Nyhetsstrøm

Dave Burgess
Another one of my 1:48 builds from the early '80s. Like many of my models back then, the photos taken on my film camera back then have been lost, but the models have survived. Finally took them out of the display case, dusted them off, and updated my photo albums.

bossy122
A nice 80s effort! Do you recall how you did the red on the nose? I have 2 Thunderbirds in the stash and its memories of building one as a kid ( mid 70s) and trying to brush paint the red that haunt me still!

Dave Burgess
Been so long now I can't remember. I'm sure part of it at least was decal. I probably just matched the paint. It's also possible that I used the decal to create a mask template and painted the whole thing. I have several airbrushes, so no problem there.

Rando
Very cool, I'm getting the Mikro Mir kit, interested to hear how it goes together

Patrick Hagelstein
True! Joining in as well to see how this builds up. Enjoy the build! 👍🏼

J35J
Joining, have one in my stash waiting, watching with intrest👍🏻

Robert Podkoński
Taking a seat, of course 🙂

Łukasz Gliński
Following too

Martin von Schreckenstein
joining in. looking good so far

Robin (WhiteGlint)
A Draken 👀

Dave Flitton
Watching.

S M
Welcome, mates! I'm building also a Hasegawa kit alongside with this for comparison and for testing painting.

Oleg Bogolei
Following! Very interesting comparing!

S M
Welcome, Oleg! I just got Afterburner assembled, and the cockpit is ready.

Łukasz Gliński
Seems like Hasegawa is not that bad after all 😄

Finn
Following

Patrick Hagelstein
Łukasz, I was thinking the same. That 'old' Hasegawa kit isn't that bad after all. The MikroMir kit is only marginally more refined as it seems.

S M
Hasegawa has only 60 grey parts and 3 clear parts, but it is pretty smartly made and easy to build. MikroMir has 150 grey parts, 5 clear parts and 67 mandatory PE-parts. Being a short-run kit its parts need more work to fit. Still MikroMir contains more details (and Falcon missiles) than Hasegawa so it's comparatively cheaper.

Patrick Hagelstein
OK, so you do think the MikroMir kit is the more detailed one? Good to know when I get to my Austrian Draken project (sometimes this century.... )! Following your build with interest! 👍

S M
Well my background research is still going on, but atleast the cockpit is more detailed.

Patrick Hagelstein
That's good to know already! ☺️👍🏼

S M
I have to update that MikroMir's IRST is not as good as Hasegawa's. The seeker head is a clear part and there is one PE-part fin, but the two-part frame is bulky and doesn't have panel lines. Luckyly the Draken version I'm goingt to make doesn't have an IRST so I used the clear part and the PE-part to improve my Hasegawa-Draken's IRST.

S M
New photos starting from 36. The airframe is assembled.

J35J
Progressing nicely👍🏻

Mirko Römer
Interesting model kit, following

Urban Gardini
Intresting mate!

S M
Slow progress, but I'm very proud of this simple tool that I made in 15 min to make 0,8mm diameter styrene circles.

Guy Rump
Looking good, following. 👍

J35J
Great work with setup of tool and outcome of the chaff & flare dispensers👍🏻

S M
Thanks, J35J!

Rando
Amazing idea with that tool you made! Gonna remember that

Michael Kohl
Following

Rando
Man. Struggling away with the clear parts on my RF-8 right now. Toughest part of modeling probably. Nice work on your canopy!

J35J
Progressing great S M!

S M
Thanks! @Rando I agree it is one of the most tough and riskiest parts. They took me 3 days because I wanted to make them pretty shiny with Humbrol Clear, but it takes lots of time to dry and it has become too thick. Next day when I check the clear parts they have some ugly residues and unevenness +hair. On the other part I just sanded and polished some minor points, but the other part I cleaned the varnish away with isopropanol and tried to dip it in varnish again. Next day still unevenness so I just sanded and polished them avay and dipped it in my more reliable floor polish that also dries faster.

Rando
Yeah I've always had that with dipping parts in the floor polish, it doesn't dry evenly for me so I just polish with Tamiya and Novus compound. Good to get over the hump and onto painting and decals!

S M
Bad luck with painting. I have to redo the top surface by removing most of the paint. It was a bad idea to preshade yellow with pink.