1/35 Sdkfz 251Half track diorama
Just about to start my next project, mostly straight from the box, apart from the tracks
Started with the axles. Fits not great but given the age of the kit.
Got most of the construction finished. Did get some printed instrument dials, as there are no decals for them in the kit.
Started putting the tracks together, they are from Hobby Boss ( a rebox I think). They come in 2 parts, track and cleat. I'm glueing them and then once set clicking them together. This seems the best way as you don't have to worry about using to much glue and ending up with a frozen track length.
Spraying the undercoat, the top and bottom half are not attached yet.
Used Migs white undercoat to add some pre shading
Got the base colours for the interior painted
Masked off the seats
And spray on "leather" brown, with some very diluted light brown for high lights.
Then I have applied a wash over the base colour
After its dry for 5 minutes clean off with a brush and thinners. This is done in a vertical direction to start the streaking process
Weathered the front bulkhead, added some instruments as the kit doesn't have any decals
Started add some weathering/ rust on the inside using weather pencils from Ak
Also started add some oil stains to the floor
Test fitting as I going along, I have the seats and gear box to finish weathering so nothing is glued yet
Started the chipping process, which looks quite stark at this stage, but once the rest of the filters and weathering has been done should blend in.
Spray the model with satin vanish ready for some weathering
To get some tonal variations I have added some oil dots using mig oil brushers, with dots to match the camo and lighter dots at the top darker towards the bottom
This is what I call the "oh god what have I done to my model!" stage. Blending the dots with a flat brush, moistened with thinners.
Keep going....
Until its almost gone.
Now the oil dots are blended, I'm starting on the next stage of the chipping. Using an ultra fine gundam sepia pen to partiality fill in the gray and rust sponge chips. I use a dabbing motion, it's like rust chipping pointulism. Again it's quite stark but when the dust layer is done it will tone down. The slight outline from the underlying layer gives the chip more depth.
It's then a case of working around the whole model
Side done, bonnet still at the first stage
It this shot the left side bonnet chipping has been started , and the right still to be done.
Track disaster!!
After my plastic track balls up, I got some Masterclub metal tracks that came in the post yesterday
They 3 parts, the track links, cleats and some tiny resin pins. Spent the evening drilling out the holes and making a jig.
I a jig to make the tracks with, 2 bits of balsa with a spacer in-between and then double sided tape along the top to hold the links. The tiny resin pins are a bit fiddle, but do the job. Might replace them with wire next time I use metal tracks.
Undercoated with one shot black primer and a base coat of rusty track
Then a enamel wash of rust track and orange rust dabbed on while both still wet. The dry step, industrial dirt and track rust pigments
Used the ferrule to take the tops of the guide horns back to bare metal
Painted the tools and attached
Tracks fitted
Started on the rest of the diorama, cut out the sections of the house
There will be a little secret on this side that I will reveal at the end of the build.
The roof on this kit is a bit basic, so I have improved it by gluing in some buttons with white glue
And then some rafters with some cocktail sticks inserted in hole to represent wooden pegs in the joints
Filled around the base with vellejo putty
And wiped off with a damp cotton bud
Not sure yet where the half track will sit yet.
Masked the door surround and windows
The spray the a dark grey, followed by chipping fluid and a bone white.
Gave the road and pavement a light grey coat.
Picked out a few cobbles in white, black and dark brown.
After 24 hours gave the whole thing a brown and dark wash.
Waited 30 minutes and wiped off with a makeup sponge. Also started to weather around the base of the house
Some green slime around the down pipe.
Fence painted with acrylic wood tones
Wood painted with Burnt umber oils, edges highlighted with cream.
Furniture from Miniarts living room set
Just started to do some more work on this, wire armature tree, covered in paper towel and then diluted PVA.
Branch have been detailed with Sea foam, this will be the basis for the leaves. Undercoated with Ammo black undercoat
Tree is nearly finish, glue in the clumps of leave took for ever.
Started to add some wood fading go the facia of the roof using grey weathering pencil, also on the fence. Started to high light the cobbles as well, although this will get toned right down.
Wall paper added in the down stairs room, skirting board are painted, just waiting to dry. Also the furniture is made and under coated.
"Planted" the tree this weekend. Stuck in the foam base with PVA
Once it had dried over night covered the ground with light earth past from Ak interactive. When this was dried used various pigments (factory dirt, dark and light earth) to give it some tonal variation, fix with thinners.
Cover this with diluted pva and started to add the ground cover. This is lots of layers of crushed cork, grass tuffs, dark and light grass flock, some dried roots and final some of the left over leaf material from the tree.
Also added some rust weather to the down pipe with weathering pencils The nails in the fence and gate got a similar treatment.
Added some grass tufts to the front of the model and also more green mold around the downpipe.
Finally start painting the furniture. Airbrushed a dark red shading followed by highlights.
I`m going 3d print most of the bedroom furniture, designed a fairly simple bed, and then exported this from fusion 360 as an stl file.
This was then imported into Blender, where I made some pillows and created a bedsheet.
Next stage is to import into my 3d slicer program ready for printing.
Finished modelling the rest of the bedroom furniture, a bentwood chair, chamber pot, wash stand and wardrobe. I don`t thing I need much else and it might end up that these are too many things any way. If anyone has any ideas about any other items to make it look lived in let me know.
Printed out the main parts for the bedroom. Decided to leave out the wardrobe, not enough space. Upgraded my 3d printer to a Anycubic photon mono X recently
The bentwood chair is modelled on one I own and we bought from a carboot sale. Really please with how it printed as its a really delicate piece
Washtable from a image I found in old furniture catalogue from the 1930s
Chamber pot
Few issues with the bedprint, some of the geometry was too thin, so its blown through, I suspected this might happen . Not a huge problem, should be easy to fill
Added the windows and doors. Had some acetate with a lead glass pattern, which works quite well. Added some highlights to the door with weathering pencils.
Done a bit more painting, just deciding whether to go with a uncovered helmet or one with a camo cover.
Outlined some of the elements like webbing and pockets. Started to do some of the high lights on edges.
Also have used the base coat as a filter to tone down the camo pattern
Комментарии
64 19 February 2022, 13:51
Steven Van Dyck
The problem with this kit is the lateral dimensions. I have the brass back door replacement from Royal Model for your Tamiya kit and I compared this to the Dragon kit, on a Panzer Tracts plan: [img1]
So I hope this has no consequences for the track width.
Success with the dio!
The problem with this kit is the lateral dimensions. I have the brass back door replacement from Royal Model for your Tamiya kit and I compared this to the Dragon kit, on a Panzer Tracts plan: [img1]
So I hope this has no consequences for the track width.
Success with the dio!
8 March 2022, 11:57
Mark Broughton
Steven,
I had seen the following review before I got the tracks which says the tracks should be okay for the tamiya kit.. I have found though that the teeth on the sprocket are a little too big and the holes for the track horns too narrow, so they both need a bit of sanding.
(perthmilitarymodelli..obbyboss/hb81005.htm)
Steven,
I had seen the following review before I got the tracks which says the tracks should be okay for the tamiya kit.. I have found though that the teeth on the sprocket are a little too big and the holes for the track horns too narrow, so they both need a bit of sanding.
(perthmilitarymodelli..obbyboss/hb81005.htm)
8 March 2022, 13:37
Marco Gallmann
I'll take a seat. I like these Miniarts Buildings and the Tamiya Hanomag is also in my stash.
I'll take a seat. I like these Miniarts Buildings and the Tamiya Hanomag is also in my stash.
8 March 2022, 17:25
Mathias Decommere
Clever way to preserve the inner already painted parts while doing the outer part, always wondered how to do this easily.
Clever way to preserve the inner already painted parts while doing the outer part, always wondered how to do this easily.
5 April 2022, 23:14
Mark Broughton
@Cortex it's a small etch set from yahu models. Oddly my tamiya kit didn't have any decals for dials. Not sure if this is by design or they were just missing from my kit.
@Cortex it's a small etch set from yahu models. Oddly my tamiya kit didn't have any decals for dials. Not sure if this is by design or they were just missing from my kit.
6 April 2022, 16:11
James C
Coming along very nicely 👍
It's quite common for these older Tamiya kits to not have instrument decals unfortunately. Not sure about more recent releases post 1990 though 🤔
Coming along very nicely 👍
It's quite common for these older Tamiya kits to not have instrument decals unfortunately. Not sure about more recent releases post 1990 though 🤔
6 April 2022, 16:47
Mark Broughton
Just had one of those afternoons where you think " why do I model" ...urgh so frustrating. I was going to test fit the track, spent the morning weathering them. Came back this afternoon and honestly nothing went right. Started by feeding some track around the drive sprocket, the fit was a bit tight so applied a little bit of pressure...and the last track link snapped in half. Not a problem, I thought, as I had bought 2 boxes of tracks as a back up when I bought the kit months ago. So proceeded to feed the track around the rest of the wheels, then another one broke and this one literally just fell apart with no pressure. By the time I had given up I had about 15 broken tracks. I think that one of the enamel weathering products has reacted with the plastic track links and weakened the thinnest part. Annoying, but I had 2 boxes.... except I can't find the second box and I have literally turned my model room upside down. OK they were cheap, I'll just order another box... except no where in the UK has any in stock. So I'm taking the hint the Universe is sending me, pouring a large drink and stepping away from the model before I screw anything else up! Tracks are in the bin!
Just had one of those afternoons where you think " why do I model" ...urgh so frustrating. I was going to test fit the track, spent the morning weathering them. Came back this afternoon and honestly nothing went right. Started by feeding some track around the drive sprocket, the fit was a bit tight so applied a little bit of pressure...and the last track link snapped in half. Not a problem, I thought, as I had bought 2 boxes of tracks as a back up when I bought the kit months ago. So proceeded to feed the track around the rest of the wheels, then another one broke and this one literally just fell apart with no pressure. By the time I had given up I had about 15 broken tracks. I think that one of the enamel weathering products has reacted with the plastic track links and weakened the thinnest part. Annoying, but I had 2 boxes.... except I can't find the second box and I have literally turned my model room upside down. OK they were cheap, I'll just order another box... except no where in the UK has any in stock. So I'm taking the hint the Universe is sending me, pouring a large drink and stepping away from the model before I screw anything else up! Tracks are in the bin!
12 April 2022, 14:48
David Taylor
Did the same with my Luchs,built up the tracks ,painted and did a little bit of weathering(like my models factory fresh) paint dried tracks went rigid.Will not do that again.
Did the same with my Luchs,built up the tracks ,painted and did a little bit of weathering(like my models factory fresh) paint dried tracks went rigid.Will not do that again.
12 April 2022, 15:36
Panzerman2010
Hey Guys, yeah enamel products will eat tracks or any other small part that is flooded with it.
Hey Guys, yeah enamel products will eat tracks or any other small part that is flooded with it.
12 April 2022, 22:24
Spanjaard
looking really good. i had similar experience with a model falling apart due to white spirit eating the plastic... not pretty. using primer all around should protect the plastic, but i am using other weathering products now.
looking really good. i had similar experience with a model falling apart due to white spirit eating the plastic... not pretty. using primer all around should protect the plastic, but i am using other weathering products now.
31 May 2022, 19:51
coporado
What a lovely build and exececution. The attention to detail and craftmenship is amazing!
What a lovely build and exececution. The attention to detail and craftmenship is amazing!
15 January, 07:41
Mr James
Lovely lovely lovely... Excellent work Mark. From the tree to the furniture, to the figure painting. Very impressive
Lovely lovely lovely... Excellent work Mark. From the tree to the furniture, to the figure painting. Very impressive
19 January, 09:35
Aman S.
Following ... just finished the same half track model. This looks great so far!!
Following ... just finished the same half track model. This looks great so far!!
31 January, 03:48