Новостная лента

Doubtingmango
So I just finished this little Italian job. The decals came out with a lot of the edges showing, which then got a lot worse when I added some washes. I used Microset on the decals, and then sealed them with Tamiya semi-gloss before the washes, but it actually looks like the washes got under the decals. Any thoughts?

Bogicevic Vladimir
It looks like you haven't spray gloss coat before you applied decals. Or decals didn't set well. There are two solutions. One is lacquer thinner. Put the thinner with fine brush in dots over the place where you have silvering. Thinner should destroy the film. If it raises paint under, just leave it, it will settle back. Important thing here is that, once you applied thinner, you shouldn't touch decal for something like 20 minutes, at least. Second way is mix of sugar and water, half - half. You make a hole with a needle on the decal, than you put mix on the top. It should enter in the space between decal and paint and, when drayed, make a gloss film in between them which will act as a gloss under the decal. Wipe excess mix with wet cloath and you are done.

Mr James
How annoying. I've never heard of the sugar water trick from Bogicevic. I'll be interested if this works. If the thinner, sugar trick fails, what else can you do but use a scalpel to cut around them, since you've sealed it,

Mr James
Oh, nice paintjob by the way

Doubtingmango
Thanks mates! I believe Bogicevic is right. I think I did fail to gloss coat before the decals. I think I'll try the sugar water first

Bogicevic Vladimir
Ok. There are few small tings I should add then. Heat the water first, when hot it will disolve sugar beter and apply it while it's still warm, it will have more viscosity. Make small hole or slice with modeling knife, put few drops of mix on the top and let it dry. You will see emidiatly if it's penatrating. When dry, wipe carefully excess mix with moist cloth. Repeat where neaded. I know it sounds ridiculous, but it worked for me many times.

Doubtingmango
Thanks Bogicevic! I'll give it a shot. If it doesn't work I'll try the lacquer thinner technique. I love this site!

Mark Sherwood
Where the *uck's this been hiding. Very nice build Mr Mango and I hope the decal solution from Bogicevic work's out🤞

Doubtingmango
Thanks Mark! So I punched some holes in the decals and applied the warm sugar water, but unfortunately it did not seem to make a noticeable difference. I decided my best shot was to just grab the scalpel and remove the decals, which was very easy. Bogicevic said the solution would get under the decals! I have successfully applied new decals, and my little Italian job is now base-worthy. New pics to come.

Bogicevic Vladimir
Well, you find a solution, which is the most important thing. I can not know why something that worked for me many times does not work for you in this case. Maybe that what I think is silvering is residual glue from decal paper. Who knows... Anyway, good luck with your project.

Doubtingmango
Thanks Bogicevic! You were definitely part of the solution

John
All's well that ends well. 👍 Mango, your builds have me hankering to do some armor but I still have commitments to do a couple more a/c. When I do get a chance, part of me wants to start small with a Pz IV, but another part says go for broke and do a Maus!

gorby
Very nice work!

Neuling
Good result anyway!

Doubtingmango
Thanks guys!

Doubtingmango
As promised, new pics of the new decals have been added, along with pics of the work I have started on the base. Once again, thank you for the help Bogicevic!

John
Really cool base! 👍

Guy Rump
Great result on the tank, the base looks good too. 👍

Doubtingmango
Thanks John and Guy!

Doubtingmango
More work on the base. Just need to paint up the base and add foliage

Ludvík Kružík
I still miss this small helicopter in my collection of flying machines used in Czechoslovakia. The time has come for me to rectify that. 😉

Villiers de Vos
I will follow along.

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome Villiers! 🙂

Greg Baker
Oh. I built a 1/72 version of the Mi-1M... This should be interesting.

Ludvík Kružík
Hello, Greg. I know there's a Mi-1M kit in 1/72nd scale. Unfortunately, only this and a rather old kit from Special Hobby exists in 1/48 scale. In addition, this kit is an older version of the Mi-1A, which is different from the upgraded version of the Mi-1M. It has a different nose shape, different cockpit glazing and other minor changes. And since I decided to build the upgraded version of the Mi-1M, I will not avoid modifications to the kit.
To give you a better idea of the extent of the modifications to the kit, I've included a picture with the differences between the Mi-1A and Mi-1M versions color coded.

Greg Baker
Oh, neat! I didn't realize there were so many changes between the versions. This is going to look great!

Ludvík Kružík
Greg, thank you for your support.
____________________
I started building the model by making new transparent parts.

Alec K
Taking a seat, this brings back memories of ABC magazine 😜👍

gorby
Nice work moulding the new transparent parts.

Greg Baker
Yeah. Nice work on the heat-n-smash moulding for the clear parts. That can be tricky to do.

Ludvík Kružík
@Alec K
I used to buy ABC magazine regularly as a kid and eagerly awaited each new issue 🙂. I assume your mention of ABC magazine refers to the occasional modeling tutorial section.

@gorby, @Greg Baker
It's not too difficult to make new transparent parts by stretching warmed transparent foil over a pre-made template. Preparing the template is the most work. Stretching the warmed foil onto the template is just a routine that anyone can do after a few attempts.

Alec K
Correct 🙂👍👍

Robert Podkoński
How have I missed this? Taking a seat for sure! 🙂

Ludvík Kružík
Hello, Robert! Good to see you here. You haven't missed much so far. Up to this point I've been more concerned with preparation than building the model.

Ludvík Kružík
I want to try to use the sandwich construction in the production of new glass parts for the coptics. So I made (using the same process as the transparent parts) parts out of white plastic sheeting. These parts will have holes cut out for the windows. The transparent part will then be inserted between these two parts. The white outer and inner parts will form the embossed framing of the transparent part.

Jennifer Franklin
That looks great (as per usual 😛)

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome, Jennifer, we're glad to have you on board and thank you for your goodwill. 🙂

Ludvík Kružík
I came back from vacation and it started to rain. Ideal conditions for modelling. 🙂

So I'm back and continuing to work on the model. I need to glue the finished nose to the glued fuselage so the cockpit overlay fits exactly. That determines the workflow. First I have to finish the nose and the inside of the fuselage and glue all the parts that need to be glued to the fuselage halves from the inside. After gluing the fuselage halves together, I would no longer be able to get to these parts (or only with great difficulty).

Photos of the work progress will be coming soon.

Alexander Grivonev
Oh some modeling for big boys, not glueing perfectly fitting parts together and throwing on some paint! Following 👍

Nicolas
Following

Dave Flitton
Watching. The build is great, so far.

Bruce Huxtable
Really liking all the extra care you are putting into this, and the 'soft' camo looks great 👍

Trez Mackenzie
Thanks Bruce - I must say it's been a bit of a struggle so my expectations are not too high for this build. More build experience required!

Mr D
Doing a good job Trez ...looks nice, interesting subject 👌
I built the Revell FW-190 the canopy was very ?? Let's just say be great for bathroom privacy glass 🤣
But the model built up ok in the end and don't even think much about it now..... The paint job makes a model in the end. Look forward to next step.😁👍👍👍

Trez Mackenzie
Thanks for the encouragement Mr D 😊

Rui S
Welcome to scalemates🙂 SLAVA UKRAINE 🇺🇦💪✌️

Maxim Scale Soul
Вітаю!

J35J
Great work and attention to details! Following👍🏻

Sarunas D
Impressive amount of detail