Wiadomości

Martin Oostrom
I spent a couple of hours cleaning up some parts that I cut of the frame

Bozzer
These curbside chassis, really upset me. Just like the Volvo VN. If the manufacturer, went to the trouble, of making an engine, and separate frame parts, with other kits, then why would they cheap out, on kits like these? I love what you're doing with this though. Keep the pictures coming, buddy 👍

Martin Oostrom
I didn't put up pictures of all the cutting and sanding. A summary:
All parts are cut, sanded and glued where possible. Only a few drops of filler were needed.
The cab consists of 10 parts that need to be positioned just right. **** job, but I think I managed.
Next up: Primer.

Martin Oostrom
And primer is on after a monster session. 200ml primer + 50ml SLT = just enough.
Primer is zero paints grey. But a dirty grey.

bughunter
Watching!

Martin Oostrom
Tamiya Bright Red for the chassis and Zero stone grey as main colour for the interior

Martin Oostrom
The Zero stone grey was a bit depressing, so I mixed a batch 50/50 with white to lighten things up a bit.
Tamiya aluminium was airbrushed, and Tamiya black as well.
Done with airbrushing for now. Letting the paint cure before decalling.

Qwertzel
Looking great so far!

Bozzer
Bravo mate!
Are those bolt heads, part of the kit?

Martin Oostrom
Thanks lads. The bolt heads are kit parts. Just moulded on.

Bozzer
That's pretty good moulding. I thought they were PE mate.
I'll get some pictures up myself, tomorrow, of what I've been up to?
It's been a rollercoaster, that's for sure!

Goldman
Great progress with the DAF

I do hope Revell will re-release all of its classic and colorful kits like this one. It will looks amazing with all the decals.

Martin Oostrom
Started with the decals. They're a bit older and fragile. Should have read the instructions better. Would have made life a bit easier now.
I don't know what Revell were thinking, but some of the curves are too steep for these decals. It takes a lot of softener, a hairdryer and a boatload of patience to get them right. Even then they tore in places. And I've only done 5 pieces.

Bozzer
Sorry to hear about your bad experience mate.
However, it's definitely made a difference, and I know, that it looks bloody fantastic!
This is why I'm not a big fan of decals. It's the worst part of any build, for me. Hence why I push myself, with my airbrushing? But, I have to be in the correct mood, in the correct conditions.
The decals on my Turnpiker, were terrible. The amount of decals softener that I used, started to affect the clear coat. Next time, I'm going to airbrush everything, and then put them both together, so you guys can give me your honest verdict.
But to try and airbrush those beautiful decals, that you have there, would take me years!
Do you think, you would have been better trying to copy them on your own decal paper, and trying it that way?

bughunter
What I hate most about working with decals is the fact that there are no spare ones (at least for older, no more available kits).
So I wish you a huge amount of patience and luck! Take care, it will look great 👍

Martin Oostrom
The overall quality of the decals is well enough. Thin, almost no decal film on the edges. It's just that on the rear of the cab, the trenches are so deep. Luckily this is the only part that has this. The roof has some extending bits, but there are seperate decals for those.
My life would have been a bit easier if I'd read the instructions more carefully. Revell wants you to decal some pieces, before glueing. That way all edges are nicely covered. I'm an advanced modeler, so I just did my thing...

The artwork on this one is a bit too complicated to airbrush, it would take me more than a few years.
It might take some time, but I'll finish this job in the end 😄

bughunter
If nothing else works read the F$!%ing Manual !🤣🤣🤣

Goldman
Before starting to use a complex or questionable decal sheet I take a high resolution photo of it with my phone (an old school flat-bed scanner will be even better). My reasoning is that if I mess the decals I would be able to print a new sheet somehow. Luckily never had to actually test this theory so far...

Martin Oostrom
RTFM is overrated.
Good idea Goldman. Should give that a go on future builds.

Martin Oostrom
Decals on the cab are done. Helluva job

Bozzer
Cracking job, on that cab, mate!
I'm glad you opened up the grill, it makes a hell of a difference!
Take your time with this now, because it'd be a shame if something went wrong, at the final fence?
This was always destined to be an epic build. I can't wait to see it married upto the trailer

bughunter
Marvellous!

Martin Oostrom
I found the missing decal for on the nose. That'll need placing and then it's onto the trailer

Christian W
When I see the decal work I know, why I'm not building racecars. I'd going crazy with all the roundings and millions of decals.

Bozzer
I'm glad to see, that it's not just me, who does all this type of prep work. I've spent far too much time and money, on tools, gizmo's and fabrication of various things, just to try and speed up this process. Yet, I still end up falling back to the back of a #11 knife blade!
I'll hang around for this one mate, mainly to see the outcome of those amazing decals. But also to watch how the trailer goes together?
I helped my son build the Spacecab, way back in the early 2000's. He didn't enjoy it and abandoned his efforts 🙁 No wonder he became a plumber 😛

Martin Oostrom
Kerry Cox taught Peter Hardy and Peter taught me: "Better remove those lines, you'll always know they're there."
I mostly use the cutting edge of the blade to scrape, I'll try the back sometime.
I assembled the chassis today and it seems perfectly straight. A lot of work remains before I can start on the decals.

Bozzer
If you draw the edge, of the back of the blade, it gives you a nice smooth, flat surface. It also doesn't dull your sharp blade? After a while, it becomes second nature. I have found, that those nasty mold lines, show up even more, when paint is applied? Even when I glue two parts together, it's always the back of the knife, that deals with the seam. You should definitely try it, and see if you notice the difference.

Lode Schildermans
Following. Martin and trucks and trailers, always surprising

Bozzer
He's got this, Lode. Martin is the Plastic Surgeon 😉

Spanjaard
I am in 🙂

Martin Oostrom
The doctor is in 😄
I managed some work on the axles Tuesday evening and I had half a day to myself yesterday. So I built the box with a lot of added plastic to get everything squared. I'll be sanding the outside and I don't want the thing to fold.
The mudflaps were unconvincing , so I went to town on them. Your opinions please?

Bozzer
I've heard of guys, filling in reefers, with expanding foam?
I've never personally done it, because I like the option of opening doors. Those mudflaps look so much better now, too.

Martin Oostrom
Mmm, insulation foam in a reefer….
There is/was a load of cyanide in that stuff. Not something I want to emit in my hobby room.
My 2k also contains cyanide, but those vapours are mainly vented outside

Bozzer
I have never checked mate, and I've used it for sealing gaps, etc, for decades? However, I've definitely not used it on any models. In fairness though, all my current reefers are from AMT. I love the fact that they use 1 piece plastic, for the sides, base and top. It definitely makes them sturdy. I do have a few Italeri reefers though, and I was thinking about lining them with thin plastic? I don't want to compromise the look, so I thought maybe some 1mm sheet, would work? What do you think mate?

Martin Oostrom
Lining with 1mm sheet is a possibility, but … see my new picture. On both sides there are two half rods running the whole length of the trailer and the ceiling is littered with protruding ejection marks.
The floor is smooth as the ejection marks are on the underside.
This Revell edition has water slide decals, the Italeri reefer I have has two big stickers for each side. Will be hell to line up, so I'll probably paint something.

Bozzer
On large decals, it's best to cut them into 3. It just makes things easier. I honestly wouldn't have a clue what to do with stickers though? That's exactly what I have, on my Smokey and the Bandit 2 trailer.
Which reminds me...
Jerry from Modeltruckin, is retiring. Last orders are being taken upto end of July. Get them decals ordered mate, before you can't get them again!

Bozzer
I just took a closer look at your pictures. I see those rails now. I'm guessing that they were a feature, to stop pallets from ramming up tight to the side, on the 1:1 version? The injection pin marks, I can Dremel away. You've actually got me thinking about digging out one of my reefers now, lol

Martin Oostrom
In the real one, there will be a strip with slits to secure the cargo. But those are generally not that high and low. See picture.

Bill Newcomer
Late to the party. (I have been really busy with my wife's garden and my 1:1 car) Following. Making your box square and straight looks like quite the endeavor.

Martin Oostrom
Dry fitting the door showed a small gap between them. I later added a strip of styrene to the back. Stiffening the doors by accident.
I removed the moulded rear lights, only realising too late that they're hollow. A thin sheet of styrene helped. I also glued a strip to the storage bins. Too much sanding otherwise. Now all trailer parts are ready for painting.

Lode Schildermans
Definitely impressed, Martin. Smart building by improving stability in the beginning of the build. I particularly like the improvements with styrene

Martin Oostrom
Don't tell anybody Lode. There'll be some pe on it. 🤫

Bozzer
I wonder if that PE is going to be the bars and locking system, for the back doors?

Lode Schildermans
I shall be silent as a grave, Martin

Martin Oostrom
Wait and see Bozzer!

Bozzer
Oh Martin, you tease! 😛

Martin Oostrom
Primer's on! It took over 4 hours to paint the truck and trailer in my tiny booth.

Lode Schildermans
But the result is a success. Looking forward to see your progress of this big one

Gerald
👍

Martin Oostrom
First colours are here. Tamiya bright red, Tamiya silver and not shown, Tamiya aluminium straight from the can on the reefer itself.

Bozzer
Excellent colour choices, mate. This build is exciting me 😄

Bill Newcomer
Color, Always good to see color. 🙂

Martin Oostrom
For the first time in forever I follow the colour callouts from the instructions, and now my choices are excellent. Makes me wonder…
Enjoy the colours while you can, this thing will be wrapped in decals when she's done.

Bozzer
Lol, maybe because it's more true to life?
Although I have to admit, I've crawled under a few trailers, and they were all the same, light rust/brown colour. Even on fleet management, the chassis and underneath, never get washed. I do a lot of work for a global logistics company and their trucks always look clean, but they're not. My brother works for a national retailer, driving big rigs. I asked him when he washes the underside of his trailer? His answer was priceless, but unfortunately, unprintable 😉

Martin Oostrom
I actually had red oxide primer in mind for the red parts, but didn't at the last moment!
I also never wash the underside of my car. And I've worked in port, so I can imagine some colourful language.

Done with airbrushing for now. Only some detail painting to do.
And after curing, it's decals time!

Goldman
Good luck with these decals. Hope the decal spray will do its magic.

Spanjaard
fingers crossed

Bozzer
Mate, please do as Goldman suggested on your other thread, and take pictures of these?
It's definitely worth a try? I can't bear to hear the screams, if the decals spray doesn't work.
We need you to be successful on this, to raise the bar, and give the rest of us, something to reach for?
God speed, my friend, and good luck 👍

Martin Oostrom
Yes sir Big Bozzer sir!
Thank you guys for all the encouragement

Martin Oostrom
It seems to work on the first two pieces 🤞🏻
I'll let these cure for a while, to avoid moving them when doing the two large decals

bughunter
👍 Good luck!

Spanjaard
mission accomplished my friend, well done!!! now let's do (tomorrow?) the other side 🙂

bughunter
Pic 48: definitely LOVE 👍

Bozzer
Sorry for the FB link, but I think that looks awesome! And really, they made it look so easy?

Bozzer
Martin, you pulled it out of the bag!
I was nervous for you, on those big decals, but mate, you made it look like a pro!
Kudos to you, and I hope you celebrate with a few cold beers!

schecter87
As I can see - you're using Micro Sol solution. Have you tried Tamiya Super Strong in a black bottle (It should be used carefully and needs a bit of experience to use, but it softens decal very fast)? When I first used Mark Fit Super Strong, it was like a revelation to me 🙂 But I never used Micro Sol, so I don't know of how it works.

Martin Oostrom
That truck is awesome Bozzer! Really enjoyed that video.
Only the starboard large decal left 🤞🏻

And then hoping that the clear coat won't do anything funny. I got two spray cans of Mr Top Coat gloss. According to the internet, that should do fine 🤞🏻

Hi Scheckter, I use a combination of micro sol and heat. Apply some Sol, let it work a little, press with a soft brush or que tip. Repeat a hundred times or more to get everything where I want it.
I'm careful with these old decals and extra hot decal softener.

Martin Oostrom
Clearcoat with Mr Topcoat acrylic gloss. straight from the rattle can, due to spray booth size limitations. Not so sure yet about the result.

Spanjaard
seems quite good so far!

Bozzer
I'd let it dry fully, then reassess it. If you're still not happy, try another coat? I'm always nervous about rattle can gloss coats, ever since I had that crazing. I nearly always now, use Tamiya through the airbrush.

Lode Schildermans
Mindblowing result so far. I'd like to see that beauty once with my own eyes, Martin

Peter Hardy
Hmmm. Martin's getting good at this model building thing. [Mental note to myself… Get better Peter! Faster!]

M0rce
Hi all.
I have a video about my progress on this kit on YouTube of you are interested.
Youtube Video
Thanks

Ben M
Taking a seat

M0rce
Welcome.
Want a 🍺?

Tim
Great

nikfrost
Looking good. What options do you get for the trawlers name?

Greg Baker
After a quick study of Uwe's album… here we go!

Robert Podkoński
Taking a seat!

Alex K
So do I!

Uwe Kaeding
Go for it Greg - not much room for wiring though! I also thought you'd go for one of the AVI/LF styrene kits.

Greg Baker
If I hadn't got excited and spent $35 on this kit 5 years ago after seeing your build, I probably would've gone with the styrene - they do look really good. Oh, well, we work with what we've got...

Of course... that's only until I figure out that the correct version of the Puss Moth is the Mk. V and not the Mk. XIV and then I can't unsee the problems... 🙂

Greg Baker
As for the wiring, I've drilled out the engine cowling to create enough room to slot in the DC motor. It's VERY tight and I was very careful not to breach the surface. I haven't tested it yet, but I think I was able to get close enough. The small DC motors always have such a small shaft, which can be helpful but sometimes creates a challenge. I'll run two thin wires out and then hide them behind a small, scratchbuilt control panel. Then under the styrene floor and down through a hole in the underside of the fuselage. I'll have to put a resistor on it in the base, otherwise the motor will likely spin this little plan apart. 🙂

Живко Джаков
This is interesting! I'm following. I have a question. How do you connect the motor to the propeller?

Greg Baker
Because I can't quite get the DC motor out of the engine cowling due to the size, I'll have to add a styrene rod to the propellor and then have it go into the cowling. To attach it to the motor itself, I'll likely drill a small hole (about the same diameter as the DC motor shaft) into the short styrene rod and then fit it to the motor shaft with a tiny bit of CA glue (making sure not to get the glue INTO the motor itself). Then I'll glue to styrene rod to the propellor. It'll be tricky to keep everything centred, otherwise the spin will be off. I'll take lots of pictures to show the process... if it works. 😉

Живко Джаков
I am asking about the centering. I have some experience with DC motors. I have several similar ones collected from children's toys, but I dare not try.

Finn
Joining

Greg Baker
Centering... well now... usually what I do is drill a hole as close to the centre as I can manage it... then I drill a little bit this way... then a little bit that way... then I slice the rod until I get a bit that is arguably in the centre...

Then I ignore the wobble. 🙂

Thomas Espe
👀

Greg Baker
Alright. Some progress. I have out some of the cockpit to make room for the extra windows. I was as eloquent as Uwe, so I covered my mistakes up with some thin sheet polystyrene. Put in some wires to reinforce the wings, and got the propeller spinning. So far so good, I think.

Matthew A
Cor

Cuajete
I can't miss this!

Greg Baker
Wings attached and engine mounted.

Casey Beckett
OOH. An Omega kit - I have one of their BN Islanders - Watching this one.

Greg Baker
Got the fuselage more or less put together and painted the interior. Next up will be fitting in the windows… if I'm not back in a day or two, notify the authorities. 😉

Живко Джаков
If I have to report you missing to North Shore Rescue it will be easy.

Cuajete
The frame of those windows seems very fragile being resin. You have great skill, Greg!

Greg Baker
Thanks Cuajete - the resin is quite tricky to work with and I had to add in some extra windows, so it was a bit touch and go. I did copy Uwe's idea to use some wire supports to both hold the wings on and provide some structural stability. The only problem is that I put one of them in the wrong spot and had to cut it out to remove and replace it.

Skyhiker
I made it just in time.

Greg Baker
After an enormous amount of fiddling, I finally got the windows in place and Tintin, Snowy, and the medical kit seated. Now I can start to close it up. Thanks god.

Erik De Smet
Nice project again. A resin kit is always tricky and the tiny parts fragile, especially the u\c. Luckily this one will be flying. btw , Greg, do you mind making the propeller spinning in the opposite direction, so that it pushes itself in place ? I did it on some of my models, it is hardly visible . The main advantage is that you don't need to glue the propeller to the motor axle with ca, just a little bit of tacky paste inside the propeller tube will be enough.

bughunter
Greg is building an Omega resin bird 👍 I have some in my stash - in 1:48 as usual - but have not started one until now.

Greg Baker
You're right, Erik. I replaced almost the entire upper canopy framing with polystyrene and wire. I had to add some windows to this kit and wanted some consistency in the thickness of the frame. It was tricky to get everything glued in place, but I got it done more or less to my satisfaction. I'm hesitant to add the u/c elements because they seem rather fragile, but you're also right that it being in-flight will help a lot.

Greg Baker
I'm intrigued by the opposite spinning propellor idea. I can see where that might make things easier. Hmmmm...

Lode Schildermans
I'm in

Nicolas
Missed this one. Joining the fun.

Greg Baker
You haven't missed much... I had to redo much of the canopy... updated photos coming soon~

Lode Schildermans
I'll take a seat as well 🙂

Greg Baker
And... we're back. As I mentioned, the canopy basically fell apart while trying to install the windows, but it seems to be stable now. I also added a small tail wheel (as in the reference image) that I scavenged from the spares box. Next up, paint it pink and fix any issues that reveals. 🙂

Spanjaard
I will seat next to Lode 🙂

Cuajete
Great, Greg! 👍

gorby
Nice work on what looks like a challenging kit.

Moreno Baruffini
Wow, very nice work 👍🏻

gorby
The trees look good.

nikfrost
Amazing job, well done!