Nyhetsstrøm
Lance Glowacki
ønsker
ønsker
B-239 Buffalo & Messerschmitt Bf109G-6 `Juutilainen´ w/Figure
Hasegawa 1:72
02439 2023 Nye deler Flertema (3)9 November, 14:51
Thomas S.
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25 30 October, 17:11
Snake Plissken
I stand with Alexander Grivonev. Red Ferraris make me yawn but I am a sucker for a fine metallic paint ❤️️
I stand with Alexander Grivonev. Red Ferraris make me yawn but I am a sucker for a fine metallic paint ❤️️
1 November, 14:04
David Goodchild
Really superb, always been a fan of the BB, and you've done an incredible job of this one!
Really superb, always been a fan of the BB, and you've done an incredible job of this one!
5 November, 15:46
Rigaud Luc
eier nå
eier nå
Air Racing
Laird LC-DW-300 "Solution" The Laird speedwing Solution Dekno Models 1:72
AR. 720800 2012 New tool 9 November, 14:48
Rigaud Luc
eier nå
eier nå
Junkers A.50ce Junior "Kiek in die Welt" - Berlin-Tokyo raid 1931
Dekno Models 1:72
AR.721501 2023 Nye deler 9 November, 14:45
Treehugger
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3 bilder
Trumpeter's HMS Naiad in 1:350 scaleNy: 9 November, 10:24 1:350
Don't want to buy unseen water color paper online. Can't find reasonably priced A2 water color paper.
I'll try this alu ...
5 7 November, 12:31
Treehugger
I already have so many work-in-progress stuff going on, but I need to finish this smaller project to get to try out making custom railings with wire and styrene, instead of doing that on that other heavy cruiser build from before with the USS Guam. Re. the Guam kit, to try re-work all that photo etch railings was a big mistake, just too much work and probably much harder to align than individual pins togehter with wiring for the deck railing.
The 3d printed turrets w. barrels really look nice, however I also have metal barrels in stock. I will try drilling out just a couple of mm's deeper and see if that works out, if it fails I will have to cut off the resin barrels and add the metal barrels. If I end up using the metal barrels, I must remember to make a "jig" to get the barrel alignment as good as possible without the barrels looking weird "not looking straight".
Hmm, maybe the ship ought to be less angled in the photo there? Not parallel with the "white" edges, but not as angled as this I think. Thinking about this now, I think an "angled" ship is all wrong with the mood of the still water, and I will straighten the model a little to avoid the obvious diagonal angle of the hull there in photo #01.
Not sure if I have larger "isopor" material around, will have to look. I just thought, this might work ok, to draw attention to the model itself, and not end up with a large ocean surface acting as a frame.
A photographer once wrote: "Frame what you love" I think what he meant was, to not add other things into the frame other than the stuff you like/love. A "closer framing" I think is also more "intimate and works better, and also makes the model seem taller as opposed to flat.
Hm, I forgot to think about maaaybe having additional models in the ocean. I do have a tug boat of the same era, I could use that. 🙂
I already have so many work-in-progress stuff going on, but I need to finish this smaller project to get to try out making custom railings with wire and styrene, instead of doing that on that other heavy cruiser build from before with the USS Guam. Re. the Guam kit, to try re-work all that photo etch railings was a big mistake, just too much work and probably much harder to align than individual pins togehter with wiring for the deck railing.
The 3d printed turrets w. barrels really look nice, however I also have metal barrels in stock. I will try drilling out just a couple of mm's deeper and see if that works out, if it fails I will have to cut off the resin barrels and add the metal barrels. If I end up using the metal barrels, I must remember to make a "jig" to get the barrel alignment as good as possible without the barrels looking weird "not looking straight".
Hmm, maybe the ship ought to be less angled in the photo there? Not parallel with the "white" edges, but not as angled as this I think. Thinking about this now, I think an "angled" ship is all wrong with the mood of the still water, and I will straighten the model a little to avoid the obvious diagonal angle of the hull there in photo #01.
Not sure if I have larger "isopor" material around, will have to look. I just thought, this might work ok, to draw attention to the model itself, and not end up with a large ocean surface acting as a frame.
A photographer once wrote: "Frame what you love" I think what he meant was, to not add other things into the frame other than the stuff you like/love. A "closer framing" I think is also more "intimate and works better, and also makes the model seem taller as opposed to flat.
Hm, I forgot to think about maaaybe having additional models in the ocean. I do have a tug boat of the same era, I could use that. 🙂
7 November, 12:35
Matti Thomaes
Interesting technique, following with interest. I also used aluminium foil when I made the seascape for my Tashkent, Soviet destroyer, but the way you are doing it is new to me.
Interesting technique, following with interest. I also used aluminium foil when I made the seascape for my Tashkent, Soviet destroyer, but the way you are doing it is new to me.
9 November, 13:36
Treehugger
Not sure what to expect. A danger here is the foil is so mallable, any accidental denting has to be smoothened out. Should "stabilize" after a few layers of paint and goo hopefully. Hm, if I keep adding goo on top, the goo will flatten and work the opposite way of shaping waves. Might have to just create a glaze close to the foil surface and not fill up with gransparent goo.
Although I have this "isopor" plate ready, I might add black cardboard ontop, as a base for the foil, then add paint on top of that and hopefully some water goo. Probably not a good idea adding too much transparent goo on top of this alu foil as it might look weird perhaps when the foil isn't at the very top of the surface anymore if adding too much transparent goo, unsure.
In computer 3d modeling, there are tools for modeling realistic water waves, but that is too complicated for physical models, unless somehow one starts carving out large waves, then smaller waves and ever smaller waves again, and somehow end up with a nice looking result. Ofc, here there just wouldn't be big waves at all, just smaller waves that slosh around, which is what the steel ball is for.
Not sure what to expect. A danger here is the foil is so mallable, any accidental denting has to be smoothened out. Should "stabilize" after a few layers of paint and goo hopefully. Hm, if I keep adding goo on top, the goo will flatten and work the opposite way of shaping waves. Might have to just create a glaze close to the foil surface and not fill up with gransparent goo.
Although I have this "isopor" plate ready, I might add black cardboard ontop, as a base for the foil, then add paint on top of that and hopefully some water goo. Probably not a good idea adding too much transparent goo on top of this alu foil as it might look weird perhaps when the foil isn't at the very top of the surface anymore if adding too much transparent goo, unsure.
In computer 3d modeling, there are tools for modeling realistic water waves, but that is too complicated for physical models, unless somehow one starts carving out large waves, then smaller waves and ever smaller waves again, and somehow end up with a nice looking result. Ofc, here there just wouldn't be big waves at all, just smaller waves that slosh around, which is what the steel ball is for.
9 November, 13:51
Steven Van Dyck
Nice project. I once used alufoil too for a 1/700 dio, Operation Torch | Project by StevenVD (1:700) . I found out that if I covered it in Stillwater, I could use water paints on that. But the end result remained quite metallic.
I've read books that described placing ships oblique in a frame as an error, trapping the ship in an undersized frame, so do this only if there is ample space for the bow.
Nice project. I once used alufoil too for a 1/700 dio, Operation Torch | Project by StevenVD (1:700) . I found out that if I covered it in Stillwater, I could use water paints on that. But the end result remained quite metallic.
I've read books that described placing ships oblique in a frame as an error, trapping the ship in an undersized frame, so do this only if there is ample space for the bow.
9 November, 14:43
MS K
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125 bilder
[Revell] Ford GT LM 2017 - WIPNy: 9 November, 14:42 1:24
And I also drilled a hole in the front.
Prosjekt: [Revell] Ford GT Le Mans 2017
44 17 October, 16:21
Gerald Sigmund
@mks: Komakais Walkaround shows meshes for the left and right intakes and none for the center one.
@mks: Komakais Walkaround shows meshes for the left and right intakes and none for the center one.
18 October, 14:10
Bozzer
I have no idea of your subject, but I do enjoy your builds. The tutorial is always a lesson, and very informative. Keep them coming 👍
I have no idea of your subject, but I do enjoy your builds. The tutorial is always a lesson, and very informative. Keep them coming 👍
18 October, 22:02
Michael Kohl
Martin and Bozzer pointed it out. This will be fun and informative to follow.
Martin and Bozzer pointed it out. This will be fun and informative to follow.
21 October, 07:35
Matteo Pescarin
Oh wow, as usual, fantastic documentation of the efforts going into this project. Chapeau to you!
Nonetheless, it makes me want to skip any Revell kit from now on... if I only didn't have any in my stash XD
Oh wow, as usual, fantastic documentation of the efforts going into this project. Chapeau to you!
Nonetheless, it makes me want to skip any Revell kit from now on... if I only didn't have any in my stash XD
21 October, 07:53
MS K
@Matteo - The new mold products produced since around 2010 are generally nice quality(2CV, VW T1, 911G, Etc...) , but this product is so poorly made that it is ridiculous. I don't know what the production concept of this kit is. It is poor for a precision model, and it's not even easy to assemble.
@Matteo - The new mold products produced since around 2010 are generally nice quality(2CV, VW T1, 911G, Etc...) , but this product is so poorly made that it is ridiculous. I don't know what the production concept of this kit is. It is poor for a precision model, and it's not even easy to assemble.
21 October, 08:48
Michael Kohl
With Revell you better check in advance how that specific kit is rated by others. They have tons of reboxes and quite a few kits where you just wanna ask: are you serious? But then, once in a while, just to show that they are able - in general - to be a serious modelling company, they release some really fine stuff. Doesn't hurt to be prepared what you're up against.
With Revell you better check in advance how that specific kit is rated by others. They have tons of reboxes and quite a few kits where you just wanna ask: are you serious? But then, once in a while, just to show that they are able - in general - to be a serious modelling company, they release some really fine stuff. Doesn't hurt to be prepared what you're up against.
21 October, 08:50
Alexander Grivonev
A true Revell car kit experience 👍 The casted on wiper is especially painful
A true Revell car kit experience 👍 The casted on wiper is especially painful
21 October, 09:25
Michael Kohl
That diffusor is a tremendous improvement.
amazon.com/dp/B00004..aps%2C163&sr=8-3
Such a tool makes such work as fitting the diffusor panels to the chassis much easier (the thinner the needles/pins, the more precise the contour).
Just a german site to give an idea.
Cheers Michael
That diffusor is a tremendous improvement.
amazon.com/dp/B00004..aps%2C163&sr=8-3
Such a tool makes such work as fitting the diffusor panels to the chassis much easier (the thinner the needles/pins, the more precise the contour).
Just a german site to give an idea.
Cheers Michael
21 October, 15:04
MS K
Nice idea. I wish there was something made of insect pins thin enough to use in a plamodel.
Nice idea. I wish there was something made of insect pins thin enough to use in a plamodel.
21 October, 15:52
MS K
@berni - The red is Italian Red, and I plan to use Cobalt Blue + Sky Blue (the instructions say to mix Ultramarine and Blue).
@berni - The red is Italian Red, and I plan to use Cobalt Blue + Sky Blue (the instructions say to mix Ultramarine and Blue).
22 October, 14:09
Denis Dogadov
I make up the silkscreen on the glass with a very thinly sliced masking tape.
[img1]
[img2]
I make up the silkscreen on the glass with a very thinly sliced masking tape.
[img1]
[img2]
24 October, 15:32
MS K
@Denis - Yeah, I used to do it that way too, before I started using masking film.
My advice is that when masking that way, 'Tamiya masking tape for curves' is much easier than paper tape.
Youtube Video
@Denis - Yeah, I used to do it that way too, before I started using masking film.
My advice is that when masking that way, 'Tamiya masking tape for curves' is much easier than paper tape.
Youtube Video
25 October, 19:17
Spanjaard
wow, your attention to detail and how detail your build logs are, never disappoint! amazing
wow, your attention to detail and how detail your build logs are, never disappoint! amazing
8 November, 11:59
Kesa Tiho
This album is a perfect way to round up why revells models are subpar, why modeling is a great hobby and the lengths humans will go to to achieve perfection. Great progress my guy.
This album is a perfect way to round up why revells models are subpar, why modeling is a great hobby and the lengths humans will go to to achieve perfection. Great progress my guy.
9 November, 13:50
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