WIP - 2S7M Pion

Scott Dutton
That metal barrel will have some weight. Looking forward to seeing this one done

Rhys Young
I recently picked up this kit. will be staying tuned for this build!!!

Przemek Przybulewski
Scott - Barrel is quite heavy, I think I will have to add some counterweight to the hull.
Rhys - I hope you will like my build.

Bart Goesaert
Nice work on the wheels and tracks...

Dan M
Very nice so far! I have a Pion kit as well waiting in my stash so i will watch with interest 🙂

I did notice that you painted your tracks directly with a metallic steel color. This is a little unusual as I see almost everyone painting tracks with black or brownish colors, almost never a whole metallic paint. Since i'm never happy with the way my tracks turn out could you please share your technique for track painting and weathering ? Much obliged!!!

Przemek Przybulewski
Thank you Bart.
Dan -Thank you. As for the tracks, I've tried few different methods on my previous model and honestly I'm not sure which way is the best. I'm currently testing this one with Alclad Steel paint but I have a feeling that paint is too light. Anyway, here is the recipe. After preparing tracks (I tried this on vinyl and plastic ones), I've painted them with glossy black. I've waited day or two to paint get well cured (even if this is a acrylic). Then I've painted with two coats of Alclad Steel. It then cured for another day or two. If links have the rubber pads it is time to paint them as well. I usually use XF-86 Rubber Black. All was sealed with light coat of Alclad Klear Kote Flat just to secure paint and dim shininess of the Steel paint. Then I used home made wash (white spirit and VanGogh ivory black with a little bit of VanDyke bronze). Make sure that spirit you use do not react with Alclad paint. I applied this wash on one side of tracks - when it dried I did the other side. That's it - if you want you can apply another layer of clear flat to secure dried wash.

Dan M
Thank you Przemek. Really appreciate your explanations. Over the time there are multiple techniques that i've tried:

One with Vallejo Track Primer + dry brushing of Dark Rust, Light Rust and some Steel (plus Light Sienna Pigments) (it's a link by length track from Trumpeter SA-6)
[img1]

Another one similar to your technique: black gloss undercoat + Vallejo Metal Color Steel + some Vallejo washes with Dark Brown and Rust (it's a vinyl track from a Hobby Boss Pershing kit)

[img1]

And another one with Vallejo German Red Brown primer + black washes and some Steel drybrush on the edges (plus rubber parts painted with Vallejo Panzer Aces Dark Rubber) on a vinyl track from Academy M7:
[img1]

Not completely happy with either of them but i need to decide what to use in the future 🙂.

Once again thanks and sorry if I derailed the discussion towards tracks.

Scott Dutton
Another nice project, and again a very large model. I got one of these on the weekend at our competition, already finished, not by me. I will add some more weathering and I like the result you get so will try and have similar look

Przemek Przybulewski
No problem Dan. I hope you will find my method useful.
Thank you Scott. Model is truly big as for the tracked one. I was suprised with size of the hull and the gun it carries.

Ingo F
Looks very nice!

Bart Goesaert
looks promising

Murad ÖZER
incredible shading work 👍

Spanjaard
looking fantastic!

Przemek Przybulewski
Thank you guys. While taking photo of the partially painted model I thought about building some vehicle and show different steps of painting. So for example cover whole vehicle with primer, then only 90% paint with grey, only 80% with white, 70% with base color and so on with filters, washes etc, just leaving part of the vehicle not touched. Just an idea, but it might look interesting.

Fabian D.
Really nice work. 👍
Having a kit partially finished would probably look pretty cool, as long as there is enough space to display all the different stages properly. You'd need something like a SCUD or something similar size.

Rhys Young
Love the diorama base progress, and that pre-shading really shows through, and enhances the look!
Keep up the good work!
Thanks

Scott Dutton
It just keeps getting better, love the little things you do, stowage in the locker etc

Michael Hickey
She looks awesome.👍

Przemek Przybulewski
Thank you. Very close to the end. Just to correct some minor things I've noticed like front side light or splashed on the rear, etc.

gorby
Another amazing model Przemek. Well done.

Scott Dutton
Beautiful job, nice setting. Enjoy the ammo loading scenario shown.

Przemek Przybulewski
Thank you Gorbygould and Scott. I have few finished model (like SA-2, SCUD, Cougar, K1&K9), just need some time to setup a photo booth to take some final shots and put them in gallery. I'm hoping to do it just right after I finish G6 Rhino as too many of finished model is collecting dust without properly done photo session.

Holger Kranich
Hey Przemek, again a wonderful dio of an seldomly seen subject by you! Congrats, very well done!

Scott Dutton
I built photo booth last year but don't get anywhere near good photo result as you. Secret apparently is using simpler camera with smallsensor.what are you using?

Przemek Przybulewski
Thank you very much Holger. :-D
Scott - for the daily photos I use iPhones for some time (first 4, then 5 and now 6) and quality of those photos is more the enough for my needs. But as for the final photos I use old Canon EOS 450D with tripod. Trick is that I do not use special photo lamps and stuff, I'm using the same light source everytime/everyday. I have in my man cave three lamps with 2 long glow lamp. They cost me a lot of money but I decided that my eyes are priceless that's why I gought the best I could. Those are special tube that emits light almost the same as day light. Previously my eyes were red or dry after few hours now I can stay there whole day and nothing happens.

Rhys Young
Amazing work Przemek, I cant wait to see the final photos of the build, quick question though, what do you use, and how do you create the mud splatter on the vehicle? Looks awesome!
Keep up the good work!
Thanks

Scott Dutton
Thanks for photo information. I wonder if I may impose and ask for a link to such long glow lamps, when I Google I get results of novelty coloured lamps. Thanks in anticipation

Spanjaard
yes, i would love to have that link too 🙂

Przemek Przybulewski
Thank you Rhys. Splashes were done with brush and airbrush. I made a quite thin mixture from pigmets, some dirt, plaster and fixer (you can use white spirit as well), then you dip a brush in this mixture and blow it from brush straight to a vehicle.
Scott - no problem. Please try this link:
tim.pl/swietlowka-g1..tld-ph-8711500888587
I get those G13 lamps and they are really great. Just let me know if you will need some more details.

Rhys Young
Thanks Przemek I'll try something like that on my next vehicle, hope it turns out as well as yours 😛
Thanks

Scott Dutton
Thanks, I think the magic ingredient there is the colour temperature,4000K, I think my LED lamps are 3400 degrees Kelvin. Ta

Przemek Przybulewski
I have read a lot of articles, hints, tips and tricks, manual and other stuff and finally Ive decided to get a 4000K as most fitting my needs. It is a cool warm light and I am fully satisfied with it. I have in the other room cold LED and it is good for some paper work (my son does a homework there) but it is not good for painting, colors looking unnatural.

Scott Dutton
My two flours at the workbench are different temperatures, noticed today as turned them off the different colour caste you get on us olive drab and IDC Sinai grey. Will research what I can get, I thought I had daylight tubes

Przemek Przybulewski
Good luck Scott. I hope you will get those or similar lamps. They really make a difference.

Lex Jassies
Very good looking diorama! I especially like the way the wet ground looks. Well done Sir!

Gerald
Well done 👍

Bart Goesaert
With regards to the number of Kelvin, used for lamps, I tend to go for about 2700K, because that's what is taken for a close as possible to natural sunlight. Before regular lightbulbs were omitted, I sed the bulbs with a bueish sheen in it, and that was satisfying for my eyes... I could work hours at a time, without getting tired eyes. In Led-version they still excist, but are very expensive.

With regards to the model... splendid work...