Black Beauty - Porsche 944 Turbo
Komentarzy
63 3 June 2021, 12:26
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Hi Alex! I recently finished this kit, (funnily enough also in black 2k). I found the weakest aspect was the dash board which looks quite inaccurate, so I 3D printed an improved one (based on my own car). If you are interested and would like to purchase one for your kit, just get in touch! Tom.
3 June 2021, 12:49
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Hey Tom, welcome to the thread!
Did not get my hand on the cockpit parts yet but that is good to know. I read a bit up on the car history and it was mentioned that the cockpit received an upgrade at some point. Maybe that was the case for the inaccuracy? Would love to see some pictures of your build 👍
3 June 2021, 13:09
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Mr Shiny with another tutorial, front row seat please. Will bring beer and snacks!
3 June 2021, 16:06
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Sweet! Very interesting subject.
Where did you get that ZoomOn set? I need to get this and the Ferrari set too...
Behold: ye shall be witness of butts getting oiled!
3 June 2021, 19:14
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Plenty of front row seats left, Martin. And I hope you brought some sophisticated Dutch brew from backyard breweries and none of that commercial Heineken "Pisswasser" 😄
Dennis, bought the set from a French eBayer. It is even more extensive than the one on the product picture here on SCM, might do an update.
https://ebay.de/itm/23399643.._trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
He has got much more good stuff, worth a quick browse through the shop. Shipping costs are adequate, too.
3 June 2021, 19:28
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I can recommend a nice La Chouffe Houblon. Way better than Pißwasser!
3 June 2021, 20:29
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Regarding that 2k Putty: does it shrink? Is it scribeable? How long is the drying time? I also guess that it will not be affected by whatsoever paint once dryed up?
My next Project is having some major sinkmarks on the Bodywork and i will need some putty "to rely on".
4 June 2021, 13:32
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Does it shrink? - NO. This is probably the whole point of using it in the first place.
Is it scribeable? - Just the putty tends to be a little brittle sometimes, but by adding the resin it acquires some elasticity.
How long is drying time? - It depends on the temperature and the amount you are mixing up (also the amount of hardener you use) If you mix up a big batch it cures in about 10-15 minutes, small amounts tend to cure a bit longer. The surrounding temperature is essential as well. The warmer it is the faster it cures. Also adding the resin makes it cure a bit longer. I normally leave it for a couple of hours just to make sure.
You can paint it over with absolutely anything. Since it is 2K it is chemically bound in itself and does not dissolve after curing.
4 June 2021, 13:58
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Just checked: again pricing is ridiculous low. Found this polyester stuff on eBay for about 5,00€/250g and that polyester resin for 8,00€/250g... aaaand: ordered!
4 June 2021, 14:57
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I may not be into cars, but your masterclass is going to be both addictive and very useful. Many thanks for taking the trouble to share your knowledge 🙂
4 June 2021, 16:42
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Wow Alexander, what a lovely build and tutorial! Thank you very much for that!
I think you mentioned only the hardening time of the 2k Putty. But what about the curing time for the 2k Primer (and paint)? Especially how much time do you have to clean the airbrush? Also with alcohol, or "Revell Airbrush Clean"? Thx!
8 June 2021, 12:09
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2K primer curing time: It depends. Temperature and thickness of coat play a major role. I found that after 3 hours at room temp it could be sanded. Usually I leave it over night.
2K clear: needs much longer at room temp. Dry to touch after around 3 hours. Can be sanded and polished after 24 hours but I usually leave it AT LEAST 1-2 weeks before polishing because it needs that much to cure completely and get rid of the last bits of solvents trapped inside. If you polish it too early it looks fine at first but the clear "sinks in" and you might as well sand and polish again.
To speed up the curing you can "bake" all 2K materials at 60°C in your oven if your wife doesn't mind the cake smelling like paint thinner afterwards 😄. This is literally what is done in car paint repair shops, they have big ovens where the paint is drying. Higher temperature = faster chemical reaction in the paint. It cures at 60°C/1 hour as much as at 20°C/24 hours. Jokes aside, I would not recommend this method for a plastic model.
Cleaning: I wouldn't leave 2K stuff in my airbrush for longer than 1 hour. I clean all the lacquer/enamel stuff with Acetone, paints like Tamiya with spiritus and water based stuff like Vallejo with their own cleaners (window cleaner works too)
8 June 2021, 12:40
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Regarding cleaning your Airbrush:
i can only tell from Zero Paints 2k daimond clear (but i presume that this stuff shown here is quite similar) that i clean my Airbrush with Revell Airbrush Clean afterwards an it works fine.
8 June 2021, 13:29
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For cleaning I use regular Mr Color Thinner.
For holding I use the Tamiya Spray Stand, with a bit of wide masking tape over the metal springs holding the body.
Nice work Alexander 👍
8 June 2021, 15:04
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Hey guys. Forgot to add - of course you can use other organic solvents for cleaning the airbrush. I actually use Revell Airbrush Clean too at the very end of my cleaning process. I leave some of it in the airbrush. It does not evaporate that quickly like aceton and it prevents the needle to get stuck overnight if you did just a "spray cleaning" without disassembly. Thinners work fine too, since they literally are meant for dissolving the paint. You just have to be careful with some thinners because they can eat away your airbrush sealings. I replaced all the rubber sealings with ones from PTFE (teflon) in my H&S airbrushes. At least in areas where there is contact with paint. Just in case.
I have seen your contraption, Martin. Actually that gave me the idea to present my own method of holding the car body.
8 June 2021, 17:26
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Great info you are sharing Alex, thanks very much. Question on using the silicone remover: you state that you simply allow it to evaporate (I.e. no rinsing or wiping). Would the oils and other "dirt" just stay behind once the cleaner evaporates? Just wondering how that works.
12 June 2021, 12:53
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The silicone remover does one thing: breaking down the oils and fats on the surface into compounds that do not interfere with the adhesion of the paint. You can wipe it off additionally if you like, but doing so you only contaminate the surface with additional dust and fibers from the cloth, the other arch enemy of every paintjob. This is why I am not doing it.
12 June 2021, 13:37
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By applying it with a thick, soft brush you kinda do the "wiping" already and if you are very generous with the stuff you can rinse the body with it I guess, collecting it in a container below.
12 June 2021, 13:39
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Makes sense. Thanks for the detailed answer and again, for great tutorial 👍
12 June 2021, 14:13
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So you use the mr.leveling thinner only for the primer, rest is the thinner that came with the 2k lacquer correct?
I am going the same way in dust protection. As an addition you can put some soaking wet tissue paper in your spraying booth plus „fog" your working place with water (I use my airbrush for that purpose) That binds all the remaining dust.
But you are absolutely right: one will NEVER achieve a complete dust free paintjob. It is quite impossible.
13 June 2021, 11:53
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BTW. Your extraction system looks very pro gaming level. Can you tell us bit more about the device itself? Looks very interesting.
13 June 2021, 11:55
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"So you use the mr.leveling thinner only for the primer, rest is the thinner that came with the 2k lacquer correct?" - Exactly. Since the plastic body is protected we can work with the "normal" lacquer thinners. I did try the 2K clear on my test subjects with the leveling thinner and it also works perfectly.
I do the "fogging" too with my water spray bottle, even inbetween coats when the body is coveredby the plastic container I do another "moisting" round.
The cabin was a very lucky catch for me. Found it on "Kleinanzeigen" when I was looking for something to replace my old cabin which I made from a kitchen fumehood. An old airbrusher who gave up his hobby was selling it with tons of other stuff (He worked at the Harder & Steenbeck factory) including tons of spare parts for H&S airbrushes. It is a custom build reworked from a welding fume hood. Has some real power. I did a little upgrade, added some more lights and an exhaust hose.
Was just pure, stupid luck and I do not want to take credit for that but sometimes the luck finds you I guess 🙂
Martin, I ain't even mad!
13 June 2021, 17:39
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Great wip. Like the step by step description. The paintjob is awesome!
14 June 2021, 10:17
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Your system is easy to follow with no 'riddles' in between each step. Most helpful and the tips are most welcome. A wonderful result. ! 👍 🙂
14 June 2021, 10:29
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Wow, some great info here, Alex! And the results speak for themselves so far!
14 June 2021, 11:29
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Thx guys. I will let the paint cure for two weeks and I am conveniently off on a two week vacation. So, to be continued!
14 June 2021, 21:01
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Hi guys. I am still alive! Started a new job in July which demands much energy and time plus I had some health issues inbetween so things have been pretty stressful last two months. Working bench was out of reach. I hope I can continue this project soon. Take care!
7 September 2021, 20:55
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Yeah we want our mr. Shiny! There are butts in need of proper oiling 😂 🤪
Take care and take it easy buddy 👍🏽
8 September 2021, 17:34
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Gents, it's been a while. Work got in the way but I finally want to finish this black beauty...
18 April 2022, 15:53
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Good morning Martin. Alex I apologise for my tardy Dutch friend. (A bit slow if you know what I mean)!
19 April 2022, 03:41
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Tape around the drill chuck. Alex G, I would never have thought of that! And yes, I have ruined paint by having a spinning chuck hit the painted plastic! Beautiful finish too! Kudos my friend!
19 April 2022, 22:12
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In consonance with the magnificent exterior, you did an awesome interior
20 April 2022, 19:08
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Oh yes, I like the leather! And thank you very much for the detailed description of the 2K painting and polishing. I hope I don't need it for my old struts, but just in case, I know where to look 😉
20 April 2022, 19:30
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Great work! I'm impressed. What are your tools to polish the windscreen? Especially from the inside? It is one part of the work, what is a pain in the a$$ on that kind of windows (wrapped around / no seperate pieces)
22 April 2022, 06:59
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Thx mates!
Hi Christian, the exact same method I used for the body. Just scroll a couple of pictures back 😉
22 April 2022, 07:12
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You wrote that. Right. I could have figured it out myself 😉 I almost never have the nerve for this kind of sanding and polishing. Respect.
22 April 2022, 08:45
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It is a tedious job, but quite meditative and relaxing at the same time I must say. 😄 And it is definitely worth the effort.
22 April 2022, 09:58
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Alexander, what impresses me most is your flexibility to achieve fantastic results in all areas. Many mates here specialise in a certain area, like some with jets, others with military vehicles, me with my biplanes - each subject has certain characteristics of its own.
But you really can do it all 👍
22 April 2022, 17:31
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Beautiful build. I particularly appreciate you detailling your techniques. I am keen about further progress.
25 April 2022, 11:35
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thx Michael, I picked up many useful techniques from other modelers myself, so I would like to return the favor.
bughunter, specializing in one area means missing out in other areas and there are so many great kits to build and topics to explore. Plus I like the variety. If I get bored by cars, the next project is an airplane, after that military. Then the cycle repeats.
25 April 2022, 13:57
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Clean and wonderful. I just love it. The colors of the exhaust system are perfect.
25 April 2022, 19:14
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Alexander, good way to avoid to get bored. But you are right regarding great kits! For me it would mean buying too much! The focus on one topic helps with regarding stash size 😉
25 April 2022, 19:31
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Great. The engine and exhaust system is really good. The details of the kit are as good as well! I thought, it's like the curb side thing by Italeri. So the Revell kit is definitely the better choice. It is all oob like you wrote? I mean the parts 😉 No parts added by you?
Really good. Each part you handled.
25 April 2022, 20:45
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Hi Christian. I am not familiar with the Italeri kit. This one is from Hasegawa molds and probably the better choice. Well it's not all OOB, i modified the nody a bit, got rid of the door trims, replaced the door handles. Added the seatbelts, scratch built the trunk cover. I left the engine OOB, it is quite good for 1:24.
26 April 2022, 08:56
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Again, thanks a lot guys! Finally was able to make proper final pictures and complete this WIP album. Thanks for your patience, I did not plan for it to take 2 years but the last couple of years were not the easiest but I think I am not the only one.. I hope you could follow along and I explained all the steps properly. If not please write me! If you think what I do sucks, please tell me too! I am open for constructive criticism 😄
cheers Alex
15 March 2023, 14:23
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It was a joy to follow, particularly because of the very detailed description of your techniques. I will surly follow them closely when I start my Ford G40 and my Alpine 310.
The finish is marvelous outside and in, inside and out.
Now you gotta weather it. 😜
15 March 2023, 15:02
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I hope I never have to build a glossy model like this, but if I do, I have a good template here. Thanks for the detailed description, also of the used materials!
And the final metal "turbo" sign is impressive 👍 Are the signs etched?
15 March 2023, 15:17
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It certainly is a beautiful car. Right out the Porsche catalogue, you just need the right background
15 March 2023, 16:06
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Thx mates!
@Michael: yeah right where is my Vallejo mud paste 😄
@bughunter: I am not quite sure how these metal transfer stickers are made, does not seem to be etched. In fact I believe it is not even metal but some chrome plated plastic. If I had to guess I would say they are printed in some way.
@Spanjaard: do you mean a background for the pictures? Interesting, I personally like it rather minimalistic but great to hear what others think about your work. You kinda become "blind" for certain aspects of your own creation and critical input from the outside is always welcome. What would you suggest?
15 March 2023, 17:35
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Fantastic and absolutely the opposite of sucking. A gorgeous result.
15 March 2023, 18:11
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Well, some people build complete garages (Bill Newcomer fantastic example I have actually built a diorama. | Album by musclecarfan (1:25) ) and some others use a simple base and a good image in a computer screen behind the model (Tommy124 is really good at that). I am sure you will came out wit something 😉
15 March 2023, 20:41
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Man, this model looks so awesome! I love all the details. I love this red interior. That looks so great. Don't talk about your paintjob with all the work afterwards. Holy moly. Beautiful.
16 March 2023, 06:25
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Результат отличный!!! С интересом просмотрел все фото проделанной работы . Все вышло четко и аккуратно .
16 March 2023, 06:58
Album info
Being in a car mood recently, sparked by many wornderful car WIP threads lately, I thought of making another car WiP myself. Would like to show some of the techniques I use, because the mates are asking frequently.
The culprit is a Porsche 944 Turbo, because the front engine models from Stuttgart-Zuffenhausen receive too little love to my liking in all the sea of 911s.
Paintjob will be done with a 2K system, the color will be black. A flawless black finish is tricky to achieve, I am curious myself how it will turn out. Buckle up!