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Kawanishi H6K5 Type 97 Flying Boat (Mavis) Model 23 `Takuma Flying Group`
Hasegawa 1:72
02338 2020 Nye dekaler 18 October, 20:34
H Kato
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2 18 October, 18:54
Landlubber Mike
Wow, nicely done! Do you mind me asking what paints/colors you used for the finish and roof? Looks great!
Also, how did you do the license plate? Looks very clean.
Thanks!
Wow, nicely done! Do you mind me asking what paints/colors you used for the finish and roof? Looks great!
Also, how did you do the license plate? Looks very clean.
Thanks!
18 October, 20:33
Jakko
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74 bilder
Sherman BARVNy: 18 October, 12:36 1:35
The model is now finished!
Prosjekt: Sherman BARV, D-Day
44 2 July, 20:50
gorby
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
5 July, 06:33
Jakko
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
5 July, 08:53
Jakko
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
9 July, 08:59
Ben M
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
9 July, 11:58
Mr D
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
9 July, 13:30
Jakko
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
9 July, 17:09
Mr D
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
11 July, 12:55
Jakko
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
11 July, 17:41
Robert Podkoński
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
16 July, 15:17
Jakko
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
16 July, 17:21
Mr D
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
25 July, 21:06
Jakko
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
26 July, 08:57
Ben M
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.
My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.
My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
30 September, 16:06
Mr D
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍
30 September, 16:20
Jakko
Thanks, guys 🙂
> I enjoy your in progress photos.
Speaking for myself, I much prefer looking at how a model was built, than how it looks when it's finished 🙂
> My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
I take it you mean the No. 19 set 'B' aerial …
Thanks, guys 🙂
> I enjoy your in progress photos.
Speaking for myself, I much prefer looking at how a model was built, than how it looks when it's finished 🙂
> My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
I take it you mean the No. 19 set 'B' aerial …
30 September, 17:08
Ben M
Wow, that took a lot of work. Great result, and such an interesting vehicle. I wonder how many of these conversion kits actually get built!
Wow, that took a lot of work. Great result, and such an interesting vehicle. I wonder how many of these conversion kits actually get built!
18 October, 12:41
Jakko
Thanks 🙂 It did take a good while, but I'm pretty happy with how it came out. And I agree with Ben, you have to wonder how many people actually build extensive resin conversion kits these days … they're definitely not for the modeller who just wants to put the parts together.
FWIW, I also have Resicast's Sherman V DD and Terrapin (both complete kits) in my stash, which will probably be even more work 🙂
Thanks 🙂 It did take a good while, but I'm pretty happy with how it came out. And I agree with Ben, you have to wonder how many people actually build extensive resin conversion kits these days … they're definitely not for the modeller who just wants to put the parts together.
FWIW, I also have Resicast's Sherman V DD and Terrapin (both complete kits) in my stash, which will probably be even more work 🙂
18 October, 17:07
Ben M
I've looked at an m33 conversion for an m3 along with a resin gun to go behind it but honestly builds like this convince me to save my money; I'm not likely to ever build it and it'd just sit in my stash. I like to spend money on things I'll actually build.
I can just vicariously enjoy builds like this! I also really enjoyed your CDL build, all the corrections you did to it were really amazing. I like how deeply you research these things.
I've looked at an m33 conversion for an m3 along with a resin gun to go behind it but honestly builds like this convince me to save my money; I'm not likely to ever build it and it'd just sit in my stash. I like to spend money on things I'll actually build.
I can just vicariously enjoy builds like this! I also really enjoyed your CDL build, all the corrections you did to it were really amazing. I like how deeply you research these things.
18 October, 20:05
Jakko
Yes, an M33 would be a pretty intensive build, I would imagine 🙂 TBH, Resicast is probably one of the better "traditional" conversion-kit brands you could go for, but if you can't actually see yourself starting it at all then I agree it's just better to leave it. The main reason I had the BARV kit (and the Terrapin, DD, and some others) is because Resicast was going to close last year, and I don't see any plastic kits of any of these coming out in my lifetime …
As for research: I just want to build a model that's fairly accurate, and when the manufacturer gets it clearly wrong, I try and correct the kit 🙂 That's basically what lead to the detailling added to this model, but also the CDL modifications, adding a FULL set of deep-wading gear to a Churchill, etc. I couldn't have done any of these without being able to ask other people online about things I couldn't discover or work out on my own, though.
Yes, an M33 would be a pretty intensive build, I would imagine 🙂 TBH, Resicast is probably one of the better "traditional" conversion-kit brands you could go for, but if you can't actually see yourself starting it at all then I agree it's just better to leave it. The main reason I had the BARV kit (and the Terrapin, DD, and some others) is because Resicast was going to close last year, and I don't see any plastic kits of any of these coming out in my lifetime …
As for research: I just want to build a model that's fairly accurate, and when the manufacturer gets it clearly wrong, I try and correct the kit 🙂 That's basically what lead to the detailling added to this model, but also the CDL modifications, adding a FULL set of deep-wading gear to a Churchill, etc. I couldn't have done any of these without being able to ask other people online about things I couldn't discover or work out on my own, though.
18 October, 20:33
Stefan L.
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35 bilder
Panzerkampfwagen IV Ausf. HNy: 18 October, 20:26 1:35
Added some dents to the fenders, especially the front ones always seemed to have some bending towards the outside, judgi...
Prosjekt: Panzerkampfwagen IV Ausf. H
27 31 October 2023, 12:56
Stefan L.
@Spanjaard thank you, I hope to achieve some nice rust variations at those dented spots
@Spanjaard thank you, I hope to achieve some nice rust variations at those dented spots
28 January, 21:26
John
You're doing a good job of adding all the details that Tamiya kits of this era lack. 👍
You're doing a good job of adding all the details that Tamiya kits of this era lack. 👍
17 August, 19:31
Alex Rakhimgulov
Very interesting and useful tips under each picture! Thank you! Really cool build!
Very interesting and useful tips under each picture! Thank you! Really cool build!
11 September, 09:19
Stefan L.
@Alex Rakhimgulov thank you alot for this comment! Appreciate it that you find those tips useful 🙂
@Alex Rakhimgulov thank you alot for this comment! Appreciate it that you find those tips useful 🙂
11 September, 11:26
Andor Tóth
Cool build! It was my very first 1/35 vehicle I built back in 1995 or so (at the age of 15). So nostalgic.
Cool build! It was my very first 1/35 vehicle I built back in 1995 or so (at the age of 15). So nostalgic.
4 October, 11:27
Stefan L.
@Andor Tóth oh wow, what a coincidence, hope you will like the end-result! 🙂
@Andor Tóth oh wow, what a coincidence, hope you will like the end-result! 🙂
4 October, 22:05
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Early WWII Version - D69820 Cradle And 50 Round Ammo Can
Browning M2HB .50 Cal On Tank Mount Master 1:35
GM-35-069 2024 New tool 18 October, 20:18
Curtis Caden
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31 21 September, 16:03
Curtis Caden
Thank you Pepe, Martin Oostrom and Goldman. My only wish is that directions would show pictures of how the part looks after it is attached. Too many arrows pointing in a direction and not even showing which way the part should be flipped. I am convinced that to build a model correctly one should do two of them. One to learn on and one to have for a nice, finished product. I tell myself that I build it because I like the subject matter, and it is only a representation. I felt bad that I couldn't align the white decal stripes better.
Thank you Pepe, Martin Oostrom and Goldman. My only wish is that directions would show pictures of how the part looks after it is attached. Too many arrows pointing in a direction and not even showing which way the part should be flipped. I am convinced that to build a model correctly one should do two of them. One to learn on and one to have for a nice, finished product. I tell myself that I build it because I like the subject matter, and it is only a representation. I felt bad that I couldn't align the white decal stripes better.
22 September, 11:05
David Orr
Very nice work Curtis. Looks like an absolute beast. How did the kit go together? I've got an AMT Kenworth Alaskan Hauler in the stash which I'm hoping to build soon. That will be my first truck model.
Very nice work Curtis. Looks like an absolute beast. How did the kit go together? I've got an AMT Kenworth Alaskan Hauler in the stash which I'm hoping to build soon. That will be my first truck model.
22 September, 23:22
Christian W
That truck looks really nice! Flawless pauntjob. This is what I like 🙂
That truck looks really nice! Flawless pauntjob. This is what I like 🙂
23 September, 09:19
Curtis Caden
David Orr the truck part went together fine. The wrecker part that sits on the frame was a bit awkward. There were two options for the hooking part that led to some confusion on my part. I liked having the long cable but having it molded in plastic was not ideal and I probably should have substituted a fabric rope cable. I did like the way the mirrors in this kit were molded.
David Orr the truck part went together fine. The wrecker part that sits on the frame was a bit awkward. There were two options for the hooking part that led to some confusion on my part. I liked having the long cable but having it molded in plastic was not ideal and I probably should have substituted a fabric rope cable. I did like the way the mirrors in this kit were molded.
23 September, 11:26
Curtis Caden
Italeri doesn't mold their cabs like other companies, and I did have trouble with Opal Blitz Classic cab assembly. On this one the hood lined up just right. Hood alignment has only been a problem on the Ford Louisville Series Delivery Van. If you like the hood you would also like Italeri's Classic Western Star 4964 and Australian Truck.
Italeri doesn't mold their cabs like other companies, and I did have trouble with Opal Blitz Classic cab assembly. On this one the hood lined up just right. Hood alignment has only been a problem on the Ford Louisville Series Delivery Van. If you like the hood you would also like Italeri's Classic Western Star 4964 and Australian Truck.
15 October, 00:11
Bozzer
I had hood issues with mine. I couldn't figure out what had happened? It was like the hood, or cab, was twisted? Just wondered if you had a work around.
I had hood issues with mine. I couldn't figure out what had happened? It was like the hood, or cab, was twisted? Just wondered if you had a work around.
15 October, 11:10
Curtis Caden
Bozzer I had no work around. I find positioning with tape helps. I usually tape the hood to the cab for painting and use tape to hold parts in position until they dry. I used tape for the hood on this one. I think I was just fortunate. My usual problem is getting a twist in the ladder style frame and all I know to do is be more careful.
Bozzer I had no work around. I find positioning with tape helps. I usually tape the hood to the cab for painting and use tape to hold parts in position until they dry. I used tape for the hood on this one. I think I was just fortunate. My usual problem is getting a twist in the ladder style frame and all I know to do is be more careful.
17 October, 22:30
Bozzer
Always check your frame rails, against a flat surface, before starting. Gentle heat from a hairdryer, will help straighten the frame. (Special note: The Mack R685ST kit has a frame that flares out at the front, DON'T correct it!)
To keep my frame square, I build a jig out of Lego and use that to line everything up.
I'll get back to this Western Star, in the coming months, and take another look at it. I may have missed something obvious, that I overlooked? She's been waiting far too long now, to be finished.
Always check your frame rails, against a flat surface, before starting. Gentle heat from a hairdryer, will help straighten the frame. (Special note: The Mack R685ST kit has a frame that flares out at the front, DON'T correct it!)
To keep my frame square, I build a jig out of Lego and use that to line everything up.
I'll get back to this Western Star, in the coming months, and take another look at it. I may have missed something obvious, that I overlooked? She's been waiting far too long now, to be finished.
18 October, 04:55
Martin Oostrom
I've been building the Australian Truck on and off for five years now. It won't get right.
I've been building the Australian Truck on and off for five years now. It won't get right.
18 October, 06:02
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