Wall
Wall
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Might it be ok if I plugged what seems like a really good paint stand? For 17ml bottles.
temu.com/goods.html?..s_id=601099603631265
temu.com/goods.html?..s_id=601099603631265
26 August, 09:22
August 25, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Q: Is there any convenient way of scratchbuilding railings along the side of the ship, for 1:350 ships?
I had this idea, but don't have the tools for it. Basically using metal rods, then clamping hard on 3-4 places to flatten spots on the rod, then drill holes in those flat spots, then pull a wire through the holes later. But chances are I think the whole rod will bend every which way when clamping hard on some spots to flatten the rod in places. I suppose working with styrene rods might be simpler, but then, when drilling holes in the flat parts, the styrene will likely snap or melt if ever coming in contact with liquid glue.
One other idea I had, was to maybe try scrape the photo etch railings, to try round the otherwise "square looking" horizontal parts, making them look thinner than the "rods" standing upright, making them look more like maybe some wire than welded metal pieces.
I have seen Tamiya having some aftermarket product for the rods, with metal wire, but only for the Japanese Yamato ship, which doesn't look like most other ships I would think.
I had this idea, but don't have the tools for it. Basically using metal rods, then clamping hard on 3-4 places to flatten spots on the rod, then drill holes in those flat spots, then pull a wire through the holes later. But chances are I think the whole rod will bend every which way when clamping hard on some spots to flatten the rod in places. I suppose working with styrene rods might be simpler, but then, when drilling holes in the flat parts, the styrene will likely snap or melt if ever coming in contact with liquid glue.
One other idea I had, was to maybe try scrape the photo etch railings, to try round the otherwise "square looking" horizontal parts, making them look thinner than the "rods" standing upright, making them look more like maybe some wire than welded metal pieces.
I have seen Tamiya having some aftermarket product for the rods, with metal wire, but only for the Japanese Yamato ship, which doesn't look like most other ships I would think.
All comments (5) » 24 August, 09:09
August 24, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Still waiting for this to be released. :
1 11 February, 12:05
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I hope someone will review this kit in the next few weeks. I heh sort of wonder if maybe the delay was maybe caused by manufacturing mishaps.
18 July, 09:05
August 22, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
owns this item
![1:350 21" TR MKIV Triple Torpedo Tubes (Micro Master MM1253P) MM1253P](/products/img/5/1/3/1572513-28845-82-t180.jpg)
Royal Navy
21" TR MKIV Triple Torpedo Tubes x2 (Dido Class Cruisers) Micro Master 1:350
MM1253P Multi-topic (1!!)22 August, 17:03
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
owns this item
![1:350 2-pdr Octuple Pom Poms (4cm/39) QF MKVIII on ‘M’ (MKV) Mount (Micro Master MM1016P) MM1016P](/products/img/6/5/1/1537651-41450-77-t180.png)
Royal Navy
2-pdr Octuple Pom Poms (4cm/39) QF MKVIII on ‘M’ (MKV) Mount x2 (Wartime 0º) Micro Master 1:350
MM1016P 22 August, 16:28
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
owns this item
![1:350 5.25"/50 (13.4cm) QF MKI (Micro Master MM1255P) MM1255P](/products/img/6/8/6/1539686-41450-41-t180.png)
Royal Navy
5.25"/50 (13.4cm) QF MKI x5 (Early War Version) Micro Master 1:350
MM1255P Multi-topic (1!!)22 August, 16:26
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
owns this item
![1:350 Byers Stockless 75cwt Anchors (Micro Master MM0519P) MM0519P](/products/img/9/0/3/1534903-41450-32-t180.jpg)
Royal Navy
Byers Stockless 75cwt Anchors (Dido & Leander Class Cruisers) x2 Micro Master 1:350
MM0519P Multi-topic (3)22 August, 12:28
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
owns this item
![1:350 King George V (1940), Dido, Vanguard Classes (RB Model 350L05) 350L05](/products/img/3/5/3/226353-41450-74-t180.jpg)
King George V (1940), Dido, Vanguard Classes 16 x 5.25"/50 QF Mark I
RB Model 1:350
350L05 Multi-topic (4)22 August, 12:27
August 20, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Is it just me, or does this seem a little expensive for just 2 barrels, when a bomber plane might have some 10 machineguns?
All comments (5) » 20 August, 11:12
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Ok, so I found these parts I had from before. Master AM-72-125. 13 barrels in this pack. Ok, these are somewhat cheaper.
Hm, I guess one gets 50% more barrels with the AM-72-125 pack for the same price.
Luckily for me, I have 3 of these, so.. heh, 39 barrels. 🙂 Didn't know I had so many of them in my stash.
20 August, 19:15
![](/profiles/img/34360-107-s.jpg)
That was exactly what happened to me. I also found the set with the two MG barrels and thought the price was quite high. Then I came across the set with the 13 barrels for the B17 (AM-72-125) and bought that.
20 August, 19:23
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Aha. This type of vehicle was recently included in Squad multiplayer. Typically known as a Bradley, but the M7A3 not having that annoying missile launcher on it.
I hope the tracks, if being track links, are better than with the Bradley kit made by Panda Hobby.
Update: Hrm, nope. Looks like the track links are sort of faked, looking the same as Panda Hobby ones.
20 August, 07:28
August 19, 2024
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Anyone know if this store re-opens?
micromaster.co.nz
They apparently sell 3d printed parts. Just ordered a 1:350 Dido cruiser, so the store had me interested.
I got the impression that maaybe it re-opens in Sept. 2024, but I can't find any solid info on that. I gave their FB site a look but I didn't notice any info of importance, but perhaps I missed it.
As of this time, placing an order on their website just spawns a popup asking to contact the website or something.
micromaster.co.nz
They apparently sell 3d printed parts. Just ordered a 1:350 Dido cruiser, so the store had me interested.
I got the impression that maaybe it re-opens in Sept. 2024, but I can't find any solid info on that. I gave their FB site a look but I didn't notice any info of importance, but perhaps I missed it.
As of this time, placing an order on their website just spawns a popup asking to contact the website or something.
19 August, 07:24
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Ok looking closer at their FB page, I found this statement "Should be open again early September! ". 🙂
19 August, 14:30
![](/profiles/img/15656-162-s.jpg)
See my review of some micromaster products, I got them from Shapeways because the store was closed last year. shipmodels.info/mws_..hp?f=85&t=378908
19 August, 17:50
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Btw, I will probably buy some 3d-printed stuff. Hopefully, and I guess I will find out, if the 3d-printed resin will be a good match with the Dido 5.25" metal barrels I already ordered someplace else.
Btw, if you think the 3d-printed stuff is subpar, you might as well say so. I do expect some rough surface texture, I just don't know how bad compared to other 3d printed stuff I've bought in the past.
Edit: I've looked at some 1:350 stuff on their FB page, and I think it looks ok.
19 August, 19:02
![](/profiles/img/15656-162-s.jpg)
If it's barrels I would indeed prefer metal, these you want to avoid sanding to keep them round. But the Richelieu turrets I bought are necessary even if they have to be sanded, they are proportionally superior to the kit. Also keep in mind that with an extra in the price you can opt for the supreme quality setting, in this case I chose medium resolution.
19 August, 19:24
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Q: Does anyone know if the Dido class WW2 anti air light cruiser ships, were ever painted in plain light gray? Either before WW2, or during WW2?
Having difficulty finding out info on this, and I thoght I'd ask to avoid having to buy books about this subject.
Having difficulty finding out info on this, and I thoght I'd ask to avoid having to buy books about this subject.
19 August, 14:37
August 18, 2024
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According to a youtuber, mixing Tamiyas X-20A acrylic(!) thinner with Vallejo's Metal Color paints, is a good mix. Said to add some needed retarder effect. I hope I get to try that out some day with some all metal skin finish.
18 August, 16:50
August 16, 2024
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Oh, wow! This looks like a super useful tool for airbrushing on a digital camo!
![No Masker Easycutting Jig 2 (For All) (Voyager Model TEZ070) TEZ070](/products/img/2/6/3/1006263-16972-18-t180.jpg)
Masker Easycutting Jig 2 (For All)
Voyager Model
TEZ070 16 August, 10:08
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Tip. If you don't want to make new holes in your wall for this thing, if you already have two holes, you can simply drill two holes in the holder, and re-use the old two holes. 🙂
16 August, 09:40
August 14, 2024
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Why does this cutting blade, this small rod, why does it fall out of the circle cutter now? Maybe it was supposed to be magnetic?
This circle cutter is many years old now.
The problem is that, whenever I turn the cutter around to cut some masking tape, the cutting rod simply falls out.
[img1] (image upload)
This circle cutter is many years old now.
The problem is that, whenever I turn the cutter around to cut some masking tape, the cutting rod simply falls out.
[img1] (image upload)
14 August, 09:34
August 7, 2024
August 5, 2024
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I finally got around to airbrushing a tank model with some "anti slip" paste added on the plastic. What a nice result, and such fun to work with. Simple, easy, and looking very nice. One layer if wanting a rough, light layer, and two layers if you want a more solid and similar texture all over. I used a 4mm wide flat brush for the application iirc. One basically dip the brush tip into the tube opening, then dot the plastic with a small amount, and then, you keep touching the paste on the plastic, until you create a pattern of more fine particles, tiny bits of paste.
A.MIG-2033 Anti-Slip Paste -..or 1/35, Ammo by Mig Jimenez Matt, Acrylic, 20ml
A.MIG-2033 Anti-Slip Paste -..or 1/35, Ammo by Mig Jimenez Matt, Acrylic, 20ml
5 August, 12:13
August 3, 2024
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Aaah. Much too fiddly imo. The photo etch imo, is too thin, making it hard/unforgiving to correct mistakes without bending the photo etch.
I gave up on this. Maybe someone more careful than me can make it look ok. Imo, the larger parts should have been made of plastic, not thin photo etch. Maybe better if the photo etch was thicker.
3 August, 18:28
July 26, 2024
July 24, 2024
July 16, 2024
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I bought some Mig Ammo 'Anti slip paste'. Two tubes, one for 1:72&1:48, and another tube for 1:35 scale.
I put this stuff onto some plastic, and an hour later, I do not think I can tell there being any difference between the two.
One is ofc black and the other brown, but the texture from using the same brush, the texture sort of looks exactly the same.
What should I expect being a difference here between the two tubes, anyone know?
I put this stuff onto some plastic, and an hour later, I do not think I can tell there being any difference between the two.
One is ofc black and the other brown, but the texture from using the same brush, the texture sort of looks exactly the same.
What should I expect being a difference here between the two tubes, anyone know?
15 July, 18:06
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Oh, wow, this was a lot of fun to put on: [img1]
I used the brown 1:35 scale tube.
A single layer. They suggest putting on two layers. Looking at photos of the US M1A1 tank I get the impression that a single layer will do nicely.
16 July, 05:22
July 14, 2024
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added a new photoalbum.
11 images
Revell's A400M military transport in 1:144 scale![View album, image #7 View album, image #7](/albums/img/4/5/8/716458-28845-98-720.jpg)
1:144
My favourite photo I think. Happy about thinning the wings and stabs on the rear side.
All comments (7) » 14 2 March 2020, 11:02
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Thank you. 🙂
I remember learning the importance of using primer paint to hide seams. I did eventually learn that, the moment you add glue to a seam, even though it might look smooth, chances are that the plastic is "melted/eaten away" at the edges ever so slightly and that a tiny gap will appear along the glued seam.
Later I learned that a simpler way of fixing seams, is to just use a toothpick or something for applying a rich amount of primer paint along a seam, and then gently sand flush.
One issue with Vallejo's primer paint, might be that the primer don't stick to the plastic well enough, and so cleaning the surface with alcohol and maybe sanding it a little should help make the primer paint stick I think.
Edit: The future of scale modeling projects for me, has to include some kind of piece of paper making notes, because I find it annoying that I keep forgetting subtle things I thought about earlier, but forgot as time passed.
14 July, 07:49
July 8, 2024
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All this time, I thought the US Abrams tank had symmetric frontal armor plates on the turret, and so I look at a Tamiya kit in my stash and go "wtf" as I see something unexpected.
[img1] (image upload)
[img1] (image upload)
8 July, 13:51
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It's just angled, we didn't to much worry about turret armor as IED's we're more ground base, I had 2 buddies get seriously F'd up due to a mine. Bust the TUSK add on's came in midway through the war around 2008 or so. Here's some picks of one of my trips to the sand box, there a pic of the tank my buddies were in.
Iraq 2007-2009 | Album by springfieldm14
8 July, 14:05
July 6, 2024
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I regret buying this track links kit, it doesn't make much sense to me.
1) The driver sprockets looks exactly like more modern Leopard drive sprockets, not at all an Abrams one. Very different.
2) The two rollers at the front in resin, are larger than the Tamiya kit.
I will use the, le sigh, vinyl tracks probably.
6 July, 17:45
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Hrm, I have this Iwata HP-CS Eclipse 0.35 airbrush and I am stressing a little when trying to airbrush on some camo (without masking). I didn't want to use masking tape and I don't have any camo goo to spread over as masking either.
Like with my other attempt with this other tank I think I have to airbrush on desert yellow over the darker colors and try correct the shapes of the camo. The big part on the side and the wheels arent' glued on.
I've never done this before (I used masking tape the last time I worked on a tank), I think I have to make sure the Vallejo Air paint is thin, and then try lower the psi way below 20 psi and try get close to get a crisp line when airbrushing. And I don't want to take off my needle guard to get closer, as I don't want to bend the needle tip, again. 🙂
I didn't want to make a WIP album for this, just another side project.
[img1]
Like with my other attempt with this other tank I think I have to airbrush on desert yellow over the darker colors and try correct the shapes of the camo. The big part on the side and the wheels arent' glued on.
I've never done this before (I used masking tape the last time I worked on a tank), I think I have to make sure the Vallejo Air paint is thin, and then try lower the psi way below 20 psi and try get close to get a crisp line when airbrushing. And I don't want to take off my needle guard to get closer, as I don't want to bend the needle tip, again. 🙂
I didn't want to make a WIP album for this, just another side project.
[img1]
All comments (8) » 3 July, 12:13
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Fixed. Well worth the effort just correcting the mistakes. Very carefully airbrushing on more paint to correct the camo pattern, making sure I don't widen the spray too much by keeping the paint flow low. 33% thinner mixed worked, but with some tip try for Vallejo Air. Maybe a little more thinner mix would work even better, but not a big issue with 33% thinner mix and 67% Vallejo Air paint.
An other model of mine, sort of looked like a panda after the first round of airbrushign on a camo pattern, too large shapes. Fixed by changing the pattern to look less than blobs and more like stripes.
Btw, that tube thingy behind the turret was re-made with a piece of metal cylinder early on, because I wasn't able to clean up the plastic parts, looks much nicer this way.
Oh, wait I see a couple of errors with the camo on the turret. Sigh. Must fix that.
[img1]
6 July, 08:35
![](/profiles/img/121752-978-s.jpg)
I suck at fine lines- so for sharp lines, I use masking tape I cut to the pattern I want - it's time consuming, but gets me the desired results.. I do this for Russian jets that seem to have well defined lines (Ianyone correct me if I am wrong on this)
For camo that blends, I either use camo goo (similar to Gorby's Blue Tec), or I use Max Afterburner's trick of creating paper masks and leaving them 1mm off the surface so it blends with the other color. This is a must for US camo schemes.
I personally haven't had a flood experience with Blue Tac - it does leave an oily residue the longer you keep it on a surface (try it on a piece of paper for a week). The el-cheap white ones from China are worse - they really stick to the surface - so I tend to use the good, or paper masks.
The downside with good is that it doesn't retain it's shape very well over time - so in warmer weather, it will just "melt" leaving you with flatter lines that don't retain the original pattern. It's great for on the fly masking and painting, but when you are stretched for time and want to mask days ahead of painting, the paper mask works better.
These are my experience - your mileage may vary. 😀
6 July, 08:55
July 3, 2024
July 2, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Oh, joy! 🙂
I am so glad I finally figured out a preferred way to add a gloss coat (and airbrushing on Vallejo primers and paints in general).
Re. the bottle of Vallejo Gloss coat (presumably the newer stuff, which I think I have). I think there is an old version, and a new variant.
Trick imo, is to use a thinner mix. 70% flow improver + 30% thinner + 10% additional gooey retarder medium (mixed separately outside a bottle), then all poured into a larger bottle so you mix some thinner mix, on some rare occasion, so say 100ml thinner mix on the ready.
[img1] (image upload)
Some potential issues:
1) A good result is getting a wet-in-wet application, using say 15 psi with 0.5 needle setup, to get enough paint flow. 0.35 isn't good enough imo. Airbrushing on primer seem to require 20-22 psi.
2) However, too much, and there may be some discoloration, both too much matte and too much Vallejo glossy varnish = bright spots. Unsure if they go away with time. I think the matte discoloration stays as a brightened surface if you fail to thin it.
3) Vallejo Varnish is supposed to be thinned 50:50, never used as is without thinning afaik.
4) In my experience, too much flow improver, or retarder, it takes too long for the paint/varnish to go dry.
5) Too much varnish pooling up in a corner, and the varnish will afaik start building up and some detail will be less crisp I think if you overdo it.
6) A more wet paint, or paint airbrushed on wet-in-wet, can get tricky when used with masking tape, as the liquid touching the masking tape might creep under it if the masking tape is not properly attached.
7) Thicker decal film might require say three or who knows how many layers of gloss coat, to hide the decal film edges. On the Ohio SSBN model, it seems I will need at least three layers (right over the decals) to hide the decal film edge.
I am so glad I finally figured out a preferred way to add a gloss coat (and airbrushing on Vallejo primers and paints in general).
Re. the bottle of Vallejo Gloss coat (presumably the newer stuff, which I think I have). I think there is an old version, and a new variant.
Trick imo, is to use a thinner mix. 70% flow improver + 30% thinner + 10% additional gooey retarder medium (mixed separately outside a bottle), then all poured into a larger bottle so you mix some thinner mix, on some rare occasion, so say 100ml thinner mix on the ready.
[img1] (image upload)
Some potential issues:
1) A good result is getting a wet-in-wet application, using say 15 psi with 0.5 needle setup, to get enough paint flow. 0.35 isn't good enough imo. Airbrushing on primer seem to require 20-22 psi.
2) However, too much, and there may be some discoloration, both too much matte and too much Vallejo glossy varnish = bright spots. Unsure if they go away with time. I think the matte discoloration stays as a brightened surface if you fail to thin it.
3) Vallejo Varnish is supposed to be thinned 50:50, never used as is without thinning afaik.
4) In my experience, too much flow improver, or retarder, it takes too long for the paint/varnish to go dry.
5) Too much varnish pooling up in a corner, and the varnish will afaik start building up and some detail will be less crisp I think if you overdo it.
6) A more wet paint, or paint airbrushed on wet-in-wet, can get tricky when used with masking tape, as the liquid touching the masking tape might creep under it if the masking tape is not properly attached.
7) Thicker decal film might require say three or who knows how many layers of gloss coat, to hide the decal film edges. On the Ohio SSBN model, it seems I will need at least three layers (right over the decals) to hide the decal film edge.
2 July, 10:18
June 30, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
added a new photoalbum.
26 images
Dragon's Ohio Class SSGN (or SSBN) in 1:350 scale![View album, image #26 View album, image #26](/albums/img/3/4/8/1758348-28845-64-720.jpg)
1:350
Very happy with this result. Oh, I heh got carried away with the decals and forgot I was supposed to add oils, so I have...
All comments (14) » 33 13 January 2021, 13:31
![](/profiles/img/41413-954-s.png)
Hope your having fun doing this. You are correcting a lot of the issues that most don't.
JB
18 May, 18:32
June 28, 2024
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Using Vallejo's range of acrylic paints, I've managed to reduce the waste I create, in some sense at least. Instead of moving paint into some water, I wipe if off with some paper. This then removed 99.99% of the paint from the little water I use. The trash gets incinerated afaik, so better that way. Instead of first dunking a brush into some water I instead first wipe off most of the paint with some piece of paper towel, getting most of the paint out that way.
28 June, 11:42
June 21, 2024
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Oh, no! Re. Dspiae magnetic paint mixer.
My larger 200ml bottles of Vallejo primer paint don't work with the metal bars, and so the paint doesn't mix, I simply assumed it would work. 🙁
How can I know this don't work? Well.. instead of placing a metal bar inside a bottle of primer paint, I put a metal bar inside a 200ml bottle of thinner, and even though the metal bar spins around, it comes to a rest, always, and so it doesn't work. The seemingly obvious reason why the metal bar don't spin properly is I think, the convex shaped bottom of the plastic bottle. The 200ml has a larger "hill" than the 60ml one.
I believe the smaller 60ml bottles works nicely though, but apparently the 200ml don't. 🙁
Good thing I just bought some huge 10mm large metal balls for paint mixing, and will use those instead inside my 200ml bottles of Vallejo primer paint.
To "clean" things up, I used a telescoping magnetic rod, to fish out the small metal rods I used and also any smaller balls I added previously, and then replaced those mixer items with larger two 10mm metal balls in each 200ml primer bottle.
My larger 200ml bottles of Vallejo primer paint don't work with the metal bars, and so the paint doesn't mix, I simply assumed it would work. 🙁
How can I know this don't work? Well.. instead of placing a metal bar inside a bottle of primer paint, I put a metal bar inside a 200ml bottle of thinner, and even though the metal bar spins around, it comes to a rest, always, and so it doesn't work. The seemingly obvious reason why the metal bar don't spin properly is I think, the convex shaped bottom of the plastic bottle. The 200ml has a larger "hill" than the 60ml one.
I believe the smaller 60ml bottles works nicely though, but apparently the 200ml don't. 🙁
Good thing I just bought some huge 10mm large metal balls for paint mixing, and will use those instead inside my 200ml bottles of Vallejo primer paint.
To "clean" things up, I used a telescoping magnetic rod, to fish out the small metal rods I used and also any smaller balls I added previously, and then replaced those mixer items with larger two 10mm metal balls in each 200ml primer bottle.
21 June, 08:41
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Btw, I like this new way of mine mixing paint, instead of measurement by drops, I just weigh it all, simple math. Have to make sure I don't include the weight of the strainer/sift. The strainer is necessary to avoid bits of dry primer paint clogging up the airbrush. The paint, in the tiny glass jar, has to be mixed, never with a brush to avoid bubbles, but mixed using the wooden tip/handle at the end of the brush.
Note: This scale weight is not accurate enough to weigh individual drops of liquid. 0.1g seems more like it, than 0.01g sensibility.
[img1]
21 June, 09:17
June 16, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I think I just learned that, when thinning Vallejo Air paint in a paint mixer cup, using a brush = bubbles. So bubbles = bad, as the damn tiny bubbles don't seem to vanish, when I try to smoothen out a cavity by adding a rich amount of say white Vallejo Air paint.
Trick is to mix the paint with a round stick, to avoid making bubbles.
I've previously managed to get rid of bubbles by simply blowing a short burst of air onto the surface but this won't work well in some situations where you risk the paint blowing/moving away.
Trick is to mix the paint with a round stick, to avoid making bubbles.
I've previously managed to get rid of bubbles by simply blowing a short burst of air onto the surface but this won't work well in some situations where you risk the paint blowing/moving away.
16 June, 08:47
June 14, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Hm, I just noticed. This Trumpeter track links kit (the box I got anyway) comes with some resin parts, like for the main sprocket wheel pulling the tracks.
However, I can't identify this sprocket design on Abrams tanks on photos. I do see the sprocket wheel in a modern Leopard photo. Weird? Or, do both tanks use the same sprocket design maybe?
How old is this sprocket design anyway? Anybody know? (Seen in the photo of the leo in the link just below.)
ibb.co/nwwDQwr (image upload)
11 June, 07:16
![](/profiles/img/15656-162-s.jpg)
Here I found a comparative review with the Trumpeter sprocket in it: vodnik.net/pages/m1-comparison/m1comp1.htm . It says Trumpeter includes a retaining ring part that was discontinued in all but the USMC tanks. Is it still in your track set?
11 June, 08:08
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
The kit box came with several resin parts and the retaining ring was included.
This retainer ring, ofc, isn't what I had in mind, just for clarification.
Btw, the track links kit, afaik comes in two versions. I have the one linked above.
There were six resin parts in the box: two front roller wheels, two drive sprockets, and also two retaining rings.
I guess what I found weird, is that the resin drive sprokets, doesn't look like the ones in the Trumper tank kit you linked to.
14 June, 16:10
June 10, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I learned recently, that if one wanted to use syringe tips for shiny metal parts, like shiny rods in landing gear parts, there is also plain (non sharp) syringes to buy. Difficulty might be to find some that sell a pack of various diameters but I did find one package. Heh, never got around/dared to ask around at the pharmacy for such parts. Such syringe tips must be a lot easier to work with, than solid steel parts I think.
1 10 June, 18:31
June 8, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
These are some imo really nice bottles to have. Bought from Temu.
Though, I am not quite sure if the drops coming off these are smaller than other drops, like from a Vallejo 17ml bottle. It sort of looks like it maybe, not entirely sure, which would mess up the mixing ratio I think. Still I prefer these to the larger awkward Vallejo bottles.
One is filled with airbrush cleaning liquid (30ml?), the other a thinner mix (50ml).
The plastic bottle material is moderately soft, neither hard, nor soft, and so the bottle can easily be squeezed.
[img1]
Though, I am not quite sure if the drops coming off these are smaller than other drops, like from a Vallejo 17ml bottle. It sort of looks like it maybe, not entirely sure, which would mess up the mixing ratio I think. Still I prefer these to the larger awkward Vallejo bottles.
One is filled with airbrush cleaning liquid (30ml?), the other a thinner mix (50ml).
The plastic bottle material is moderately soft, neither hard, nor soft, and so the bottle can easily be squeezed.
[img1]
7 June, 06:54
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Now that I think about it, a solution to making accurate mixing ratios, might be to use the combination of a small jar + small digital scale weight, that way at least, it doesn't matter how large or small the drops are, as long as the amount of paint and thinner sums up to whatever amount you want. 🙂 Obviously a digital kitchen scale weight wouldn't be accurate I think, but there are cheap tiny digital scale weights that should work ok I think. These small digital scale weights has a max weight of 100g iirc.
Using my digital kitchen scale weight, an empty small 5ml jar is about 5g. It just says "5g", with no decimal places.
Filling the jar up to 4 ml, adds 3g using water.
So total weight of a small jar would be around 10g at max.
A small digital scale weight apparently can show 3g as 3.01g, which would help alot to get a more accurate measurement.
8 June, 05:56
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I have a fun time airbrushing on Vallejo primer paint now using a thinner mix, but the added retarder medium makes it more difficult to thin by eye like I was used to when preparing a mix with Vallejo Air paint (not primer paint), and so I think using a scale weight will simplify things for me, the graduated jars isn't very useful as the lines are too few and so too crude, and somehow the paint creeps up along the glass wall as well heh in a small measuring jar. And counting lots of drops, is starting to irritate me when mixing paint.
8 June, 16:29
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Haaah. I ordered a 1:24 Dodge 70 Challenger kit off Revell's store on Amazon.co.uk..
...and some hours later I realize that the kit will be shipped in December.
I was not aware of that when I placed the order.
This is bizarre. Not a word about it being a pre-order on Amazon.
...and some hours later I realize that the kit will be shipped in December.
I was not aware of that when I placed the order.
This is bizarre. Not a word about it being a pre-order on Amazon.
23 May, 22:37
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Update: Apparently, Amazon.co.uk is working on something.
I sent a complaint/comment at some point, and then after a while it said delivery in June, then it said June-December, and now today it says June again. Seems like progress maybe. 😄
Still not shipped though..
8 June, 08:50
June 3, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Q: Where are the headlights on a 1968 Dodge Challenger? 🙂 Sort of looks like that car has no headlights, seems dangerous. 😄
3 June, 13:34
June 2, 2024
May 29, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I am very happy with this cross locking tweezer, bought off Temu. I have 5 more on the way. 🙂 1mm thick metal. Two versions, I think I ordered the smallest one.
temu.com/goods.html?..s_id=601099568122650
I am tempted to buy a cheap pipette tool for lab use to better mix paint, as I don't trust my measuring jar when mixing thinner and primer paint and sitting there counting 50 drops of thinner and another 50 drops of paint is getting annoying. The drop sizes doesn't even look the same size. Bought some gloves size L for camping, but seemed just a little too small and so regret that purchase. Was able to find some larger paint mixing balls in steel, and also found some other stuff like mini funnels. Will buy some uv glue to use with my new uv light (protection googles required). Apparently they also sell those tiny sifts you can put inside an airbrush cup (unlisted U-Star product I think). Whatever you do, don't buy plastic scale model kits off Temu, it really seems like a ripoff, and I think I can blame it on the ONE seller there. 🙂
temu.com/goods.html?..s_id=601099568122650
I am tempted to buy a cheap pipette tool for lab use to better mix paint, as I don't trust my measuring jar when mixing thinner and primer paint and sitting there counting 50 drops of thinner and another 50 drops of paint is getting annoying. The drop sizes doesn't even look the same size. Bought some gloves size L for camping, but seemed just a little too small and so regret that purchase. Was able to find some larger paint mixing balls in steel, and also found some other stuff like mini funnels. Will buy some uv glue to use with my new uv light (protection googles required). Apparently they also sell those tiny sifts you can put inside an airbrush cup (unlisted U-Star product I think). Whatever you do, don't buy plastic scale model kits off Temu, it really seems like a ripoff, and I think I can blame it on the ONE seller there. 🙂
29 May, 11:52
May 23, 2024
May 21, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Are there any aftermarket parts for round clear parts? Anybody know?
I'm sure I've seen something like that mentioned on youtube some time ago.
I'm sure I've seen something like that mentioned on youtube some time ago.
21 May, 11:54
![](/profiles/img/21096-573-s.jpg)
maybe you can try home made thermomolding , basically take the shape you need and press a clear sheet against it. you can make a hole in a piece of thin wood staple the plastic, warm it up on top of a toaster,and press on top of the created rounded shape.
21 May, 12:05
![](/profiles/img/21096-573-s.jpg)
i did that ages ago and made a clear and thin cockpit for a mig29, and the dome of an R2D2 that I was scratching
today you can also get one like Vacuum Forming Machine (Micro-Mark 85756, No)
21 May, 12:08
May 16, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I ordered some "soft raw brass" wire in a variety of thicknesses, and I hope I didn't make a mistake doing that.
I had some copper wiring at home that I tried to use, but found it hard to bend the wire, and so it was annoying to use.
I had some copper wiring at home that I tried to use, but found it hard to bend the wire, and so it was annoying to use.
1 16 May, 13:57
![](/profiles/img/21997-347-s.jpg)
Brass is harder then copper.
You can try to glow the copper wire in a candle flame. It will be soft and you got a used look 😉
16 May, 14:07
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
What do you think they meant with "raw" though? Curious about that. I guess I'll find out. 😛 Ordered off Temu.
I'll consider ordering some aluminum wiring, but didn't find thinner ones and just went with what I ordered today.
The brass wiring I ordered is anywhere inbetween 0.1 and 1.0 mm in a variety of thicknesses.
16 May, 14:33
![](/profiles/img/21997-347-s.jpg)
I don't know about raw. There are different brass alloys, may be related to that.
I cannot recommend aluminum. It is very brittle and can hardly be bent in small diameters.
Try glowing of the copper, which can be made with brass too.
For modeling purpose (like pipes and wiring for aircraft for example) lead wire is still a method of choice:
SCM Search: lead wire
16 May, 14:44
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Btw, I used some solder wire earlier, which was ok, but really really soft. Only had one thickness of it in my stash.
16 May, 15:22
May 13, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Re. 1:24 car kits. Has anyone tried scratch building the clear parts for cars? I imagine the glass surfaces are just a little bent and isn't curved, and so one could imagine just putting in place some flexing clear styrene sheet in place, maybe heat treat it to remove the tendency to flex back into a flat surface.
13 May, 19:44
May 6, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Edit: Oh, wait!! ZTZ-96 vs ZTZ-99, how could I have not noticed the two different tank model numbers.
I bought the wrong track links kit. 🙁
HB kit does NOT fit the Bronco track links kit found here. Not even close: 🙁
ZTZ-99 Steel Type (Bronco AB3530, 1:35)
Sure, Scalemates doesn't show the two being a match, but I thought, all the other HB ZTZ-99's listed there, but somehow this one kit I had, did not match, for reasons unknown.
6 May, 20:03
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I am having so much more fun now airbrushing on Vallejo primer, now using my 0.5 Iwata HP-CS Eclipse (modded airbrush). Standard size is 0.35 but the paint flow is limited, and with the 0.5 setup, the paint flow is a lot more.
Anyway, using the thinner-mix of 70% Vallejo flow enhancer + 30% Vallejo thinner + another 10% retarder medium, I am having so much fun airbrushing on primer paint, all relaxing at 20 psi, and the resulting finish is reall smooth. 🙂 No tip dry to speak of. Thinner mix, mixed with primer at a ration of 50:50.
Vallejo primer is ofc sifted, before mixed in a small jar. I also started stirring the paint, not using bristle on a big brush, but instead the hard wooden tip of the handle, no bubbles.
Anyway, using the thinner-mix of 70% Vallejo flow enhancer + 30% Vallejo thinner + another 10% retarder medium, I am having so much fun airbrushing on primer paint, all relaxing at 20 psi, and the resulting finish is reall smooth. 🙂 No tip dry to speak of. Thinner mix, mixed with primer at a ration of 50:50.
Vallejo primer is ofc sifted, before mixed in a small jar. I also started stirring the paint, not using bristle on a big brush, but instead the hard wooden tip of the handle, no bubbles.
6 May, 17:35
May 5, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Q: I've seen this type of airbrush cleaning tool, that looks like an ice pick sort of, that cleans the airbrush nozzle. Though, I wonder, must not this kind of tool be matched in size with a same "sized" nozzle to avoid damage?
30 April, 11:47
![](/profiles/img/23938-707-s.jpg)
Yes it does. I use it when dried paint accumulates in the nozzle tip, works well.
4 May, 12:11
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
What did you mean though? Will any such tool work ok, or does one risk damaging the nozzle, if one buys the wrong sized cleaning tool like that kind of "ice pick"?
I mean, I can at least imagine that there might be a 0.5 tool for a 0.5 nozzle, and a 0.35 tool for a 0.35 nozzle.
I later noticed that this tool, is missing some metal at the tip, which makes it scrape off paint more easily I think inside a nozzle, so the tip isn't just a pointy tip I noticed.
4 May, 13:12
![](/profiles/img/23938-707-s.jpg)
I think you need a cleaning tool matched to the nozzle, the tool I bought was for the Infinity CR Plus .15mm nozzle. I think it's steel so potentially it could damage the interior of the nozzle if you do not insert it carefully (it does have a pointed tip). I do use it regularly during deep-clean of my airbrush parts and had no problem so far. It essentially works like a reamer.
Soaking the nozzle in thinner before using the cleaning tool seems a good idea, to soften the paint deposits imho.
5 May, 12:54
![](/profiles/img/121752-978-s.jpg)
Harder and Steinbeck have a cleaning kit that works- Harder & Steenbeck Professional Airbrush Service Kit [217500]
I needed that because you need the tool to replace some of the seals. The nozzle cleaner is generic and can work across all nozzle sizes. It doesn't seem to press against the nozzle tip itself for the 0.4mm - so I don't worry about it breaking that part
5 May, 23:40
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I find the lack of 'reviews' on this item disturbing. I only see "previews" listed. 🙂 I would have assumed that this would be a very popular kit being from Tamiya and given the 1:32 scale (though somewhat expensive).
All comments (5) » 1 5 September 2019, 15:48
May 2, 2024
April 30, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
wants this item
30 April, 06:56
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Hrm, no longer want this. Apparently this is a rerun of some Eastern Express kit, also doesn't come with decals. Maybe it is ok and interesting on its own one never knows for sure until you see it, I just never saw EE having modern molding machines or whatever.
30 April, 11:48
April 26, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Does an airbrush with a 0.5 mm needle put out more paint compared to a 0.35 mm needle setup, with both at the same psi?
26 April, 08:56
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Ahaha. I can answer this myself now.
I filled some battery water into my two airbrushes (Iwata HP-CS Eclipse) one standard 0.35 and one modded 0.5 needle size. I also bought two paint limiter handles for both, which isn't standard when buying such an airbrush afaik.
It seems like the 0.5 airbrush put out a LOT more paint, or in this case, water from the airbrush.
I've always used the 0.35 needle for airbrushing on color, but I think I should try the 0.5 one.
I guess I worry now that the 0.5 needle isn't ideal for lower psi, thinking the paint doesn't properly atomize, but maybe I am wrong thinking like that.
26 April, 09:29
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Hm.
At 15 psi, the 0.5 setup does doesn't atomize as well, it does spray on but not nicely enough I think, so I think I should try 20 psi minimum when using the 0.5 needle airbrush setup. Doesn't matter if airbrushing on thinned Vallejo primer or thinne Vallejo Air I think.
At 15 psi, the 0.35 setup might work ok, for both airbrushing on thinned Vallejo primer and thinned Vallejo Air paint.
Hm, I wonder, if the drops from my thinner bottle are the same size as the drops from Vallejo's 17ml paint bottles, unsure.
50:50 Thinner mix to Vallejo Air ratio seems wrong, too thin. Maybe 40:60 would be a lot better.
50:50 Thinner mix to Vallejo primer ratio, seems good.
I like how the Vallejo Air paint lies on the surface, perfectly smooth.
26 April, 11:09
April 25, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I had the nicest airbrushing session. I used in total some 300 drops of paint with this thinner mix and it went all on very well.
I already knew I get good results with Vallejo black primer (matte), but I think everything was so much nicer this time around using this new mix I heard about on youtube. It is a premixed thinner solution with mostly flow enhancer liquid.
70% Vallejo flow enhancer
30% Vallejo Thinner
then add on top of all that 10% Vallejo retarder medium
Retarder medium is hard to mix, don't go out as droplets, think of a way to add this easily, or be frustrated.
Instead of trying to counting slimy large drops of retarder medium, I filled a small jar to 10%, easier to measure, a tiny jar with measuring lines.
Trick is to mix all of that in a small bottle, then pour a liquified solution, into some bottle with a small opening. Not possible to add retarder medium into a bottle with a small neck, just won't go in. So, I get to have a bottle of this mix for airbrushing. Shaking the bottle with a couple of steel balls creates lots of bubbles, but the bubbles go away after a while.
Then, mixed 50:50 with primer paint on demand. So nice. 🙂 Psi set to 20, airbrushing at 4-5 cm distance.
I already knew I get good results with Vallejo black primer (matte), but I think everything was so much nicer this time around using this new mix I heard about on youtube. It is a premixed thinner solution with mostly flow enhancer liquid.
70% Vallejo flow enhancer
30% Vallejo Thinner
then add on top of all that 10% Vallejo retarder medium
Retarder medium is hard to mix, don't go out as droplets, think of a way to add this easily, or be frustrated.
Instead of trying to counting slimy large drops of retarder medium, I filled a small jar to 10%, easier to measure, a tiny jar with measuring lines.
Trick is to mix all of that in a small bottle, then pour a liquified solution, into some bottle with a small opening. Not possible to add retarder medium into a bottle with a small neck, just won't go in. So, I get to have a bottle of this mix for airbrushing. Shaking the bottle with a couple of steel balls creates lots of bubbles, but the bubbles go away after a while.
Then, mixed 50:50 with primer paint on demand. So nice. 🙂 Psi set to 20, airbrushing at 4-5 cm distance.
23 April, 12:33
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Hrm. I so I previously had a very nice airbrushing session airbrushing Vallejo primer, but today, airbrushing on Vallejo Air Dark Yellow, I had a bad time. Might be because I tried for once to mix "thinner" and paint inside the cup, which I don't really do anymore. Also, I noticed the air hole in the paint cup cap was starting to clog up from a previous session. I wonder if the mix of thinner must be shaken every day before airbrushing, or, I must somehow add more liquid. Anyway, it sort of seems like my paint wasn't thinned enough, which I found bizarre. Not sure what I did wrong today.
25 April, 10:40
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
added a new photoalbum.
32 images
Revell's (ICM's) Henschel 33 D German WW2 Truck![View album, image #32 View album, image #32](/albums/img/8/2/6/1713826-28845-49-720.jpg)
1:35
I added some of the other photos to the album, prior to this one which I moved to the end, yet again.
It is humbling fo...
All comments (18) » 31 5 January, 15:15
April 24, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Bought a lot of cheap stuff online.
A pack of 100 "xacto" blades size 11. Metal and plastic mini funnels. 10x 100ml and some 30ml mixing bottles w. metal tip and cap for dispensing precise drops. An UV flashlight 365nm, must remember to buy uv goggles for protection later. Some drill bits. Found some Dspiae sanding sponges to my surprise.
A pack of 100 "xacto" blades size 11. Metal and plastic mini funnels. 10x 100ml and some 30ml mixing bottles w. metal tip and cap for dispensing precise drops. An UV flashlight 365nm, must remember to buy uv goggles for protection later. Some drill bits. Found some Dspiae sanding sponges to my surprise.
24 April, 18:30
April 21, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I cleaned out one item off my metaphorical shelf-of-doom, and felt a little better about myself 🙂
1 21 April, 11:07
April 20, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I quickly tested a mix recipe by someone on youtube. Some Vallejo Air paint mixed with this "thinner" solution, and some Vallejo Primer paint mixed 50:50 or so, with this "thinner" solution. And just quickly using a paint brush on a spare part, I see the paint is drying ok, so usable at least.
Thinner solution: 70% Vallejo Flow Enhancer + 30% Vallejo Thinner + 10% gooey Retarder medium (somehow this is over100%)
So I prepared this solution in a small nifty squeeze bottle with a metal pipe/tip that dispences nice clean drops, unlike the large Vallejo bottles that spill drops of cleaner/thinner/paint all too easily.
Will try this out later with an airbrush.
Thinner solution: 70% Vallejo Flow Enhancer + 30% Vallejo Thinner + 10% gooey Retarder medium (somehow this is over100%)
So I prepared this solution in a small nifty squeeze bottle with a metal pipe/tip that dispences nice clean drops, unlike the large Vallejo bottles that spill drops of cleaner/thinner/paint all too easily.
Will try this out later with an airbrush.
20 April, 07:52
April 17, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Does anyone know why there are such a part for the drive sprocket for the US M1A1 tank?
I bought an aftermarket kit for tracks including extra drive sprockets, but these other ones look like the one in the drawing.
I haven't been able to find any photo showing any tank use this "round" disc on the drive sprocket wheel.
Image below is some random image off the internet that looks like the aftermarket part I have.
[img1]
Hm, I did come across some variant of the Abrams that have these on the box art:
cybermodeler.com/hob..it_panda_35038.shtml (a kit review)
Hmm, seems like there were some Abrams variants before the M1A1, and that the M1ip was in between M1E1 and M1A1? I had no idea there were other earlier variants.
tanks-encyclopedia.c..ed-performance-m1ip/
I bought an aftermarket kit for tracks including extra drive sprockets, but these other ones look like the one in the drawing.
I haven't been able to find any photo showing any tank use this "round" disc on the drive sprocket wheel.
Image below is some random image off the internet that looks like the aftermarket part I have.
[img1]
Hm, I did come across some variant of the Abrams that have these on the box art:
cybermodeler.com/hob..it_panda_35038.shtml (a kit review)
Hmm, seems like there were some Abrams variants before the M1A1, and that the M1ip was in between M1E1 and M1A1? I had no idea there were other earlier variants.
tanks-encyclopedia.c..ed-performance-m1ip/
17 April, 17:30
April 10, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Aaah. Fixed my DAB radio's wonky button. Imagine turning the volume knob, and volume goes to 100% even if you try to turn the volume down. I unscrewed the whole thing, un-bent the four metal pins that held half the potentiometer (or whatever it is called) onto the other half inside the volume knob and wiped the contact surface with airbrush cleaner, as I didn't have anything other than maybe cleaning alcohol. And some dirt (oxidation?) came off and it worked. 🙂
10 April, 18:57
April 9, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Anyone tried airbrushing a mix of Vallejo polyeurethane primer with Pledge?
I am willing to try this out, but I thought maybe his comment about the paint going "rock hard" after 15 minutes, was a little worrying re. cleaning the airbrush afterwards:
Youtube Video
I have some Pledge around, but never use it.
I am willing to try this out, but I thought maybe his comment about the paint going "rock hard" after 15 minutes, was a little worrying re. cleaning the airbrush afterwards:
Youtube Video
![](https://img.youtube.com/vi/pUYpGp8b22k/maxresdefault.jpg)
I have some Pledge around, but never use it.
9 April, 07:42
April 7, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
What are these round things seen on a modern warship?
I thought they might be for storing a fire hose, but these are empty, and they look a little different from each other as well these two.
On a kit model, I would have thought that one glued these "rollers" on, but then had to add some wire/tread to replicate a fire hose, but maybe these are for something else?
[img1]
I thought they might be for storing a fire hose, but these are empty, and they look a little different from each other as well these two.
On a kit model, I would have thought that one glued these "rollers" on, but then had to add some wire/tread to replicate a fire hose, but maybe these are for something else?
[img1]
7 April, 06:50
April 4, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Re. the hard metal lever/knob/trigger on the airbrush (Iwata Eclipse HP-CS):
Any trick to change the texture of the hard metal surface?
I was thinking of maybe there was a way to add some soft rubber onto the airbrush trigger, but I am not sure what might even work.
I find my index finger getting sore sort of, and I find it annoying when airbrushing.
I know I can use my thumb, but it seems a little clumsy.
Any trick to change the texture of the hard metal surface?
I was thinking of maybe there was a way to add some soft rubber onto the airbrush trigger, but I am not sure what might even work.
I find my index finger getting sore sort of, and I find it annoying when airbrushing.
I know I can use my thumb, but it seems a little clumsy.
4 April, 20:36
![](/profiles/img/56165-775-s.jpg)
You can get thin foam sheets. I used them for masking bomb bays and wheel wells, etc. You could cut some to the shape of the trigger quite easily. I think I found mine on Amazon.
4 April, 22:22
April 1, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
owns this item
1 April, 18:37
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I had to get this one, as this vehicle is featured in the multiplayer game Squad (a game on Steam platform). 🙂
1 April, 18:40
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
owns this item
![1:35 Japan Ground Self Defense Force Type 16 MCV Metal Gun Barrel (Tamiya 12686) 12686](/products/img/1/2/4/1160124-41450-62-t180.jpg)
Detail Up Parts Series
Japan Ground Self Defense Force Type 16 MCV Metal Gun BarrelTamiya 1:35
12686 2018 New tool 1 April, 18:36
March 27, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Hmm, there's unfortunately a local hobby store (Oslo) that is closing down, but I think I can't/won't spend money on this for the discounted items, bad timing. 🙁
27 March, 08:34
March 25, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Re. Rivet decals..
Q: Do rivet decals add physical raised details? (i.e adding small bumps to the flat plastic)
Q: Do rivet decals just add colored details, without raised details? (i.e airbrushed paint removes the effect of the rivet decals?)
Q: Do rivet decals add physical raised details? (i.e adding small bumps to the flat plastic)
Q: Do rivet decals just add colored details, without raised details? (i.e airbrushed paint removes the effect of the rivet decals?)
25 March, 08:38
August 26, 2024
March 22, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Hrm, are the flamboyant decals here the only option?
A photo show a mostly plain gray one, is that an option as well in the paint guide?
22 March, 08:39
March 21, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Does anyone have this for sale anywhere? 🙁 I ask because this thing isn't even available at Hobby Link Japan, in Japan.
![1:700 WWII US Navy Cranes for Battleship (Lion Roar R7060) R7060](/products/img/8/4/9/248849-14904-76-t180.jpg)
WWII US Navy Cranes for Battleship
Lion Roar 1:700
R7060 21 March, 11:02
February 20, 2024
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
I found some new metal file tools:
plazajapan.com/4902944113845/ (square)
plazajapan.com/4902944113821/ (flat)
plazajapan.com/4902944113838/ (round)
Another round file: Super fine.
plazajapan.com/4943209382286/
Sort of looks like this is higher quality, or, finer grit compared to some cheap ones I've been buying.
This tool also looks like it would fit into smaller openings.
plazajapan.com/4902944113845/ (square)
plazajapan.com/4902944113821/ (flat)
plazajapan.com/4902944113838/ (round)
Another round file: Super fine.
plazajapan.com/4943209382286/
Sort of looks like this is higher quality, or, finer grit compared to some cheap ones I've been buying.
This tool also looks like it would fit into smaller openings.
20 February, 08:18
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Oh, wow, finally some more civilian scale model kits. 🙂
Ideally, I would like to see more of the digger machines seen in Europe, and not the Asian ones.
2 20 February, 08:04
February 19, 2024
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I have invested into a proper office chair, though I guess I can't have it all. So it is an all-too-expensive chair, but it is ergonomic and is suitable for a standing desk, so taller than usual. Downside is that, it wasn't designed to be a comfy chair. I have yet to try out the chair, but I like finally getting something else other than the squeaky low cost chairs I've been using for all these years. Funnily enough, I also have a designer chair already, a replica of a Corbusier chaiser lounge 4 or somesuch. Relaxing, but definitely not a comfy chair. I now found a way to use this other chair to watch youtube and will keep it next to the office chair by my computer. 🙂
1 19 February, 13:38
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As long as it's ergonomic and suits your body it'll be comfortable for you, just like firm car seats is better than soft ones for a longer drive. I've got a top of the line office chair that I got for free from a company that was about to chuck several in the bin due to extensive wear on the cover fabric on the seats. Perfectly good to sit in and I got one for my lady as well at the same time.
19 February, 13:43
February 2, 2024
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Q: Is it possible to get an ultra matte surface with Vallejo Matte varnish, or must one look for other brands?
2 February, 19:19
January 31, 2024
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In order to try preserve my sheets of 'bare metal foil', I finally got around to fill an industry big plastic container for chocolate, filled it mostly with bubble wrap plastic,and then I cut the unopened sheets of foil into, and stacked the foil. Hopefully this airtight container will help preserved the metal foil that has this adhesive on it. I've noticed that the adhesive on the foil seem to have gone harder to deal with I think (unsure), the bare metal foil were previously just lying in a drawer.
31 January, 10:43
wnolder.php?lang=en
2024-01-31 10:43:20
2016-12-08 20:43:11
28845
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