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Desert Marlin
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10 29 September, 18:45
Desert Marlin
The IsraDecal publication is absolutely pricesless for this project!
The IsraDecal publication is absolutely pricesless for this project!
29 September, 21:31
Landlubber Mike
Cool project, following along as well. Not sure I can help you on the squadron selection - lots of good options.
Cool project, following along as well. Not sure I can help you on the squadron selection - lots of good options.
4 October, 17:10
Desert Marlin
Perhaps knowing which squadrons participated in "Swords of Iron" would help?
Perhaps knowing which squadrons participated in "Swords of Iron" would help?
4 October, 18:37
Mike Goodman
I love the IAF, and Israel. Your model looks great so far. I'll be watching!
I love the IAF, and Israel. Your model looks great so far. I'll be watching!
6 October, 01:28
John
Just starting the F-16AM (ROCAF) version of this so I'll be following along. What color are you doing the cockpit tub? I've got a mix for dark gull grey that "looks close" but curious what you settled on.
Oh, also the kit comes with a bunch of 500lb resin Mk. 82s I don't plan to use, along with resin MERs for them. Let me know if you want them.
Just starting the F-16AM (ROCAF) version of this so I'll be following along. What color are you doing the cockpit tub? I've got a mix for dark gull grey that "looks close" but curious what you settled on.
Oh, also the kit comes with a bunch of 500lb resin Mk. 82s I don't plan to use, along with resin MERs for them. Let me know if you want them.
6 October, 14:11
DuperScale
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38 11 July, 21:06
Chris Parsons
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment
11 July, 23:27
Thomas Kolb
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!
12 July, 02:31
DuperScale
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.
12 July, 06:24
Nicolas
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.
16 July, 14:48
Chris Parsons
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….
16 July, 23:24
Treehugger
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.
20 August, 05:21
Treehugger
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.
If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.
Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.
If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.
Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.
20 August, 05:25
Treehugger
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.
What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.
What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.
20 August, 05:35
Treehugger
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.
Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.
Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)
20 August, 07:35
Łukasz Gliński
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)
20 August, 07:59
DuperScale
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.
The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.
The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.
20 August, 16:10
Mr D
Like the cockpit..👍
Lots of work but doing a 👍 job... Be rewarding when done.
Like the cockpit..👍
Lots of work but doing a 👍 job... Be rewarding when done.
17 September, 20:48
J35J
The kit is coming together very good. You are skilled and brave!
Great to follow the journey to see the final result. 👍🏻
The kit is coming together very good. You are skilled and brave!
Great to follow the journey to see the final result. 👍🏻
30 September, 19:28
Thomas Rieck
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17 bilder
MK-15 PHALANX w\additional armourNy: 6 October, 13:27 1:35
Prosjekt: MK-15 PHALANX w\additional armour
10 10 March 2022, 09:13
Desert Marlin
Ground based C-RAM is also pretty coo. This kit looks like a great piece of work!
Ground based C-RAM is also pretty coo. This kit looks like a great piece of work!
14 July, 21:24
Ingo F
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3 5 October, 19:15
Tom B.
Nice 👍 Definetly following that! Part of me wishes for Revell to renew their Boxer line with the new Bundeswehr variants (Waffenträger and this one) at some point, but until the impossible happens it will likely come down to conversions. Curious to where you´ll source the Skyranger turret...
Nice 👍 Definetly following that! Part of me wishes for Revell to renew their Boxer line with the new Bundeswehr variants (Waffenträger and this one) at some point, but until the impossible happens it will likely come down to conversions. Curious to where you´ll source the Skyranger turret...
6 October, 14:10
S M
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23 bilder
Finnish MiG-21bis Ny: 5 October, 21:38 1:72
Mask on place
Prosjekt: Finnish MiG-21bis "Non-realized edition"
12 3 September, 20:24
Mr D
Like a Mig 21 👍👍
The extra work looks good.
What were the holes you had to fill ??
Like a Mig 21 👍👍
The extra work looks good.
What were the holes you had to fill ??
11 September, 21:40
S M
Welcome, mates! @Mr D Those holes I opened and then filled are auxiliary air doors that seems to be open always when the plane is on the ground.
Welcome, mates! @Mr D Those holes I opened and then filled are auxiliary air doors that seems to be open always when the plane is on the ground.
12 September, 20:10
Mr D
Coming along nicely now , Nice decals set..👍👍
How do you find the KP plastic??
Keep up good work...nice subject 👌
Coming along nicely now , Nice decals set..👍👍
How do you find the KP plastic??
Keep up good work...nice subject 👌
13 September, 21:58
S M
Thanks! 😄 I think the plastic is pretty nice. Not too soft and not too hard, but maybe closer to hard. The kit itself is challenging. Seemingly pretty detailet parts with rivets and all, but the fitting is bad. I have already lost some rivets due smoothing seams and filling gaps.
Thanks! 😄 I think the plastic is pretty nice. Not too soft and not too hard, but maybe closer to hard. The kit itself is challenging. Seemingly pretty detailet parts with rivets and all, but the fitting is bad. I have already lost some rivets due smoothing seams and filling gaps.
14 September, 07:03
Mr D
Coming along nicely 👍👍
Like the blue-tak to place canopy.....l do same n remove once dry... works well.
Good luck on next steps 👌👍👍
Coming along nicely 👍👍
Like the blue-tak to place canopy.....l do same n remove once dry... works well.
Good luck on next steps 👌👍👍
6 October, 14:08
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