Nyhetsstrøm

Bozzer
I'm glad to see, that it's not just me, who does all this type of prep work. I've spent far too much time and money, on tools, gizmo's and fabrication of various things, just to try and speed up this process. Yet, I still end up falling back to the back of a #11 knife blade!
I'll hang around for this one mate, mainly to see the outcome of those amazing decals. But also to watch how the trailer goes together?
I helped my son build the Spacecab, way back in the early 2000's. He didn't enjoy it and abandoned his efforts 🙁 No wonder he became a plumber 😛

Martin Oostrom
Kerry Cox taught Peter Hardy and Peter taught me: "Better remove those lines, you'll always know they're there."
I mostly use the cutting edge of the blade to scrape, I'll try the back sometime.
I assembled the chassis today and it seems perfectly straight. A lot of work remains before I can start on the decals.

Bozzer
If you draw the edge, of the back of the blade, it gives you a nice smooth, flat surface. It also doesn't dull your sharp blade? After a while, it becomes second nature. I have found, that those nasty mold lines, show up even more, when paint is applied? Even when I glue two parts together, it's always the back of the knife, that deals with the seam. You should definitely try it, and see if you notice the difference.

Lode Schildermans
Following. Martin and trucks and trailers, always surprising

Bozzer
He's got this, Lode. Martin is the Plastic Surgeon 😉

Spanjaard
I am in 🙂

Martin Oostrom
The doctor is in 😄
I managed some work on the axles Tuesday evening and I had half a day to myself yesterday. So I built the box with a lot of added plastic to get everything squared. I'll be sanding the outside and I don't want the thing to fold.
The mudflaps were unconvincing , so I went to town on them. Your opinions please?

Bozzer
I've heard of guys, filling in reefers, with expanding foam?
I've never personally done it, because I like the option of opening doors. Those mudflaps look so much better now, too.

Martin Oostrom
Mmm, insulation foam in a reefer….
There is/was a load of cyanide in that stuff. Not something I want to emit in my hobby room.
My 2k also contains cyanide, but those vapours are mainly vented outside

Bozzer
I have never checked mate, and I've used it for sealing gaps, etc, for decades? However, I've definitely not used it on any models. In fairness though, all my current reefers are from AMT. I love the fact that they use 1 piece plastic, for the sides, base and top. It definitely makes them sturdy. I do have a few Italeri reefers though, and I was thinking about lining them with thin plastic? I don't want to compromise the look, so I thought maybe some 1mm sheet, would work? What do you think mate?

Martin Oostrom
Lining with 1mm sheet is a possibility, but … see my new picture. On both sides there are two half rods running the whole length of the trailer and the ceiling is littered with protruding ejection marks.
The floor is smooth as the ejection marks are on the underside.
This Revell edition has water slide decals, the Italeri reefer I have has two big stickers for each side. Will be hell to line up, so I'll probably paint something.

Bozzer
On large decals, it's best to cut them into 3. It just makes things easier. I honestly wouldn't have a clue what to do with stickers though? That's exactly what I have, on my Smokey and the Bandit 2 trailer.
Which reminds me...
Jerry from Modeltruckin, is retiring. Last orders are being taken upto end of July. Get them decals ordered mate, before you can't get them again!

Bozzer
I just took a closer look at your pictures. I see those rails now. I'm guessing that they were a feature, to stop pallets from ramming up tight to the side, on the 1:1 version? The injection pin marks, I can Dremel away. You've actually got me thinking about digging out one of my reefers now, lol

Martin Oostrom
In the real one, there will be a strip with slits to secure the cargo. But those are generally not that high and low. See picture.

Bill Newcomer
Late to the party. (I have been really busy with my wife's garden and my 1:1 car) Following. Making your box square and straight looks like quite the endeavor.

Martin Oostrom
Dry fitting the door showed a small gap between them. I later added a strip of styrene to the back. Stiffening the doors by accident.
I removed the moulded rear lights, only realising too late that they're hollow. A thin sheet of styrene helped. I also glued a strip to the storage bins. Too much sanding otherwise. Now all trailer parts are ready for painting.

Lode Schildermans
Definitely impressed, Martin. Smart building by improving stability in the beginning of the build. I particularly like the improvements with styrene

Martin Oostrom
Don't tell anybody Lode. There'll be some pe on it. 🤫

Bozzer
I wonder if that PE is going to be the bars and locking system, for the back doors?

Lode Schildermans
I shall be silent as a grave, Martin

Martin Oostrom
Wait and see Bozzer!

Bozzer
Oh Martin, you tease! 😛

Martin Oostrom
Primer's on! It took over 4 hours to paint the truck and trailer in my tiny booth.

Lode Schildermans
But the result is a success. Looking forward to see your progress of this big one

Gerald
👍

Martin Oostrom
First colours are here. Tamiya bright red, Tamiya silver and not shown, Tamiya aluminium straight from the can on the reefer itself.

Bozzer
Excellent colour choices, mate. This build is exciting me 😄

Bill Newcomer
Color, Always good to see color. 🙂

Martin Oostrom
For the first time in forever I follow the colour callouts from the instructions, and now my choices are excellent. Makes me wonder…
Enjoy the colours while you can, this thing will be wrapped in decals when she's done.

Bozzer
Lol, maybe because it's more true to life?
Although I have to admit, I've crawled under a few trailers, and they were all the same, light rust/brown colour. Even on fleet management, the chassis and underneath, never get washed. I do a lot of work for a global logistics company and their trucks always look clean, but they're not. My brother works for a national retailer, driving big rigs. I asked him when he washes the underside of his trailer? His answer was priceless, but unfortunately, unprintable 😉

Martin Oostrom
I actually had red oxide primer in mind for the red parts, but didn't at the last moment!
I also never wash the underside of my car. And I've worked in port, so I can imagine some colourful language.

Done with airbrushing for now. Only some detail painting to do.
And after curing, it's decals time!

Goldman
Good luck with these decals. Hope the decal spray will do its magic.

Spanjaard
fingers crossed

Bozzer
Mate, please do as Goldman suggested on your other thread, and take pictures of these?
It's definitely worth a try? I can't bear to hear the screams, if the decals spray doesn't work.
We need you to be successful on this, to raise the bar, and give the rest of us, something to reach for?
God speed, my friend, and good luck 👍

Martin Oostrom
Yes sir Big Bozzer sir!
Thank you guys for all the encouragement

Martin Oostrom
It seems to work on the first two pieces 🤞🏻
I'll let these cure for a while, to avoid moving them when doing the two large decals

bughunter
👍 Good luck!

Spanjaard
mission accomplished my friend, well done!!! now let's do (tomorrow?) the other side 🙂

bughunter
Pic 48: definitely LOVE 👍

Bozzer
Sorry for the FB link, but I think that looks awesome! And really, they made it look so easy?

Bozzer
Martin, you pulled it out of the bag!
I was nervous for you, on those big decals, but mate, you made it look like a pro!
Kudos to you, and I hope you celebrate with a few cold beers!

schecter87
As I can see - you're using Micro Sol solution. Have you tried Tamiya Super Strong in a black bottle (It should be used carefully and needs a bit of experience to use, but it softens decal very fast)? When I first used Mark Fit Super Strong, it was like a revelation to me 🙂 But I never used Micro Sol, so I don't know of how it works.

Martin Oostrom
That truck is awesome Bozzer! Really enjoyed that video.
Only the starboard large decal left 🤞🏻

And then hoping that the clear coat won't do anything funny. I got two spray cans of Mr Top Coat gloss. According to the internet, that should do fine 🤞🏻

Hi Scheckter, I use a combination of micro sol and heat. Apply some Sol, let it work a little, press with a soft brush or que tip. Repeat a hundred times or more to get everything where I want it.
I'm careful with these old decals and extra hot decal softener.

Martin Oostrom
Clearcoat with Mr Topcoat acrylic gloss. straight from the rattle can, due to spray booth size limitations. Not so sure yet about the result.

Spanjaard
seems quite good so far!

Bozzer
I'd let it dry fully, then reassess it. If you're still not happy, try another coat? I'm always nervous about rattle can gloss coats, ever since I had that crazing. I nearly always now, use Tamiya through the airbrush.

Lode Schildermans
Mindblowing result so far. I'd like to see that beauty once with my own eyes, Martin

Peter Hardy
Hmmm. Martin's getting good at this model building thing. [Mental note to myself… Get better Peter! Faster!]

Martin Oostrom
Sanded it smooth-ish and gave it a full wet coat. 🤞🏻
This trailer is too big for my paint booth Bozzer. To get a uniform look I also sprayed the truck from the can.

Spanjaard
it is looking very good!

bughunter
Truck and trailer looks great!

Bozzer
Shouldn't be too long now, before you get them together, mate. I'm really happy on the outcome, of both the decals and the clear coat, mate. You've definitely got some nuts, to take them decals on! I'm dreading doing my Smokey and the Bandit trailer!

Martin Oostrom
The end of the trailer is near. Started final assembly today

Martin Oostrom
It is not something I recommend to anyone, all these decals. The trailer is okay to do, but the truck is a $..tjob

This helps: Completed - Köln Truck & Trailer | Album by Mahoo76 (1:24)