He 111H-3
Comentários
Rui SI agree. Very well done 👍
IMHO, the upper photos look a litle bit to bright/whitish? 🤔
Sean SheppardThey were taken with a grey scale card (or whatever they're called) and the balance adjusted accordingly so should be okay, may just be on a very white background! 🙂
Bart TeunisSean say it out loud I make make my whitebalance with a greycard 😉.... white with gray ??? Better use a expodisc far more accurate!! Sorry habit left after my Photography study 🙂 Really it is the way to make a perfect whitebalance, YouTube has a lot of info. A graycard is to much depending on the reflected light
Sean SheppardTo be honest, I am happy with using the grey card, the standard of the photos isn't that important to me
Album info
A good, but not perfect kit. Most of it went together well but the two problem areas were the engine nacelles (although I think if you show the engines it would be fine, it was fitting the cowling round that results in gaps and poor fits). The other issue was the inner walls of the cock pit as the kit has the top and bottom separate, results in a nasty seem in the detail. The biggest problem is in the radio room, which isn't visible in the final model, there is a bit of an issues in the cockpit too, which is visible. The decals weren't the best, but went down fine. I also added riveting details as I felt the detail was a little sparse without it
In terms of the after market: the Nose Interior, Steel Seat Belts and undercarriage are all very worthwhile additions. They all add more detail and improve the model, and importantly are highly visible on the final model. I maintain HGW fabric seat belts are still the best, but the extra thin steel seat belts from Eduard are a more than adequate replacement if they're not available and much better than their standard PE ones. The Radio Compartment adds a lot of detail and really improves the look it isn't visible on the final model unless you keep the top fuselage piece loose (which I didn't as I don't the idea of having loose bits everywhere). The Bomb Bay is actually just bomb bay doors, which are a bit more refined than the kit parts but I don't think are worth buying, especially as the wheel well door are still kits parts. The Master Gun barrels, as always, add a great amount of detail and extra strength to parts that stick out, definitely worth the investment, but I will say that for some reason the Master barrels were much longer than the kit parts.
Nothing of note in terms of the weathering or paints, I used a combination of black basing and pre-shading for painting and then a clay wash on a satin coat. I didn't both with leaks etc, mainly because I was happy with the look after the clay wash and also just wanted to get it done in the end. I did spray Tamiya Smoke for the exhaust stains for the first time, which I think worked well, although I still prefer using oils I think. I used Ammo Mig Russian Earth pigment for the wheels, previously I rubbed the pigment in then applied a clear to fix in place, but this time mixed the pigment with enamel thinner and brushed it on and then rubbed off the excess after it dried, I think it could probably have done with another clear to fix in place though
An okay built, but I was pleased to see it come to an end
