfolding. 😉 ) Seeing that you are painting with Humbrol enamels, thinning the paint has been a good step! But then you have to wait.... Enamel cures relatively slowly and levels out after a while eliminating some of those brush marks. By going back after a while (maybe even some days) the first layer is cured enough to not be that effected by the second coat. The positive thing that second thinned coat does is ever so slightly interact with the previous coat and help leveling out the two coats. Luckily you discovered this on the bottom side, you still have a whole top side to experiment! 🙂

Mark Norfolk
I'll see how it looks in the morning, but I do wonder if I went too thick too soon: we'll see! I do have a can of spray primer but I'd added too much plastic (wheel struts and covers) before I got it & too much to benefit: one of the major lessons from all you far more experienced modellers is the staged approach you adopt. As someone advised me and as you too hint at Patrick - a learning experience. Thanks for your tips and feedback - they are much appreciated. 🙂

Patrick Hagelstein
👍

Mark Norfolk
Coming on, but lots more painting practice required I think - looks OK in real life but the photographs really show up the imperfections! Am finding minimal thinning seems best with the Humbrol colours, if any at all in some cases. Still, reasonably happy with progress so far. I'd heard of a tip for dipping the clear cockpit into gloss varnish to make it look like glass. Initially looked like a disaster as there was a 'wave' in the coating and I had to brush it out. It's OK but possibly masked the cockpit too soon after - has damaged the coating on a part of the large 'glass' area. The front glass hasn't fit brilliantly: overall it's slightly small. Still plenty to do - may daughter is into art and tells me the varnishes and coats should 'take out' many of the brush marks / imperfections. We'll see! I'm going to use decals for the invasion stripes though. Perhaps if I'd done it wheels up I'd have painted but not wheels down at this stage!

Mark Norfolk
Almost ruined this model with second gloss varnish coat on underside of wings. Obviously put too much on and it created a few 'waves' as it dried. Aaahhh! Managed to and back with a very fine grade: is a bit damaged in a couple of spots but will have to live with it. Lesson firmly learned. Some of the model is beautifully smooth, some...!!! I'll be very careful with the topside. Patience!!

Patrick Hagelstein
😄 Patience is the word!

Patrick Hagelstein
Your daughter is right about the varnish, it will level out by itself. What I tend to use for canopies is Future Floor Polish, an acrylic floor sealer. Because of it's self leveling abilities it will fill in microscopic scuffs and leave a very shiny and durable finish. Take the part at an inconspicuous corner with a set of tweezers and submerge the part in the Future. Let it drip off and very subtly let that 'last' drop flow onto a piece of kitchen towel. Then rest the part on some cocktail sticks or something that doesn't contact the part too much, put some cover over it to protect it from dust and then....let it sit for a day at least. Then you have a durable and shiny canopy that you can mask and paint. 🙂

Patrick Hagelstein
That Future can also be used to brush onto your model but, as you already noticed, you have to be very aware of drips and runs. Less is more... 😉

Mark Norfolk
Thanks Patrick - found the Future and added to my amazon wish list! I will take particular note of your technique tip whether I use the Humbrol varnish or others. :-| I do also need to find a better way of covering my models while they dry, but that shouldn't be too tricky - an old shoe box or something will do.

Patrick Hagelstein
It's just as easy as that! A shoe box, a Tupperware container, a bowl or something like that will suffice. It doesn't need to be airtight, it just needs to protect the drying paint from dust specs.

Mark Norfolk
Gloss coat and decals done. Despite reputation, the Humbrol decalfix seems to be sucking the decals quite close. The only point of 'failure' is the Z on the flank, near its base where there is a lump on the fuselage - had to make a couple of cuts there to maximise conformity, but still dragging that in OK over time. I've not bothered with all the tiny 'warning' decals. Taking the easy way out on this first build! Now to let them dry, gloss coat again and then pin wash. (I've already done a little of that on the prop). I also gave up with the yellow leading edge decals. I am pondering painting those on - so perhaps gloss coat to fix the decals, some masking and a little painting, then gloss coat, pin wash, gloss coat, weather, matt coat. One day it'll be finished!! Any tips pointing me in a wiser direction - feel free.

Mark Norfolk
..and the rockets to glue on too.

Patrick Hagelstein
You're doing a great job! 👍 Nothing I could add at the moment.... 🙂

Mark Norfolk
Thanks Patrick - that's very kind. 🙂. Have gotten out of order though: in my enthusiasm I've done the pin wash before the masked leading edges! Doh! Still, just swap it round - but may have to reweather the leading edges. Learning job this one! (Knowing me won't be the last time things get swopped though!)

Patrick Hagelstein
Enthusiasm is good though! 😄 👍

Mark Norfolk
So, I'm done - no more weathering ior anything for me now. Just the matt coat. About which I am very nervous. I've got a can of humbrol matt enamel varnish. I know from the mosquito cockpit ti really flattens everything down, but what if I...? Any tips? I'm guessing quick, distant 'strokes', keep them thin, don't overdo it, if you need to do another coat.???

Patrick Hagelstein
Looks good! 👍

Mark Norfolk
So, matt coat done and pretty pleased with how its turned out. Took a couple of coats on the darker upper surfaces, the underside went very easily. Fair play to Humbrol - their matt enamel varnish seems like a decent product. With all the available tips, videos and other online resources and help from everyone here, have done a very different building job than anything I did when I was younger and happy with the outcome. I'll leave it overnight to dry properly and then have a good hard look at it and think about what I could do better next time. 🙂

Patrick Hagelstein
There you go! Your 'first' quality model! 👍 Well done! I guess you learned a lot and hopefully you also had a lot of fun while learning. This turned out really well! 🙂

Mark Norfolk
Thanks Patrick. It is great fun (generally! Some frustrations). Plenty of learning and no doubt more to realise! So glad I got back to this hobby! 🙂

Dave Flitton
Excellent results!!!!

Mark Norfolk
Thanks Dave and Roland - much appreciated. 🙂 My day was further made today when I was in Hobbycraft buying a tin of paint and a young lad of perhaps 11 or 12 was buying what looked like his first model kit. Marvellous! I hope he finds this site too. It's marvellous!

Alec K
Nice work, and welcome back to the hobby mate 👍

Stephan Ryll
Very nice build 👍

Guy Rump
Nice build 🙂

Mark Norfolk
Thanks Alec, Stephan and Guy - had a long hard look at i this morning after 24 hours and this is what I have learnt / will try next time:

Dry fit lots - that cockpit is all wrong
Fill and sand fuselage before adding wings
Don't be scared of filler
Use a proper primer
Plan your stage builds
Varnish coats work
But fewer initial gloss coats - 2 max
Use multiple wash coats - little pigment in them
Care with gloss on glass - follow Patrick's tips
Masking rocks
Save minor parts to the end - they get busted otherwise!
Actually I like enamel paint
But thin it lightly, not a lot
Decent brushes matter - AK looking good.

Carrying these forward to the Mosquito hopefully - today have had to do battle with the cockpit glass already!

Cristian Bordina
Great job Mark !!!

Gordon Sørensen
Nice lookung Typhoon, Mark!

Patrick Hagelstein
I like the "follow Patrick's tips" part! 😄 😉

Mark Norfolk
Done it Patrick - worked a treat on my mosquito cockpit glass! 🙂

Patrick Hagelstein
Nice!!! 👍