newsfeed
Mark Wpridal nový fotoalbum.
6 snímky
Kaido Copen
1:24
Went with a completely different color after a handful of missteps. I painted the roughest parts with a bit of rust-like...
projekt: Kaido Copen
12 17 December 2024, 17:56
Mark WThanks! Kei cars are an amazing thing. These over fenders were a universal free file, first for shows that it'll be a bit of a struggle to get fit. But a challenge isn't a bad thing.
1 19 December 2024, 15:57
Mark WWell... First attempt at glueing the over fenders on was a failure.
BSI Super Gold+ was used, felt like it was good, then I set the body down and half of them just popped off. Sanding super glue off a kit body is for the birds. And if this fails 2 or 3 more times I won't have fenders to glue over fenders on to :/
Wondering if I should try a different super glue, a 5 minute epoxy, gorilla glue contact adhesive, or a NOT free file for over fenders? I am currently testing the BSI and contact adhesive on an old kit. I plan on filling the gaps with Tamiya putty tomorrow. But I'll be browsing other STLs until then.
21 December 2024, 01:38
Mark WWould anybody share what grit sand paper they get up to on prep work before laying primer down?
I took this up to 1000# wet sanding but I'm not happy with it. I'm wondering if I need to go finer, or if I need to use hobby paper vs this wet paper from the auto parts store?
5 January, 20:37
Mike Thomas"Wondering if I should try a different super glue..."
I wonder if resin type has anything to do with the glue/adhesion? I used Elegoo Water Washable Resin and dollar store superglue on a few projects. Never had an issue with parts falling off. Also, I pretty well use God Hand sanding sponges exclusively.
1 6 January, 08:09
Mark WThanks Mike. I am also using Elegoo Water Washable and I used is the BSI super glue gentle enough for painted and clear parts. I'll try a cheap bottle on a test kit next.
The auto part store sand paper does goes from paper to sponge at 2000 grit, so I'll try to take it a step finer before laying more primer. If that doesn't work I guess I'll buy something specialty.
6 January, 12:39
Mark WI made the rookie mistake of thinking a Champaign Pearl color would spray like any other color...
My sad excuse for a desk lamp and my hubris proved that to be false. Worst job I've ever done at painting.
I tried some simple green to strip (to no avail) and ended up solving all of my problems with bigger problems. So now I'm sitting back in black primer with a few spots that I can't sand out without altering the shape of the body noticably.
Now I'm deciding if I'll pivot to a different color and live with some budget franchise body work finish, or if it's going to get the heavy weathering treatment.
25 January, 15:07
Chris T. Anpridal nový fotoalbum.
66 snímky
Airbus A400M Atlas Luftwaffe
1:72
Special guest on the co-pilots's seat. :D
projekt: Airbus A400M Atlas Luftwaffe
89 2 January, 10:23
Chris T. AnWelcome Finn. Well, "luck" is not necessarily what you need with this kit, but thanks anyway. 😛 It is probably more patience. But as a model builder, you have to have that at best anyway.
3 January, 10:06
S BSehr cool! Ich bin dabei. So wie es aussieht, brauchst du starke Nerven und Durchhaltevermögen. Ich wünsche dir beides!!!! Das Modell gefällt mir bisher sehr gut und der Co-Pilot ist jetzt schon ein Held!
1 5 January, 10:58
GuidoSome very interesting (and challenging) progress. Love the additional self fabricated pieces. 👌🏻
1 6 January, 15:24
Daniel HChecking in. Came for the pilots, staying for the excellent scratch work. 😁
1 10 January, 16:33
Fabrice TIMMERMANNice work. It makes me want to start the one I have in my statch.
1 10 January, 19:54
Chris T. AnThanks to everyone for being there. I have to vent my frustration about this kit now. I'm getting to the point where painting is next and it's hard to get a clean finish on the seams, especially the center seam of the two fuselage halves. I wouldn't have thought that (Revell) could still produce such a mess in the 21st century. The fit is worse than some kits from the sixties. I've already built a few Revell models, but I've never experienced anything so terrible. Even filling, sanding, priming, filling again and sanding doesn't help. Let's see what it looks like when the gray paint is on. In any case, I'm expecting a sobering result. I will therefore play around a bit with mottling so that the surface perhaps doesn't look quite so "monotonous" and conceals the problems. I hope that works.
13 January, 20:27
Thomas Haberl - TH SCALE MODELSTaking a seat - I agreed on a commission build for this one and unfortunately you are now confirming my thoughts about the fit when I put the fuselage together for the first time. I did not start yet and I´m a bit scared ... anything else besides the horrendous fit I should know?
1 14 January, 14:22
Erik De SmetMaybe you just got a poor kit, other modelers who built the same do not signal fitting problems, but the U/C seems to be too weak
14 January, 16:14
Chris T. AnThanks guys. To your questions:
@Thomas: I think the most important thing to pay attention to is to do all the work on the engine cowlings BEFORE mounting them on the wings. Especially detail painting and masking is difficult to do on the inner casings when they are already assembled. Well, and you can read everywhere that the wheels should be built with metal tubes instead of the thin plastic parts. Fortunately I'm spared that with the inflight version.
@Erik: It may well be that some people get good kits, but a lot of people seem to have the same problems. I've read about it in various forums (community.revell.de/viewtopic.php?t=10172 and britmodeller.com/for..us-a400m-revell-172/) and even in the German trade magazine "ModellFan" (April 2024 issue) the author/modeler mentioned problems. I'm probably just extremely unlucky.
1 15 January, 07:57
Thomas Haberl - TH SCALE MODELSThanks Chris! I will take that into account! With paint on it looks really good and worth the effort on the seams 👌
2 15 January, 17:24
Michael KohlDull plane but nice build. Anxious what you make of it. Looking at your other stuff I have high expectations. But, no pressure, man, no pressure. 🙂
1 21 January, 19:09
S MNice dedication on details! Is this a promotion for Red Bull or are their cans more suitable than others for this?
1 25 January, 23:04
AlexanderLooks amazing already! Very clean paint job on all things so far, following with great interest. 👍
1 26 January, 01:06
Chris T. AnNice if you like it. I'm currently trying to add a bit more variation to the rather monotonous surface color. Let's see how that turns out.
@SM: yes, Red Bull could actually contribute something. But that's because we simply don't have any other drinks cans in the house.
26 January, 08:35
Chris T. AnSo guys, now I need some ideas and tips from you: what's the best way to photograph this monster? I can't just stand it on the white photo cloth, the antennas on the underside will break. I'll probably have to come up with something and then retouch the aids in Photoshop. Any recommendations are welcome.
26 January, 20:35
GuidoIf you have an old poster, or some wall paper laying around, that could be your background - if you want a studio-like set-up.
And if you don't have a lighting set-up, you can place that background so that it faces the daylight.
Othewise you can go outside - not in bright sunlight, more when it's clouded or in the shades and pick a nice uncluthered background spot.
An example of that is in this album: Dassault Super Mystère B2 - NATO Tiger Meet 1977. | Album by guido.pm (1:72)
Whatever works for you - hope it gives you some inspiration. 😉
1 26 January, 21:28
Chris T. AnHey Guido, thanks for your suggestions and inspiration. I fear it will not be a matter of light and background. I have two photo lamps and photo cloths in light and dark. My problem is that I don't know how to position the model to take photos. There is no landing gear and the antennas are in danger of being damaged. I will probably need some kind of stand or hang the model somehow. Let's see.
27 January, 13:49
Thomas Haberl - TH SCALE MODELSLeave it on the Duplo rack - that has some kind of charm and will be considered in my build as well 😊 sorry that I don´t have any other input on the issues with taking pictures, but the Duplo rack is hot stuff 😍
1 27 January, 13:54
GuidoAh yes, I over looked that 🤦🏼♂️
Fishing wiring to temporary hang it?
How do you plan to display it later on then - which will give you some directions for photographing it?
1 27 January, 14:02
CuajeteHi, Chris. If you can't hang it somehow, maybe you can build a stand out of thick clear methacrylate to support the weight and dimensions of that Grizzly.
It turned out very nice. Fantastic result.
Congrats!
1 27 January, 19:15
Chris T. AnFirst of all, thank you very much for your participation and your tips. I now have the first photos in the box. I kept it simple and again placed 2 Duplo bricks under the wheel bulges so that the antennas are not damaged. It was just a bit more work to retouch everything in Photoshop. Otherwise, you have to be quite far away with the camera to capture the whole bird.
1 28 January, 10:59
Daniel HAbsolutely excellent looking bird, really enjoyed watching it come together. Beautiful work!
1 29 January, 16:21
Transall NGVery nice building ! About Revell's kit building accuracy, the problem seems to be in the choice of the place where molds are made : their Junkers Ju 290 is perfect, their C-54 is far worst than this A-400M. I have built both, and my comment is only about the ease of assembly, not about model's accuracy which is another rather common problem. Anyway, it is better to get such kits than nothing, but i agree with your overall impression.
Thanks for this big one.
2 29 January, 17:05
Oliver Schulzpridal nový fotoalbum.
9 28 July 2024, 10:39
Roy McKayLooks a good build. Nice subtle (and realistic) weathering there too. Well done.
Thinking of pulling the trigger on this kit. How did you find the build? Any comparisons to Hasegawa, Fujimi and Academy?
31 January, 13:08
Rafał Kurowskipridal nový fotoalbum.
38 25 October 2024, 16:52
Domingues_94pridal nový fotoalbum.
9 snímky
M4 Sherman Composite Hull 1/35, Infantry School Regiment, Brazil, 1957
2 31 January, 13:33
Steven Van Dyckpridal nový fotoalbum.
8 31 December 2024, 21:07
Steven Van DyckI was planning to have lots of figures in this diorama, but the guy who uploaded this kit to Scalemates had guessed the scale as 1/100 and it is rather 1/250. Therefore my HO scale Greeks are completely overscale and will not be used.
31 December 2024, 21:11
Steven Van DyckI started with changes to the access steps, I had to saw these flush with the base as can be seen on reference pictures. Also I had to remove a terrible warp, I did this without a base plank by connecting the corners with thick wire and bending that. I found out that Italeri reconstructed the inner naos columns like on old drawings with both colonnades equal in length. Most of the modern day reconstructions show the top row smaller, so I sawed of the first row and used this as a lengthening part. I also made the architraves thinner, these are really ugly from the box with a slanting side.
2 January, 02:40
gorbyLooks interesting. 🙂
If some bloke called Elgin turns up you may have to tell him to bugger off. 😉
1 2 January, 08:54
Ben MI bet you could get some z scale figures (1:220) and paint them however you like
2 January, 22:58
Steven Van DyckThanks for the tip, Ben, but I will solve the problem with some 1/200modern figures I got yesterday. I'll slice them and add 1mm, then cover it with a stola. I also had to perform lots of changes to the interior structure of the temple, using a floor plan I rescaled to 1/250. It appears Italeri has moved the pronaos and opisthodomos colonnades to the inside, to make up for the walls they made much thinner. I sawed out these floor parts and moved the colonnades to the outside. I thickened or replaced these walls with styrene. That meant engraving the outside of the styrene walls with block patterns. I also reversed some entrance walls because only one side of the gate part got a stone texture. I made the textureless side to go inside the wall. I moved the first two Ionic columns to fill the new space. I don't understand why Italeri is messing with the proportions of this building, just to be able to minimize the sprue variety to two shapes and as little wall surface as they could, while wanting to show off the inside. They also added the arm support to the statue, though that existed only on marble copies.
2 4 January, 01:43
Steven Van DyckThe increase in length of the sidewalls is compensated with the unused inner wall parts. The four cutouts are made but I changed the sizes by recutting each part. The inside of the walls is covered with the cutout parts, taking care to continue the masonry. Between the layers I will add another sheet of the same thickness to get to 4.5mm. I will have to use styrene for the plinths, all of these were used for the gates.
1 6 January, 00:59
Steven Van DyckThe inner walls are now connected to the outside with spacers. The plinths are machined from styrene plate so the walls fit to them. Four antes are added to the front walls. The inner tympanons are connected to the colonnade, that will fit in newly drilled postholes. I will remove the triglyphs there, they should only go on the outside and not be inclined. This colonnade isn't lined up with the outside anymore, the architrave will have to be skewed. More than 40 columns are now prepared.
1 7 January, 18:02
Steven Van DyckThe outside colonnads are completed with the different architrave lengths connected At first I tried to connect these in series but there is an inconsistency in the triglyph bases (guttae). This disappears when the parts are connected in parallel. I also removed th middle triglyph because this was split, I exchanged with a complete one. I cut the moved tympanons of the interior colonnades to make fit the roof parts. I also shifted the outside tympanons a few millimeter outward, so they would extend like on the pictures.
1 9 January, 13:31
Ben MI feel like I need a degree in classics and one in architecture to follow this build. The corrections you are doing are fantastic. This will be something special when you are done. How will you paint it? Seems hard to get in all the nooks and crannies.
9 January, 15:38
Steven Van DyckThanks! I'll be using a Rustoleum Ivory spray can for primer. Then the usual modulating. It helps to have a degree in archaeology, there was even a small copy of that statue near my classroom.
9 January, 16:46
Steven Van DyckI leveled the front walls with the middle structure and joined the ceiling parts after removing a small strip, so the pattern would match. Then I compared the 2 kit figures with some Schulcz figures I had. The kit figures are larger than 1 cm, so these are over 2 m 50 long in reality. They can only be used as statues. My added 1/200 figures are about 9mm to 7mm, so these are more realistic. To make them look like ancient Greeks, they are dressed in alu foil.
1 12 January, 21:06
Steven Van DyckA small change was done to the front wall to improve symmetry. The base was filled in where I had changed components. One of the interior pillars was straightened and now the colonnade and the temple inner walls could be connected to the ceiling, that was only held up by the thin outside Italeri wall. For this a series of strips was cut out in thin styrene so all ceiling beams could get postholes in the outer walls. Then these strips were split in half so you get copies for each side. The same was done for the colonnades, but with a piece of sprue in between two strip halves. That creatded an architrave that could rest on the colonnade near the goddess statue. A smaller version was made for the rear room. Now the ceiling was completely closing up and I could create a link between the inner portals, that at this point were still two loose colonnades with a roof triangle on them. I closed up the ceiling on top of these with thicker styrene plate and then connected the portals with a 21 cm long sturdy strip. Like that, you can lift the two portals as a whole and dry-fit it on top of the inner walls. Now the only thing left was to finish the roof. I connected the four roof sections with a styrene plate and left some room for the distance that I had moved the outer tympanons. That gap was filled in with styrene and then the tile layers were sawn out of that, which took some time to do thoroughly. One last omission from Italeri are the imbrices on the roof, you only get the tegulae as continuous tile rows without the capping tiles between each of the two cover tiles. I currently have no solution for this IMO unnecessary omission; Italeri could simply have cast these vertical tile rows on the parts. I finished with adding the acroterions. Maybe I can look for an existing N-scale roof, because adding styrene tile profiles would be madness with about 10 meters needed.
22 January, 01:50
Steven Van DyckThe ancient Greeks are primered grey and the building is primered in marble colour. For the roof I have found a solution in Redutex stickers. These have the approximate dimensions of the roof, but will have to be cut up to fit exactly. Then they will also be repainted.
1 24 January, 15:45
Steven Van Dyck"Meden agan" is an ancient concept that doesn't apply to me... Today the painted figures have provided a sacrifice of animals, but the difference in scale means that they caught some aurochses in stead of regular oxen. I also covered the empty roof with Redutex tiles and painted these in marble color.
1 27 January, 21:10
Steven Van DyckThanks, Ben. The stone parts are now shadowed with Tamiya Dark Yellow 2 and then highlighted with white. The ceiling, doors and portals are masked to paint with Gunze Wood H37 and Tamiya Fieldgrey for bronze. The goddess statue was painted white too, then masked with gum and sprayed gold with a small rattle can.
29 January, 17:28
Steven Van DyckI painted the stars on the ceiling in AK True Metal gold and started on the decorative elements with Vallejo paints.
31 January, 14:06
ChrisI have in need of someone's help. When you either fill or file down a part of your model, is there a way in which you recover the detail on the model, for instance when you are doing the wings and parts of the body and you want to have that part of the construction showing or is it a hit and miss situation when you file down a piece of the model? I don't know the best way to word it.
30 January, 19:28
P SwizzDo you mean panel lines, rivets and other surface details? It's always best to try and preserve as much as possible during filling/sanding, but you will inevitably end up losing detail. Then you can use various tools to put the details back in. Look around for scribing tools and riveting tools, there are various things out there. I personally use cmk razor saws for scribing panel lines back in, or the Tamiya scribing tool.
1 30 January, 20:57
Ben MHi Chris, you can also use masking tape to minimize the area that gets affected by the file. This lets you file without damaging nearby detail.
2 30 January, 21:08
ChrisYou know I know it sounds like I am being really unhelpful by coming on here and asking for advice that some might say I could easily find help watching a video, however the problem with videos is that you don't always store it the correct way and then you have to focus on 2 things but having advice from other modellers is really helpful. As you might have seen I struggle alot in myself and mental health wise is why modelling is my saving grace, my Father who passed recently gave me the spirit that I needed back when doing modelling again at a time when I needed it the most! Some can say that there are a load of disadvantages such as it is a hobby which is old fashioned or it is not as exciting as playing a shoot em up game, hmmm? Think I would disagree on all levels, I don't see a problem with a hobby that some might call old fashioned because to my mind it ain't old fashioned to me! I love the idea of creating something with my heart and having my Father in the room with me when I do any form of modelling, that is just special to me!
1 31 January, 01:11
Ben MThere's an endless amount of tips and tricks, I learn new things all the time. I'm glad the hobby brings up good memories for you, it does for me as well!
1 31 January, 02:11
Casey BeckettWhat Ben said- use tape to minimize erasure from sanding - can leave you good starting points for restoring lines where you have to sand down filler, putty, gaps, etc.
1 31 January, 03:46
Domingues_94pridal nový fotoalbum.
14 snímky
Diorama Montese 1/72, Brazilian Expeditionary Force, Montese, Italy, 1945
3 31 January, 13:19
Esoteric Surgeonpridal nový fotoalbum.
6 snímky
HLF Scania P92M - Fire Engine
1:24
Actually started the double cab conversion a while back, but it ended stalling the project because I wasn't confident I ...
projekt: HLF Scania P92M - Fire Engine
5 29 January, 21:07
QwertzelI'll grab another seat in the front row! I can't miss a fire engine from the fire department. Maybe you can use a few parts of the Revell HLF 20, for example, I do it with my GW-L 2. In any case, I'm very curious what you make of it. Your other projects are always very worth seeing
1 31 January, 12:32
QwertzelJust a quick question: I saw that you labeled the parts on picture 4 with "HLF" and "MLF". These are actually typical German terms for emergency vehicles. Do you call the vehicles in Belgium the same way or is there another reason?
31 January, 13:10
Esoteric SurgeonThank you guys for being onboard ! I'm hoping sharing my progress will help me stay accountable and actually finish this one ahah
@Qwertzel I've been seeing your models popping on my feed and seeing that you already have a nice fleet going is what's gotten me to take them back out of their boxes. So thanks for sharing 🙂
For the naming, it's just another case of the german people being more efficient. The naming system in Belgium is a mess ahah
1 31 January, 13:43
Markpridal nový fotoalbum.
17 snímky
Hasegawa - Curtiss P-40 Kittyhawk Mk 1 - 1/48
1:48
projekt: Hasegawa Curtiss P-40 Kittyhawk Mk 1
4+ 9 3 March 2023, 12:33
Domingues_94pridal nový fotoalbum.
9 snímky
Dodge WC 54 Ambulance 1/35, Brazilian Expeditionary Force, Italy 1945
5 31 January, 13:12
James Wardpridal nový fotoalbum.
11 29 January, 05:31
AlexVery nice, love the details! How did you attach the stems to the ship and the wooden platform? And what colours did you use?
I plan to do an Arleigh Burke too. Back in 1996 I visited one when I was in Australia (Fremantle)
30 January, 09:27
James WardHi Alex.
Thank you for the comment. Happy to give you a summary -
On colour: I use Vallejo acrylics for the most part, airbrushed with thinner and acrylic retarder to stop it drying in the tip of the brush. The colour used was 70.990 Light Grey (for the Haze Grey) and the radars were done in 70.989 Sky Grey. The deck is about four colours, and very deliberately not uniform to try and get some variation through it... I'd hesitate to say I used one, but it's sufficient to say at its lightest, it's about one shade darker than the 70.990 on the sides. You can see the variation most clearly around the location of the aft VLS array.
Lastly, the hull antifouling is 71.084 Fire Red.
When I build the hull, I always pre-drill a couple of 1.2mm pilot holes a pre-determined distance apart (in this case I believe it was 100mm), and then do exactly the same on the wooden base, at the same distance. It's then pretty easy to drill through the stems, and push a 1.2mm length of brass rod through them which then slot into the pre-drilled holes on the plinth.
The ship can then simply slot onto those brass rods, which keeps it stable. It's great for transporting them, too. I move a lot of models to and from IPMS shows in Sydney, and I've yet to see a breakage as a result of movement in the car. Wish I could say the same about the fingers of people at the shows, though!
1 30 January, 23:04
Brandon Hpridal nový fotoalbum.
30 26 January, 19:51
Brandon HThanks Marcel! Indeed the seat cover were homemade. Actually ended up being less trouble than I thought.
1 27 January, 01:15
Alexander GrivonevWow, beautiful work! But you have to elaborate further on the seat covers, they look incredible. What do you mean "less trouble than I thought"? 😄
27 January, 07:48
Brandon HThank guys!
The lettering is actually white plastic showing through the paint after some very delicate sanding. As for the seat covers, I was initially worried that the lace would turn into an unruly gluey disaster, but the material was fairly forgiving and predictable to work with.
1 27 January, 10:20
Brandon HThanks all!
Nigel, as the owner of a G50, I couldn't stand for such sacrilege! A Crown? Sure. A President? Go for it. A Century? No way.
27 January, 23:11
Brandon HMine's one generation newer... no kit on the market for that body style. If someone came out with a nice 3D model, I'd build it.
28 January, 12:40
yngvenettBeautiful! And like everyone else I'm really impressed by the knitted seat cloths or covers. And the imitation of wood *inside* of the dashboard. Would need new steady and very small fingers to copy that
31 January, 09:31
Brandon HThanks!
No steady hands needed for the wood burl - just a ratty paintbrush, a decent airbrush, and some masking tape you can trust.
31 January, 12:58
SmallScaleIndustry .pridal nový fotoalbum.
42 24 January 2023, 22:02
SmallScaleIndustry .I found some pictures about the original kv-1 which has the text as the kit's decal, but the original tank has this additional armor. Unfortunately, the kit does not contain this armor, so to save this good decal and visual source I decided to build my own.
25 January 2023, 16:50
SmallScaleIndustry .@Villers de Vos, Thank you. This is my first armor modification, I hope it will go as planned. 🙂
29 January 2023, 19:37
Rui SThat's great work indeed 👍 Congratulations for the newborn Boy (now with two years?) and for the finished kit 😉 😄
30 January, 22:57
SmallScaleIndustry .Thank you! Actually It seems that I will have some sparetime when my son is sleeping. Time to clear the dusty boxes on the shelf. 🙂
30 January, 23:00
Mark Sherwoodpridal nový fotoalbum.
7 snímky
Hobby 2 Grand. 1.48 Hawker Hurricane MK IIA.
1:48
Hawker Hurricane MK1. F/O WL McKnight (Canadian) No242 Sqdn. Italeri 1.48 Kit. The fifth kit I built since returning to ...
projekt: Hawker Hurricane Mk.IIA Hobby 2000.
15 24 January, 19:45
Mark SherwoodThank you Gorby and Neil for your kind comments. Not as prolific as you Neil, nice work on your Diavoli by the way. Gorby, re: Scammel Scarab. British Transport information films keep popping up on my YouTube feed about these 😳 regressing me to my Yoof' and making me suspicious of these algorithms, insidious?🤔🤨🤣🤘🥸👍
1 26 January, 10:40
gorbyMust mean that deep down you reaaaaaally want to build a Scarab. The algorithm can't be wrong, you must obey. 😄
2 26 January, 10:52
DaveMark you did a great job with my favorite aircraft. feel bad about that wing snapping off, but end results is nice. If i get time in the next little while i'll make my way over to the local air museum to get photos of the one they had restored a few years ago.
1 29 January, 16:25
Mark SherwoodThis is a challenge. Thank you Ceprin (no reverse Cyrillic N on me qwerty) AHA piaHOB. (Apologies mate for mangling your name.) for the like 🤟🥸👍🇺🇦🤘
31 January, 12:19
Hugo Oliveirapridal nový fotoalbum.
5 9 July 2024, 11:26
Hugo OliveiraThank you mates. I felt I could have done better some deatils. But the owner loved it, so mission accomplish.
31 January, 12:09
Piotr Puchowskipridal nový fotoalbum.
13 31 December 2024, 12:36
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