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Sid de Koning
vlastní túto položku
vlastní túto položku
Fokker E.IV - Oberursel U.III Engine PE Set (for Wingnut Wings)
HGW Models 1:32
132119 2014 Nový nástroj 8 August, 11:21
Sid de Koning
vlastní túto položku
vlastní túto položku
F-5E/F/N (RF-5E) Tiger II chaff/flare dispenser for AFV Club
Quickboost 1:48
QB 49 116 2024 Nový nástroj 8 August, 11:20
Sid de Koning
vlastní túto položku
vlastní túto položku
F-5E/F/N (RF-5E) Tiger II radar warning receivers for AFV Club
Quickboost 1:48
QB 49 117 2024 Nový nástroj 8 August, 11:20
Hewd
pridal nový fotoalbum.
pridal nový fotoalbum.
27 snímky
HMS Hood Early 1941 Completed!Nový: 8 August, 11:20 1:350
I am so proud of this built i've been very hardworking almost daily and now its finally come to an end, I will miss work...
8 7 September 2023, 09:47
Robert Anderson
vlastní túto položku
vlastní túto položku
1/48 GAU-8/A AVENGER & ACES II EJECTION SEAT for G.W.H A-10C Lightning II
MINI CRAFT collection (MCC) 1:48
SP002 8 August, 11:19
Roland Sachsenhofer
pridal nový fotoalbum.
pridal nový fotoalbum.
16 25 July, 08:02
Roland Sachsenhofer
These pictures start a build that gives me my first experience with 'Clear Prop' - and they are good ones! The fineness of the shapes, the accuracy of fit and the meaningfulness of the construction steps seem to combine to create a pleasurable building experience!
This plane is also highly interesting: originally derived as a drone for shooting practice from a small civilian predecessor model, hundreds were pulverised in the air. Some of those that survived this use went on to have an amazing career as light sports aircraft and enjoyed great popularity in the 1940s.
These pictures start a build that gives me my first experience with 'Clear Prop' - and they are good ones! The fineness of the shapes, the accuracy of fit and the meaningfulness of the construction steps seem to combine to create a pleasurable building experience!
This plane is also highly interesting: originally derived as a drone for shooting practice from a small civilian predecessor model, hundreds were pulverised in the air. Some of those that survived this use went on to have an amazing career as light sports aircraft and enjoyed great popularity in the 1940s.
25 July, 08:08
bughunter
Oh, a brand new kit?
It is hard to keep track all your parallel running builds! You speed of building all those birds is simply unbelievable and a great mystery to me!
Oh, a brand new kit?
It is hard to keep track all your parallel running builds! You speed of building all those birds is simply unbelievable and a great mystery to me!
25 July, 11:44
Robert Podkoński
I have the same impressions as Bughunter, frankly speaking 🙂 Following this build for sure.
I have the same impressions as Bughunter, frankly speaking 🙂 Following this build for sure.
25 July, 13:00
Roland Sachsenhofer
Hello mates! How nice that this small but lovely project has your interest and positive feedback! Indeed, a brand new kit that immediately caught my interest when I stumbled across it - so it ended up on the workbench straight away.
To answer the question about the current density of my projects: on the one hand, I sometimes wonder myself 🙂 On the other hand, I suspect that it has something to do with running three or four, maybe even five (at the moment, for example) projects in parallel . Something is 'always' being finished or started.
Hello mates! How nice that this small but lovely project has your interest and positive feedback! Indeed, a brand new kit that immediately caught my interest when I stumbled across it - so it ended up on the workbench straight away.
To answer the question about the current density of my projects: on the one hand, I sometimes wonder myself 🙂 On the other hand, I suspect that it has something to do with running three or four, maybe even five (at the moment, for example) projects in parallel . Something is 'always' being finished or started.
26 July, 14:32
Roland Sachsenhofer
I made the following preparations for the bright red of the final surface: first I applied yellow followed by a layer of white to the model. After drying, I sanded this base, which should make the following red "glow", with 1000, 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper to make the colour layers more transparent again, to get a smooth surface and to find any flaws - you can see a few exposed on the fuselage and tail unit. I am surprised by the very high quality of the kit and look forward to finishing it!
I made the following preparations for the bright red of the final surface: first I applied yellow followed by a layer of white to the model. After drying, I sanded this base, which should make the following red "glow", with 1000, 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper to make the colour layers more transparent again, to get a smooth surface and to find any flaws - you can see a few exposed on the fuselage and tail unit. I am surprised by the very high quality of the kit and look forward to finishing it!
2 August, 19:30
Roland Sachsenhofer
It looks like the Culver PQ-14 is ready! This was a most enjoyable project from start to finish. I am delighted with my first "clear prop" kit and I enjoyed the unusual history of the original. I made the seat belts and the aerial wiring, everything else can be found in the beautifully finished kit.
Thank you for your interest and your helpful and motivating comments!
It looks like the Culver PQ-14 is ready! This was a most enjoyable project from start to finish. I am delighted with my first "clear prop" kit and I enjoyed the unusual history of the original. I made the seat belts and the aerial wiring, everything else can be found in the beautifully finished kit.
Thank you for your interest and your helpful and motivating comments!
7 August, 19:03
MS K
pridal nový fotoalbum.
pridal nový fotoalbum.
44 19 May, 09:40
MS K
Painting the shell requires drying time, so I started working on something else in the meantime, and it happened to be a BMW again. 😉
Painting the shell requires drying time, so I started working on something else in the meantime, and it happened to be a BMW again. 😉
28 May, 08:05
Treehugger
Presumably a good-enough decal softener will help against silvering, where silvering is air tapped under the decal because of the rough texture of the painted surface.
Solvaset = stronger decal softener
MicroSol = default decal softener?
After applying a decal softener, the decals MUST NOT be touched, even if it starts looking wrinkly. The wrinkles all disappear after a while.
One thing I like to do after airbrushing on primer and also paint, is to gently go over with sanding sponge, but never over edges as that will surely removed paint off the plastic, but large flat surfaces are typically safe to sand down very gently, to create a more flat surface. For this to work, it is important that the base layer, the primer paint, is sanded flat first, else the uneven primer paint will show through the paint layer, if you only sand the paint layer on top.
Presumably a good-enough decal softener will help against silvering, where silvering is air tapped under the decal because of the rough texture of the painted surface.
Solvaset = stronger decal softener
MicroSol = default decal softener?
After applying a decal softener, the decals MUST NOT be touched, even if it starts looking wrinkly. The wrinkles all disappear after a while.
One thing I like to do after airbrushing on primer and also paint, is to gently go over with sanding sponge, but never over edges as that will surely removed paint off the plastic, but large flat surfaces are typically safe to sand down very gently, to create a more flat surface. For this to work, it is important that the base layer, the primer paint, is sanded flat first, else the uneven primer paint will show through the paint layer, if you only sand the paint layer on top.
30 May, 06:26
schecter87
I'm using Tamiya Mark Fit Super Strong. Just apply the softener to the surface of the decal and after a couple of minutes, gently press it onto the surface with a cotton swab. If the decal is not welded, then it may fall off in pieces along with the varnish 🙁 .
I'm using Tamiya Mark Fit Super Strong. Just apply the softener to the surface of the decal and after a couple of minutes, gently press it onto the surface with a cotton swab. If the decal is not welded, then it may fall off in pieces along with the varnish 🙁 .
30 May, 11:59
Sy Bar
Love the use of UV resin on the logo badges, an idea I'll use from now on many thanks
Love the use of UV resin on the logo badges, an idea I'll use from now on many thanks
26 June, 07:51
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