Kia Brisa - WIP
Washed.
Arrow: To remove the plating coating, I soaked it in bathroom cleaner, but it didn't come off after two days, so I removed it with tool cleaner.
Arrow: To remove the plating coating, I soaked it in bathroom cleaner, but it didn't come off after two days, so I removed it with tool cleaner.
The side mirrors will be removed, so I filled them with putty.
I don't know if this is the case with the real car, but the bumper doesn't fit snugly due to interference from the marked area, so I trimmed it down a bit.
The rear bumper shouldn't be trimmed too much because the reflector molds are in the same place on the opposite side.
The rear bumper shouldn't be trimmed too much because the reflector molds are in the same place on the opposite side.
The bottom of the front section looks empty without something it, so I'm going to attach a simple air-dam.
I think it would be appropriate to attach it at about this size and angle.
I made another one because the pla-plate, which was purchased about 20 years ago, was corroded and broke while cutting the edge.
That's better.
For some reason, I think it should be wide enough to cover the front wheel, but I like this.
For some reason, I think it should be wide enough to cover the front wheel, but I like this.
Black parts has a lot of push-pin marks because the material is softer.
I don't usually touch up these things, so...
I don't usually touch up these things, so...
I tried to temporary assemble the interior parts.
Fortunately, I decided not to fix it because it wouldn't be noticed at all after completion.
Fortunately, I decided not to fix it because it wouldn't be noticed at all after completion.
The suspension was the part of the kit I wanted to fix the most.
Because, I didn't like the small wheels and the high suspension, and the optical illusion makes the front look higher.
Because, I didn't like the small wheels and the high suspension, and the optical illusion makes the front look higher.
Started by working on the front suspension.
Cut off about 1.5 to 2.0 millimeters, then ...
Cut off about 1.5 to 2.0 millimeters, then ...
Just cut the paper-clip, insert it, and glue it.
It is simple because there is no interference from other parts.
It is simple because there is no interference from other parts.
Temporary applied.
I've made it an animated-Gif for easy comparison. (Rear suspension not yet)
Working with the rear suspension is a bit of a hassle, but it's simple.
A little shaving where indicated will lower it by about 0.5mm and...
A little shaving where indicated will lower it by about 0.5mm and...
One more thing...
You can cut the visible part in half, but it's hard to explain in words, so I drew a picture.
You can cut the visible part in half, but it's hard to explain in words, so I drew a picture.
1. Original male pin.
2. Cut off the front half of the male pin and glue it to the back of the female pin.
3. Now insert it into the front of the female pin.
2. Cut off the front half of the male pin and glue it to the back of the female pin.
3. Now insert it into the front of the female pin.
This will pull the torsion springs slightly forward, and consequently lower the height slightly. (Right Arrow)
I'll change it to metal shaft.
Applied with paper clip.
Applied insect pin.
It's going to feel roughly like this.
I tried the Gunmetal Surfacer of the Gaianots.
The metallic particles are large and not suitable for checking the surface condition, so I think I should just use metallic gray instead...
The metallic particles are large and not suitable for checking the surface condition, so I think I should just use metallic gray instead...
The first airbrush paint work.
I repainted the body with a plain gray surfacer.
I repainted the body with a plain gray surfacer.
Masks the inside of the door.
I accidentally masked the invert area.
I accidentally masked the invert area.
I did the masking properly again.
Painting...
Body: over coat clear smoke on the IPP stainless silver.
Arrow: I painted it with AK's Super Chrome and then coated it with Vallejo varnish. (Review - motorart.tistory.com/676)
Body: over coat clear smoke on the IPP stainless silver.
Arrow: I painted it with AK's Super Chrome and then coated it with Vallejo varnish. (Review - motorart.tistory.com/676)
Arrow: Overcoat with Tamiya X-18.
Clear coat x4
I added a darker layer of skin contrast.
Painted with paint brush.
I think I painted face for over an hour.
I gave up trying to draw an eye-line because I couldn't see it and it kept smudging.
That's why it looks like I've removed her eyes makeup.
I gave up trying to draw an eye-line because I couldn't see it and it kept smudging.
That's why it looks like I've removed her eyes makeup.
I used a swab to wipe off the necessary areas.
Polished.
Masked and painted with black surfacer.
The wheels were painted gunmetal, but I changed my mind and repainted them black.
The wheels were painted gunmetal, but I changed my mind and repainted them black.
I removed the masking tape, then I've got trouble.
It's not the clear coat peeling off, it's the mark of masking tape being pressed down.
The best solution in this case is to let it dry completely without touching it anymore.
It's not the clear coat peeling off, it's the mark of masking tape being pressed down.
The best solution in this case is to let it dry completely without touching it anymore.
Same trouble here.
Same trouble here.
Same trouble here.
When I checked the next day, the masking tape marks were almost gone.
There were a few small marks left, so I sanded them down.
There were a few small marks left, so I sanded them down.
Then, polished again.
Painted panel line.
Ready to assemble.
Assembling...
Assembling...
Assembling...
Interior done.
After assembling the interior, I couldn't put the figure in the driver's seat. It would be hard to see with the roof on anyway, so I'll have to put him in a convertible later.
I painted the reflect area with a chrome marker. (but I think probably didn't need to because of the body color)
Colored lamp covers are nice because they are injected in that color and don't need to be painted.
But the orange part looks like a little washed out.
But the orange part looks like a little washed out.
There are no holes drilled where the license plate attaches, although the back shows where to drill them.
Suddenly done. But...
There's still a lot of space between the front wheel and the fender.
I disassembled the front suspension again, this time cutting the neck to shorten it.
Fixed.
Compare.
Finished.
Finished.
Finished.
Thanks for watching.
Kommentarer
34 26 June 2023, 06:31
Jv
Again very impressed
Whed you detailed information on how you active your butiful builds
Interesting
Again very impressed
Whed you detailed information on how you active your butiful builds
Interesting
30 June 2023, 08:15
MS K
Thanks eveyone. I recommend this kit because of the low price and good quality.
Presumably, versions for overseas export will be merchandised as "Mazda Familia" from "KA-models".
Thanks eveyone. I recommend this kit because of the low price and good quality.
Presumably, versions for overseas export will be merchandised as "Mazda Familia" from "KA-models".
30 June 2023, 09:25
Jv
Yes I was abit confused about you calling it a kia
Have only seen that car as a Mazda
Yes I was abit confused about you calling it a kia
Have only seen that car as a Mazda
30 June 2023, 09:30
MS K
Thanks guys.
It's sorry about not included engine, but low price and the parts fit so well that I hadn't stress working on it.
Thanks guys.
It's sorry about not included engine, but low price and the parts fit so well that I hadn't stress working on it.
9 July 2023, 07:35
Kyle DeHart
No worries at all about that. I detail my engines and no one sees them anyways. I don't detail them and no one would ever know. You've still built a lovely model!
No worries at all about that. I detail my engines and no one sees them anyways. I don't detail them and no one would ever know. You've still built a lovely model!
9 July 2023, 08:38
Album info
FHD images here.
Part 1 - motorart.tistory.com/677