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Martin Oostrom
Can't you strip the sprues as a whole of the paint? Dip them in a bath of paint stripper? Might be a whole lot easier than sanding each piece

bossy122
Most of the pieces are under carriage, so they're not that visible......but I stay awake at night knowing there are seams and that they must be eliminated! I think I botched the body paint job and I hadn't noticed on its original project. I just went over the lint - think HAIR - with 600 to 2000 and that took care of it. Mostly, I just thought it was funny that whomever I bought this kit from had gone to that much trouble to paint pieces ON the sprues with a brush, only to be done over with a rattlecan OFF the sprues.

Martin Oostrom
I feel your pain. I'm currently sanding tanks on a truck. Tanks that will never be seen, yet I've spent a few hours already on them.

bossy122
The TS4 German Grey isn't nearly dark enough for the dash. Or, the actual color of the dash should be black, but the instructions called out for German Grey......I dunno, Tamiya.

George Williams
Buy cheap pay twice.

Bozzer
Sometimes, it's easier to use a thin Sharpie, for knobs and buttons. It dries fast, so if you make a mistake, you can touch up, more or less, straight away. I also use a Sharpie for window rubbers, etc

Spanjaard
lots of work, but it is looking nice now.
i got this one accidentally in my stash for a very, very long time.....

playtime 222
Is this at Warton at the wrong end of the chicken cannon? Feels familiar...

Tony Stark
I believe so....

playtime 222
I had a hunch I'd seen it before. Unusual topic 😄 I did a short stint in the Typhoon software in the 90s and remembered seeing something like this on the way to the canteen at Warton.

John Hughes
Depends what you're building but usually as follows: Primer, paint(s), gloss coat, decals, gloss coat (to seal decals), then weathering products and finally a matt coat to seal the lot.

Steven Van Dyck
First remark, Tamiya paint is meant for an airbrush. Some colors can also be applied with a brush, but they dry very fast. In that case you wouldn't need to prepare the model with a primer either. I use the primer mostly because the model has building materials with different colors. Only if painting is done and decals are applied over a gloss varnish (if paint wasn't glossy), and with a gloss seal over them, should you use any wash. I mostly use colored wash. Try to remove most of it and only leave it in the panel lines. At last use a dull coat.

Kesa Tiho
Im building a german 75mm anti tank gun and japanese type 97

Kesa Tiho
Well from my experience tamiya paint can be used with a brush very well

Ben M
I think we all come up with processes that work for us. For armor models I normally prime, do preshading, color coat with acrylic, weather with cheap artists oils and pencils/pastels and then a final spray of "dust" with acrylic. Example here: Disston Tractor Tank | Album by uhrwerk (1:35)

Kesa Tiho
Thats helpful

Kesa Tiho
Thanks

John Hughes
YouTube is your friend for modelling videos too. There are many channel devoted to plastic modelling. Some of the one's I watch regularly are

Nigel's Modelling Bench (does a beginners series)

Jeff Donahue Scale Modeling

The Model Shed

Yorkshireman Models

Nostalgic Plastic

There are loads of them.

gorby
As Steven says, Tamiya acrylic paint is intend o be used in airbrushes. If that is the paint you have, the best way to brush paint it is by adding a few drops of Tamiya Paint Retarder. I know that product isn't widely available so alternately, and brand of acrylic paint retarder should work. Again if that's not something you can get your hands on try adding a little bit of Tamiya Thinners (Isopropyl Alcohol is a cheaper alternative. As it's alcohol you might need an adult to buy it for you. Most importantly, don't drink it, it isn't that sort of alcohol).
I haven't tried it personally, there is a way to mix your own paint retarder – quoting form the internet:
most acrylic retarders are just glycerin, glycerin is cheap at the chemist/pharmacy. It has a syrupy consistency so put about 125ml it in a 500ml distilled water then add about 5 drops of washing-up liquid.

Unfortunately model paints aren't as straight forward as just painting from the jar.

Kesa Tiho
I dont use tamiya acrylic i use just plain tamiya paint with no other labels on it

gorby
Plain Tamiya paint is acrylic. 😉
Somewhere on the jar it should say what it is. If it's 'X' or 'XF' then it's acrylic, if it's 'LP' then it's lacquer. I haven't used lacquer paint so I don't know how to use that.
Like I said, model paints aren't straightforward. 😄

Kesa Tiho
Oooohhh.... Well darn 😭

Spanjaard
if you not sure of how a paint will work or look like when you use it, you can use a plastic spoon to test the paint. Or if you have a model that has not been a success but it is beyond reparir, do not throw it away, remove the pain (Isopropyl alcohol can help a lot with that, and you can buy bottles of a litter or more) and use is as "paint pule". alternatively. you can use a simple piece of plastic (discarded/out of date student card, plastic packaging)....it is a good idea to test new methods and materials on something that you do not care, rather and in your latest model paid with hard earned money 😉

Spanjaard
a model can certainly be painted with a simple brush, with no airbrush. but doing it correctly needs some skills. there are pleople that can paint a model with the brush and you will not see a difference with one painted with airbrush. i am certainly not one of them 😄 😄 in any case, the trick is to use very thin layers of diluted paint (same as if you use an airbrush)

Steven Van Dyck
As I said it's sometimes possible to brush it. Once I brush-painted an entire 1/72 PBY Catalina with a Tamiya aluminum pot. But if I would use that on my current model, it has details that would completely vanish because of the thickness of the paint. I would have to thin it almost as water not to clog up my perforated photo etch, it has holes of almost a hair thick. To get the paint to cover the shiny metal I would need multiple layers of it. But using it in my airbrush with an 1/2 part of thinner that can be done in a few stages with no risk of clogging. Here you see a primer of grey Tamiya XF IJN Gray and a finish of Lifecolor acrylic over that, and I can still add a matt varnish and not clog the holes. The models you chose should not have such problematic parts, but when you get experience you will notice if the paint on a model was as thin as it could be made. [img1]

Spanjaard
interesting, I am in

J35J
Me 2!👍🏻

Ben M
👀

Jennifer Franklin
following

Robert
Inspiriert durch die aktuellen Anlässe in der Welt, meiner Liebe zum Leopard 1 und dem Wunsch ein Gebäude in 1:35 zu bauen, bin ich auf die Idee für dieses fiktive Diorama gekommen. Das Diorama soll eine Panzer Crew bei der Rast zeigen. Der Panzer ist ein Feldumbau eines beschädigten Leopard 1 der zum abfangen von Drohnen umgebaut wurde. Die Mannschaft nennt ihr Fahrzeug "Fliegenklatsche" (мухобойка).

Inspired by current events in the world, my love for the Leopard 1 and the desire to scratch build a building in 1:35, I came up with the idea for this fictional diorama. The diorama is supposed to show a tank crew taking a break. The tank is a field conversion of a damaged Leopard 1 that was converted to intercept drones. The team calls their vehicle a "fly swatter" (мухобойка).

Dieter Bihlmaier
Coole Idee...und super umgesetzt Robert !
Cool idea... and super implemented Robert !

Robert
Danke Dieter...

Robert
Die Mauerarbeiten sind fast fertig und das Dach ist vorbereitet...

bricklaying allmost done & roof prepared...

Robert
Die Mauerarbeiten sind abgeschlossen, das Modell ist schwarz grundiert und die Backsteine sind bemalt...

The masonry work is completed, the model is primed black and the bricks are painted...

Spanjaard
great idea. i love how the house is evolving

Robert
Thanks Spanjaard

Robert
Die Ziegel wurden verfugt und das Dach aufgesetzt. Die Dachrinne wurde aus einer Katzenfutterverpackung (Aluminium) und das Fallrohr aus Gussgraten hergestellt.

The bricks were grouted and the roof was added. The gutter was made from cat food packaging (aluminum) and the downpipe was made from plastic sprue.

Robert Podkoński
Great concept indeed! Fantastic job so far, Robert. Keep it up!

Robert
Thanks Robert...

Robert
Dioramarahmen vorbereitet, Straße und Gehweg angelegt. Den Kamin verfugt und die Figuren zusammen gesetzt.

Diorama frame prepared, street and sidewalk laid out. The chimney was grouted and the figures were put together.

Jennifer Franklin
I love it all. The house is incredible. This looks like it is going to be a diorama with personality!