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![1:48 US WWII Pitot Tube "Shark Fin" Type (Master AM-48-156) AM-48-156](/products/img/9/2/5/1218925-19715-53-t180.jpg)
US WWII Pitot Tube "Shark Fin" Type used on P-36, P-39, P-40, P-47, A-36, B-25 and many more
Master 1:48
AM-48-156 2019 Nowe formy 27 August, 18:14
![](/profiles/img/66321-723-s.png)
dodał nowy album.
52 zdjęć/zdjęcia
Sherman BARV![View album, image #52 View album, image #52](/albums/img/7/1/5/1793715-66321-32-720.jpg)
1:35
Last addition before continuing with the paintwork: a ring bent from copper wire. This was a guide for the cable when th...
Projekt: Sherman BARV, D-Day
29 2 July, 20:50
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I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
5 July, 06:33
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> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
5 July, 08:53
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@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
9 July, 08:59
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Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
9 July, 11:58
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Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
9 July, 13:30
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@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
9 July, 17:09
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Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
11 July, 12:55
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I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
11 July, 17:41
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I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
16 July, 15:17
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Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
16 July, 17:21
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Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
25 July, 21:06
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Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
26 July, 08:57
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dodał nowy album.
17 23 August, 22:16
![](/profiles/img/28990-233-s.jpg)
posiada ten przedmiot
![1:35 Tiger I 100# initial production detail set (Rye Field Model RM-2016) RM-2016](/products/img/8/4/4/1352844-38473-93-t180.jpg)
Upgrade Solution Series
Tiger I 100# initial production detail set for RFM 5075 Rye Field Model (RFM) 1:35
RM-2016 (2016) 2021 Nowe formy 27 August, 18:05
![](/profiles/img/46353-400-s.jpg)
dodał nowy album.
97 zdjęć/zdjęcia
Red Star Bombers: SNA Tu-16K-26 BADGER G![View album, image #95 View album, image #95](/albums/img/9/6/8/1792968-46353-30-720.jpg)
1:72
Projekt: Red Star Bombers: Tu-16 BADGER G
46 27 July, 03:57
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Looking good, following. 👍 What do you use the Novus scratch remover for? Is it any good?
27 July, 07:06
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I use it as a final step before priming to polish out tiny scratches. Also use it on clear parts - I think it gives a more realistic shine to clear parts than Pledge floor wax. First found out about it when I had to polish out a canopy that required a good bit of sanding.
28 July, 03:18
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Quite interesting! Well done, great work on an not so often seen subject.
24 August, 07:04
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What an absolute beast! Really beautiful. I will definitely look into the Novus scratch remover set. Does it leave some kind of residue on the plastic (like the Tamiya polishing compounds)?
24 August, 19:57
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Thomas - easily cleaned with a lightly dampened cotton ear bud - I use the anti-static/dust/fog prep from the blue bottle as a final for the canopies. Overall, this process leaves a finish better and more natural looking than what I've seen from dipping in Future.
25 August, 13:24
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It definitely looks intimidating. Great paintjob too, I like the subtle variation of the gray livery!
27 August, 17:33
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Eduard issued kit no. 7083 (Bf-110E Profipack) as a new tool in 2012. In 2023 they issued a re-release of the same kit but with a new box and new decals but still used the original kit no. The latter kit is not currently in the Scalemates database. How does one resolve the duplicate kit number situation when entering the latter kit?
26 August, 09:18
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