This was the start of painting bombs. I didn't bother to make the cook retardant coat using putties. Instead I depict it with pre-shading and some oil wash. the first step was to give it a preshading with a mixture of brown and black lacquer paint
I was using the Galaxy Model masking tape for AMK F-14D kit. So I had to paint Olive Drab (Mr. Color C12?) first. And then, apply the masking tapes to the shell of bombs
For the nose section, the VF-2 Bounty Hunter bands also came from AMK's spare sheet. Due to the bulged shape of AMK's nose, the colored bands should be reduced in length in order not to go under the missle pallets. I cut 2 or 3 millimeters short.
Shiny gun vents and nozzles were airbrushed with Mr. Color Super Stainless Steel SM204
For this model, most of the decals are spare AMK F-14D decals. I used Tamiya's own decals only on some places where there is no supplement (such as the AAQ-25 LANTIRN pod). The Tamiya ones are shiny and did not react to Mr. Mark Setter very well.
The biggest reason I could not mount a TARPS pod was that the hole was way too close to the starboard nacelle, so the display pole interferes with the pod
The KASL resin wings does have a little problem when you fit the slats and flaps to the wing, I widen the slots on the wing and inserted some metal pins the help holding slats/flaps in place. Tried my best
The ResKit nozzles work well only if you reduce the length of its afterburner section. Also what should be cut short are the insertion sticks of ventral fins, they are too long and interfere with the burner cans.
I did not bother to fix the chaff/flare dispenser problem. I know they were 6 by 5 and Tamiya did it 5 by 5, I used up all my PEs on the dispenser boxes on my previous build (EF-18AM Spanish Hornet)
For the nose section, the VF-2 Bounty Hunter bands also came from AMK's spare sheet. Due to the bulged shape of AMK's nose, the colored bands should be reduced in length in order not to go under the missle pallets. I cut 2 or 3 millimeters short
The ResKit nozzles work well only if you reduce the length of its afterburner section. Also what should be cut short are the insertion sticks of ventral fins, they are too long and interfere with the burner cans.
Martin Absolutely wonderful and an inspiration to improve my skills.
12 March 2021, 14:58
ZHOU Kun thank you, i would be pleased if this project has inspired people🙂
12 March 2021, 15:47
Treehugger Could you say something please about how you airbrush this model, re, psi and anything related to the technical aspect of this hobby?
I personally struggle with finding a pipeline technique for airbrushing on a gloss coat, but I at least can airbrush primer and pain flawlessly, so at least I can stop worrying about that in particular. 😄
12 March 2021, 16:36
ZHOU Kun @Treehugger
I am using Mr. Color lacquer paints, as shown in most the WIP photos. It has advantages in smoothness, color and strength. Perhaps this is the reason why I usually dont pay too much attention to air pressure. My airbrush are two old PS-270 and PS-289. Hope this can help
12 March 2021, 23:53
Martin I wonder how you achieve those panel line effects. I have learned about pre-shading (going over the panel lines with black prior to base coat), and also the mottling technique (light random patterns over primer coat, followed by main color). Are you using these techniques or are you doing weathering after the gloss coat? Sorry, I am new to the hobby but ultimately want my airframes to look like yours do. I did not see any photos on the pre-shading though in your post which is why I ask. Thank you.
I used pre-shading and mottling technique before I apply main color. And a little weathering done with oil paint colors after the main color and decaling. You can visit my previous WIP albums, I had placed painting photos there:
This one is really near the finish line. Here are some photos I took when I was working on smaller parts:
Gear bay doors: I paint gloss white (Mr.Color C107 Character White) inside by airbrush, then hand brushed the red edges(also Mr. Color, Character red). Gray (Mr. Color, C308, the underside fuselage color) was the last color to apply, by airbrush. This method needed the least repairing. If the red color goes to the back of the panel, gray color will cover it and make the edge neat. The gear bay doors were easy to attach, Tamiya's engineering was great, you don't have to worry about how much angle should the doors be opened, everything just snapped in.
Also attached were the air data probes(pitot tubes, AOA probes, total air temperature probe) , arresting hook and its housing, UHF and TACAN antennas, port and starboard wing pylons(I would fit AIM-9Ms, AIM-7M, LANTIRN and some GBUs to this aircraft)
Finished on Mar 3,2021
Stay tuned for Final Reveal
Treehugger
ZHOU Kun
Martin
