Ford Model A
On a wooden floor in the work shop during restoration.
The Ford Model A in comparison to the Model T, also an ICM kit.
The T is higher and looks more like a carriage.
Comments
66 20 June, 19:54
bughunterThis comes out of the blue now 🙂
Some paints are not yet dry, but I could made the final pictures. No weathering - precondition to get a place in the living room. 😉
An oob build for fun, without a build log. But I have some pictures of the build and can made a log afterwards to show some special points of the kit.
20 June, 20:21
bughunterThank you very much mates!
This is my first model with chromed parts. I used a Molotow Refiller. It works great with a brush for small parts, but it is very tricky to use in an airbrush for bigger parts. The water cooler at the front in particular was not easy, as it has to be painted from several sides. If anything gets onto an already painted side, it becomes matt again. To make it really shiny and self-leveling, more of the paint has to be applied. But if there is too much, which happens quickly, the details run full. I removed the paint multiple times until it was acceptable (but still not perfect).
21 June, 09:00
gorbyWOW it looks fabulous! Love the colour. It certainly proves you're an all-round top modeller, not a one trick pony. 👍
21 June, 14:33
bughunterThank you George and gorby!
I really liked the cover painting on the box as it looks more nice compared to the overall black and warm gray options. I have used paints I found in my stash: the blue is Tamiya X4, the blue stripe Gunze H45, deep red Gunze H327, Gunze tire black, seats Revell leather brown. It could be more glossy, but I don't have and never used 2K clear coat.
I will upload the next pics in the build log.
21 June, 15:15
Christoph KunzSo, so, so, you really did a build out of box. I never could imagine this.
And it's a real beauty.
21 June, 17:19
Ludvík KružíkVery nice car. The combination of the two shades of blue looks fabulous. And the red wheels make it even more special. I really like it.
The ICM kits I have are really good. A while ago I built a three-wheeled Benz Patent-Motorwagen 1886 from an ICM kit. And as far as the soft plastic and small parts, I have the same building experience as you.
21 June, 17:45
bughunterWow, thank you very much mates for such a great feedback! I think we will see more Fords built from this nice kit here soon, another kit variant (with open top) is already on horizon.
At first glance, I thought the fenders were also blue on the box. But in a picture search I only found black ones and think the blue is a reflection in the shiny fenders. Wikipedia has also a beautiful red one (with closed cabin) as head picture: [img1]
Regarding the details a wonderful restored car helped me a lot, even if this is a Roadster. See for example the rose engraved in the side windows, or the engine.
parkplaceltd.com/veh..er-XXXXXXXXXA3560518
21 June, 18:30
Martin OostromStunning work Bugsy. On par with your less wheeled builds.
Molotow can be airbrushed, by spraying three successive layers. As in one-two-threeee and done. The third layer a bit slower than the others.
Youtube Video
22 June, 17:33
bughunterThank you Martin!
Yes, I airbrushed it. I found it only a bit tricky, compared to my other paints. That Liquid Chrome needs some special timing -> training needed. Small parts are easier with a hairy stick.
22 June, 19:44
Alec KExcellent! I fully support relaxing OOB builds, they are good for our sanity. Very well done 👍
23 June, 00:25
bughunterThank you Alec!
Yeah, from time to time a OOB build is relaxing, but that is hardly possible with my usual biplanes.
23 June, 16:20
BozzerWelcome to the world of automotive madness!
From what I can see, you did an excellent job!
The key to Molotow is, a fine mist coat, immediately followed by another, then followed by a wet coat. You can see the change in the colour, as it reacts with the other coats.
However, it can turn to shit, depending on what clear coat, you use?
Obviously, I always encourage people to try their own, and I welcome results, but for me, Johnstone's Klear and Alclad 2, both kept the glimmering shine?
I urge you to test, before committing to the model.
And please, share your results?
23 June, 21:00
bughunterThank you Bozzer, also for the hints!
I must admit that a real car modeler will get better results, e.g. with 2K-clear coat. I used my usual trusty MicroScale.
I really like the Alclad primer and metal paints but with clear coat I nearly ruined a model. It was still sticky after more then a week! Can't exactly say which one because I dropped it into bin after others told me it may happen.
I have not clear coated the chrome parts, only on the other parts prior mounting. Now there is no chance, as it is no more possible to mask something, e.g. the mounting of headlights is to filigree and will break fro sure. The model is finished and I leave it as it is.
Now back to my usual topics 😉
24 June, 06:05
Kyle DeHartA beautiful Model A, Frank! You have done an exceptionally nice job on this. I am very glad to see one of these built up. I hope to pick one up and build one myself. I love the colors you've chosen too. Gorgeous.
25 June, 05:58
bughunterThank you very much Kyle, nice to read from you! Now I am curious about your built model 👀
26 June, 14:46
bughunterI got an answer from ICM regarding the wheels - the concavity were intended to feature the "Ford" inscription. However, due to manufacturing constraints, they were unable to replicate the inscription, resulting in a slightly larger hole.
For me my work around is good enough.
28 June, 15:36
Album info
This comes out of the blue!
Before I build another unfinished project here, I put the new Ford Model A from ICM on the workbench as soon as I received it and built it in one go without a build log.
An out-of-the-box build to recreate my mojo.
A great kit in the good tradition of the ICM Ford Model T kit with perfect fits, but some very unfavorably placed sprue gates and mould offset. As ICM plastic is very soft, some very thin parts are difficult to handle. 0.5mm thin rods broke when I was trimming them, so out of laziness I simply replaced them with brass. Why don't the manufacturers just put a piece of wire in the box? Perhaps the kit would then manage with one less piece of sprue.
A few times I took a wrong turn during construction, which in retrospect was not so clever and resulted in extra work. Due to a lot of mishaps the model is far from perfect and can't keep up with these great vehicle models here. These high-gloss paint jobs (also the chrome was a new experience) require their own skill set, which I am far from having - A cobbler should stick to his last!
But it was good enough as a fun build in between 👍
