Wiadomości

Ben M
👀

Shar Dipree
Looks good so far.

M0rce
Taking a seat 😀

Guy Rump
Looking good, following. 👍

Nicolas
I got this kit on the to do list as well so I'm following. Nice start.

Robert Podkoński
Following, of course! I loved these "original" Kovozavody kits.

Łukasz Gliński
What a trip down the memory lane for just 3 bucks 😄 👍

Ben M
The fit on this kit…. Not great, not terrible.

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Ludvík Kružík
This really is a trip into history. I wish you well with your work on the model. And I'll be happy to follow the progress.

The drop tanks used on the Mig you are building are the original (older) version. They were attached directly to the wing (no hinge) and did not have stabilizing ailerons on the end. This type of tanks had one unpleasant feature. When dropping the empty tank, the tank rolled on the wing. This was annoying because it could damage the control surfaces. Therefore, these tanks were replaced by a new type with stabilizing surfaces at the end of the tank and these tanks were suspended on a wing hanger (tanks of this type are in the kit). This solution eliminated the rolling problem.

Ben M
Ludvik, thank you for the details. I did not know that. I imagine they usually did not drop the tanks on trainers.

I also masked the canopy last night. The molding of the frames are a bit vague and lots of curves so it will require some cleanup after painting.

Ludvík Kružík
Ben, you're right that trainer planes didn't usually drop tanks. In peacetime, in normal use, even combat aircraft don't drop tanks (except in emergency situations or exercises).

The purpose of my comment was merely to explain why the tanks on Indonesian aircraft differ from those in the kit.

I look forward to following your progress and wish you a lot of fun building the model and the result to your liking.

Mr D
Doing a nice job 👌
I would by one for 3$ anytime 🤣

Ben M
The fit on this kit is ludicrous. Having a lot of fun with it though.

Ben M
Well the other night I got frustrated with the Vallejo gloss black primer clogging my airbrush, so I added some Mr leveling thinner and gave it the worst orange peel ever as this is totally incompatible with the paint. I thought I could selectively strip the paint with windex but while that kind of stripped the paint it also dissolved a lot of the perfect plastic putty and also dissolved the canopy pva glue and masking. Also I broke off a wing and a horizontal stabilizer. So a bit of a setback.

I have constant problems getting the Vallejo gloss black primer to not clog my 0.4mm nozzle.

Robert Podkoński
Sorry to hear that, Ben...

Duster_d
It's sad, Ben. These Vallejo primers can only be diluted with distilled water because they are based on acrylic urethane (this is my IMHO). Even Vallejo's Thinner and Flow Improver for acrylic paints does not go well with these primers. The same applies to their polyurethane varnishes.

Martin Oostrom
Not saying this will solve your issue, but they have a video with ratios out: Youtube Video

Sy Bar
Wow that video seam to show it's a lot of hard work to get their primer coat working 👀
I'd go with mr surfacer 1500 approx 50:50 with mr levelling thinner, then if you need a gloss use mr Color gx110 again 50:50 with levelling thinner, sounds just as complex but I've never had this block airbrush and you can get rid of surface issue before you gloss saving the thicker gloss primer obscuring details..

Good luck on you build

Łukasz Gliński
Very sad nwes mate - hope to see you back on this project with the new kit, this one looks fubar unfortunately.

Ben M
I have not yet begun to fight. It is but a flesh wound.

Ben M
Painted some detail parts. Unlike the Vallejo primer, the metallics shoot like a dream. Started reassembly. I will have to re-putty and this kit needs a lot of putty. The canopy is a goopy fogged mess, I'm going to soak it in degreaser to hopefully strip off the future and start over on it.

Nicolas
What a mess. Good luck fixing it.

Finn
Following

Ludvík Kružík
The accident on your project is really unpleasant. I wish you a steady hand and a lot of patience in dealing with the aftermath.

Ben M
It's going okay. Not giving up is part of the fun for me.

M0rce
Wow, that looks like a tough kit...
Coming along nicely now though it seems.. 👍
Looking forward to updates.

Robert Podkoński
I'm impressed with your perseverance, Ben... Keep it up!

Ben M
I finally broke the pitot tube off, amazing it stayed on this long with all the handling I had to do. The second time I did the puttying I didn't sand things as smooth, live and learn. This kit has a lot of challenging fit issues. I think I will decal next. Fairly happy with the canopy, it was a bear to mask. The gun blast panel and air brakes came out nice, slight contrast with the rest of the nmf.

Ben M
Landing gear, drop tanks, and antennae on

Mr James
Great effect. Is that salt you've used

littleblackbear
Thanks a bunch. It's heavy chipping fluid on top of a black base coat, that I sprayed a highly diluted white overtop. Then chipped the heck out of it.

Unfortunately I'll be reworking a lot of this as I need to do some additional work to distort the gear on top and remove the rubber around the wheels and return rollers. But that's part of the fun of these destroyed kits; they're easily reworkable, and it's hard to truly mess up. 😂

Mr James
Ah I see. Its looks like a fun build. A good point about the rubber wheels. the idlers would at least caught fire. It looking damn good so far.

Rui S
Looking Great 👍 I'm in 😎

Tim
NIce

Villiers de Vos
Steady progress. Did you light the stern?

Thomas Wirsching
Great job so far! I would love to get an explanation about how to do these LED lighting in detail as I have no idea about this.

Hang Li
Thanks Tim, Villiers, and Thomas. I did put a led for the trolled sonar bay back at the stern. It is apparently not bright enough to be really visible. Probably not noticeable after finished.

I prefer to use Led tape light as it has build in resistors so I don't need do calculation to figure out the resistor value. Once that is sorted, what left is just connect the led unit with a battery and a switch. I think it is better to ask a trained electrician as the circiut I built don't last long and I don't really know why.

Michael Kohl
I expect modelling of the highest quality from your bench. So far I am not disappointed. 🙂
Keep it up.

Treehugger
Hm, how long did it take to make the nice looking ocean surface? It certainly looks like a fun project.
I wish I knew how to make such ocean surfaces, as it really seem to complete a model with such a diorama.

I am no expert on led's but my impression is that one has to be careful that the voltage to the led's is controlled to specs, so they don't burn out shortly after and end up being un-repairable inside the model. Also, something about connecting led's in parallel, pattern iirc, to avoid one dead led blacking out all the rest of the leds in a serial connection, iirc.

Thomas Wirsching
Your build is already mindblowing; 漂亮]!

Tim
Your sea base is looking really nice.

Hang Li
Thanks Treehugger, THomas and Tim.
As for the sea base, you can check a YouTube channel called ''studio blue ocean'', I basically followed his videos. And treehugger did a pretty good summary for LEDs. The voltages is very important and it is always needed to put some resistors in series to potect the LEDs. The size of the resistors can be calculated with ohms' law. There are small circuit boards for LEDs which can be used to make everything easier.

Rui S
Impressive work 👍

Villiers de Vos
Fantastic work with all the photoetch parts. Your attention to detail shows.

Thomas Wirsching
Getting better and better; can you please show us a detail picture from the inside of the hangar? Did you build this from scratch?