Santa Clara alias La Niña
![Album image #1 Album image #1](/albums/img/7/6/0/1141760-32137-50-720.jpg)
Section 1: Vertical keel and frames
Parts required to complete this section
Parts required to complete this section
![Album image #2 Album image #2](/albums/img/7/6/1/1141761-32137-98-pristine.jpg)
Before placing the ribs in their particular slots, I thinned the stern part of the false keel to the thickness of approximately 1.5mm (see the bottom two pictures). Before starting the thinning process, a half-moon area was marked off on both the port and starboard sides (see the top two pictures).
![Album image #3 Album image #3](/albums/img/7/6/2/1141762-32137-71-720.jpg)
The false keel as seen from astern.
![Album image #4 Album image #4](/albums/img/7/6/5/1141765-32137-14-720.jpg)
The stern piece, part number 10 was first glued into place after the sprue attachment points were removed and sanded smooth. The false keel was clamped in an upright position and the part was left to dry over night in position.
![Album image #5 Album image #5](/albums/img/7/6/6/1141766-32137-41-720.jpg)
Part 03 to 09 (ribs) were cleaned up and holes were drilled, on both the port and starboard side of each rib, to accommodate wiring should I actually place lights in the model. This should not weaken the actual rib.
![Album image #6 Album image #6](/albums/img/7/6/7/1141767-32137-75-720.jpg)
Rib 06 to 09 were individually glued into position and clamped to dry at right angles using blocks of wood and clamps.
![Album image #7 Album image #7](/albums/img/7/6/8/1141768-32137-64-720.jpg)
Gluing rib 09 into position it was noted that it was a little loose fitting. I used this keel/hull holder to ensure that the rib dry at right angles.
![Album image #8 Album image #8](/albums/img/7/7/5/1141775-32137-71-pristine.jpg)
Part 02 to 10 glued into position.
![Album image #9 Album image #9](/albums/img/7/7/6/1141776-32137-64-pristine.jpg)
I dry fitted the main deck, secured the deck with elastic bands and inserted the masts. Everything was left to dry over night.
![Album image #10 Album image #10](/albums/img/7/8/2/1141782-32137-84-720.jpg)
Section 2: Main deck and bow and stern knightheads
Parts required to complete this section
Parts required to complete this section
![Album image #11 Album image #11](/albums/img/7/8/3/1141783-32137-23-720.jpg)
Parts 14, 15 and 16 cleaned up and glued into position. These parts are key to reinforce and form the hull.
![Album image #12 Album image #12](/albums/img/7/8/4/1141784-32137-37-720.jpg)
The decks of period ships have a distinct concave and convex camber. The concave camber is accurately depicted on the model, but no provision has been made to capture the convex part. In order to achieve this effect, I glued 4mm wide by 1mm thick planks on the false keel. When dry, the portions closest to the bow and stern will be filed to allow the deck to be glued flush with the actual false keel.
![Album image #13 Album image #13](/albums/img/2/5/3/1143253-32137-33-pristine.jpg)
To illustrate why I thought it necessary to change the shape of the main deck.
![Album image #14 Album image #14](/albums/img/7/8/6/1141786-32137-54-pristine.jpg)
After dry fitting the main deck and securing the part with elastic bands both the distinctive concave and convex shape can be clearly seen.
![Album image #15 Album image #15](/albums/img/2/3/6/1143236-32137-14-pristine.jpg)
Photograph A: While the main deck was secured, I marked at intervals where I plan to secure the main deck to the frame.
Photograph B: Drilling out the the places marked to prevent the wood from splitting.
Photograph C: I removed the main deck and applied white glue to where the false keel will make contact with the main deck. I then secure the deck with nails to the frame and applied more white glue on the edges of each frame. Because I have managed not only a concave, but a convex form in the main deck, I used more elastic bands to secure the deck in place and applied more glue to the areas between the false keel and the ribs.
Photograph B: Drilling out the the places marked to prevent the wood from splitting.
Photograph C: I removed the main deck and applied white glue to where the false keel will make contact with the main deck. I then secure the deck with nails to the frame and applied more white glue on the edges of each frame. Because I have managed not only a concave, but a convex form in the main deck, I used more elastic bands to secure the deck in place and applied more glue to the areas between the false keel and the ribs.
![Album image #16 Album image #16](/albums/img/4/7/3/1147473-32137-48-pristine.jpg)
With a medium grain file, file down the gap in the frame 10 (see red line), for the width of frame 10 until it is at the same level as the main deck plate.
![Album image #17 Album image #17](/albums/img/4/7/5/1147475-32137-88-720.jpg)
Section 3: Modelling the hull and plating on the main deck
Parts required to complete this section.
Parts required to complete this section.
![Album image #18 Album image #18](/albums/img/4/7/8/1147478-32137-18-pristine.jpg)
Proceed to round off the structure to remove any rough edges from the frames and strengths until a real curve is made and so that the hull can be suitably planked. Use a medium grain file and smooth off with a fine grain file. Use a plank placing it at different heights both on the bow and on the stern to ensure that it perfectly fits (makes maximum surface contact) with the curvature of the hull.
Kommentarer
33 5 January 2022, 19:26
![](/profiles/img/32137-155-s.jpg)
Welcome Ben, Guy and Lochsa.
I have started a new build which will be my second ship and not only in a different style to the Drakkar, but more complex as well. The Nina which was the smallest of Columbus' three ships.
For seasoned builders (which I do not claim to be) this kit is a relatively simple model, but I have set myself the following objectives:
Make a historical accurate model and depict the ship as it left Spain in 1492. There are very little known about the ships. I have therefore settled on what is considered to be a good reference book covering the three ships.
Post building log following the order indicated by the instructions of the model.
Correct the camber of the deck and try out nibbing the edges of the deck.
Light the model.
Making the first layer of planking as perfect as possible.
Paint the hull black below the water line to simulate the tar that was used to waterproof the ship.
5 January 2022, 20:39
![](/profiles/img/32137-155-s.jpg)
After securing the main deck in place, I will leave the parts to dry properly.
7 January 2022, 20:48
![](/profiles/img/55929-215-s.jpg)
Wooden ship modeling was the passion of my father!
Nice model chosen. I follow with interest. 🙂
9 January 2022, 14:38
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I've always wanted to build a wooden model ship or boat ,I'd like to build a wooden fishing boat ..looks awesome, watching with great interest
21 January 2022, 17:52
![](/profiles/img/32137-155-s.jpg)
@Fabrizio, you are welcome.
@Mona, this particular ship model is from Artesania Latina. Have a look at their website. I shows models for different skill levels.
21 January 2022, 18:00
![](/profiles/img/56165-775-s.jpg)
I never realised that ships had convex decks, but it does make sense. Water will drain overboard and as the ship rolls the shape will lessen the tilt of the deck making it easier for the crew to move around.
24 January 2022, 11:22
![](/profiles/img/65866-287-s.jpg)
Fascinating to watch this one come together and being made of wood makes it even more interesting. 👍👀
7 March 2022, 16:55