ZTZ 96A - Tank Biathlon 2014
Kommentarer
5 16 July 2017, 19:28
Ingo F
Hey guys. The KV-85 received it first coat of varnish and i am not going to waste time and observe how the varnish is drying. Here my new project: ZTZ 96A from Tank Biathlon 2014.
Hey guys. The KV-85 received it first coat of varnish and i am not going to waste time and observe how the varnish is drying. Here my new project: ZTZ 96A from Tank Biathlon 2014.
16 July 2017, 19:33
Ingo F
Yes James. I collected some good pictures of the camo as it is a little bit different from the standard PLA camo.
Yes James. I collected some good pictures of the camo as it is a little bit different from the standard PLA camo.
16 July 2017, 22:01
Ingo F
Thank you James, will do. I put this one aside as i started to weather the KV-85. Did the chipping today. I think i again went a little bit over the top with my chipping. But hey its an soviet tank during WW2. 😄
Thank you James, will do. I put this one aside as i started to weather the KV-85. Did the chipping today. I think i again went a little bit over the top with my chipping. But hey its an soviet tank during WW2. 😄
17 July 2017, 20:10
Dan M
Will be watching this! So far I've avoided doing anything ressembling digital camouflage 🙂
Will be watching this! So far I've avoided doing anything ressembling digital camouflage 🙂
19 July 2017, 09:30
Ingo F
Hehe, your are not the only one. 😄 This tank will be my test vehicle for digital camo. 🙂
Hehe, your are not the only one. 😄 This tank will be my test vehicle for digital camo. 🙂
19 July 2017, 10:12
Ingo F
Hey guys an update on this one. The build is almost finished, only the tracks are left.
Here a short list on corrections/modifications that i did during the build:
First of all the already known error with the narrow drive sprockets. You can find more information here: amps-armor.org/SiteR..?ID=1722&Type=FB
I used an 0,8mm plastic card piece to correct the error.
The holder for the external fuel barrels were removed and only the attachment points left. The tank from the tank biathlon do not have the barrels attached during the competition.
The headlight guards from the kit are useless. Hard to clean and break very easy. If you glue them toghether, they wont fit and the glue points are impossible to remove. I made my own from a piece of wire.
I had to cut open the holder for the tow cables (three pieces) as the hole is way to small to get both tow cables through it.
Only the gun carriage was build on the top of the turret without the heavy mg.
I had to cut the door of the rage finder (?) to show it open on one side.
Hey guys an update on this one. The build is almost finished, only the tracks are left.
Here a short list on corrections/modifications that i did during the build:
First of all the already known error with the narrow drive sprockets. You can find more information here: amps-armor.org/SiteR..?ID=1722&Type=FB
I used an 0,8mm plastic card piece to correct the error.
The holder for the external fuel barrels were removed and only the attachment points left. The tank from the tank biathlon do not have the barrels attached during the competition.
The headlight guards from the kit are useless. Hard to clean and break very easy. If you glue them toghether, they wont fit and the glue points are impossible to remove. I made my own from a piece of wire.
I had to cut open the holder for the tow cables (three pieces) as the hole is way to small to get both tow cables through it.
Only the gun carriage was build on the top of the turret without the heavy mg.
I had to cut the door of the rage finder (?) to show it open on one side.
30 July 2017, 17:00
Ingo F
Roadwheels and tracks were painted and fixed. I primed the tank with nato black and started with the camo pattern. That will take some time. 😄 It took me almost three hours to create and mask that little bit of space.
Roadwheels and tracks were painted and fixed. I primed the tank with nato black and started with the camo pattern. That will take some time. 😄 It took me almost three hours to create and mask that little bit of space.
9 August 2017, 19:15
Ingo F
Thanks James. 🙂 Actually its really three: black, brown and light green. The dark green will be the base color at the end. I hope to finish the masking tomorrow so i can spray the brown spots.
Thanks James. 🙂 Actually its really three: black, brown and light green. The dark green will be the base color at the end. I hope to finish the masking tomorrow so i can spray the brown spots.
9 August 2017, 19:23
Spanjaard
looks good already. lots of masking ahead, but it will be awesome at the end Ingo.
looks good already. lots of masking ahead, but it will be awesome at the end Ingo.
10 August 2017, 22:08
Ingo F
Thank you Spanjaard. I have finished the masking of the black camo and sprayed the brown spots. The masking will continue after work. 😄
Thank you Spanjaard. I have finished the masking of the black camo and sprayed the brown spots. The masking will continue after work. 😄
10 August 2017, 22:12
Ingo F
Added and masked the light green spots. The tank already received an coat of dark green as a base color.
Added and masked the light green spots. The tank already received an coat of dark green as a base color.
13 August 2017, 19:05
Ingo F
Thanks James. After this masking challenge, i am going for a plain overall green color for the next few builds. 😄
Thanks James. After this masking challenge, i am going for a plain overall green color for the next few builds. 😄
13 August 2017, 20:08
Ingo F
Here we are. It was hell of a work but in the end it was worth it. There are a few places that needs a touch up but almost everything went well with the masking.
The funny thing is that its not only took me hours to mask the tank, it also took me an hour to remove the mask. 😄
Next step will be a few touch ups and detail painting.
Here we are. It was hell of a work but in the end it was worth it. There are a few places that needs a touch up but almost everything went well with the masking.
The funny thing is that its not only took me hours to mask the tank, it also took me an hour to remove the mask. 😄
Next step will be a few touch ups and detail painting.
14 August 2017, 19:10
Ingo F
Thank you Martin, Dan and James.
The color that were used:
Black - NATO Black from Tamiya
Brown - NATO Brown from Tamiya
Light Green - Cam. light green from Vallejo (Model Air 71.006)
Dark Green - Medium Olive from Vallejo (Model Air 71.092)
and Zashchitniy Zeleno XB 518 from Ammo Mig (A.MiG-083) for the highlightning.
Thank you Martin, Dan and James.
The color that were used:
Black - NATO Black from Tamiya
Brown - NATO Brown from Tamiya
Light Green - Cam. light green from Vallejo (Model Air 71.006)
Dark Green - Medium Olive from Vallejo (Model Air 71.092)
and Zashchitniy Zeleno XB 518 from Ammo Mig (A.MiG-083) for the highlightning.
14 August 2017, 22:00
Ingo F
Hey guys, i need your help. For weathering i am planing to represent a lightly dusted tank. There will be only minimal chipping as the tanks are repainted before the competition. The only heavy weathered place will be the rear of the tank and the tracks.
I have three options in mind how to represent the light dust.
First one is to heavy delute Tamiya Buff and mist it over the tank. Unfortunately i have never done this before.
Second are pigments over the whole tank and white spirit to fix them.
The third one is an overall wash made from Buff oil paints from Abtl. 502. The same way i did on my Leo 1A5.
Any suggestions?
Hey guys, i need your help. For weathering i am planing to represent a lightly dusted tank. There will be only minimal chipping as the tanks are repainted before the competition. The only heavy weathered place will be the rear of the tank and the tracks.
I have three options in mind how to represent the light dust.
First one is to heavy delute Tamiya Buff and mist it over the tank. Unfortunately i have never done this before.
Second are pigments over the whole tank and white spirit to fix them.
The third one is an overall wash made from Buff oil paints from Abtl. 502. The same way i did on my Leo 1A5.
Any suggestions?
15 August 2017, 21:53
Dan M
There's also AK's "Dust deposits". This one is more like a wash with some particles in it to make it look more solid. Very good to represent dust that has accumulated in some areas like wheels inner hubs and various corners of the hull. But careful with enamel-based products on tracks 🙂
My only attempt so far to make a very dusty vehicle was with the Bradley and there I've dissolved some dust and sandy pigments in a thinner solution (or use water with a drop of liquid detergent, it's important in order to break the water surface tension and make it easier to apply). You need to be careful with the pigment concentration and there is no exact formula, as different effect can be obtaine this way (too little pigment and it's more of a wash, good for dusty lines accumulated in recesses or around details, too much and it's more of a paste useful for a muddy look).
Then I smeared this sort of wash over all the areas of the tank where I wanted it and left it to dry. Looks extremely ugly in the beginning but after it dries you can still manipulate the pigments using a moistened brush or cotton bud and cleanup areas you don't want so dirty, etc. Multiple applications can be used with different colored pigments to enhance the chromatic aspect. I find this solution the easiest and also the safest since you can remove all the pigments if unhappy with the result.
But I would also recomment a pin wash afterwards to enhance the details as the dusty look will hide any previous pin wash.
After you are happy with the way it looks you can add pigment fixer or spray a coat of varnish to make it permanent.
There's also AK's "Dust deposits". This one is more like a wash with some particles in it to make it look more solid. Very good to represent dust that has accumulated in some areas like wheels inner hubs and various corners of the hull. But careful with enamel-based products on tracks 🙂
My only attempt so far to make a very dusty vehicle was with the Bradley and there I've dissolved some dust and sandy pigments in a thinner solution (or use water with a drop of liquid detergent, it's important in order to break the water surface tension and make it easier to apply). You need to be careful with the pigment concentration and there is no exact formula, as different effect can be obtaine this way (too little pigment and it's more of a wash, good for dusty lines accumulated in recesses or around details, too much and it's more of a paste useful for a muddy look).
Then I smeared this sort of wash over all the areas of the tank where I wanted it and left it to dry. Looks extremely ugly in the beginning but after it dries you can still manipulate the pigments using a moistened brush or cotton bud and cleanup areas you don't want so dirty, etc. Multiple applications can be used with different colored pigments to enhance the chromatic aspect. I find this solution the easiest and also the safest since you can remove all the pigments if unhappy with the result.
But I would also recomment a pin wash afterwards to enhance the details as the dusty look will hide any previous pin wash.
After you are happy with the way it looks you can add pigment fixer or spray a coat of varnish to make it permanent.
16 August 2017, 07:57
Ingo F
Thank you guys for the advises. I will try it out on an separate piece of plastic and the underbelly of the tank. 🙂
Thank you guys for the advises. I will try it out on an separate piece of plastic and the underbelly of the tank. 🙂
16 August 2017, 09:38
Ingo F
Finished this project in the morning. Was really fun to dust and dirt it up. I wanted the show a tank after the course on the biathlon ground.
I used heavy deluted color buff oil from Abt. 502 and various pigments like european earth, light sienna, russian earth and black.
Finished this project in the morning. Was really fun to dust and dirt it up. I wanted the show a tank after the course on the biathlon ground.
I used heavy deluted color buff oil from Abt. 502 and various pigments like european earth, light sienna, russian earth and black.
20 August 2017, 10:40