Новостная лента

Michael Kohl
We all love a good fight and this kit fought you hard. But - man you came out the winner - with flying colors I´d say.
Great overall look. IMHO you nailed it.

gorby
WOW! Considering the decal nightmare you've managed to bring this one across the line a winner. Fabulous result.

Neuling
A winner indeed!

nikfrost
Very impressive, well done!

Nicolas
Great. If the kit dosn't want to end up like you want just do something else with it. 👍

Ant Ricco
Thanks so so much for the comments everyone really appreciate the encouraging comments.

Spanjaard
great recovery indeed, it looks really good

Ethan Flory
Looking very good!

Tim Lingle
Hi Denis, I'm not sure why but I've always loved the Gannet and I think yours is such an inspiration building. If you don't mind me asking, about how many hours do you think you've put into building the kit and how would you rate the overall fit?

Cheers!

Denis Bugakov
Greetings, Tim. The model evokes a twofold feeling. On the one hand, everything fits together well and there is practically no need to adjust the details, the wings, stabilizers and interior details are perfectly designed and fall into place perfectly. But there is a slight disappointment. The rivet is slightly swollen, a gap forms at the junction of the wing and stabilizer and it is desirable to remove it. The set includes two wings in the assembled and disassembled position, so you do not need to cut and adjust anything. In general, the model is pleasant, but very heavy at the exit, since almost 100 grams of cargo must be put in the nose so that the model does not sit on the ass.

George Williams
Such a good looking plane.

Eric Thornton
100 grams, ok adding this to my notes. Looking great!

Stephan Fässler
Masterpiece, well done.
Did you use lacquer paint with acrylic washes on this model?
Thanks

Zbynek Honzik
👏👏👏

Gary Victory
Really nice build and finish Denis. Great job Sir on a British classic.

playtime 222
Uniquely ugly 😄

gorby
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.

Lenny Li
I think that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!

Neuling
Watching .....................

Jakko ‌
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄

Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.

> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!

Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉

Ben M
👀 fascinating vehicle.

Mr D
Looking good, weld's coming on nice 👍

Ben M
How did you hold the wheels in the lathe?

Jakko ‌
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.

@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.

Ben M
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!

Mr D
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍

Jakko ‌
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉

@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.

gorby
I've just seen an Uncle Nightshift vid on adding weld seams:
Youtube Video

Jakko ‌
Thanks for that.

Michael Kohl
Cool car you chose for your first project. Have fun.

Irineu Junior
Thanks Michael! I've always wanted to build a rally car like this!
I'll try to keep that album updated.

Sam S
Taking a seat 👍🏻

Irineu Junior
After applying primer: preparing for paint.

Irineu Junior
Chassis painted with spray. I'll take the paint off the can and use in airbrush.
It will be easier to control the flow, mainly on the body.

Bozzer
I always enjoy a first build. Taking a seat. Anyone sharing popcorn???

Jv
Sure to follow
Bozzer you can have some popcorn 🍿

bossy122
Having done one of these recently, I will give you a heads up that the decals canbe a tad brittle, especially the big ones going across the doors. LOTS of softener needed. PS: beautiful seal point.

Jennifer Franklin
Following

Carlos Proença
Junior, beautiful painting. This is a rally classic. Good choice.

Irineu Junior
Thanks, folks! I'll try to update frequently.
Good tip, @bossy122, thank you!
I messed up a lot with the panel line scraper, had to fix with CA and sandpaper…

Irineu Junior
Display base acquired!

George Williams
Looking good so far.

George Williams
Looking good so far.

Irineu Junior
Thanks guys! Keep on moving!

Irineu Junior
Body painted, with airbrush and decanted TS-50. Next steps: decals and clear coat.

Irineu Junior
Most of decals applied. Next step: gloss coat and finish.

bossy122
Do not use Tamiyas TS 13 clear. It will melt your decals.

Spanjaard
first build? it looks real good, keep at it 🙂

John Hughes
File too big, maybe?

Thomas Steinke
2,5Mb, do not exactly know if this is too big?!

Thomas Steinke
No doesn't works with a 164kb picture…

David M
I'm seeing the same issue with a Project cover image jpg of 165kb.

Skyhiker
I can't upload in an album.

A.J. Madison
Check Data suggestions. Uploading is broken. I had uploaded yesterday, but got rejections on everything I tried to day.

Treehugger
2.5 MB for an image is probably considered large. It sort of looks like your image is lossless, which imo is pointless and unecessary if not intended for some kind of production.
A lossy format would have to do imo (like jpg). Then you end up with some file size of about 300kB or something like that.

If you wanted to print something on a quality printer expecting a quality print, an image typically cannot be the "internet kind of jpeg", because the size is all wrong, just too small. So such images used for production of prints, has to be huge. One exception I guess would be vector based images. Rasterized images is the problem afaik, requiring excessive fidelity for physical prints.

The other day I received a movie poster print, and I was a little disappointed, as the print is a little blurry, as if they just tried to print this poster using some internet jpg file. 🙂

Btw, I think I've seen pdf files here on scalemates I think that are either too good or too bad in resolution, both unfortunate imo.

Many, many years ago, I sent someone a tif file I think it was, it was just an 3d rendered image, and the guy then complained about how my one image file filled up his email account limit or something.

Eddie Mann
It's probably a storage issue.

George Williams
Lovely presentation.

Robert
nice and grisp...

Spanjaard
wow, just awesone