Dragon StuG III Ausf. G
Kommentarer
5 April 2015, 21:41
Rick Beman
I'm sorry it took so long to respond. The snow is by Woodland Scenics. About $8 US for a quart. It's actually only white silica. It was attached to the road wheels and the rest of the tank with AK interactive Pigment fixer. It turns it bright blue when it first contacts the snow but dries clear.
I'm sorry it took so long to respond. The snow is by Woodland Scenics. About $8 US for a quart. It's actually only white silica. It was attached to the road wheels and the rest of the tank with AK interactive Pigment fixer. It turns it bright blue when it first contacts the snow but dries clear.
17 April 2015, 17:33
Rick Beman
Which effect do you mean? It has hairspray technique chipped whitewash, painted dirt, pigment dirt, enamel streaking, oil fading, mud made from pigment, plaster and dirt from my yard. and model railroad snow.
Which effect do you mean? It has hairspray technique chipped whitewash, painted dirt, pigment dirt, enamel streaking, oil fading, mud made from pigment, plaster and dirt from my yard. and model railroad snow.
21 July 2015, 18:15
Gary
Very nice!! I saved your pics for a referance. Can you explain the hairspray technique? Gary
Very nice!! I saved your pics for a referance. Can you explain the hairspray technique? Gary
22 July 2015, 11:40
Holger Kranich
@Gary: You first spray the color that should shine through the chipping. After it is dry you spray two not too heavy coats of hairspray.After that is dry you spray the final color. And after that is dry too, you start chipping with a wet stiff brush - and voila!🙂
@Gary: You first spray the color that should shine through the chipping. After it is dry you spray two not too heavy coats of hairspray.After that is dry you spray the final color. And after that is dry too, you start chipping with a wet stiff brush - and voila!🙂
22 July 2015, 13:23
Holger Kranich
But please remember it must be haispray! Not hairlaquer or what ever there is on the market - Hairspray;)
But please remember it must be haispray! Not hairlaquer or what ever there is on the market - Hairspray;)
22 July 2015, 13:25
Rui S
@ Gary, I've also never tried this technic. I think the color that should shine must be very strong because I know that sometimes if you over do the stiff brush or tooth pic you can go strait to the bare plastic. Hope this can help 😉
Youtube Video
@ Gary, I've also never tried this technic. I think the color that should shine must be very strong because I know that sometimes if you over do the stiff brush or tooth pic you can go strait to the bare plastic. Hope this can help 😉
Youtube Video
22 July 2015, 13:57
Rick Beman
Thanks for all the compliments, Gentlemen...The undercolor doesn't need to be heavy. Just paint as you would normally. In this case it's a simple dunkelgelb. It is highlighted, washed, chipped and faded BEFORE I apply the whitewash. I then applied two coats of aquanet hairspray. I decant it for use in my airbrush. I get more control that way. Let dry for 15 minutes. Next spray your thinned white lightly, misting it on. Try to mimic the look of worn paint as you apply it. Spray patchy areas, stay away from the corners and high traffic areas. Your just creating more work for yourself if you whitewash is heavy. Let the white dry for no more than an hour. Then Moisten, and I mean just dampen the model with water and begin to work the area. If you add too much water, you can bubble the whitewash entirely.and cause the white to come up in sheets.(if that happens, leave that area alone. It will dry fine.) Take your time and be patient adding a little water at a time. You're going for scratches and worn areas, not removal. Guys, This is just my method I used on this particular build. It's not the only way. Experiment, read, watch youtube vids and enjoy I hope I explained that well enough
Thanks for all the compliments, Gentlemen...The undercolor doesn't need to be heavy. Just paint as you would normally. In this case it's a simple dunkelgelb. It is highlighted, washed, chipped and faded BEFORE I apply the whitewash. I then applied two coats of aquanet hairspray. I decant it for use in my airbrush. I get more control that way. Let dry for 15 minutes. Next spray your thinned white lightly, misting it on. Try to mimic the look of worn paint as you apply it. Spray patchy areas, stay away from the corners and high traffic areas. Your just creating more work for yourself if you whitewash is heavy. Let the white dry for no more than an hour. Then Moisten, and I mean just dampen the model with water and begin to work the area. If you add too much water, you can bubble the whitewash entirely.and cause the white to come up in sheets.(if that happens, leave that area alone. It will dry fine.) Take your time and be patient adding a little water at a time. You're going for scratches and worn areas, not removal. Guys, This is just my method I used on this particular build. It's not the only way. Experiment, read, watch youtube vids and enjoy I hope I explained that well enough
22 July 2015, 16:07