Revell MG TC 1945 - WIP

Tom ...
Finally got some work started on this one. The tooling on this kit is not great. Lots of flash, extreme pin marks, weird seams and super sharp edges. Decided to do 400 and 800 grit sanding on the whole body to ensure the primer sticks as well as tackle all the defects. The Stynylrez yellow primer goes on real smooth so I think in future I'm going to be more aggressive with sanding.

Progress will be slow as I'm going to use oil paints for some of the interior and Alclad for the chrome so need to purchase both and figure things out, particularly the oil paints. Still, I should be able to get the body and chassis completed quickly.

Tom ...
Got the body's base coat done. Very happy with the result. Have weird pitting problem with the hood but apart from that very pleased with the Iwata Revolution CR.

Also managed to go purchase Alclad paints for doing the chrome pieces, and some oil paints so it was a good day of progress on that front.

Tom ...
Just finished spraying Alclad Chrome (107). What amazing stuff. Pure liquid joy in a bottle. Never had anything so satisfying to spray before.

@Martin or @Spanaard ? - I see what you mean about the plastic having to be perfect. Quite an eye opener!

Tom ...
Finished the chrome pieces. Very happy with the result. The body pieces also turned out really well. Still a little texturing on the clear coats but nothing like before. In fact this is as good as I'd want to get with glossy coats as I'm a fan of super shiny cars. The better quality airbrush has definitely helped.

Martin Oostrom
Hi Tom,
Now that's a very nice red car. I like the colour. I always use 300 grit for my regular builds as that is good enough for matt paints. But for super shiny, higher grit is needed. I made the mistake on the Honda 750. Alclad over 300 grit equals disappointment.
Good to see that the iwata is such a pleasure 👍

Bob Hall
I'm With Martin on that ! That one mighty fine looking little red car ! (makes ya want to start humming "little red corvette" ) LOL !

Chris Greathouse
#28 yay for dust bunnies! You're in my realm now... but your dust bunnies are still prettier than mine 😛

Tom ...
Meh, got more done. I have the "cockpit" left to finish painting. Going to try using oil paints for the leather seats and canvas covering. The dash board looks really hard. lots of tiny details.

Bob Hall
I been Wondering how this was going. I like it ! Looking Good my friend !

Chris Greathouse
Tom, you're so way ahead of me in skill, but I'm comfortable with where I'm at, yeah the FXXK was a long journey that came out looking good... But anything you've done is great/amazing... You too Robert 😄 (don't get me wrong, I loved the FXXK project, and I love that it's sitting on my shelf 😄 )

Chris Greathouse
and damn that's a purdy red color you got there 🙂

Greg Baker
whoa... now that's shaping up to be a real beauty.

Tom ...
Trying oil paints for the first time. Definitely a different beast. I think I like them but it's going to take a bit of figuring out for sure.

M M
What color are the seats? I just picked up Tamiya NATO Brown because it looks like a nice dark oiled leather.

Tom ...
M, It's a blend of (mainly) Burnt Sienna and some Cadium Yellow (Winton oil colors) and I might have put in a bit of Burnt Umber but I forget. I think I'll be doing a second coat so the color might change again depending on how I mix.

Chris Greathouse
How did you like applying/removing the micro mask? Did it actually mask, or was there any bleedthrough... I've thought about picking some up, looks like it could be useful.

Tom ...
Chris, haven't gotten there yet. Going to paint the seat a darker brown so they don't match so much with the body. Going to make the canopy a little deeper too. I'm curious too about the liquid mask.

Haven't had time to do much lately. Hopefully this weekend I can make some actual progress.

Greg Baker
Man. That's looking like one sweet ride!

Chris Greathouse
Awesome job man! Sweetness 🙂 Can't wait to see the darker color seats/canopy 🙂

Gordon Sørensen
Great looking MG, Tom!

Tom ...
Thanks, Gordon. I'll be glad when it's done. The oil paints take a long time to dry.

Got started on the dashboard. Using oil paints to create some kind of wood look. For a kit that doesn't have much detailing, the dashboard is crazy detailed. Not sure how I'm going to paint it without making look like a complete mess. Unfortunately the dash is also a kind of focal point for the car as there is not much else going on in terms of details... Oh well.

Bob Hall
Well, This is an option if so inclined to use.

[img1]

Tom ...
Thanks, Robert. The kit does have decals for the dials which I might use. First going to see if I can just use paint/pens to do the fine details. Will be interesting.... once the oils dry that is...

Tom ...
Ha! I figured out a way to do the dials. Just thinned out the paint with retarder and flooded them (twice). Once it's fully dry I can rub off the raised parts a little more.

Bob Hall
Cool ! Looking sweet thus far !

Chris Greathouse
Great dash!

M M
Wow Tom this is looking great! Your body came out nice and the dash looks great.

Tom ...
Made progress with the dash. I saw someone use epoxy to create the glass covering for dials so I nervously tried it. It came out great. I also read a recommendation to use Tamiya clear yellow and clear orange (50/50) to create a varnish effect. Unfortunately had to brush paint it as I couldn't figure out how to mask anything.

A little more detail work on the center part and then I can finally complete the build.

Chris Greathouse
That's beautiful!!

Chris Greathouse
By the way, I vote for the Isetta as your next build when you get done with your current builds... I want to see you do that one 🙂 and make it a fun funky color you don't normally see on the road, but when you see it, you're like that's a dope color car 🙂

Tom ...
Ha, I've been eying the Isetta the last week or so. I think I just might.

M M
Tom! Those dials! Well done. Care to share the link that shows the epoxy technique?

Tom ...
M, I don't remember. It wasn't an article but rather a build picture where the person mentioned they used 5 minute epoxy for the effect. I actually used 30 minute epoxy as my 5 minute stuff is too old and cloudy.

For me I very gently mixed the epoxy with a toothpick so as not to create air bubbles. I also used the toothpick to transfer the epoxy to the dial. Practiced a lot first with scratch piece of plastic to get a feel for controlling the amount of material and avoiding air bubbles.

I think the important trick is to make sure to work the epoxy into the edges of the dial. That was a bit nerve racking as the epoxy does not really flow so you have to be a firm with it spreading it out. Hope that helps some.

Also be careful when removing the toothpick at the end so you don't get a "string" of epoxy on your model. Take it out real slow and vertically, and maybe twist it to help detach the clinging epoxy.

Chris Greathouse
So much patience you have 🙂

M M
Thanks Tom. I will file that away in the memory banks. Chris this hobby has helped find more patience LoL!

Bob Hall
Zen like Even !

Tom ...
Got it finished tonight. Did not enjoy this build though I did learn a lot. The problem is that it doesn't fit together well. In future I'm going to stay away from inexpensive kits, unless they have very good reviews or I have no other option. Onwards and upwards!

Bob Hall
Hey ! It came out great ! Very Nice ! But I know what you mean, I really not impressed with a lot of the Revell of Germany Kits. My Chevy Impala Police car fell into that category. Great Job my friend !