F-15C RIAT 1997
Freshly sanded, polished and dipped in Gauzy Glass dip
Tinted Windshield.
Tamiya Clear (20Drops) + Yellow (1 Drop) 2~3 layers, followed by straight Tamiya X-22
Tamiya Clear (20Drops) + Yellow (1 Drop) 2~3 layers, followed by straight Tamiya X-22
Revell Exhausts built and prepped for installation
Test fitting
Bit of sprue and a dremel...
almost....
Scratchbuilt arrestor hook, CHECK
Scaling check...
Primed and propped for cleanup works
First camo painted with marbeling motions
Highlight added, using Flat white and marbeling motions. Afterwards, Toned with Dark Aggresor Grey (RC246), heavily thinned
First camo completed, now time to let it dry and see if any Touch-ups are necessary.
After using my last Blu-Tack, Highlights added, using Flat white
2 layers of RC248 later..... looking nice, but will wait til tommorow, how it dries. hoping I don't need to add another layer and "risk" losing the highlights
...or not.... xD patience isn't my strong-suit xD
MLG Detailing
Nozzles Painted.
-Entire Nozzle painted Tamiya Gloss Black (X-1)
-Nozzle Ring Painted AK-XM Polished Aluminium
-NzR. Dusted with AK-XM Pale Burnt Metal (Slight golden effekt)
-Nozzle Pedals and actuators painted with AK-XM Jet Exhaust
- NzP Dry Brushed in multiple Layers:
Mr.Hobby (Aq) Burnt Iron, then AK-XM Steel.
-Nozzle insides Painted with AK-RC 222 (Insig. White)
- Weathering using White Spirit, Black and Burnt Umber Oil Paints from Winsor Newton.
-Slight dusting with black Pigments from ABt. 502 (ABTP023)
-Entire Nozzle painted Tamiya Gloss Black (X-1)
-Nozzle Ring Painted AK-XM Polished Aluminium
-NzR. Dusted with AK-XM Pale Burnt Metal (Slight golden effekt)
-Nozzle Pedals and actuators painted with AK-XM Jet Exhaust
- NzP Dry Brushed in multiple Layers:
Mr.Hobby (Aq) Burnt Iron, then AK-XM Steel.
-Nozzle insides Painted with AK-RC 222 (Insig. White)
- Weathering using White Spirit, Black and Burnt Umber Oil Paints from Winsor Newton.
-Slight dusting with black Pigments from ABt. 502 (ABTP023)
Brake and Power Lines added. Sadly, I couldn't find any Detailed or rather, High Res Pictures of the MLG & NLG.
AK Panelwash (AK2072) added to highlight details.
Loose testfitting of the MLG, just to see if it looks the part and how stable it is, without the provided steelrods
Decaling completed
Comments
35 21 July 2022, 01:04
Pascal Klasen
Super! Kleiner Tipp, nimm den hellen Rahmen mit dem Tiger Kopf von meinen decals und den Piloten Schriftzug von Furball. Die Furball Rahmen sind viel zu dunkel und gehen unter.
Super! Kleiner Tipp, nimm den hellen Rahmen mit dem Tiger Kopf von meinen decals und den Piloten Schriftzug von Furball. Die Furball Rahmen sind viel zu dunkel und gehen unter.
30 July 2022, 16:04
Donnie Briscoe
Habs gemerkt, allgemein, sind interpretationen des Dunklen "Mod-Eagle Grey" auf den Furball Decals zu dunkel. Danke für den tip 🙂
Habs gemerkt, allgemein, sind interpretationen des Dunklen "Mod-Eagle Grey" auf den Furball Decals zu dunkel. Danke für den tip 🙂
30 July 2022, 17:37
Giorgos
Watching! I just found the same kit at a good price and I am researching the builds from other mates! Love your work so far. Question: I understand you used the Eduard PE for the Hasegawa kit. Did you have any issues?
Watching! I just found the same kit at a good price and I am researching the builds from other mates! Love your work so far. Question: I understand you used the Eduard PE for the Hasegawa kit. Did you have any issues?
10 August 2022, 11:24
Donnie Briscoe
Hi Giorgos.... Yes and yes... :/ The Instrument panel doesn't fit at all, had to trim the PE to fit. Luckily it's just on the Topside, which is hidden by the IP-Cover. in retrospect, using a full Cockpit Resin kit would have been better. Guess thats one of the reasons, why you can pick this old kit up, for so cheap xD Also for my bird I had to remove the rear Pike between the Engines. For engines, I'm using Engines from a F-15E Kit by Revell (Which will become a future What-If project 😉 )
Hi Giorgos.... Yes and yes... :/ The Instrument panel doesn't fit at all, had to trim the PE to fit. Luckily it's just on the Topside, which is hidden by the IP-Cover. in retrospect, using a full Cockpit Resin kit would have been better. Guess thats one of the reasons, why you can pick this old kit up, for so cheap xD Also for my bird I had to remove the rear Pike between the Engines. For engines, I'm using Engines from a F-15E Kit by Revell (Which will become a future What-If project 😉 )
10 August 2022, 11:55
Giorgos
Thanks Donnie! This is very helpful! Looking forward to your further updates!
As regards a resin cockpit kit, I did some research and didn't find one available for the Tamiya kit... So I would suppose that using the AIRES set for Hasegawa would also be problematic to install.
Thanks Donnie! This is very helpful! Looking forward to your further updates!
As regards a resin cockpit kit, I did some research and didn't find one available for the Tamiya kit... So I would suppose that using the AIRES set for Hasegawa would also be problematic to install.
10 August 2022, 13:05
Donnie Briscoe
Thats the one I meant. My main problem was getting the IP und der the IP-Cover, thats why I had to trim the PE.... The hasegawa cockpit replacement also replaces the Cover(the part, where the HUD is mounted). maybe a tight squeeze and some sanding required, but still should look a LOT better, than the oob Cockpit.
Thats the one I meant. My main problem was getting the IP und der the IP-Cover, thats why I had to trim the PE.... The hasegawa cockpit replacement also replaces the Cover(the part, where the HUD is mounted). maybe a tight squeeze and some sanding required, but still should look a LOT better, than the oob Cockpit.
10 August 2022, 14:21
Giorgos
Well, that's a good idea right there Donnie! Indeed, the AIRES set has separate IP-Cover!
Well, that's a good idea right there Donnie! Indeed, the AIRES set has separate IP-Cover!
10 August 2022, 14:38