Black Beauty - Porsche 944 Turbo
Let's see what's in the box, shall we? Kit is from Revell...
...but the moulds are from Hasegawa. So that is already 👍
We have a body
Rims look really good, not sure about those brake discs tho.
Chassis and engine parts
Cockpit and body parts
Glass. A bit thicc and uneven. Might profit from sanding and polishing
Tires look really good. With all the data on the sidewalls
At last, a small decal sheet
I start my car build always with the body to give the paint some curing time before polishing. I will remove the side molding strips. They were optional on the real car anyway and they generally will just be in the way when polishing. Another option would be to make them from plastic strips and attach after the paint job, but I think I'll bin them completely.
The cast-on handles are removed, too. Will make them from scratch probably or try to get some aftermarket stuff.
The handle cavity (?) is milled out
Using various bits
Tools of choice when working on the body: nail polishing files, scribing tool, scalpels, metal files, tape
This particular 2000 grit 3M sanding paper is a staple in my arsenal. Far, FAR superior to any other 2000 grit paper. Tamiya is sh*t compared to it. The 50 sheet packet costs around 40€, but it lasts very long and is soo soooo good.
On the other hand, the Tamiya 2000 sponge is very nice stuff.
On the other hand, the Tamiya 2000 sponge is very nice stuff.
Another staple, this superfine sanding wool. Can't live without it. Perfect for roughing up any kit part to provide a better adhesion for the paint. Treat about every part with it when cleaning up. Great stuff.
Slipped up here and there when cutting off the strips and the handles. Medium thickness Superglue was use as a filler.
Smooth
The "turbo" tag will be removed as well and replaced by an aftermarket logo.
Inside of the bonnet looks good, but these ejection marks need to go. They will be filled with superglue as well.
Fitting the diffusor
Fitting the pop-up headlights. These have to be aligned properly with the bumper and the hood
Don't be sad 🙁
The "mechanism"
These sink marks have to go tho
I virtually do not work with "normal" modelling putty anymore. This is the stuff I mostly work with, for bigger "holes to fill" so to speak. This is 2K polyester putty on the left and 2K polyester resin on the right. You will find something similar in your hardware store in your country for sure.
The putty is a thick paste and can be used on its own. You just add 2-4% of the hardener.
What I like to do is to mix it with some of the resin to thin it down and make it applicable with a brush.
Just a little dash of the hardener paste is enough.
With the putty to resin ratio I decide how thick or thin I want it to be.
We are ready to start painting. I want to show my method of holding the body. For this we need: a piece of styrofoam, four wooden sticks (skewers for shish kebab) and UHU patafix sticky pads (poster pads)
A piece of the pad is placed in all four corners of the body.
Like this. I guess you can use other similar materials like plasticine.
The sticks are placed in this criss cross pattern and such a manner that the tips at a longer and wider distance than the size of the body
If you place the body, the sticks are under tension and are pushing against the inner corners of the body creating a kind of a clamp.
The tips are held by the poster pads
With a little practice you get a very simple but secure method of holding the body. It even passes the "overhead and shaking" test 👍
It's primer time! I am going to use an all-2K approach on this build, including the primer. Here is what you can easily find on eBay (in Europe at least) Look for terms like "acrylic polyurethane" and "4:1" mixing ratio. Usually you can get them in grey, white and black.
I am going to use the black one since we are painting a black colour and even if you have a mishap when sanding and polishing the clear later on and you sand through somewhere it won't be that noticeable.
The mixing ratio is 4 parts filler, one part hardener. I use these disposable pill cups to mix the stuff. They come with a convenient scale on the side and are made from polypropylene which is not affected by organic solvents. Got them from eBay for literally 1€ per 100 pieces.
To 10 ml filler we add one part hardener, in our case 2,5 ml.
No big deal if it's a little more. I tried ratios up to 2:1 and it worked fine.
Now comes the crucial part, the thinner. In our case we DO NOT want to use the native thinner which comes with the filler/primer combo from the same manufacturer. It is way too hot for polystyrene plastic and will dissolve it and make a mess. I did some testing and it turned out Mr. Color Leveling Thinner workes just fine as a replacement.
Fill it up to the brim. The filler is fairly thick, so you need a lot of thinner.
Make sure to stir it VERY good.
And fill your spraying apparatus of choice. In my case a H&S Evo with 0,4mm nozzle and the nice big 50ml cup.
The next chain link in a perfect paint job is the de-greasing. I can not stress enough how important this step is! You want the surface to be squeaky clean and get rid of all the oils and grease which stem from your fingers and from the kit production process itself. This stuff is what is used in car paint shops and is called "Silicone Remover".
It is essentially a weak organic solvent which is strong enough to dissolve fats and oil but won't do any harm to plastic or paint. The term "Silicone Remover" might be a little misleading since you get all kinds of pastes and other stuff with this name in your DIY store for removing silicone sealing in your bathroom. Make sure you get the right one! Search for "Silicone Remover" or "Degreaser" + "Car Paint"
I apply it with a soft brush and do it in excess
I fill the stuff in glass jars so i do not always have to bother with the metal can.
You do not to wipe it off, it evaporates fairly quickly and leaves a squeaky clean surface behind. Additionally it roughens up the plastic surface just a tiny bit for the surface to make a strong bond with the layers of paint to follow.
If it accumulates in crevices and corners and you do not wait for too long you can additionally blow it off with air.
We are ready to start 👍
BUT one last preparing step is missing, the tacky cloth. Also known as "honey cloth".
It is essentially a cotton cloth soaked in some sticky stuff. It removes the dust particles from the surface. Not really necessary at the primer stage, essential before the actual painting.
Make sure the filler is good to spray and not too thick.
I do not mess around with "mist coats" and stuff. Wet coats. If the application is a bit too rough, add some more thinner.
The stuff air-dries VERY fast so if you are done with the last part, you can start again from the beginning.
I usually like to blow some air inbetween coats, especially in the corners of the parts where it dries slower and to speed things up in general.
Make sure to clean your nozzle inbetween coats, it is prone to accumulate some materian on the edge, at least in my case, and it can lead to splatter.
Three wet coats and 10 minutes later we are done.
The surface is silky-smooth after drying and can be sanded after around 3 hours (at room temperature). The beauty of 2K primer is that now I can paint with anything without having to worry it might attack the plastic and ruin my paintjob. It gets chemically bonded and is completely unphased, even by the aggressive thinners. The plastic is protected 👍
Even more important to clean your airbrush properly. You do now want 2K stuff to dry inside it!! It is unsolvable when it is dried! Might as well buy a new airbrush if you leave it accidentally over night inside.
After a couple of hours at room temperature you can start sanding the filler, although I usually leave it overnight. I use again Tamiya 2000+3000 grit sponges and the Mirka wool.
Work with the sponges at the flat surfaces, additionally with the wool in the corners. Quick and easy, make no big fuss about it. Make sure not to overdo it and sand through to the the plastic. In this case "less is more" since we want the plastic to be protected by the hardened 2K material from subsequent layers of paints and lacquers.
10 minutes of work and it is done. I also work "dry" but you can use water if you want. Blow off the dust, especially from the cracks and gaps, give it a rinse with water if you want, but make sure to blow off all the droplets and degrease with silicone remover.
This is the paint I am using. Generic automotive lacquer, VW/Porsche L041 Deep Black. Same stuff as Zero Paints. Got it from eBay. Make sure you don't get the waterbased stuff but lacquers, ask the vendor if you are not sure.
It is already pre-thinned in this case, but for nozzle sizes over 1mm. So I add some more thinner since I am working with a 0,4mm nozzle. In this case I am using the "normal" lacquer thinner and not Mr. Hobby since the plastic is protected by our primer.
To make sure my painting cabin is as dust-free as possible I spray some water on the walls and floor using a gardening handheld spray pump. The water binds the dust and dirt which would inevitably land in your paint otherwise.
Another wipe with the tack-cloth and we are ready to go!
At the base paint stage I make sure to cover all the edges with paint using a light mist coats and the give the flat surface a full-on wet coat.
In this case I did it soaking wet just to demonstrate how good the 2K primer is. Is is completely unaffected by the solvents in the lacquer which otherwise would attack and dissolve the polystyrene plastic.
The basepaint is drying EXTREMELY fast and after two wet coats we have this result.
If you get some dust on the surface despite all the measures, let the basecoat to dry for a couple of minutes more and pull the dust out with a fine needle of tweezers. You can even sand it carefully with 2000 grit paper if you have a dust particle "embedded" in the paint and give the spot another light mist coat.
You can apply your 2K clear 5-10 minutes after applying the basecoat. I use again some generic 2K clear from eBay.
Mixing ratio is 2 parts clear, 1 part hardener and up to 10% thinner as suggested by the manual. When testing I learned that adding 1 part thinner is giving me the perfect viscosity for the 0,4mm nozzle. So we have a ratio of 2:1:1 or 10ml clear, 5ml hardener and 5ml thinner.
At the clear stage I also do not mess around with "tack coats". The less exposure to the environment an this stage, the less dust you will collect. Two full wet coats, that is it.
Inbetween coats I protect the surface from the dust demon with this sophisticated contraption.
10 minutes later we apply the second coat of clear. I make sure to cover all the edges and corners first with a little less material and then give it a generous "shower" overall. But do not overdo it unless you want runners, practice is key!
This is how we want it, smooth, shiny and (almost) dust-free!
Despite all the measures some dust particles always end up in the paint, there is no way you can prevent them completely, all you can do is damage control. I would not recomment to try and remove them and poke around in the wet clear coat. There is a 90% chance you will make it worse! We'll get rid of them at the polishing stage, no big deal.
Now leave it alone for at least a couple of hours! Every exposure to "the elements" at this point only leads to more dust and dirt.
The clear coat is cured after 24 hours at room temperature but before sanding and polishing I usually let it dry properly for at least a week or more. This is why I start with the body, while it is drying I can work on the chassis, engine, interior etc.
Material of choice for sanding the clear coat: 2000 grit sanding paper and 3000 grit sponge.
Material of choice for sanding the clear coat: 2000 grit sanding paper and 3000 grit sponge.
Cut them in handy pieces and let them soak in water for a couple of minutes
We start with the sanding paper, I use an eraser as a sanding block
Work in sections, panel wise
Keep off the edges where the paint layer is thin, you might sand through
The 2K clear is pretty sturdy though and can take a lot of punishment
Following up with the 3000 grit sponge
This is the result
A silky smooth surface
Ready for the buffing disk and polishing pastes!
Time to shine!
Tools and materials of choice: Tamiya Red Compound, Finish paste (Menzerna P175), a cheap Dremel tool, a cotton buffer. And a very essential part: the tape around the drill chuck!!
The process is pretty straightforward: A speck of Tamiya compound on the part, some finish paste on the rotating buffer and just work the surface. Not too much pressure. Make sure the buffer rotates DOWN the edges otherwise you might have a bad day. Use a superfine polishing cloth to wipe the surface.
A couple of minutes later it looks like this.
You also work in sections to ensure you don't lose track and hit all the spots.
When you are finished with the red compound the surface looks already pretty good but still a bit hazy. This is where you repeat all the steps with Tamiyas blue compound. Make sure to use a separate buffer.
This is the final result.
Polishing time 45-60 minutes.
Make sure you take a couple of pictures at this stage because you will inevitable get scratches in the surface in the building process. But don't stress about it, the 2K clear coat is very resistant and unless you carve in deep grooves with a knife you'll get rid of the scratches in no time with a quick additional treatment with the buffer.
Now let's tackle the interior!
For the interior I wanted to recreate this red leather + red carpet look.
I decided to go with Revell enamels for the base paint of the interior followed by a generous wash to recreate the used leather look.
The base paint looked pretty good.
But then something went terribly wrong...
Somehow the water based wash did not get along with Revell's enamel paint which I suspect to be pretty old because it did take ages to dry. The paint was just mushy and sticky.
Without extended lamentation I removed the botched paint job with Tamiyas paint stripper and redid the paintjob, this time using Tamiya acrylics and mixing a better base shade for the red leather.
Followed by a moderate dark brown wash.
And a couple of layers of Tamiya X-19 Smoke to give the "leather" a more irregular and used look and sheen.
To apply the flocking I masked the parts which were meant to stay "leather", sprayed a wet coat of Revell enamels which behaved well this time and applied the flocking with a flour sieve.
This is the result.
The leather is too shiny though, this will be solved with some satin varnish later.
We are still not done with the interior, I wanted to add some seatbelts and another extra.
The sealing, rubber and plastic parts of the windows are masked off. I always do just one side at a time and spraying with a low pressure instead of wrapping the whole body with tape. Saves time.
After the masking I treat the surface with the Mirlon sanding wool and the silicone remover to roughen up the surface and remove the remnants of the polishing compounds and waxes. By doing it you provide the best conditions for the adhesion of the paint. The engine bay parts were sprayed Tamiya X-18 following a dry brush with grey.
The window parts were painted Tamiya XF-85 rubber black.
The reflectors for the back lights werde made from bare metal foil.
The door handles are from a scrapped VW New Beetle kit. They had to be modified slightly for the 944.
Back lights were spray painted from the inside. First the reverse light is masked off and the whole thing sprayed clear orange, then the blinker part is masked off and the braking lights painted clear red. Tamiya X-26+27
The inner ones received a couple paint layers more because they are supposed to be darker.
The window parts were pretty uneven, scratched and irregular. To ahcieve a more realistic look they received the exact same polishing treatment as the body paint. Inside and outside. Works loke a charm and looks much better.
Studio24 provides a neat little seat belt set with everything your heart desires, all the buckle parts, seatbelt fabric and even decals for the red button. The "fabric" though is just one-sided with a sticky tape on the other side. I have mixed feelings about this concept...
Anyway, this is what I came up with for the rear seats.
The beld guide inside the body for the front seat belts was made from scratch.
One area which is awfully neglected by both manufacturers and modelers alike is the inside of the roof or the roof lining. Just to give the impression of some structure I painted the inside with the according colors.
t is just a half-a** solution, but better than nothing I guess. For my next car project I would like to invest more in this area.
To not make the trunk look completely empty through the huge back window I decided to add this...retractable cargo cover(?) I hope this is the right term.
It was made from polystyrene rod, the thick tips are strips of Bare Metal foil, the canvas itself from 0,2mm tin foil
Some paint sorcery later I was quite happy with the result. The black buttons were added as well.
Seatbelts attached.
The front belts were made from proper fabric by Scale Production. They are attached to the fixed points inside, ready to be threaded through the belt guides inside the body.
Engine assembly. All the parts which woud receive a metal shade are prepared as well.
In contrary to the instruction I decided to pre-assembly all the exhaust parts first before painting because there were some nasty gaps.
Everything had to be carefully aligned before applying glue.
A solid depiction of a turbocharged engine exhaust system in 1:24.
Plastic muffle tip was replaced by a cable end sleeve in the proper diameter.
All the "metal" parts received a base paint with AK Xtreme Metal colors.
Rims in slightly brighter Aluminium shade.
The exhaust parts were painted in different metal shades grading from bright alu to burnt metal to blue ant treated with a black and a heavy rust wash.
The result is quite convincing. The "hot" tubes are rusty and tarnished from the heat.
The chassis was painted the most lazy and fast way possible: Spray Can, Tamiya TS-14.
The possibilities are limited when you want to give a solid part a translucent look. In our case the windshield washer reservoir on the left and coolant fluid on the right. A white base was sprayed over with transparent faint blue and yellowish brown to "simulate" the content.
Engine assembly, Glossy black oil filter on the right.
Quite good OOB. Here the air box and the hoses to and from the intercooler.
Really nice contrast between the "clean" engine block and tarnished exhaust. Yellow - oil filler cap.
Air box needs a repaint after some fitting issues.
One end of the belt is fixed beside the seat, the other one has to be threaded through the belt guide...
...before disappearing in the appropriate opening inside the inner panel..
...where it is leading to the seat belt retracting mechanism on the original. In our case we are content with glueing this end of the belt to the bottom of the "passenger tub".
Hard to see, but this way we achieve a realistic set belt mounting.
The passenger tub is loosely fitted to the body without glueing it in place.
The retractable trunk tarp is making a good impression.
The "wedding". Chassis is fitted to the body.
OOB engine making a good impression.
The engine splash shield and the lower part of the bumper are not depicted correctly
This is what it should look like
First I make the holes in the right place
The lower part of the front bumper is made from a piece of polystyrene sheet
already painted and polished body masked carefully
and painted with Tamiya X-18
simple, but effective!
What I also learned from building this model, ot is not easy to make pictures of a black object! Anyway the wipers were taken from a "Hobby Design" detail set and look pretty neat.
The couple few decals applied, the Porsche badge, the number plates and the lettering on the rear bumper.
One last part missing, the iconic "turbo" badge. Instead of using the ugly silver decal I found this neat set with metal transfer stickers which we know and love from Tamiya car kits.
cut out
rub on
remove foil, done
Edit: there was no turbo decal in the box. The inscription was molded onto the body which I sanded down. Man that was long ago, I forgot!
Edit: there was no turbo decal in the box. The inscription was molded onto the body which I sanded down. Man that was long ago, I forgot!
The dust devil is merciless 😭 especially on high gloss black
Kommentarer
63 3 June 2021, 12:26
Tom MooreHi Alex! I recently finished this kit, (funnily enough also in black 2k). I found the weakest aspect was the dash board which looks quite inaccurate, so I 3D printed an improved one (based on my own car). If you are interested and would like to purchase one for your kit, just get in touch! Tom.
3 June 2021, 12:49
Alexander GrivonevHey Tom, welcome to the thread!
Did not get my hand on the cockpit parts yet but that is good to know. I read a bit up on the car history and it was mentioned that the cockpit received an upgrade at some point. Maybe that was the case for the inaccuracy? Would love to see some pictures of your build 👍
3 June 2021, 13:09
Martin OostromMr Shiny with another tutorial, front row seat please. Will bring beer and snacks!
3 June 2021, 16:06
DennisSweet! Very interesting subject.
Where did you get that ZoomOn set? I need to get this and the Ferrari set too...
Behold: ye shall be witness of butts getting oiled!
3 June 2021, 19:14
Alexander GrivonevPlenty of front row seats left, Martin. And I hope you brought some sophisticated Dutch brew from backyard breweries and none of that commercial Heineken "Pisswasser" 😄
Dennis, bought the set from a French eBayer. It is even more extensive than the one on the product picture here on SCM, might do an update.
https://ebay.de/itm/23399643.._trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
He has got much more good stuff, worth a quick browse through the shop. Shipping costs are adequate, too.
3 June 2021, 19:28
Martin OostromI can recommend a nice La Chouffe Houblon. Way better than Pißwasser!
3 June 2021, 20:29
DennisRegarding that 2k Putty: does it shrink? Is it scribeable? How long is the drying time? I also guess that it will not be affected by whatsoever paint once dryed up?
My next Project is having some major sinkmarks on the Bodywork and i will need some putty "to rely on".
4 June 2021, 13:32
Alexander GrivonevDoes it shrink? - NO. This is probably the whole point of using it in the first place.
Is it scribeable? - Just the putty tends to be a little brittle sometimes, but by adding the resin it acquires some elasticity.
How long is drying time? - It depends on the temperature and the amount you are mixing up (also the amount of hardener you use) If you mix up a big batch it cures in about 10-15 minutes, small amounts tend to cure a bit longer. The surrounding temperature is essential as well. The warmer it is the faster it cures. Also adding the resin makes it cure a bit longer. I normally leave it for a couple of hours just to make sure.
You can paint it over with absolutely anything. Since it is 2K it is chemically bound in itself and does not dissolve after curing.
4 June 2021, 13:58
DennisJust checked: again pricing is ridiculous low. Found this polyester stuff on eBay for about 5,00€/250g and that polyester resin for 8,00€/250g... aaaand: ordered!
4 June 2021, 14:57
Bruce HuxtableI may not be into cars, but your masterclass is going to be both addictive and very useful. Many thanks for taking the trouble to share your knowledge 🙂
4 June 2021, 16:42
bughunterWow Alexander, what a lovely build and tutorial! Thank you very much for that!
I think you mentioned only the hardening time of the 2k Putty. But what about the curing time for the 2k Primer (and paint)? Especially how much time do you have to clean the airbrush? Also with alcohol, or "Revell Airbrush Clean"? Thx!
8 June 2021, 12:09
Alexander Grivonev2K primer curing time: It depends. Temperature and thickness of coat play a major role. I found that after 3 hours at room temp it could be sanded. Usually I leave it over night.
2K clear: needs much longer at room temp. Dry to touch after around 3 hours. Can be sanded and polished after 24 hours but I usually leave it AT LEAST 1-2 weeks before polishing because it needs that much to cure completely and get rid of the last bits of solvents trapped inside. If you polish it too early it looks fine at first but the clear "sinks in" and you might as well sand and polish again.
To speed up the curing you can "bake" all 2K materials at 60°C in your oven if your wife doesn't mind the cake smelling like paint thinner afterwards 😄. This is literally what is done in car paint repair shops, they have big ovens where the paint is drying. Higher temperature = faster chemical reaction in the paint. It cures at 60°C/1 hour as much as at 20°C/24 hours. Jokes aside, I would not recommend this method for a plastic model.
Cleaning: I wouldn't leave 2K stuff in my airbrush for longer than 1 hour. I clean all the lacquer/enamel stuff with Acetone, paints like Tamiya with spiritus and water based stuff like Vallejo with their own cleaners (window cleaner works too)
8 June 2021, 12:40
DennisRegarding cleaning your Airbrush:
i can only tell from Zero Paints 2k daimond clear (but i presume that this stuff shown here is quite similar) that i clean my Airbrush with Revell Airbrush Clean afterwards an it works fine.
8 June 2021, 13:29
Martin OostromFor cleaning I use regular Mr Color Thinner.
For holding I use the Tamiya Spray Stand, with a bit of wide masking tape over the metal springs holding the body.
Nice work Alexander 👍
8 June 2021, 15:04
Alexander GrivonevHey guys. Forgot to add - of course you can use other organic solvents for cleaning the airbrush. I actually use Revell Airbrush Clean too at the very end of my cleaning process. I leave some of it in the airbrush. It does not evaporate that quickly like aceton and it prevents the needle to get stuck overnight if you did just a "spray cleaning" without disassembly. Thinners work fine too, since they literally are meant for dissolving the paint. You just have to be careful with some thinners because they can eat away your airbrush sealings. I replaced all the rubber sealings with ones from PTFE (teflon) in my H&S airbrushes. At least in areas where there is contact with paint. Just in case.
I have seen your contraption, Martin. Actually that gave me the idea to present my own method of holding the car body.
8 June 2021, 17:26
Alec KGreat info you are sharing Alex, thanks very much. Question on using the silicone remover: you state that you simply allow it to evaporate (I.e. no rinsing or wiping). Would the oils and other "dirt" just stay behind once the cleaner evaporates? Just wondering how that works.
12 June 2021, 12:53
Alexander GrivonevThe silicone remover does one thing: breaking down the oils and fats on the surface into compounds that do not interfere with the adhesion of the paint. You can wipe it off additionally if you like, but doing so you only contaminate the surface with additional dust and fibers from the cloth, the other arch enemy of every paintjob. This is why I am not doing it.
12 June 2021, 13:37
Alexander GrivonevBy applying it with a thick, soft brush you kinda do the "wiping" already and if you are very generous with the stuff you can rinse the body with it I guess, collecting it in a container below.
12 June 2021, 13:39
Alec KMakes sense. Thanks for the detailed answer and again, for great tutorial 👍
12 June 2021, 14:13
DennisSo you use the mr.leveling thinner only for the primer, rest is the thinner that came with the 2k lacquer correct?
I am going the same way in dust protection. As an addition you can put some soaking wet tissue paper in your spraying booth plus „fog" your working place with water (I use my airbrush for that purpose) That binds all the remaining dust.
But you are absolutely right: one will NEVER achieve a complete dust free paintjob. It is quite impossible.
13 June 2021, 11:53
DennisBTW. Your extraction system looks very pro gaming level. Can you tell us bit more about the device itself? Looks very interesting.
13 June 2021, 11:55
Alexander Grivonev"So you use the mr.leveling thinner only for the primer, rest is the thinner that came with the 2k lacquer correct?" - Exactly. Since the plastic body is protected we can work with the "normal" lacquer thinners. I did try the 2K clear on my test subjects with the leveling thinner and it also works perfectly.
I do the "fogging" too with my water spray bottle, even inbetween coats when the body is coveredby the plastic container I do another "moisting" round.
The cabin was a very lucky catch for me. Found it on "Kleinanzeigen" when I was looking for something to replace my old cabin which I made from a kitchen fumehood. An old airbrusher who gave up his hobby was selling it with tons of other stuff (He worked at the Harder & Steenbeck factory) including tons of spare parts for H&S airbrushes. It is a custom build reworked from a welding fume hood. Has some real power. I did a little upgrade, added some more lights and an exhaust hose.
Was just pure, stupid luck and I do not want to take credit for that but sometimes the luck finds you I guess 🙂
Martin, I ain't even mad!
13 June 2021, 17:39
Christian WGreat wip. Like the step by step description. The paintjob is awesome!
14 June 2021, 10:17
Kerry COXYour system is easy to follow with no 'riddles' in between each step. Most helpful and the tips are most welcome. A wonderful result. ! 👍 🙂
14 June 2021, 10:29
Brandon HWow, some great info here, Alex! And the results speak for themselves so far!
14 June 2021, 11:29
Alexander GrivonevThx guys. I will let the paint cure for two weeks and I am conveniently off on a two week vacation. So, to be continued!
14 June 2021, 21:01
Alexander GrivonevHi guys. I am still alive! Started a new job in July which demands much energy and time plus I had some health issues inbetween so things have been pretty stressful last two months. Working bench was out of reach. I hope I can continue this project soon. Take care!
7 September 2021, 20:55
DennisYeah we want our mr. Shiny! There are butts in need of proper oiling 😂 🤪
Take care and take it easy buddy 👍🏽
8 September 2021, 17:34
Alexander GrivonevGents, it's been a while. Work got in the way but I finally want to finish this black beauty...
18 April 2022, 15:53
Peter HardyGood morning Martin. Alex I apologise for my tardy Dutch friend. (A bit slow if you know what I mean)!
19 April 2022, 03:41
Peter HardyTape around the drill chuck. Alex G, I would never have thought of that! And yes, I have ruined paint by having a spinning chuck hit the painted plastic! Beautiful finish too! Kudos my friend!
19 April 2022, 22:12
SpanjaardIn consonance with the magnificent exterior, you did an awesome interior
20 April 2022, 19:08
bughunterOh yes, I like the leather! And thank you very much for the detailed description of the 2K painting and polishing. I hope I don't need it for my old struts, but just in case, I know where to look 😉
20 April 2022, 19:30
Christian WGreat work! I'm impressed. What are your tools to polish the windscreen? Especially from the inside? It is one part of the work, what is a pain in the a$$ on that kind of windows (wrapped around / no seperate pieces)
22 April 2022, 06:59
Alexander GrivonevThx mates!
Hi Christian, the exact same method I used for the body. Just scroll a couple of pictures back 😉
22 April 2022, 07:12
Christian WYou wrote that. Right. I could have figured it out myself 😉 I almost never have the nerve for this kind of sanding and polishing. Respect.
22 April 2022, 08:45
Alexander GrivonevIt is a tedious job, but quite meditative and relaxing at the same time I must say. 😄 And it is definitely worth the effort.
22 April 2022, 09:58
bughunterAlexander, what impresses me most is your flexibility to achieve fantastic results in all areas. Many mates here specialise in a certain area, like some with jets, others with military vehicles, me with my biplanes - each subject has certain characteristics of its own.
But you really can do it all 👍
22 April 2022, 17:31
Michael KohlBeautiful build. I particularly appreciate you detailling your techniques. I am keen about further progress.
25 April 2022, 11:35
Alexander Grivonevthx Michael, I picked up many useful techniques from other modelers myself, so I would like to return the favor.
bughunter, specializing in one area means missing out in other areas and there are so many great kits to build and topics to explore. Plus I like the variety. If I get bored by cars, the next project is an airplane, after that military. Then the cycle repeats.
25 April 2022, 13:57
István SzücsClean and wonderful. I just love it. The colors of the exhaust system are perfect.
25 April 2022, 19:14
bughunterAlexander, good way to avoid to get bored. But you are right regarding great kits! For me it would mean buying too much! The focus on one topic helps with regarding stash size 😉
25 April 2022, 19:31
Christian WGreat. The engine and exhaust system is really good. The details of the kit are as good as well! I thought, it's like the curb side thing by Italeri. So the Revell kit is definitely the better choice. It is all oob like you wrote? I mean the parts 😉 No parts added by you?
Really good. Each part you handled.
25 April 2022, 20:45
Alexander GrivonevHi Christian. I am not familiar with the Italeri kit. This one is from Hasegawa molds and probably the better choice. Well it's not all OOB, i modified the nody a bit, got rid of the door trims, replaced the door handles. Added the seatbelts, scratch built the trunk cover. I left the engine OOB, it is quite good for 1:24.
26 April 2022, 08:56
Alexander GrivonevAgain, thanks a lot guys! Finally was able to make proper final pictures and complete this WIP album. Thanks for your patience, I did not plan for it to take 2 years but the last couple of years were not the easiest but I think I am not the only one.. I hope you could follow along and I explained all the steps properly. If not please write me! If you think what I do sucks, please tell me too! I am open for constructive criticism 😄
cheers Alex
15 March 2023, 14:23
Michael KohlIt was a joy to follow, particularly because of the very detailed description of your techniques. I will surly follow them closely when I start my Ford G40 and my Alpine 310.
The finish is marvelous outside and in, inside and out.
Now you gotta weather it. 😜
15 March 2023, 15:02
bughunterI hope I never have to build a glossy model like this, but if I do, I have a good template here. Thanks for the detailed description, also of the used materials!
And the final metal "turbo" sign is impressive 👍 Are the signs etched?
15 March 2023, 15:17
SpanjaardIt certainly is a beautiful car. Right out the Porsche catalogue, you just need the right background
15 March 2023, 16:06
Alexander GrivonevThx mates!
@Michael: yeah right where is my Vallejo mud paste 😄
@bughunter: I am not quite sure how these metal transfer stickers are made, does not seem to be etched. In fact I believe it is not even metal but some chrome plated plastic. If I had to guess I would say they are printed in some way.
@Spanjaard: do you mean a background for the pictures? Interesting, I personally like it rather minimalistic but great to hear what others think about your work. You kinda become "blind" for certain aspects of your own creation and critical input from the outside is always welcome. What would you suggest?
15 March 2023, 17:35
Kyle DeHartFantastic and absolutely the opposite of sucking. A gorgeous result.
15 March 2023, 18:11
SpanjaardWell, some people build complete garages (Bill Newcomer fantastic example I have actually built a diorama. | Album by musclecarfan (1:25) ) and some others use a simple base and a good image in a computer screen behind the model (Tommy124 is really good at that). I am sure you will came out wit something 😉
15 March 2023, 20:41
Christian WMan, this model looks so awesome! I love all the details. I love this red interior. That looks so great. Don't talk about your paintjob with all the work afterwards. Holy moly. Beautiful.
16 March 2023, 06:25
o_O o_OРезультат отличный!!! С интересом просмотрел все фото проделанной работы . Все вышло четко и аккуратно .
16 March 2023, 06:58
Album info
Being in a car mood recently, sparked by many wornderful car WIP threads lately, I thought of making another car WiP myself. Would like to show some of the techniques I use, because the mates are asking frequently.
The culprit is a Porsche 944 Turbo, because the front engine models from Stuttgart-Zuffenhausen receive too little love to my liking in all the sea of 911s.
Paintjob will be done with a 2K system, the color will be black. A flawless black finish is tricky to achieve, I am curious myself how it will turn out. Buckle up!
