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S M
додао је нови фотоалбум.
додао је нови фотоалбум.
55 26 February, 21:28
Rando
Very cool, I'm getting the Mikro Mir kit, interested to hear how it goes together
Very cool, I'm getting the Mikro Mir kit, interested to hear how it goes together
27 February, 00:22
Patrick Hagelstein
True! Joining in as well to see how this builds up. Enjoy the build! 👍🏼
True! Joining in as well to see how this builds up. Enjoy the build! 👍🏼
28 February, 00:28
S M
Welcome, mates! I'm building also a Hasegawa kit alongside with this for comparison and for testing painting.
Welcome, mates! I'm building also a Hasegawa kit alongside with this for comparison and for testing painting.
29 February, 06:24
Patrick Hagelstein
Łukasz, I was thinking the same. That 'old' Hasegawa kit isn't that bad after all. The MikroMir kit is only marginally more refined as it seems.
Łukasz, I was thinking the same. That 'old' Hasegawa kit isn't that bad after all. The MikroMir kit is only marginally more refined as it seems.
4 March, 14:38
S M
Hasegawa has only 60 grey parts and 3 clear parts, but it is pretty smartly made and easy to build. MikroMir has 150 grey parts, 5 clear parts and 67 mandatory PE-parts. Being a short-run kit its parts need more work to fit. Still MikroMir contains more details (and Falcon missiles) than Hasegawa so it's comparatively cheaper.
Hasegawa has only 60 grey parts and 3 clear parts, but it is pretty smartly made and easy to build. MikroMir has 150 grey parts, 5 clear parts and 67 mandatory PE-parts. Being a short-run kit its parts need more work to fit. Still MikroMir contains more details (and Falcon missiles) than Hasegawa so it's comparatively cheaper.
4 March, 16:18
Patrick Hagelstein
OK, so you do think the MikroMir kit is the more detailed one? Good to know when I get to my Austrian Draken project (sometimes this century.... )! Following your build with interest! 👍
OK, so you do think the MikroMir kit is the more detailed one? Good to know when I get to my Austrian Draken project (sometimes this century.... )! Following your build with interest! 👍
4 March, 21:00
S M
Well my background research is still going on, but atleast the cockpit is more detailed.
Well my background research is still going on, but atleast the cockpit is more detailed.
4 March, 21:19
S M
I have to update that MikroMir's IRST is not as good as Hasegawa's. The seeker head is a clear part and there is one PE-part fin, but the two-part frame is bulky and doesn't have panel lines. Luckyly the Draken version I'm goingt to make doesn't have an IRST so I used the clear part and the PE-part to improve my Hasegawa-Draken's IRST.
I have to update that MikroMir's IRST is not as good as Hasegawa's. The seeker head is a clear part and there is one PE-part fin, but the two-part frame is bulky and doesn't have panel lines. Luckyly the Draken version I'm goingt to make doesn't have an IRST so I used the clear part and the PE-part to improve my Hasegawa-Draken's IRST.
7 April, 15:44
S M
Slow progress, but I'm very proud of this simple tool that I made in 15 min to make 0,8mm diameter styrene circles.
Slow progress, but I'm very proud of this simple tool that I made in 15 min to make 0,8mm diameter styrene circles.
5 June, 17:38
Rando
Man. Struggling away with the clear parts on my RF-8 right now. Toughest part of modeling probably. Nice work on your canopy!
Man. Struggling away with the clear parts on my RF-8 right now. Toughest part of modeling probably. Nice work on your canopy!
28 June, 03:30
S M
Thanks! @Rando I agree it is one of the most tough and riskiest parts. They took me 3 days because I wanted to make them pretty shiny with Humbrol Clear, but it takes lots of time to dry and it has become too thick. Next day when I check the clear parts they have some ugly residues and unevenness +hair. On the other part I just sanded and polished some minor points, but the other part I cleaned the varnish away with isopropanol and tried to dip it in varnish again. Next day still unevenness so I just sanded and polished them avay and dipped it in my more reliable floor polish that also dries faster.
Thanks! @Rando I agree it is one of the most tough and riskiest parts. They took me 3 days because I wanted to make them pretty shiny with Humbrol Clear, but it takes lots of time to dry and it has become too thick. Next day when I check the clear parts they have some ugly residues and unevenness +hair. On the other part I just sanded and polished some minor points, but the other part I cleaned the varnish away with isopropanol and tried to dip it in varnish again. Next day still unevenness so I just sanded and polished them avay and dipped it in my more reliable floor polish that also dries faster.
28 June, 17:31
Rando
Yeah I've always had that with dipping parts in the floor polish, it doesn't dry evenly for me so I just polish with Tamiya and Novus compound. Good to get over the hump and onto painting and decals!
Yeah I've always had that with dipping parts in the floor polish, it doesn't dry evenly for me so I just polish with Tamiya and Novus compound. Good to get over the hump and onto painting and decals!
28 June, 23:59
S M
Bad luck with painting. I have to redo the top surface by removing most of the paint. It was a bad idea to preshade yellow with pink.
Bad luck with painting. I have to redo the top surface by removing most of the paint. It was a bad idea to preshade yellow with pink.
4 July, 23:05
Clement
I've had better luck using tamiya XF-3 or any other flat yellow and following with a gloss varnish.
Gunze gloss yellow, orange, white etc are virtually useless to cover anything.
I've had better luck using tamiya XF-3 or any other flat yellow and following with a gloss varnish.
Gunze gloss yellow, orange, white etc are virtually useless to cover anything.
5 July, 06:32
S M
Yeah my choice of paints haven't been perfect, but I have settled for them and now the decals have been added. The big wisent needs some fixing.
Yeah my choice of paints haven't been perfect, but I have settled for them and now the decals have been added. The big wisent needs some fixing.
12 July, 22:22
Clement
Looking good! Given how short lived that scheme was, no preshading is probably the right call anyway 🙂
Looking good! Given how short lived that scheme was, no preshading is probably the right call anyway 🙂
13 July, 10:47
S M
I hope this gets finished in one day, because only landing gears are missing. I almost ruined this model with bad painting and bad choise of gloss varnish.
I hope this gets finished in one day, because only landing gears are missing. I almost ruined this model with bad painting and bad choise of gloss varnish.
15 July, 21:39
S M
Thanks J35J, Clement, Podkon and Mimoid! The model is now ready, but I will take better photos tomorrow.
Thanks J35J, Clement, Podkon and Mimoid! The model is now ready, but I will take better photos tomorrow.
16 July, 20:43
CaptGPF
Interesting techniques on building up the afterburner can. Outside of metallics, yellow is a hard color to paint IMHO, and you pulled it off perfectly I. This build! ❤️
Interesting techniques on building up the afterburner can. Outside of metallics, yellow is a hard color to paint IMHO, and you pulled it off perfectly I. This build! ❤️
27 July, 15:30
John Hawley
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