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shadowlight
Hi mates, How do you make rivets? Raised and embedded ones...
In a large scale like 1/12 it may be appropriate to use punch sets and glue the single rivets onto the surface or drill holes and fill it with 3d-printed rivets. In small scales like 1/144 you may use rivet wheels to make a line of holes. But what about the scales in between? I know there are "rivet decals" from different manufacturers (Quinta Studios, HGW, Micro Mark, Eduard, Archer) on the market but i couldn't find comparisions and reviews to find out how good is the 3d-effect or how flat they are and what about the easy of use and the transfer film still beeing visible. Questions about questions...
So I am asking for easy fast and good looking ways to create raised rivet lines and/or lines of embedded circles.
In a large scale like 1/12 it may be appropriate to use punch sets and glue the single rivets onto the surface or drill holes and fill it with 3d-printed rivets. In small scales like 1/144 you may use rivet wheels to make a line of holes. But what about the scales in between? I know there are "rivet decals" from different manufacturers (Quinta Studios, HGW, Micro Mark, Eduard, Archer) on the market but i couldn't find comparisions and reviews to find out how good is the 3d-effect or how flat they are and what about the easy of use and the transfer film still beeing visible. Questions about questions...
So I am asking for easy fast and good looking ways to create raised rivet lines and/or lines of embedded circles.
9 June, 13:59
gorby
Most of my scratch builds are in 1/48 and I make raised rivets by using a rivet wheel or pointed object on 0.2mm plastic sheet and then use that as a 'skin' for the model. This is the effect: 100% Scratch-Built Angry Slug – A7V in 1/48! | Album by gorby (1:48)
Alternately, Green Stuff World sell a rivet mould. Go to photos 73 & 74 of this album: Gorby's wondrously weird whatsit – The Fowler Steeplechaser | Album by gorby (1:48)
Most of my scratch builds are in 1/48 and I make raised rivets by using a rivet wheel or pointed object on 0.2mm plastic sheet and then use that as a 'skin' for the model. This is the effect: 100% Scratch-Built Angry Slug – A7V in 1/48! | Album by gorby (1:48)
Alternately, Green Stuff World sell a rivet mould. Go to photos 73 & 74 of this album: Gorby's wondrously weird whatsit – The Fowler Steeplechaser | Album by gorby (1:48)
9 June, 16:37
shadowlight
On photo 19 of the second album did you used the rivet wheel on a very thin sheet so you could "bend" the back side of the sheet around the round surface? It seems so - is it what you mean by "skin"? For 1/48 and the Green Stuff World only the smallest ones might be useable?
On photo 19 of the second album did you used the rivet wheel on a very thin sheet so you could "bend" the back side of the sheet around the round surface? It seems so - is it what you mean by "skin"? For 1/48 and the Green Stuff World only the smallest ones might be useable?
9 June, 16:57
gorby
Yes that is what I mean by 'skin'. I found the best way to attach the skin to the model is by double using sided tape, or super glue on curved sections. The usual plastic glues melt the rivets.
The GSW mould - the smallest ones are good for largish rivets in 1/48.
Yes that is what I mean by 'skin'. I found the best way to attach the skin to the model is by double using sided tape, or super glue on curved sections. The usual plastic glues melt the rivets.
The GSW mould - the smallest ones are good for largish rivets in 1/48.
9 June, 17:27
shadowlight
Has no one experiences with rivet decals or other methods then rivet wheels?
Has no one experiences with rivet decals or other methods then rivet wheels?
13 June, 10:13
Tony May
Interesting technique gorby, I never thought to use a tracing wheel on card stock & flip it to make raised rivets. Wouldn't the extra sheet of card stock put whatever was in 1/48 slightly out of scale though? Hmm.
shadowlight, I've never personally tried the 3D printed rivets on decals but I've seen some fantastic results. I'm obsessed with detail but even for me that's a bridge too far. I like the rivet wheel for 1/72 well enough because it allows you to bring them out with a good preshading treatment or an oil wash. Even as I say this it nags at me that I cannot apply a wash to the base of rivets & then dry brush highlights to the tops of them! This is becoming a dangerous topic for both my wallet & my modeling future. 😉
Interesting technique gorby, I never thought to use a tracing wheel on card stock & flip it to make raised rivets. Wouldn't the extra sheet of card stock put whatever was in 1/48 slightly out of scale though? Hmm.
shadowlight, I've never personally tried the 3D printed rivets on decals but I've seen some fantastic results. I'm obsessed with detail but even for me that's a bridge too far. I like the rivet wheel for 1/72 well enough because it allows you to bring them out with a good preshading treatment or an oil wash. Even as I say this it nags at me that I cannot apply a wash to the base of rivets & then dry brush highlights to the tops of them! This is becoming a dangerous topic for both my wallet & my modeling future. 😉
24 November, 13:21
Steven Van Dyck
I use a rivet punch to put individual rivets. It has about 20 different widths, but can only make sunken rivets. [img1]
[img2]
I use a rivet punch to put individual rivets. It has about 20 different widths, but can only make sunken rivets. [img1]
[img2]
24 November, 21:03
Tony May
Sorry to have reactivated a nearly 6 month old topic, shadowlight, but I thought I'd just share my own personal thoughts on the matter.
That's actually a pretty nifty tool there, Steven. I like how it provides more than just an indent for where the rivet is supposed to be. In 1/32, 1/35 & maybe even 1/48 it'd be a huge advantage over a rivet wheel. However, it looks like it's kind of difficult to keep a fixed distance been the rivets & create an even punch? As much as I would love to be able to reproduce that in my scale for added detail, at 1/72, just placing that depression there with the rivet wheel gives the clear impression of rivets. After all, that scale was originally meant to be seen from arm's length or at least that's what I read somewhere along the way...
Perhaps that tool could be improved though? I don't know anyone in the market of manufacturing tooling like this so I can't even pitch the idea. Maybe someone else will pick up on this & run with it? Dunno. Anyway ...
My idea was to have 40 pieces plus an adjustable armature that connects two of them - A punch & an unsharpened punch that would just saddle into a previously punched rivet. Therefore, 20 pieces would be punches while twenty of them would be these other things. The armature I imagine would be adjustable, kind of like a drawing compass but instead of being at an angle it would splay the two pieces a good fixed distance apart from one another for even spacing. Once you punch a rivet you move the fixed unsharpened piece into the depression around the rivet thereby allowing you to line up & form the next consecutive rivet. There would have to be a little "play" in the connection to the armature, specifically on the side of the punch, so it could be depressed without doing it at an angle. (Doing it at an angle could be bad with the other part of my idea.)
The tip of the punch would have to be redesigned for my concept. Instead of a straightforward sharpened edge you press into the plastic to create a circular shape, instead, make one to where the punch is wider & the sharpened edges taper down to be more narrow. It can only be pushed down so far though as inside of the tapering edges it has a terminating semicircular "chamber." The tapered edges would slightly displace the plastic upward so that it presses into that semicircular "chamber" thereby forming a rivet head that slightly rises from the surface of the plastic.
The only concern I have is that not all polystyrene is alike. I've worked with some nasty, brittle stuff & I've worked with some that is painfully soft too. (I swear some of the early Minicraft 1/72 B-17s & B-24s could flap their wings without reinforcement!) Both can be problems. Therefore there's the risk is that when you pull away the punch you come out with a plug of plastic that WAS going to be a nifty raised rivet with an indent all the way around it as well.
However if it works right you'd be able to use a wash around the base of the rivet & lighter shading on the surface to make them pop out more from the surrounding features. Do you think it'd work or is it too much of a liability in the case of damage or perhaps it's too fiddly to be worthwhile?
Sorry to have reactivated a nearly 6 month old topic, shadowlight, but I thought I'd just share my own personal thoughts on the matter.
That's actually a pretty nifty tool there, Steven. I like how it provides more than just an indent for where the rivet is supposed to be. In 1/32, 1/35 & maybe even 1/48 it'd be a huge advantage over a rivet wheel. However, it looks like it's kind of difficult to keep a fixed distance been the rivets & create an even punch? As much as I would love to be able to reproduce that in my scale for added detail, at 1/72, just placing that depression there with the rivet wheel gives the clear impression of rivets. After all, that scale was originally meant to be seen from arm's length or at least that's what I read somewhere along the way...
Perhaps that tool could be improved though? I don't know anyone in the market of manufacturing tooling like this so I can't even pitch the idea. Maybe someone else will pick up on this & run with it? Dunno. Anyway ...
My idea was to have 40 pieces plus an adjustable armature that connects two of them - A punch & an unsharpened punch that would just saddle into a previously punched rivet. Therefore, 20 pieces would be punches while twenty of them would be these other things. The armature I imagine would be adjustable, kind of like a drawing compass but instead of being at an angle it would splay the two pieces a good fixed distance apart from one another for even spacing. Once you punch a rivet you move the fixed unsharpened piece into the depression around the rivet thereby allowing you to line up & form the next consecutive rivet. There would have to be a little "play" in the connection to the armature, specifically on the side of the punch, so it could be depressed without doing it at an angle. (Doing it at an angle could be bad with the other part of my idea.)
The tip of the punch would have to be redesigned for my concept. Instead of a straightforward sharpened edge you press into the plastic to create a circular shape, instead, make one to where the punch is wider & the sharpened edges taper down to be more narrow. It can only be pushed down so far though as inside of the tapering edges it has a terminating semicircular "chamber." The tapered edges would slightly displace the plastic upward so that it presses into that semicircular "chamber" thereby forming a rivet head that slightly rises from the surface of the plastic.
The only concern I have is that not all polystyrene is alike. I've worked with some nasty, brittle stuff & I've worked with some that is painfully soft too. (I swear some of the early Minicraft 1/72 B-17s & B-24s could flap their wings without reinforcement!) Both can be problems. Therefore there's the risk is that when you pull away the punch you come out with a plug of plastic that WAS going to be a nifty raised rivet with an indent all the way around it as well.
However if it works right you'd be able to use a wash around the base of the rivet & lighter shading on the surface to make them pop out more from the surrounding features. Do you think it'd work or is it too much of a liability in the case of damage or perhaps it's too fiddly to be worthwhile?
25 November, 14:53
Emil Chua
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Scottish
Highlander Piper & Infantry Normandy, June 1944 Gecko Models 1:35
35GM0006 2020 Новая разработка 25 November, 14:52
Steve Schilbe
пометил этот товар для продажи
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M1224 MaxxPro MRAP interior 3D decals for Kinetic kit
Quinta Studio 1:35
QD35096 2023 Новая разработка Цена пока не указана
25 November, 14:52
Felix
добавил новый фотоальбом.
добавил новый фотоальбом.
11 изображения
Airfix Gloster Gladiator Mk.IIНовый: 25 November, 09:48 1:72
AK Interactive dark earth was sprayed first after laying down the Ammo Mig grey primer. Now lots of shading with white a...
Проект: Airfix Gloster Gladiator Mk.II
8 20 November, 12:52
Nicolas
Following.
To rotate the pictures go in the Album: manage: advanced options.
Following.
To rotate the pictures go in the Album: manage: advanced options.
25 November, 14:50
Steve Schilbe
завершил
завершил
Sturmmörser Tiger RM61 L/5,4 / 38 cm (With Full Interior)
Rye Field Model (RFM) 1:35
RM-5012 2018 Новая разработка 25 November, 14:49
Stewart Clarke
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44 10 May 2021, 20:17
Peppy
Stewart, is not afraid of the rigging.
So very awesome.
Excellent collection.
Stewart, is not afraid of the rigging.
So very awesome.
Excellent collection.
11 May 2021, 02:38
Neil
Stewart... WOW! 👀 There's an awful lot of work to be highly (and rightly) admired in this album. Including for the reason Peppy said above 😉 Massive respect 👍💯
Stewart... WOW! 👀 There's an awful lot of work to be highly (and rightly) admired in this album. Including for the reason Peppy said above 😉 Massive respect 👍💯
28 September 2021, 22:46
Guy Rump
Very impressive collection of beautiful aircraft, your rigging is excellent. 👍
Very impressive collection of beautiful aircraft, your rigging is excellent. 👍
26 March 2022, 12:05
S M
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29 3 September, 19:44
S M
Thanks, Joseph! 😄 I started designing the camo last year using some online camo generator, but it seems the website is no longer active.
Thanks, Joseph! 😄 I started designing the camo last year using some online camo generator, but it seems the website is no longer active.
23 September, 21:05
S M
After a short pause this is continuing. Hopefully I get this ready before December.
After a short pause this is continuing. Hopefully I get this ready before December.
24 November, 21:24
DerMattes
Great build so far. 👍
Sadly Air-Graphic models seems to have no quality check for their 3d prints or they do not care. Not a fan.
Great build so far. 👍
Sadly Air-Graphic models seems to have no quality check for their 3d prints or they do not care. Not a fan.
25 November, 09:21
PGLSMATES
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Tiger I "Michael Wittmann's Tiger" Normandy 1944 Late/Late Command Production w/Zimmerit 2 in 1 Sd.Kfz. 181 Pz.Kpfw. VI Ausf. E
Takom 1:35
2201 2024 Новые детали 25 November, 14:46
bughunter
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39 17 November, 16:36
Alexander Grivonev
it absolutely does look like THE street, the realism is stunning 👍
it absolutely does look like THE street, the realism is stunning 👍
17 November, 17:01
bughunter
Thank you mates! I am also absolutely satisfied with the result.
@Alexander From time to time I have done some 1:24 cars, typically from ICM.
The Benz Motorwagen is the best I think, also received an award. The newest was the Ford A released this year.
You can find them on my Projects filtered fro 1:24: bughunter
Thank you mates! I am also absolutely satisfied with the result.
@Alexander From time to time I have done some 1:24 cars, typically from ICM.
The Benz Motorwagen is the best I think, also received an award. The newest was the Ford A released this year.
You can find them on my Projects filtered fro 1:24: bughunter
17 November, 17:19
bughunter
Thanks Erik!
Both are from ebay, see the selection box: https://ebay.de/itm/163637309021
Not the perfect quality, but usable.
Thanks Erik!
Both are from ebay, see the selection box: https://ebay.de/itm/163637309021
Not the perfect quality, but usable.
17 November, 17:35
bughunter
Especially for Alex I made a picture with the Ford A. A 1:24 car fits well.
Especially for Alex I made a picture with the Ford A. A 1:24 car fits well.
18 November, 19:50
TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)
Uhhhhh - that is beautiful … both, the model and the road 👌
Uhhhhh - that is beautiful … both, the model and the road 👌
18 November, 20:11
bughunter
Thank you very much Thomas!
The Ford is not new. I showed it here in June: Ford Model A Standard Phaeton Soft Top (1930s) | Project by bughunter (1:24)
Thank you very much Thomas!
The Ford is not new. I showed it here in June: Ford Model A Standard Phaeton Soft Top (1930s) | Project by bughunter (1:24)
18 November, 22:00
Patrick Hagelstein
That road segment looks absolutely stunning! Very well done and very realistic looking.
That road segment looks absolutely stunning! Very well done and very realistic looking.
18 November, 22:12
Michael Kohl
Very fine street segment. Thanks for the link to the german manhole covers. They caught my attention too. Now it needs a more modern german car. I doubt that the Benz vehicle will do. And a figure of course. 🙂
Very fine street segment. Thanks for the link to the german manhole covers. They caught my attention too. Now it needs a more modern german car. I doubt that the Benz vehicle will do. And a figure of course. 🙂
19 November, 11:16
Mel
This is SO good. Two years ago i made something very similar but not even half as beautyful as yours. Using a deformed ferrule as a stamp for the cobblestone texture is ingenious - i whish i had known this trick when i made mine.
This is SO good. Two years ago i made something very similar but not even half as beautyful as yours. Using a deformed ferrule as a stamp for the cobblestone texture is ingenious - i whish i had known this trick when i made mine.
20 November, 22:05
bughunter
Thank you Mel!
I have to admit that I got the idea of turning an old paintbrush into a stamp from someone else on the internet.
Thank you Mel!
I have to admit that I got the idea of turning an old paintbrush into a stamp from someone else on the internet.
21 November, 16:13
PGLSMATES
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Tiger I Early Production Model with Steel Wheels w/zimmerit Gruppe "Fehrmann" Sd.Kfz. 181 Pz.Kpfw. VI Ausf. E
Takom 1:35
2202 2024 Новые детали 25 November, 14:46
mychang
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Flakpanzer Panther
20mm Flakvierling MG 151/20 and "Coelian" with 37mm Flakzwilling 341 2 in 1 Takom 1:35
2105 2018 Новые детали Несколько моделей (2)25 November, 14:45
PGLSMATES
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Sd.Kfz. 173 Jagdpanther G1 Early Production w/Zimmerit Limited Edition (Without Interior)
Takom 1:35
2125W (TAK2125W) 2024 Новые детали 25 November, 14:45
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