Nyhetsstrøm

Neuling
Good teamwork!

Danny Ray
This looks fantastic. I'm a bit jealous because I'm planning a build with a Sherman III (in British terms), Crusaders and Stuart's, Matilda's, etc (though maybe not all at once. I don't think 2nd El Alamein had ALL allied tanks fighting, from every era?)
Anyway, the build is for a tribute to my old grandad who co-drove Crusaders and Shermans. His unit was 10th Royal Hussars and if you see the markings and paint schemes they used, it's the most plain out of them all. No camo whatsoever. Also, rather than the yellow tinged sand/stone colour used by most, they used a brown (think it's RAL8000).
In order to be accurate I'll do it in the correct colours but I'd have liked to camo it up!
(By the way I'm very much a novice and it'll take me a long time to attempt this. I have over 40 kits to practice on though 😳😍😁🤓😂)

Scott Dutton
Don't worry about being a novice, just enjoy what you do, that way you improve

Danny Ray
Good advice Scott. Can you remember who made this kit? I'm having trouble deciding which one to go for. I'm contemplating plastic individual track links and using 0.2mm wire cut down as pins (no glue), so I guess that limits my choice? (By the way and I bet you get this a LOT. Isn't Dutton the name that Kevin Costner's family have in the show Yellowstone?. You ain't a Montana cattle baron, are you? 😃).

Danny Ray
Sorry. I saw the kit. It's a Dragon 6573. It doesn't have the correct Markings for my grandads memorial (10th Hussars, 2nd arm brig, 1st arm div) but they are available after market. I got some already actually from eBay. I don't suppose anyone here would know off the top of their heads if this type of Sherman fought at 2nd Alamein battle? It gets a bit confusing because Sherman III's were known as Sherman II's by the Brits. So I'm led to believe?

Danny Ray
Sorry for all the questions Scott but the aerials and pennants some use (like the 2 here), are they part of the kit or do you buy those separately? I've never seen them in any kit.

Jakko ‌
Aerials are easy to make from metal wire. I prefer 0.3 mm spring steel myself, which you can buy from model shops that cater to people who scratchbuild working models in metal, like those making ships, trains, steam engines, etc. The advantage of spring steel is that it will curve but not bend if you accidentally hit it, unlike brass or copper wire. Do use cutters suitable for it, though — it will ruin ones that aren't strong enough. Then just drill a hole slightly larger than the wire, as deep as you can, and superglue it in.

For the tracks, the MiniArt T41 or WE210 sets are probably the easiest choice if you want plastic ones. Slightly tricky to build, but not actually bad once you get the hang of it (and make a simple jig from some bits of wood). Stay away from Bronco, they will drive you crazy 🙁

T41 WORKABLE TRACK LINK SET (MiniArt 35322, 1:35)
WE210 Workable Track Link Set (MiniArt 35323, 1:35)

Danny Ray
Thanks Jakko. That's typical, I've just ordered some 0.3mm enamelled copper wire that I was planning on using as track link pins instead of the flimsy plastic ones that come with (I just bought a border models Crusader III for a planned memorial for my grandad, a co-driver on crusaders and shermans in 10th hussars in N Africa and Italy) a recent kit. These are the tracks I meant. Also as part of the memorial I was planning on getting a Dragon 6447 (the El Alamein one with magic tracks). They both employ these ridiculous plastic pins that are so thin they immediately bend , even if you manage to get them off the sprue intact! lol

Danny Ray
By the way Jakko. Can you buy the small penants they seemed to use so often in North Africa? I don't think I've seen them used elsewhere but they seemed to be everywhere in NA.

Danny Ray
Thing is, I'm a very, very green modeller. Built a few as a kid but only on my 4th build as an adult. The expensive Miniart and Border and Dragon kits will be done at a much later date once I've made lots of mistakes on cheaper ones. Also I'm still trying to get to terms with the airbrush I bought. Think I've bent the needle slightly already. I'm not the most practical person going but I really want to do a good job on this memorial build I'm planning with his medals and cap badges. His badges include one that has a WW1 male tank and the words "fear naught". They are great.

Jakko ‌
You could use the copper wire for aerials, too — just be careful you don't bend it. (OTOH, copper wire is also fairly easy to straighten if you do bend it 🙂)

As for the pennants, they were mainly a North Africa thing, AFAIK. They're easy enough to make yourself. Cut one from, say, aluminium kitchen foil, slightly longer than you need it to be. Wrap that extra length around the aerial, superglue it in place, and paint the pennant. (Best do this before adding the aerial to the model, though, as it will be much easier.)

For a Sherman kit, I would recommend the Asuka Sherman III over the Dragon one, really. I just don't like the way the Dragon Shermans go together, or the coarseness of a lot of their detail, but I do like the Asuka ones 🙂 Only thing is that this kit has the later style of suspension with the return rollers behind the bogies, unlike Scott's model, which has them on the top. If you've got photos of your grandfather's tank, though, you can probably check which kind his had.

Sherman III (ASUKA Model 35-017, 1:35)

Scott Dutton
Danny, Go the Asuka kit, much nicer.
Decals were from left overs and some aircraft ones and home made

Danny Ray
Thanks fellas. I think that sherman III was available during 2nd battle of el alamein. We brits called sherman III's sherman II's, i think. Unfortunately all photos of my grandads war were lost back in 1993. Im so glad i didnt buy tge dragon kit last night. Came very close!
Gonna get this today. Thank you both so much for your advice. Do you mind if i ask you both the odd question from time to time? Maybe i can add you both as 'scalemates'? 🙂

Danny Ray
By the way I think I already said but I already have some Sherman decals that were on a 10th hussars tank in NA and that was a major reason I was choosing the dragon kit, cos it has 10th hussars decals but it isn't a deal breaker cos I have them. They are a white rhino on a black pill shape and a white '67' on a red square and a blue circle with a '2' inside 🙂

Jakko ‌
Feel free to add me as a mate, and/or PM me if you want to ask a question you think I might have an answer to 🙂

The British didn't call the Sherman II a Sherman III — they called the "Medium Tank, M4" the "Sherman" because all the M-numbers were confusing, and then numbered them as follows: M4 = Sherman I, M4A1 = Sherman II, M4A2 = Sherman III, M4A3 = Sherman IV, M4A4 = Sherman V. At the second battle of El Alamein, the British Army had only the Sherman II and III in service. For the II, your best option is Sherman II (ASUKA Model 35-014, 1:35) as it's the correct very early type, with the early bogies (like on Scott's Sherman III) and the direct vision flaps in front of the drivers' hatches. For the Sherman III, use the kit I linked to earlier, but you will need to replace the bogies by M4 Sherman “VVSS” Suspen..t (ASUKA Model 35-L15, 1:35) which is hard to get unless you order direct from Asuka: tasca-shop.ocnk.net/product/480

Danny Ray
Jakko forgive me but why would I need to replace the bogies? I thought you said the Brits had Sherman III's at 2nd Alamein?
As an aside (and could possibly excuse my needing to replace them) he did go on to operate Shermans when the 10th Hussars were eventually redeployed to Italy). Though, it'd be a big diorama if it incorporated Libya and Italy! lol

I guess I could have a crusader for his earlier career and the Sherman III for the later career but If I'm honest, I'd prefer to make it accurate all to North Africa. Sorry if I seem a bit dim with the questions. Also I'll friend request you so I don't keep sabotaging Mr Dutton's thread! 🙂

Jakko ‌
Ah, yes, I didn't explain the bogies that well 🙂 Early Shermans had bogies with the return roller on top, which was the same model of bogie as used on the M3, AKA Lee/Grant. From late 1942 or so, though, the factories switched to the type with the return roller behind the bogie body.

All of the Shermans at El Alamein would have been produced when they still used the earlier type, but the Asuka Sherman III kit has the later style, which is correct for the latter part of the war in North Africa (and Italy), but not for El Alamein. By replacing the bogies, though, it will be. Of course, tanks with the early bogies kept them, so you can also see those in Tunisia or Italy.

Danny Ray
So just to be clear. The British had M4A1 and M4A2 at Alamein (2nd battle)? Which is the American Sherman II and Sherman III? And the kits are listed under the American system? So a Sherman III is an M4 A2? Which were there? Due to not knowing which type my grandfather was in, either an A1 or A2 type is ok. What is the DVSS suspension issue with the M4A2 type? Sorry if my questions are making your eyes roll? 😂

Jakko ‌
As one of my physics teachers in school used to say, "There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers" 🙂

But yes, you're correct: British Shermans at the second battle of El Alamein were mostly M4A1s (which the British called Sherman Mk. II) and some M4A2s (which they called Sherman Mk. III). To go from American to British designation, basically just take the American A-number, add 1, and make it Roman: M4A1 becomes II, for example. This applies to Shermans only, BTW!

The issue with the VVSS in the Asuka Mk. III kit is that it has the return roller behind the bogie, not on top of it. Take a look at the.shadock.free.fr/..vvss_suspension.html for more than you probably ever wanted to know about Sherman VVSS 🙂

Scott Dutton
By coincidence, picked up that suspension set at swap meet on Sunday. AUD$15

Danny, easy way to remember British Designation. Add 1 to the US designation. M4 is effectively M$(AO) hence 0+1 = Sherman 1. M4A4 (A4+1 = 5) Sherman V you then play around with composites and 17 Pdr versions (Add a C). Work backwards Sherman II is therefore M4A1, the cast hull version

Id love to find a aftermarket HVSS (E* set). Noone seems to do a M4A1 76mm with E8 suspension (Except Tamiya which is an DF one and it has different back deck)
That .fr site is magnificent

Christoph Kunz
Watching with interesst.
I've done one landing gear yesterday, very fiddly.

J35J
I'm in. Following👍🏻

Jakub Biganovsky
I am wondering how landing gear subassembly will fit; it will be next step.

Cuajete
Well done so far. Following!

Finn
I'm in

Łukasz Gliński
Joining the party

Robert Podkoński
Taking a seat.

Nicolas
Joining the fun.

J35J
The kit looks more "build friendly" than the DH88 Mikromir kit 1:48.
Looking forward to see the final result 👍🏻

Jakub Biganovsky
Yep, Clear props brough realy high level of plastic kits. They are not same level as Tamyia/Eduard or...., but still very high.
Nice fitting and approximate details make a building friendly. Some small part surfaces keep milling prints due to local missing polishing of mould, but still fine.

Michael Kohl
Following closely your progress as I have an eye on this kit. Nice additions you make and valuable experiences you share.

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Cuajete
Good progress! 👍

Christoph Kunz
Thank you for your detailed buildlog.
I'm staying tuned.

Cuajete
Great (hard) job so far 👍

Kenneth
Following 😳

Michael Kohl
Fit of the wing halfes is a problem indeed (bought the kit in the meantime), but I think you chose the harder route. Sanding/scraping down the contact areas between the upper and lower wing halfes should solve the problem without the need for extensive use of putty afterwards.

Jakub Biganovsky
Michael Kohl, your recommendation could work. But, evidently not in my case.
Although that I thinned both halfs to try to fit them precisely as possible, a micro step was there after glueing halfs togther.
The gap between shorter lower and longer upper half was relatively big.
And the last think is, that lower and upper "profile" did not correspond to each other.

Denis Dogadov
Художественная часть отлично.
Но вот с матчастью плохо,главное это то, что на представленной модели полностью отсутствуют посадочные щитки.
Ну и ещё много по мелочи.
[img1]

Georgy
Спасибо! Да, щитков действительно нет

Skyhiker
Super job. Congratulations.

Guy Rump
Lovely job! 👍

Neuling
Top build! I like the camouflage paintwork.

Denis Dogadov
И ещё забыли бомбоотсеки в мотогондолах-
[img1]
[img2]

Georgy
Класс, я не знал, что такие отсеки в гондолах вообще были, спасибо за инфу, в следующий раз учту

Sergej I
Watching! Top riveting there, looks very exact and well cleaned after 👍

Tony Tonov
Great start, taking a seat 👍

Harald Besold
Impressive start! I'm really looking forward to the following photos.

Neil Patrick
Following. for sure. This looks like it will be epic!

DerMattes
Following 👍

Dave Flitton
Watching!!!!

Romain Sablou
Thank you ! Welcome aboard the Milk Run Special 😉

gorby
Remarkable work so far! Very impressive riveting.

Alec K
Taking a seat in the classroom 👍. What is happening in picture 8?

Живко Джаков
Following

Romain Sablou
Picture 8 : I screw up riveting on the second wing. 😅 I was thinking that doubling the number of rivet lines was a good idea on this part of the wing, turned out it wasn't...
I used Tamiya Surfacer to cover everything and start again

Alberto
Very promising start, I'm in!

Fabien
Wow impressionnant. super beau boulot

Alec K
Thanks for the explanation. I thought maybe you were implementing some hight end stressed skin technique 🙂. Amazing work all around 👍

Guy Rump
Looking great, following. 👍

Romain Sablou
Thanks mates !

Et merci Fabien 🙂

Eric Thornton
+1 following

Guy Rump
Watching. 👍

Thomas Bischoff
watching too 👍

Christoph Kunz
Awesome! 👍
Taking also a seat.

Nicolas
Great work so far, following

Gary Victory
A real pain doing the riveting but so satisfying once it's done. Lovely work Romain.

Romain Sablou
Thank you all for your interest ! This is my first attempt on riveting an all airplane, I wouldn't say it was painful, but rather a looong and sometime tiring job. Overall I really enjoyed the experience and the satisfation when highlighting the rivets with a black wash 👌

Jakub Fiala
Very nice work, so far. Riveting looks perfect 👍 I´ve just ordered a new release of Edugawa F/G Marauder, so i will look for some inspiration here.

Romain Sablou
Thanks ! Yes, this new release of the F/G version is great news for all Marauder fan 👌

Dietmar Bogatzki
Fantastic riveting job and also the wash 👍

Alec K
Outstanding progress 👍

Romain Sablou
Thanks guys, glad to finally paint something after all this preliminary work !

Pietro De Angelis
Impressive work, congrats!

Bernhard Schrock
Great work especially you very exactly riveting job. Chapeau.

Jakub Fiala
Great progress, beautiful details!

Alec K
Superb work all around 👍

Mike Siemers
I'm in, can't wait to see the finished kit. Great job on the interior.

Romain Sablou
Thank you all for following this project 🙂

CaptGPF
Same with others - looking great!

Finn
Following

Tzonglin Wu
It is so incredible. Following.

Spanjaard
my respect for somebody who can do a complete riveting of a plane... and you said it was your first? how, that looks truly amazing! beautiful cockpit too!

Romain Sablou
Thank you all ! Yes first time, pretty happy with the result. I received good advices from my French "Sensei" Julien Haccoun 🙏

Alex Rakhimgulov
Outstanding project!

Dave
Beautiful details, this is looking amazing

Robert Podkoński
Looks awesome already! Keep it up, Romain!

Gary Victory
Totally echo Roberts's comments. Awesome work so far on this build Romain.

Christoph Kunz
👍 👍 👍

skyfox22
wow that's amazing how on earth did you get the finish so good

Alec K
Outstanding work on those invasion stripes 👍

Romain Sablou
Many thanks everyone ! It means a lot during this time consuming project. The finish is acheived by cleaning and polishing the model prior to paint stage. Then by using well diluted paint for thin and smooth coats of paint.

Gary Victory
NMF finishes are more work, but so much more rewarding when done. Super metallics for me definitely the metals paints available.

Yury
Why haven't I seen this miracle before?! Magnificent, super! Fabuleux!

Jakub Fiala
Those worn invasion stripes look great! 👍

CaptGPF
Agree with Alex, the invasion stripes are sooowell done. Roman - how are the Mr Hobby metallics compared to the AK Xtreme metals?

Romain Sablou
Thanks mates 🙂
Mr. Hobby Super Metallic pros : much stronger during weathering steps. cons : dilution can be tricky, not much choices in shades.
AK pros : more variety of color , perfect pre dilution for airbrush, cons : very sensitive to solvant during weathering, high drying time.

Tony Tonov
Great build, I've been following it from the beginning. Impressive result and attention to details. It is an inspiration for my next model 👍

Gary Victory
Absolutely love how this build is coming together. Love the paint work Romain.

Romain Sablou
Thanks guys ! I can't wait to fully dive into weathering

Clement
At this point, I feel like most of us are just speechless, your work is really awe inspiring!

Lebloge
😮 Just one word in mind...perfection ! 😮

Sven Schönyan
Tremendeous work and a extremely good result! What solvent do you use for manipulating the artist pen brushe colours?

Shar Dipree
Awesome work. The rivets alone enliven the model immensely and then the great paintwork and conclusive weathering. Very very beauftiful B-26 so far. 👍

Neuling
Same as Shar Dipree. 👍👍

Romain Sablou
@Clement, and I lack words to thank you all for your support on this long term project. Thanks again everyone ! 🙏
@Sven, I don't use any solvent, you can manipulate the ink fresh out of the pen. But if you still want to dilute or erase something, you can simply use tap water !

Sven Schönyan
Thank you Romain!

Rui S
Looking impecable 👍

Neil
Stunning work! 👏 And a really lovely informative build album 👍

Gary Victory
Really nice work on the weathering Romain. Great progress.

Robert Podkoński
Watching with interest.

Shar Dipree
Looks great so far.