Haber akışı

Tim van Dooremalen
Where did you order it and how much did it cost? Prices seem very high over here in Europe... I have one of their Nascar kits and the quality is not that good.

Thomas Steinke
Ordered from Salvinos. Price was 63€ and about 25€ for shipment.

Guy Rump
Another post war aircraft, remember these when we lived at Leuchars low flying over the married quarters. 🙂

Nicolas
Following

Ekki
I'm in too.

Guy Rump
Made a start on the Phantom. Cockpit and pilots plus internal decals added. 🙂

Welcome as always Nicolas & Ekki. 👍

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Andre K, NordMito, Lukasz G, zhsv, J35J, Villiers DV, Bernd G & 1 other mate. 👍

Rolf Rolf
Nice, what's the kit like? I've been looking at getting it

Sergej I
Watching, good start! 👍

Guy Rump
Weights added to the nose. Internal part where cockpit will go sprayed Vallejo Model Air intermediate blue. Engine intake internals painted Vallejo Model Air Insignia white. 🙂

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Mr D, Sukhoi242 & Austin LAI. 👍

@Rolf Rolf, Thanks for the kind comment. The kit is quite complex with a lot of parts and, as with some of the newer Airfix kits you have to be accurate as the fit is very tight. Other than that, so far, so good! 👍

Guy Rump
Intakes added to fuselage and cockpit added. 🙂

Welcome Segej! 👍

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Tibor S & Matti T. 👍

DerMattes
Following 👍

Dave Flitton
Watching!

Mike Montgomery
I wonder if they got the engines right for the RAF Phantom. That's one area where kit manufacturers constantly get wrong.

Guy Rump
Fuselage now together. 🙂

Welcome DerMattes, Dave & Mike. 👍 @Mike, not certain about the engines, not an expert at all. 👍

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Sergej I, Mona, Dave F, Maciej B & Arif S. 👍

Mirko Römer
Nice progress 👍

Guy Rump
Air intake covers on, wings and flaps on as well. 🙂

Many thanks for the kind comment Mirko. 👍

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Martin G, Mirko R, Patryk S & Oliver. 👍

Guy Rump
All pf the flaps on, engine burners on, ready for primer. 🙂

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Jonathan L, Sergio O, Hajo L & Johann C. 👍

Guy Rump
Primer added and pre-shading. I have put the main canopy on to protect the cockpit. I'll be using the open canopies for the final result. 🙂

Many thanks mate for your interest and like Der Mattes. 👍

Guy Rump
Main underside done, Hataka BS Light Aircraft Grey, Hataka Traffic White, Vallejo Model Air Gun Metal & silver used. Next will be the camouflage on top. 🙂

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Dave & Neil. 👍

Guy Rump
Main base colour applied for camouflage (Hataka BS Dark Sea Grey) 🙂

Mr D
Looking good Guy 👋👍
Smart aircraft.
I have a little 1:144 one in the stash, lm going to do the German version.
Keep up good work 👍

Guy Rump
The camouflage, nose and tail planes now done in Hataka BS Dark Green & BS Dark Sea Grey, Vallejo Model Air NATO Black, Gun Metal, Silver and Aluminium. 🙂 Next will be varnishing and decals. 🙂

Thanks Mr D for your kind comment, looking forward to seeing your 1/144 scale one. 👍

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Sarunas D, Marcel, Bernd B & strds90. 👍

Mr D
Paint is looking really good, smart looking aircraft 👍

Stephen Lesley
I agree with Mr D, very smart looking paint 🎨! Following 👍🏻

Guy Rump
After quite a few sessions, the decals are now on, in excess of 250 of them! 🙂 Next will be the undercarriage and the weapons. 🙂

Many thanks for your kind comments Mr D & Stephen. 👍

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Rui R, David C, Djordje N, Dave F & Stephen L. 👍

Neuling
Good teamwork!

Danny Ray
This looks fantastic. I'm a bit jealous because I'm planning a build with a Sherman III (in British terms), Crusaders and Stuart's, Matilda's, etc (though maybe not all at once. I don't think 2nd El Alamein had ALL allied tanks fighting, from every era?)
Anyway, the build is for a tribute to my old grandad who co-drove Crusaders and Shermans. His unit was 10th Royal Hussars and if you see the markings and paint schemes they used, it's the most plain out of them all. No camo whatsoever. Also, rather than the yellow tinged sand/stone colour used by most, they used a brown (think it's RAL8000).
In order to be accurate I'll do it in the correct colours but I'd have liked to camo it up!
(By the way I'm very much a novice and it'll take me a long time to attempt this. I have over 40 kits to practice on though 😳😍😁🤓😂)

Scott Dutton
Don't worry about being a novice, just enjoy what you do, that way you improve

Danny Ray
Good advice Scott. Can you remember who made this kit? I'm having trouble deciding which one to go for. I'm contemplating plastic individual track links and using 0.2mm wire cut down as pins (no glue), so I guess that limits my choice? (By the way and I bet you get this a LOT. Isn't Dutton the name that Kevin Costner's family have in the show Yellowstone?. You ain't a Montana cattle baron, are you? 😃).

Danny Ray
Sorry. I saw the kit. It's a Dragon 6573. It doesn't have the correct Markings for my grandads memorial (10th Hussars, 2nd arm brig, 1st arm div) but they are available after market. I got some already actually from eBay. I don't suppose anyone here would know off the top of their heads if this type of Sherman fought at 2nd Alamein battle? It gets a bit confusing because Sherman III's were known as Sherman II's by the Brits. So I'm led to believe?

Danny Ray
Sorry for all the questions Scott but the aerials and pennants some use (like the 2 here), are they part of the kit or do you buy those separately? I've never seen them in any kit.

Jakko ‌
Aerials are easy to make from metal wire. I prefer 0.3 mm spring steel myself, which you can buy from model shops that cater to people who scratchbuild working models in metal, like those making ships, trains, steam engines, etc. The advantage of spring steel is that it will curve but not bend if you accidentally hit it, unlike brass or copper wire. Do use cutters suitable for it, though — it will ruin ones that aren't strong enough. Then just drill a hole slightly larger than the wire, as deep as you can, and superglue it in.

For the tracks, the MiniArt T41 or WE210 sets are probably the easiest choice if you want plastic ones. Slightly tricky to build, but not actually bad once you get the hang of it (and make a simple jig from some bits of wood). Stay away from Bronco, they will drive you crazy 🙁

T41 WORKABLE TRACK LINK SET (MiniArt 35322, 1:35)
WE210 Workable Track Link Set (MiniArt 35323, 1:35)

Danny Ray
Thanks Jakko. That's typical, I've just ordered some 0.3mm enamelled copper wire that I was planning on using as track link pins instead of the flimsy plastic ones that come with (I just bought a border models Crusader III for a planned memorial for my grandad, a co-driver on crusaders and shermans in 10th hussars in N Africa and Italy) a recent kit. These are the tracks I meant. Also as part of the memorial I was planning on getting a Dragon 6447 (the El Alamein one with magic tracks). They both employ these ridiculous plastic pins that are so thin they immediately bend , even if you manage to get them off the sprue intact! lol

Danny Ray
By the way Jakko. Can you buy the small penants they seemed to use so often in North Africa? I don't think I've seen them used elsewhere but they seemed to be everywhere in NA.

Danny Ray
Thing is, I'm a very, very green modeller. Built a few as a kid but only on my 4th build as an adult. The expensive Miniart and Border and Dragon kits will be done at a much later date once I've made lots of mistakes on cheaper ones. Also I'm still trying to get to terms with the airbrush I bought. Think I've bent the needle slightly already. I'm not the most practical person going but I really want to do a good job on this memorial build I'm planning with his medals and cap badges. His badges include one that has a WW1 male tank and the words "fear naught". They are great.

Jakko ‌
You could use the copper wire for aerials, too — just be careful you don't bend it. (OTOH, copper wire is also fairly easy to straighten if you do bend it 🙂)

As for the pennants, they were mainly a North Africa thing, AFAIK. They're easy enough to make yourself. Cut one from, say, aluminium kitchen foil, slightly longer than you need it to be. Wrap that extra length around the aerial, superglue it in place, and paint the pennant. (Best do this before adding the aerial to the model, though, as it will be much easier.)

For a Sherman kit, I would recommend the Asuka Sherman III over the Dragon one, really. I just don't like the way the Dragon Shermans go together, or the coarseness of a lot of their detail, but I do like the Asuka ones 🙂 Only thing is that this kit has the later style of suspension with the return rollers behind the bogies, unlike Scott's model, which has them on the top. If you've got photos of your grandfather's tank, though, you can probably check which kind his had.

Sherman III (ASUKA Model 35-017, 1:35)

Scott Dutton
Danny, Go the Asuka kit, much nicer.
Decals were from left overs and some aircraft ones and home made

Danny Ray
Thanks fellas. I think that sherman III was available during 2nd battle of el alamein. We brits called sherman III's sherman II's, i think. Unfortunately all photos of my grandads war were lost back in 1993. Im so glad i didnt buy tge dragon kit last night. Came very close!
Gonna get this today. Thank you both so much for your advice. Do you mind if i ask you both the odd question from time to time? Maybe i can add you both as 'scalemates'? 🙂

Danny Ray
By the way I think I already said but I already have some Sherman decals that were on a 10th hussars tank in NA and that was a major reason I was choosing the dragon kit, cos it has 10th hussars decals but it isn't a deal breaker cos I have them. They are a white rhino on a black pill shape and a white '67' on a red square and a blue circle with a '2' inside 🙂

Jakko ‌
Feel free to add me as a mate, and/or PM me if you want to ask a question you think I might have an answer to 🙂

The British didn't call the Sherman II a Sherman III — they called the "Medium Tank, M4" the "Sherman" because all the M-numbers were confusing, and then numbered them as follows: M4 = Sherman I, M4A1 = Sherman II, M4A2 = Sherman III, M4A3 = Sherman IV, M4A4 = Sherman V. At the second battle of El Alamein, the British Army had only the Sherman II and III in service. For the II, your best option is Sherman II (ASUKA Model 35-014, 1:35) as it's the correct very early type, with the early bogies (like on Scott's Sherman III) and the direct vision flaps in front of the drivers' hatches. For the Sherman III, use the kit I linked to earlier, but you will need to replace the bogies by M4 Sherman “VVSS” Suspen..t (ASUKA Model 35-L15, 1:35) which is hard to get unless you order direct from Asuka: tasca-shop.ocnk.net/product/480

Danny Ray
Jakko forgive me but why would I need to replace the bogies? I thought you said the Brits had Sherman III's at 2nd Alamein?
As an aside (and could possibly excuse my needing to replace them) he did go on to operate Shermans when the 10th Hussars were eventually redeployed to Italy). Though, it'd be a big diorama if it incorporated Libya and Italy! lol

I guess I could have a crusader for his earlier career and the Sherman III for the later career but If I'm honest, I'd prefer to make it accurate all to North Africa. Sorry if I seem a bit dim with the questions. Also I'll friend request you so I don't keep sabotaging Mr Dutton's thread! 🙂