Haber akışı

Harry Eder
Nice start! I will follow this project! 👍

George Williams
Looking great so far.

George Williams
Looking great so far.

George Williams
The decals look really good.

MS K
Thanks George. As expected, the quality of Cartograf decals is top notch 🙂

Robin (WhiteGlint)
This looks great! Decals look like painted on.
I really should start sanding down the gloss coat/decals like you did. In your comment you've written that no polishing is necessary. Will you just apply snew gloss coat over top after cleaning it a bit more?

MS K
Thanks Robin.
Llivery of this car is matt 😉 the reason for sanding is that removing the step in the decal, even on a matte surface, creates a smoother curved surface.

Christian W
I finally started this thing.

István Szücs
I'm curious for the final result!

Christian W
Me too 😉 I think I'm going on with that hood. The chances to get the right on ist nearly Zero.

Chris Parsons
Aah….been there, done that. I know your pain young Jedi!
I had the original as well at one time, re-powered with a 68 440 six pack, never going back to build another real "muscle car" but nice to have a representation of it at the least.
I converted the AMT 1971 body to a 73/74 body (it's a much cleaner mold) but used parts from Revell/ Monogram B body kits to get there in the end…musta used at least 4 other kits for parts. Scariest part was changing the rear side windows shapes from sweeping up to sweeping down. I may have pictures here somewhere…not sure but, I'm pretty sure I posted the build thread on Britmodeller if your interested

Christian W
@Chris ... That was my first thought when I read the first sentences, where you wrote that you converted the 1971 into that: the small window at the side and the c-post. I'll do a research on britmodeller to see, what you've done. On that point, it is too much work for me to go such a way. I want do have the kit done in December. I know, the details "under the body" could be better, but when it sits in the shelf, it doesn't matter somehow. For my needs, it is ok. It's only the hood, what concerns me for accuracy with the look to the movie car.

Christian W
@Chris ... I found your thread. But sadly there are no pictures anymore.
britmodeller.com/for..ger/#comment-3826045

Chris Parsons
Oh crap!
Sorry

Christian W
No problem 😉

Chris Parsons
I've found and added some images of my finished model here, no longer have images of the w.i.p. No idea what happened to them, you may be able to use (or not) for your build. The images are in my "Albums"

Bill Newcomer
I shall follow too.

Chris Parsons
That's nasty! I've had a paint do that to me as well! Never a good time!

Martin Oostrom
Tough luck Christian.

Bill Newcomer
I have never seen hobby paint crack like that. What is the carrier, enamel, lacquer, water?

Bob Hall
I thought it was cat hair at first glance and I was going to suggest, it time to shave the cat, but I see it's more of a deep rooted issue ! 🤔

Christian W
Thanks for your comments. First when I came into my hobby room I also thought it is a hair but... you see. I don't know, what went wrong. I used my rattle cans as on every model kit I built for years.
@Bill I don't know, what the colors are based on. As soon as I had no issue with them I didn't care.

The Dodge sits in a bath to get the paint of. After 24 hours the black was gone. Usually the primer stays on the body. In this case it was as usual 😄 but the hood is sticky and some parts of the body too. The crap goes on.

In the time of hoping and praying 😄 I took the bumper to get rid of that bumperettes.

Nigel Chapman
Is it a chemical reaction with the different paint colours?
Do you use the same paint manufacturer for your rattle cans?

Christian W
Maybe and no 😉
I do not know, whether it is a chemical reaction or something else. The manufacturer are different. I had the same issue with a
-> black Pontiac (easily 5 years ago - Pontiac Firebird - RIP | Album by Dominik (1:25)),
-> blue F40 (finished in 2017 - 1987 Ferrari F-40, Revell #7327 | Album by christian-w (1:24)) and
-> black Viper (Restoration in 2022). But the cracks came after some months or years and not within 24 hours.
-> KARR after
Now, when I'm writing this lines, I remember, that
-> another Pontiac got cracks in 2022 too (1989 Pontiac Firebird (red) for a friend - wip | Album by christian-w (1:25)).
The filler was the same but the body color was another manufacturer like on the Dodge. But the cracks came after clear cote. So ....

What do they have in common?
Filler? Yes. Only the Viper has old color under the new painting (it was a restoration - paint remover followed by a new paint job)
Color? Different manufacturer
Clear coat? Not all of them. Only KARR, the red Pontiac and F40.
Cracks came between 24 hours (Dodge), 9 months (red Pontiac) a couple years (F40). Also the time between the different layers vary or the question about a wet sanding and painting over it. There are a minimum of 2 days between the steps. Usually weeks, especially with clear coat.

I don't see a clear pattern.

shadowlight
Just some more thoughts about what do they have in common...
- moisture, temperature and air condition in your working room
- air pressure and paint thinner
I am very sorry that this happened to you btw.

Skyhiker
Not sure if this applies but cracks can happen if the under paint drys slower than the top coat. This can sometimes happen when you use a laquer or oil based paint and then add on top a faster drying acrylic or water based top coat that is too thick.

Christian W
Thank you for your suggestions.
@Skyhiker .... I think I can skip this reason mostly because. There were 9 days between base coat and the black. Before I painted it black, I wet sanded it and let it sit 2 days for drying. I think, that was enough time.
@shadowlight .... moisture and temperature could be a reason. Because I used my rattle cans for painting, I was outside. In this case in the evening hours and not middays. The day was sunny itself but when I painted it, the sun was nearly gone. Thanks! I'll keep that in mind.

Another little step done: removing the bumperetts.

Christian W
At the weekend I sanded a lot of the filler down. The surface should be smooth enough. Yesterday I did another try to get it black. This time I used ma airbrush to paint it. And I skipped another layer of base coat 😄 At this time I don't care. I just want to have the paintjob done.

Bozzer
Christian, I don't care what anyone says, picture 20 looks awesome, and I would've just rolled with that, and stuck it in a diorama of a kid, trying to fix it up. I doubt that I'd ever be able to get that look, and you nailed it by accident! I gotta admit though, that black looks nice 👍

Christian W
You've nailed it. That were my thoughts too. If the next try fails, then I'll go with a restoration project. I'm not a person who throws model kits into the trash.
Thank you for your lines.

Nigel Chapman
Christian, Your perseverance has paid off handsomely, that new paint job looks ace

Christian W
Thank you. Yesterday I took it but I didn't do anything with it. I'll go for another wetsanding job. Why? Hm. Stupidity is sometines an a-hole. When I brushed the underside of the hood, it went off of the "holder", flipped and landed with the freshly painted side on the ground of my paint booth. You can imagine, that tehre is still some dirt on the ground. So that dirt is now on the hood scoop. Lesson learned: keep the parts better on the "holder".
I guess, that I have to give it another layer of black before even thinking about doing the clear cote.

István Szücs
If it wouldn't be a movie car, I'd leave the body in semigloss black, it's very nice.

Christian W
I Know! It looks pretty good.
Yesterday I wet sanded it and it Looks good so far. Another paintjob will follow and then a clear cote. Hopefully it works.

George Williams
Hope it works out for you, Christian.

István Szücs
Christian: fingers crossed!

Christian W
Just for info: the Carger got a second layer of (satin) black. It looks good so far. Hoping, the clear cote turns out good.

Christian W
The next layer of clear cote came out good. This time I used 2K. It's good. Will to have a round of wet sanding and polishing.

Christian W
I'll say the interior is done. SO let's face the fact, that I have to lay hands on the body.

Chris Parsons
Very nice crisp clean work...well done

Dominik Weitzer
nice work on the interior 🙂

István Szücs
The white interior looks amazing with those wooden inserts! I only miss the flocking from the floor.

Christian W
Thank you very much.

@Istvan .... Maybe I'll pour a little powder in. I don't kno. It depends on that, how much will be visible when I put the body over it. I'll check that.

Christian W
I polished that thing but am not satisfied with the result on the roof and trunk. So I'm still undecided about what I'm going to do. The trend is towards another wet sanding and a new layer of clear coat.

Chris Parsons
You've inspired me to build another cha cha myself. Ya bugger!

Christian W
You're welcome 😉 I waited long for this built and it is a challenge for me. The paintjob at most.
Yesterday I put another layer of clear coat on it and I'm still not satisfied with it. Man....

Dominik Weitzer
The rear lights looking great!

Finn
Looking really good

Mirko Römer
Thanks Finn, some more chi-chi and it's accomplished.

Tom B.
Cool, I always like some modern AFVs 👍 Will there be a base for it?

Mirko Römer
Thanks Tom! I'm not sure about creating a base yet.

Simon Nagorsnik
Nice weathering!
You portrayed the Stryker well👍
Will there be a dmall dio for this?
Ps: The OKB tires are worth their money, aren't they?!😄

Mirko Römer
Thanks Simon, I'm working on it 😀The tires are pretty good, but needed some work to make them fit. Probably it might be easier on the Academy kit. The ones provided by Trumpeter looked quite small and thin.

Neuling
Top small scale build!

Mirko Römer
Thanks Neuling!

Mirko Römer
Figure, antennas, M240 with scratch hinge, then it's done.

Mirko Römer
Done. Can be seen live at this weekend's exhibition at Wiesbaden/ Mainz-Kastel.

Simon Nagorsnik
You did a good job on this dio mate!
Like all the details you`ve added
Thumb up 👍

Mirko Römer
Thanks Simon for your highly appreciated comment. Better pictures during the weekend, as everything is stored in boxes now.😀

Robert Podkoński
Congrats!

Neuling
Well deserved!

Mirko Römer
Thanks mates!! And thanks to the awesomne crew of PMC Main-Kinzig for having a stunning exhibition this year!

Guy Rump
Well deserved, congrats! 👍

Bruce Huxtable
Here, here! Superb, subtle creativity deservedly recognised 🙂

Mirko Römer
Thanks Guy and Bruce!

Robin (WhiteGlint)
Congrats!

Mirko Römer
Danke Robin! Warst Du auch in Meerholz am Wochenende?

Sarunas D
First time seeing this one being built!

Torsten
Follow 👀

James C
👀👍

Robin (WhiteGlint)
Welcome mates! No new pictures yet but I managed to work on the pre shading, so the actual paiting can begin soon.
To, hopefully, save me some trouble I will check some colour conversion tables and compare which I need for this tank and the Edelweiss.

As I intend to use my Tamiya paints instead of buying the ones in the guide I maybe have to eyeball the colours. So even if the colours are not completely accurate I want at least both tanks to look the same, if I am supposed to use the same blue on both, for example.

There are lighting kits for both tanks but I will simply paint the radiator style "exhausts" of their engines as the machines in the world of Valkyria Chronicles do not run on petrol or diesel but on a substance called "ragnite" instead. That is also one of the reasons there are no exhaust pipes on the tanks. Instead the "radiators" are molded in clear plastic, which I will paint in clear blue.

I am also not sure yet how much I will weather both tanks, probably only some light to medium chipping and a low amount of dust, dirt and splatters.

Robin (WhiteGlint)
First coats of paint applied. Next step I have to prepare and apply the masks before I can paint the second colour.

CaptGPF
Loved that game! Following!

Robin (WhiteGlint)
Managed to apply the camo but later I noticed I should have masked some areas on the tank's side too. Luckily it's hidden behind the armor skirts.
Need to paint the tools next.
Colour is probably not that accurate but oh well. I hope I can remember which I used for the blue. I had to do a bit of mixing. Need to apply them on the Edelweiss too.

Robin (WhiteGlint)
Made considerable progress on the Shamrock. Camouflage and weathering are done and the tank has been sealed in several coats of gloss coat before I applied the wash. After that it was another few cloats of flat varnish by Mr Hobby.
While that cured I painted the tools and then applied dark aluminium to all raised bolts or screws to make them pop a bit more.
Now the tank itself is done. On the pictures there is still missing a "hook part" that belongs to the tools. I found it in the meantime and it's drying after receiving some metal paint.

Next will be the base. Depending on how that will turn out I will apply a bit more dirt to the tank to make it looks not so out of place.

Torsten
Nice, looking forward to more 🙂

Mirko Römer
Striking doomsday paintjob! 🙂

Kate Ward
If I do them in batches of 8 I need 11 batches for each side. That helps me keep count.

Ben M
Ah, armor modeling. Endless tracks. Watching!

Kate Ward
Oh good, peer pressure, that'll keep me from slacking off. ^_^ I'm up to six 8-link sections of track so far, 16 to go. I had a panic moment where I was afraid I'd bought the wrong tracks, so the first thing I assembled from the Trumpeter kit proper was the sprocket wheels. And whew they do fit! Got a start on the lower hull too before bedtime.

Ben M
I've been curious about metal tracks. I find the plastic individual links hard to work with but maybe I just need more practice.