Новостная лента

Villiers de Vos
Off to a good start on a beautiful graceful subject.

DerMattes
Watching

Nicolas
Following

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Transall NG
The main difficulty with this kit is the fitting of engines.
Other big problem is the missing of rear engine ventilation : did not find any solution to correct it !
Good luck !

Alberto
Thank you for the warnings, I already had the idea to do engines completely open, now I think that is a good idea. What do you mean with rear engine ventilation?

Transall NG
There are 14 sloys on each nacelle, 7 each side, that were made on Jumo 004B to prevent the deposit of oil and fuel leaks and so to avoid fires on the ground.
Very curiously, Airfix forgot them !!!
There are no 262 perfect representation at this scale yet ! And each have their qualities ! Now i mix them...

Łukasz Gliński
True, engine nacelles are a pain in the... kit 🙂 Following too.

Transall NG
SLOTS, not sloys !!!

Alberto
Thank you for the info, probably i will go for engines totally exposed without fairings. i have to build the surface under the wing with milliput and 3d print the engine

Robert Podkoński
Watching with interest!

Transall NG
Nice solution yo an ugly problem... 🙂

Jan Peters
Pulling up a seat too 👀
I do like the airfix kit, but it is a bit simplified in some areas.
Where did you get those engines from?

Alberto
I bought the files from cult3d and 3d printed it with a resin 3d printer, if you search jumo004 you'll find the files they are very cheap. I also slightly modified the model for better printability in 1/72 scale.

Spanjaard
nice printed engines, looking forward the rest of the build

Guy Rump
Very nice build! 👍

CaptGPF
One word - perfect

Villiers de Vos
Very nice work and effects.

John
I am in awe of your metallic finishes. 👍

Mid Franconian
A pleasure to look at! I like the classic RCAF 104 loadout with 5 x BL755.

Michael Kohl
I love the canadian Starfighters. Great to see suchban excellent model of them.

gorby
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.

Lenny Li
I think that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!

Neuling
Watching .....................

Jakko ‌
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄

Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.

> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!

Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉

Ben M
👀 fascinating vehicle.

Mr D
Looking good, weld's coming on nice 👍

Ben M
How did you hold the wheels in the lathe?

Jakko ‌
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.

@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.

Ben M
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!

Mr D
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍

Jakko ‌
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉

@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.

gorby
I've just seen an Uncle Nightshift vid on adding weld seams:
Youtube Video

Jakko ‌
Thanks for that.

Mr D
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.

Jakko ‌
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.

Pietro De Angelis
Fantastic work, congrats!

David Taylor
really coming along.

Jakko ‌
Thanks 🙂

Robert Podkoński
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!

Jakko ‌
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.

Pepe
Looking

gorby
You're doing some excellent work on this.

Jakko ‌
Thanks 🙂

Guy Rump
Looking great, following. 👍

Jakko ‌
Cool, nice to have you along 🙂

Mr D
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍