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![1:72 Kyushu Q1W1 "Lorna" (Fine Molds FP-27) FP-27](/products/img/0/0/0/1072000-47642-41-t180.jpg)
Kyushu Q1W1 "Lorna" Imperial Japanese Navy Anti-Submarine Patrol Bomber
Fine Molds 1:72
FP-27 2017 Yeni kutu 20 August, 08:08
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20 August, 08:07
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bu öğeyi takas edilebilir / satılabilir olarak işaretlendi
20 August, 08:07
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yeni bir fotoalbüm ekledi.
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MyAlbum![View album, image #1 View album, image #1](/albums/img/4/0/0/1789400-135393-42-720.jpg)
1:35
WARNING. Note it's easy to fit the axel stubs the wrong way round. At least it is for idiots like me..... Now to figure ...
20 August, 08:05
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bu öğenin sahibi
![1:48 AH-64 Apache M230 chain gun (in parking position) for Hasegawa/Academy kit (ResKit RSU48-0324) RSU48-0324](/products/img/4/4/9/1503449-21997-19-t180.jpg)
AH-64 Apache M230 chain gun (in parking position) for Hasegawa/Academy kit 3D Printing
ResKit 1:48RSU48-0324 2023 Yeni araç
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20 August, 08:03
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yeni bir fotoalbüm ekledi.
25 11 July, 21:06
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Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment
11 July, 23:27
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OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!
12 July, 02:31
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Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.
12 July, 06:24
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Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.
16 July, 14:48
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Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….
16 July, 23:24
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DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.
20 August, 05:21
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As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.
If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.
Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.
20 August, 05:25
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Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.
What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.
20 August, 05:35
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In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.
Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)
20 August, 07:35
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The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent stryne from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
20 August, 07:59
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