Haber akışı

Jennifer Franklin
Foilowing 👀

Palo M
Welcome! Top quality kit so far.

Mick Burdett
What kit is it Palo?

Palo M
Made by Meng

Mick Burdett
Are you using workable tracks with kit?

Jakko ‌
> A bit worried about the tracks, that looks like a lot of work.

I just took a look at the instructions, and they seem OK. Use the jig that Meng gives you to ensure the links are lined up correctly and insert the pins like the instructions tell you, and I suspect it will be fairly painless. At least you won't have to glue a whole bunch of parts together for each link.

My tip would be to do this in stages while you're working on the rest of the model: a bit now, a bit later, etc. If you wait until the rest of the model is finished and "have to" do the whole track at once, you'll probably get bored senseless 🙂

Palo M
Mick - yes, using the tracks that were in the kit.

Jakko - that sounds like a reasonable idea. I'm quite far along the construction of the lower hull, will build some links of the tracks.

Jakko ‌
The way I normally do this is to put links together until I get bored with the job, then put them aside again and continue later 🙂 I would also advise to first clean up all the links and put them in a container, rather than cleaning up some and putting them together, then cleaning up some more, etc.

Palo M
Only little progress since, adding missing pieces to the hull.

Robert Podkoński
Looks cool - perhaps uniform metallic paint would do the job...

Andrzej Rygiel
Thanks, Robert! I think I will leave as it is a this moment and would probably test some paints on it during my future builds 😉

Andrzej Rygiel
Also, a question to the more experienced car builders here I though of during building this car - what brand would you recommend for a hassle free build of an F1 car(s)? I am primarily interested in 1:20th or 1:24th scale models (1:12th are too big and expensive for me already) and the 90's and 2000's era of F1 racing when I was still actively watching the show.

Christoph Kunz
Watching with interesst.
I've done one landing gear yesterday, very fiddly.

J35J
I'm in. Following👍🏻

Jakub Biganovsky
I am wondering how landing gear subassembly will fit; it will be next step.

Cuajete
Well done so far. Following!

Finn
I'm in

Łukasz Gliński
Joining the party

Robert Podkoński
Taking a seat.

Nicolas
Joining the fun.

J35J
The kit looks more "build friendly" than the DH88 Mikromir kit 1:48.
Looking forward to see the final result 👍🏻

Jakub Biganovsky
Yep, Clear props brough realy high level of plastic kits. They are not same level as Tamyia/Eduard or...., but still very high.
Nice fitting and approximate details make a building friendly. Some small part surfaces keep milling prints due to local missing polishing of mould, but still fine.

Michael Kohl
Following closely your progress as I have an eye on this kit. Nice additions you make and valuable experiences you share.

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Cuajete
Good progress! 👍

Christoph Kunz
Thank you for your detailed buildlog.
I'm staying tuned.

Neuling
Good teamwork!

Danny Ray
This looks fantastic. I'm a bit jealous because I'm planning a build with a Sherman III (in British terms), Crusaders and Stuart's, Matilda's, etc (though maybe not all at once. I don't think 2nd El Alamein had ALL allied tanks fighting, from every era?)
Anyway, the build is for a tribute to my old grandad who co-drove Crusaders and Shermans. His unit was 10th Royal Hussars and if you see the markings and paint schemes they used, it's the most plain out of them all. No camo whatsoever. Also, rather than the yellow tinged sand/stone colour used by most, they used a brown (think it's RAL8000).
In order to be accurate I'll do it in the correct colours but I'd have liked to camo it up!
(By the way I'm very much a novice and it'll take me a long time to attempt this. I have over 40 kits to practice on though 😳😍😁🤓😂)

Scott Dutton
Don't worry about being a novice, just enjoy what you do, that way you improve

Danny Ray
Good advice Scott. Can you remember who made this kit? I'm having trouble deciding which one to go for. I'm contemplating plastic individual track links and using 0.2mm wire cut down as pins (no glue), so I guess that limits my choice? (By the way and I bet you get this a LOT. Isn't Dutton the name that Kevin Costner's family have in the show Yellowstone?. You ain't a Montana cattle baron, are you? 😃).

Danny Ray
Sorry. I saw the kit. It's a Dragon 6573. It doesn't have the correct Markings for my grandads memorial (10th Hussars, 2nd arm brig, 1st arm div) but they are available after market. I got some already actually from eBay. I don't suppose anyone here would know off the top of their heads if this type of Sherman fought at 2nd Alamein battle? It gets a bit confusing because Sherman III's were known as Sherman II's by the Brits. So I'm led to believe?

Danny Ray
Sorry for all the questions Scott but the aerials and pennants some use (like the 2 here), are they part of the kit or do you buy those separately? I've never seen them in any kit.

Jakko ‌
Aerials are easy to make from metal wire. I prefer 0.3 mm spring steel myself, which you can buy from model shops that cater to people who scratchbuild working models in metal, like those making ships, trains, steam engines, etc. The advantage of spring steel is that it will curve but not bend if you accidentally hit it, unlike brass or copper wire. Do use cutters suitable for it, though — it will ruin ones that aren't strong enough. Then just drill a hole slightly larger than the wire, as deep as you can, and superglue it in.

For the tracks, the MiniArt T41 or WE210 sets are probably the easiest choice if you want plastic ones. Slightly tricky to build, but not actually bad once you get the hang of it (and make a simple jig from some bits of wood). Stay away from Bronco, they will drive you crazy 🙁

T41 WORKABLE TRACK LINK SET (MiniArt 35322, 1:35)
WE210 Workable Track Link Set (MiniArt 35323, 1:35)

Danny Ray
Thanks Jakko. That's typical, I've just ordered some 0.3mm enamelled copper wire that I was planning on using as track link pins instead of the flimsy plastic ones that come with (I just bought a border models Crusader III for a planned memorial for my grandad, a co-driver on crusaders and shermans in 10th hussars in N Africa and Italy) a recent kit. These are the tracks I meant. Also as part of the memorial I was planning on getting a Dragon 6447 (the El Alamein one with magic tracks). They both employ these ridiculous plastic pins that are so thin they immediately bend , even if you manage to get them off the sprue intact! lol

Danny Ray
By the way Jakko. Can you buy the small penants they seemed to use so often in North Africa? I don't think I've seen them used elsewhere but they seemed to be everywhere in NA.

Danny Ray
Thing is, I'm a very, very green modeller. Built a few as a kid but only on my 4th build as an adult. The expensive Miniart and Border and Dragon kits will be done at a much later date once I've made lots of mistakes on cheaper ones. Also I'm still trying to get to terms with the airbrush I bought. Think I've bent the needle slightly already. I'm not the most practical person going but I really want to do a good job on this memorial build I'm planning with his medals and cap badges. His badges include one that has a WW1 male tank and the words "fear naught". They are great.

Jakko ‌
You could use the copper wire for aerials, too — just be careful you don't bend it. (OTOH, copper wire is also fairly easy to straighten if you do bend it 🙂)

As for the pennants, they were mainly a North Africa thing, AFAIK. They're easy enough to make yourself. Cut one from, say, aluminium kitchen foil, slightly longer than you need it to be. Wrap that extra length around the aerial, superglue it in place, and paint the pennant. (Best do this before adding the aerial to the model, though, as it will be much easier.)

For a Sherman kit, I would recommend the Asuka Sherman III over the Dragon one, really. I just don't like the way the Dragon Shermans go together, or the coarseness of a lot of their detail, but I do like the Asuka ones 🙂 Only thing is that this kit has the later style of suspension with the return rollers behind the bogies, unlike Scott's model, which has them on the top. If you've got photos of your grandfather's tank, though, you can probably check which kind his had.

Sherman III (ASUKA Model 35-017, 1:35)

Scott Dutton
Danny, Go the Asuka kit, much nicer.
Decals were from left overs and some aircraft ones and home made

Danny Ray
Thanks fellas. I think that sherman III was available during 2nd battle of el alamein. We brits called sherman III's sherman II's, i think. Unfortunately all photos of my grandads war were lost back in 1993. Im so glad i didnt buy tge dragon kit last night. Came very close!
Gonna get this today. Thank you both so much for your advice. Do you mind if i ask you both the odd question from time to time? Maybe i can add you both as 'scalemates'? 🙂

Danny Ray
By the way I think I already said but I already have some Sherman decals that were on a 10th hussars tank in NA and that was a major reason I was choosing the dragon kit, cos it has 10th hussars decals but it isn't a deal breaker cos I have them. They are a white rhino on a black pill shape and a white '67' on a red square and a blue circle with a '2' inside 🙂

Jakko ‌
Feel free to add me as a mate, and/or PM me if you want to ask a question you think I might have an answer to 🙂

The British didn't call the Sherman II a Sherman III — they called the "Medium Tank, M4" the "Sherman" because all the M-numbers were confusing, and then numbered them as follows: M4 = Sherman I, M4A1 = Sherman II, M4A2 = Sherman III, M4A3 = Sherman IV, M4A4 = Sherman V. At the second battle of El Alamein, the British Army had only the Sherman II and III in service. For the II, your best option is Sherman II (ASUKA Model 35-014, 1:35) as it's the correct very early type, with the early bogies (like on Scott's Sherman III) and the direct vision flaps in front of the drivers' hatches. For the Sherman III, use the kit I linked to earlier, but you will need to replace the bogies by M4 Sherman “VVSS” Suspen..t (ASUKA Model 35-L15, 1:35) which is hard to get unless you order direct from Asuka: tasca-shop.ocnk.net/product/480

Danny Ray
Jakko forgive me but why would I need to replace the bogies? I thought you said the Brits had Sherman III's at 2nd Alamein?
As an aside (and could possibly excuse my needing to replace them) he did go on to operate Shermans when the 10th Hussars were eventually redeployed to Italy). Though, it'd be a big diorama if it incorporated Libya and Italy! lol

I guess I could have a crusader for his earlier career and the Sherman III for the later career but If I'm honest, I'd prefer to make it accurate all to North Africa. Sorry if I seem a bit dim with the questions. Also I'll friend request you so I don't keep sabotaging Mr Dutton's thread! 🙂

Jakko ‌
Ah, yes, I didn't explain the bogies that well 🙂 Early Shermans had bogies with the return roller on top, which was the same model of bogie as used on the M3, AKA Lee/Grant. From late 1942 or so, though, the factories switched to the type with the return roller behind the bogie body.

All of the Shermans at El Alamein would have been produced when they still used the earlier type, but the Asuka Sherman III kit has the later style, which is correct for the latter part of the war in North Africa (and Italy), but not for El Alamein. By replacing the bogies, though, it will be. Of course, tanks with the early bogies kept them, so you can also see those in Tunisia or Italy.

gorby
Looks like an interesting project.

Jakko ‌
So far it's certainly been interesting 🙂 It's that I already had these parts and decided on this before Asuka announced their M4A3 (105 mm) kit, but I would advise anyone else wanting an M4 (105 mm) to just buy that kit and order an M4 engine deck from Asuka to put into it … (And make some other modifications, of course, like changing the rear hull to match.)

Villiers de Vos
The texturing came out very nice.

Jakko ‌
Thanks. I just hope it matches up with the molded pattern reasonably well once there's some paint over it 🙂

Rui S
I'm in 😎

Ben M
👀

Pepe
Inside

Villiers de Vos
Nice scratch building work.

Pietro De Angelis
Fantastic scratching work,
i'm also admiring it on missing-lynx,
congrats!

Jakko ‌
Thanks, guys 🙂 I wasn't going to add the wading trunk, but then I hit my head and decided to anyway … 😉

Danny Ray
You're like like a Messi compared to my Sunday league footballer in modelling terms. I mean, I even made a couple of mistakes on a recent airfix vintage kit 😇😂😂😂

Jakko ‌
Thanks, but I'm nowhere in the Messi leagues — more like messy leagues 🙂