Haber akışı

Robert Podkoński
Taking a seat, of course!

bughunter
Welcome Robert! Which one you want to take, the yellow or a green one? 😉

Please do not miss the project description, for the _VERY_ important reason for this project!

Robert Podkoński
👍 A green one, please 🙂

Marcel Klemmer
Hi Frank, I am in and do not need a seat. 😉

Ludvík Kružík
I'll sit down too. If I'm not mistaken, one green seat is still open. 😉

Spanjaard
I am certainly in

Martin Oostrom
Green two for me

David H
Be rude not to join in. 👍🏻

gorby
I'll join the audience as well. 🙂

bughunter
Hello my friends! A warm welcome to each and every one of you!

Working on the parts of this kit can be considered bodily harm! The bright yellow hurts your eyes and you can't see any details or damaged areas that need work. I would have preferred a more common gray!

Michael Kohl
Moin Frank. Nimmst mich mit?

bughunter
Aber sicher doch, wenn Du eine wilde Fahrt aushälst 😉

Kenneth
Hallo Frank, the set with lap belts only could be intended for the US Navy variant of the Stearman, the N2S. Until US entry in WW2, US Navy aircraft mostly did not have shoulder belts. I read this in a review of a 1/32 Vought Kingfisher while looking for seatbelts and wondering about the same thing for my 1/32 Revell/ICM N2S Stearman kit.

Juergen Klinglhuber
Schau ich mir auch an,...

bughunter
Welcome! Thanks Kenneth! That makes sense, as the kit offers also a yellow Navy plane with red stripes. Luckily my wife want it blue-yellow. All the pictures I found shows also shoulder belts, but that was mostly still flying machines and I guess the shoulder belts was added later.
I had already downloaded the ICM manual as an additional reference and looked at reviews because of an oddity on the upper wing. More on this later.

bughunter
Because I was still in soldering mode after the seats, I immediately turned my attention to the tank on the upper wing. I like the look of the metal fuel tank now.

Robert Podkoński
Perhaps you will find my photos useful for your build:
Hangar 10 | Album by podkon

bughunter
Yes, definitely 👍 Thanks!

bughunter
Found a nice page: stearman-aero.com/

bughunter
The wing is yellow again, but now the look is better!
I used here MRP-142 Orange Yellow. If someone remembers my Piper: the yellow was "Dark Chrome Yellow" also from MRP. Even this one here called "Orange Yellow" it looks more yellow compared to the Piper.

Ben M
👀

Alec K
I was just wondering where the heck is Bughunter, and here he is! Lovely progress and topic, following of course 👍

bughunter
Welcome Ben and Alec!
The lower wing is now also painted yellow. I only not sure about the blue. I want to go with the darker later blue, tried AK Pure Blue, but I will also try others.

Jakub Fiala
Nice work on this interesting type of aircraft so far 👍 Following for sure!

Ben M
Love these old trainers. They used to show up at airshows a lot when I was a kid.

Greg Baker
Sign me up!

Zbynek Honzik
A joy and pleasure to follow such a project! 👍

Christoph Kunz
Ui, da habe ich den Start ja irgendwie verpennt. 🙁
Aber jetzt bin ich dabei.

Kenneth
Noch was, je nach dem, was das Vorbild ist: Part 71 in Point 4 of the instructions is in my opinion not correct for a WW2-era Stearman. Such a box typically houses a radio, intercom, transponder etc. on modern, restored examples

David Taylor
Watching.

bughunter
In the spirit of "Piano man": the regular crowd shuffled in ...
Welcome!
Oh, can someone wake up Kyle? 😉

Juergen Klinglhuber
Kyle! - come on, you will miss a good portion of the show and have to put the stool again in the back... 😉 Just kidding. It is never to late for a bughunter-show

bughunter
Kenneth, thanks for the hint! Interestingly the Eduard manual of the PE set here on SM told me to remove the mount points for this part 71. After that hint I checked some pictures of original machines and found the modern equipment. So thanks for the confirmation! After my PE set arrived I found out the remove of that mount points is missing in my paper version! Luckily I have checked the corrected online version first.

I would like to build a original equipped plane, but this is somehow limited. I have only the kit decals for a US Army plane "136" dated 1941. There is no serial number mentioned. I have not found photos of that plane yet. So I will build it according the information I have, with "educated guesses" on some points. Later more.

bughunter
I made the instrument panels. May be you know the Eduard sandwich method of multiple PE parts? Here we have a special thing!

Kenneth
Fuselage innner side colours are also totally wrong in the instructions (overall aluminium). See flugzeugforum.de/thr...103126/post-3062086 where I posted some thoughts about this.

The „thick" plate on the instrument panel which you chose is correct for the period, it's a padding saving an unfortunate student pilot's face when smashing it against the instrument panel…

bughunter
Kenneth, thank you very much for your great support 👍 Highly appreciated!
Now I understand, why the bolts of the instruments are hidden by this padding.
According to your picture I painted the fuselage halves bright linen and added the read brown tensioning varnish. It will not be very visible after closing the halves.

The inner structure is not in scale: much too thick! As it will be not very visible later I do not go the extra mile to replace the structure by brass wires!
Did someone say Jehovah? 😎

bughunter
The seat belts (what a fiddly job), the seats and the cockpit as a whole are finished. What beautiful interior!

Have I forgotten something, or can the fuselage halves be glued?

Ben M
Pancakes! (IYKYK)

gorby
Lovely work on the cockpit Bugs. 🙂

Kenneth
Looks perfect 👍 I was wondering whether there shouldn't be a fuel cock (the red lever on the lower left side in the front cockpit) in the rear cockpit as well, but found quite a few photos were this indeed not the case (but also some with one).

And while the ICM fuselage structure is indeed very delicate, it stops short of the rear cockpit!

bughunter
Thank you mates!
Beside the thick structure it is a nice kit (and Eduard PE set) with great fit. Sometimes even with the famous Tamiya click 🙂

@Ben Pancakes?! You say if you know you know, but I do not know 🙁
If you mean the upholstery of the seats - I think that this task was taken over by the parachutes.

bughunter
The kit includes a clear lamp to be installed on the back of the fuselage for Navy and Army. I have not found a reference photo.
Is this perhaps an anti-collision light on modern aircraft? Add it or leave it out?

Kenneth
That fuselage lamp (probably a modern strobe light) does not appear in the manual available on the Stearman Aero site (p. 105)… from which I've also just learned that the red lever I mentioned earlier is control lock and not a fuel cock.

bughunter
Thanks for the confirmation of my guess Kenneth! I glued stretched sprue into the socket for later sanding.

René "Lord Bilbo" Bartholemy
Bughunter "not going the extra mile"? 🤔
Usurper!
What have you done to the real Bughunter? 🤣

bughunter
Don't worry, I'm okay. I still go the extra mile, but where it makes sense and is visible.
The fuselage is now closed and other small things done.

Alec K
You are making a lightning progress Frank. I can barely keep up! The added detail is, as usual, superb 👍

babak chalangi
definitely watching this

bughunter
Alec, that is a Revell Level 4 kit with only 58 parts according to the box. Ok, the PE set and the belts doubles the number and there is room for a little scratch work, but the fit is fantastic! That saves a lot of time.
I have the Mr.Paint True Blue on order and hope it will arrive soon.

bughunter
Some more little details are prepared, for example a Venturi pipe. This idea is maybe useful for other types.
But I also decided to go the extra mile to meet all expectations and made it possible to mount the rudder in an angled position for more liveness.

Martin Oostrom
Great work from the master

Ludvík Kružík
Your work is gaining momentum. It's a pleasure to watch the model grow under your hands.

TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)
How could I miss this build .... very very nice progress so far and kudos for the soldering work!!!! I was thinking of this approach very often, but I´m too scared and always came back to CA removing the excess with debonder. Watching this build with interest 😊

bughunter
Thank you mates for your very kind words!
@Thomas I was lucky enough to have been drilled in the art of soldering at a young age during my training as a telecommunications technician. Even though my studies were more theoretical afterwards, I now have 45 years of soldering experience. It was therefore obvious to use this experience in model making. This is also how I soldered my strip downs (see projects) 🙂

TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)
Well, that explains it all - you can be glad having this kind of skills man 🤘

bughunter
Today the MrPaint "True Blue" arrived - exactly the beautiful shade I hoped for! Not too dark and not as bright as some of the actual airplanes flying around. With a hint of turquoise as often discussed.
The paint shades of the Mr.Paints are very nice, some examples: the Dark Chrome Yellow on my Piper (I was asked during the last exhibition about it), the PC12 on the Sopwith Triplane (some chocolate brown), the linen color shades .... and this True Blue is no exception 👍

Desert Marlin
Looking great!

Kenneth
Tolles blau 👍 Sieht sehr richtig aus!

Juergen Klinglhuber
Spitze !! 👍

bughunter
Thank you mates!
After some clear gloss coat I started to apply the decals. I also had an idea for a little scratch work - stay tuned!

Martin Oostrom
Marvellous work

bughunter
Thanks Martin!

Alec K
Scratch work?! Can't wait!

bughunter
Alec, you will need a bit of patience as I have to do other things first.
The wings are decorated. When the decals (and softener) are dry I can add more clear coat. The fuselage is not yet completed.

Desert Marlin
Nothing more pleasing than a fine "yellow-wing" from an era long passed!!!

Ricardo Reis
Another beauty? Arriving late, but I guess still on time! 👀

bughunter
Thank you mates!
Ricardo, it will have to be a beauty if my wife wants me to build this machine! There is still a lot on the ToDo list ....

Alec K
Patience I do have 😉. Your progress is superb 👍

Kyle DeHart
I am late, but I am here!! Up to your usual fantastic standards so far, my friend. Beautiful work. My father recently got to take a ride in a restored Stearman and had a blast with it!! So I think this is very cool indeed.

bughunter
Very nice to see you here Kyle and thanks! A ride in a Stearman would be nice indeed.

bughunter
After the wings was painted with satin coat to protect the decals I could realize my idea for which Alec has been waiting! Maybe some others too?

I had read somewhere that the position of the bracing on this model is incorrectly marked. Think again, when I leafed through the original manual I saw small windows to enable the check of control linkages etc instead of rigging points!

If Eduard has already realized the pulleys under windows so nicely on the Camel wings, something should work here too.

Desert Marlin
Looks fantastic. I like when these little treasures get found!

bughunter
Thanks!

There is still work to be done on the fuselage, but I was more tempted by the engine. Its done but ignition wires needs to be added.
I mentioned the thick push rods, here a ref pic for comparison (Source enginehistory.org):
[img1]

Landlubber Mike
Wow, this is incredible work man! The Eduard PE has some nice details, but your scratch details take this model up a few notches for sure. Well done!

Kyle DeHart
Beautiful work. I very much like how that engine looks. Will add nicely to the finished build with so much visible. Your replaced pushrods look perfect. An excellent touch.

Alec K
Great work on the engine. I also like the position light idea! One always learns something from your builds 👍

bughunter
Thank you mates!
Alec, there are typically six different sizes on the Eduard PE frames. Since I used the larger ones, the smaller seem to be usable for you 1:72 guys.

bughunter
Next chapter was the undercarriage - I'm happy with the look!

Juergen Klinglhuber
You can be happy - it is looking alright & very good. 👍 👍

bughunter
Thank you Juergen! I wanted to have the bird ready by the end of the month, but that could be tight.

Martin Oostrom
I know a certain Spanjaard, who bought the exact same kit today, in the hope of emulating your great build

Spanjaard
i was following before, but now I am certainly even more interested!!

Spanjaard
emulating will be great, but it will be far from it,no doubt 😉

bughunter
Thank you for the info Martin! Luckily I know you both 🙂
@Spanjaard That was a great decision! That is a wonderful kit! I was really positively surprised. The yellow plastic is bad, but the details and fit is great. It is not very old and seems to be created by Revell USA. You will have fun with this kit!
BTW I have an unused set of the colored Eduard PE set (the little one FE785) as I found the bigger set later.

I added new pictures as the wooden prop is in shape 🙂

Spanjaard
i just ordered Boeing Stearman PT-17 (HGW Models 148549, 1:48) and PT-17 (Eduard 49785, 1:48) 😄

bughunter
Oh, someone would like to go a long way, or even the whole way?

Lorraine Lin
Wow, the wood airscrew really looks great👍

bughunter
Thank you very much Lorraine!
Real wooden propellers are my trademark on the biplanes. The propellers with different kinds of wood look even nicer (see my other projects), but that would not have been authentic on this type.

Spanjaard
all the way, as far as i can 🙂

Martin Oostrom
Maybe you can order a custom made wooden propellor Spanjaard. I think I know just the guy, from Germany.

Spanjaard
or try to make one myself 😉

bughunter
It looks like I'll have to come up with something here and there to make the task not so easy 😉

Alec K
New prop looks amazing 👍

Spanjaard
ha ha ha, as if the bar was not high enough 😄 god that I do not plan to start any day soon 😛

Kenneth
Der Wahnsinn, der Propeller 😳

Palo M
I heard mixed comments about this model previously, but so far, it has been excellent. Maybe not at the level of the Wildcat from Eduard, but still goes together very well and the instruction manual is easier to follow than Eduard's. In a few hours today, managed to finish the cockpit and the main weapon's bay (unpainted for now).

Palo M
Is it just me where I got a point with the kit where I can't be bothered to continue? Filling a gap with putty and sanding it to get is smooth at the engine intakes and having no will to go on. Hope it's fixed soon so I get excited about the kit again

Palo M
I'm quite happy with the tester, I think it works, just want to wait for 24h to see how it changes color after drying. In the picture, the individual colours are hard to tell apart, but check the metallic effect on the right side - that's MRP "have glass" and it really needs a video to appreciate. From what I've seen so far, highly recommended!

Neil
Nice work Palo 👍 following...

Jennifer Franklin
Following

Palo M
Finally it's worth uploading a picture again. Apart from being busy with other things, there were lots of corrections in the engine exhaust area and some minor ones in the cockpit as well. First layer of black is on, will need at least 1-2 more.

Cristian A
Following, good job so far.

Palo M
Thank you Cristian! Taking a break for the summer, hope to continue in late August.

James C
Looking good 👍

Palo M
Disaster struck, with a big puddle of alclad Alu on a wing. Lots of cleanup work since, hopefully to be soon wrapped up. If all goes well, should be back to the state of last photo soon.

Jennifer Franklin
Foilowing 👀

Palo M
Welcome! Top quality kit so far.

Mick Burdett
What kit is it Palo?

Palo M
Made by Meng

Mick Burdett
Are you using workable tracks with kit?

Jakko ‌
> A bit worried about the tracks, that looks like a lot of work.

I just took a look at the instructions, and they seem OK. Use the jig that Meng gives you to ensure the links are lined up correctly and insert the pins like the instructions tell you, and I suspect it will be fairly painless. At least you won't have to glue a whole bunch of parts together for each link.

My tip would be to do this in stages while you're working on the rest of the model: a bit now, a bit later, etc. If you wait until the rest of the model is finished and "have to" do the whole track at once, you'll probably get bored senseless 🙂

Palo M
Mick - yes, using the tracks that were in the kit.

Jakko - that sounds like a reasonable idea. I'm quite far along the construction of the lower hull, will build some links of the tracks.

Jakko ‌
The way I normally do this is to put links together until I get bored with the job, then put them aside again and continue later 🙂 I would also advise to first clean up all the links and put them in a container, rather than cleaning up some and putting them together, then cleaning up some more, etc.

Palo M
Only little progress since, adding missing pieces to the hull.

Robert Podkoński
Looks cool - perhaps uniform metallic paint would do the job...

Andrzej Rygiel
Thanks, Robert! I think I will leave as it is a this moment and would probably test some paints on it during my future builds 😉

Andrzej Rygiel
Also, a question for the more experienced car builders here I though of during building this car - what brand would you recommend for a hassle free build of an F1 car(s)? I am primarily interested in 1:20th or 1:24th scale models (1:12th are too big and expensive for me already) and the 90's and 2000's era of F1 racing when I was still actively watching the show.

Christoph Kunz
Watching with interesst.
I've done one landing gear yesterday, very fiddly.

J35J
I'm in. Following👍🏻

Jakub Biganovsky
I am wondering how landing gear subassembly will fit; it will be next step.

Cuajete
Well done so far. Following!

Finn
I'm in

Łukasz Gliński
Joining the party

Robert Podkoński
Taking a seat.

Nicolas
Joining the fun.

J35J
The kit looks more "build friendly" than the DH88 Mikromir kit 1:48.
Looking forward to see the final result 👍🏻

Jakub Biganovsky
Yep, Clear props brough realy high level of plastic kits. They are not same level as Tamyia/Eduard or...., but still very high.
Nice fitting and approximate details make a building friendly. Some small part surfaces keep milling prints due to local missing polishing of mould, but still fine.

Michael Kohl
Following closely your progress as I have an eye on this kit. Nice additions you make and valuable experiences you share.

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Cuajete
Good progress! 👍

Christoph Kunz
Thank you for your detailed buildlog.
I'm staying tuned.

Neuling
Good teamwork!

Danny Ray
This looks fantastic. I'm a bit jealous because I'm planning a build with a Sherman III (in British terms), Crusaders and Stuart's, Matilda's, etc (though maybe not all at once. I don't think 2nd El Alamein had ALL allied tanks fighting, from every era?)
Anyway, the build is for a tribute to my old grandad who co-drove Crusaders and Shermans. His unit was 10th Royal Hussars and if you see the markings and paint schemes they used, it's the most plain out of them all. No camo whatsoever. Also, rather than the yellow tinged sand/stone colour used by most, they used a brown (think it's RAL8000).
In order to be accurate I'll do it in the correct colours but I'd have liked to camo it up!
(By the way I'm very much a novice and it'll take me a long time to attempt this. I have over 40 kits to practice on though 😳😍😁🤓😂)

Scott Dutton
Don't worry about being a novice, just enjoy what you do, that way you improve

Danny Ray
Good advice Scott. Can you remember who made this kit? I'm having trouble deciding which one to go for. I'm contemplating plastic individual track links and using 0.2mm wire cut down as pins (no glue), so I guess that limits my choice? (By the way and I bet you get this a LOT. Isn't Dutton the name that Kevin Costner's family have in the show Yellowstone?. You ain't a Montana cattle baron, are you? 😃).

Danny Ray
Sorry. I saw the kit. It's a Dragon 6573. It doesn't have the correct Markings for my grandads memorial (10th Hussars, 2nd arm brig, 1st arm div) but they are available after market. I got some already actually from eBay. I don't suppose anyone here would know off the top of their heads if this type of Sherman fought at 2nd Alamein battle? It gets a bit confusing because Sherman III's were known as Sherman II's by the Brits. So I'm led to believe?

Danny Ray
Sorry for all the questions Scott but the aerials and pennants some use (like the 2 here), are they part of the kit or do you buy those separately? I've never seen them in any kit.

Jakko ‌
Aerials are easy to make from metal wire. I prefer 0.3 mm spring steel myself, which you can buy from model shops that cater to people who scratchbuild working models in metal, like those making ships, trains, steam engines, etc. The advantage of spring steel is that it will curve but not bend if you accidentally hit it, unlike brass or copper wire. Do use cutters suitable for it, though — it will ruin ones that aren't strong enough. Then just drill a hole slightly larger than the wire, as deep as you can, and superglue it in.

For the tracks, the MiniArt T41 or WE210 sets are probably the easiest choice if you want plastic ones. Slightly tricky to build, but not actually bad once you get the hang of it (and make a simple jig from some bits of wood). Stay away from Bronco, they will drive you crazy 🙁

T41 WORKABLE TRACK LINK SET (MiniArt 35322, 1:35)
WE210 Workable Track Link Set (MiniArt 35323, 1:35)

Danny Ray
Thanks Jakko. That's typical, I've just ordered some 0.3mm enamelled copper wire that I was planning on using as track link pins instead of the flimsy plastic ones that come with (I just bought a border models Crusader III for a planned memorial for my grandad, a co-driver on crusaders and shermans in 10th hussars in N Africa and Italy) a recent kit. These are the tracks I meant. Also as part of the memorial I was planning on getting a Dragon 6447 (the El Alamein one with magic tracks). They both employ these ridiculous plastic pins that are so thin they immediately bend , even if you manage to get them off the sprue intact! lol

Danny Ray
By the way Jakko. Can you buy the small penants they seemed to use so often in North Africa? I don't think I've seen them used elsewhere but they seemed to be everywhere in NA.

Danny Ray
Thing is, I'm a very, very green modeller. Built a few as a kid but only on my 4th build as an adult. The expensive Miniart and Border and Dragon kits will be done at a much later date once I've made lots of mistakes on cheaper ones. Also I'm still trying to get to terms with the airbrush I bought. Think I've bent the needle slightly already. I'm not the most practical person going but I really want to do a good job on this memorial build I'm planning with his medals and cap badges. His badges include one that has a WW1 male tank and the words "fear naught". They are great.

Jakko ‌
You could use the copper wire for aerials, too — just be careful you don't bend it. (OTOH, copper wire is also fairly easy to straighten if you do bend it 🙂)

As for the pennants, they were mainly a North Africa thing, AFAIK. They're easy enough to make yourself. Cut one from, say, aluminium kitchen foil, slightly longer than you need it to be. Wrap that extra length around the aerial, superglue it in place, and paint the pennant. (Best do this before adding the aerial to the model, though, as it will be much easier.)

For a Sherman kit, I would recommend the Asuka Sherman III over the Dragon one, really. I just don't like the way the Dragon Shermans go together, or the coarseness of a lot of their detail, but I do like the Asuka ones 🙂 Only thing is that this kit has the later style of suspension with the return rollers behind the bogies, unlike Scott's model, which has them on the top. If you've got photos of your grandfather's tank, though, you can probably check which kind his had.

Sherman III (ASUKA Model 35-017, 1:35)

Scott Dutton
Danny, Go the Asuka kit, much nicer.
Decals were from left overs and some aircraft ones and home made

Danny Ray
Thanks fellas. I think that sherman III was available during 2nd battle of el alamein. We brits called sherman III's sherman II's, i think. Unfortunately all photos of my grandads war were lost back in 1993. Im so glad i didnt buy tge dragon kit last night. Came very close!
Gonna get this today. Thank you both so much for your advice. Do you mind if i ask you both the odd question from time to time? Maybe i can add you both as 'scalemates'? 🙂

Danny Ray
By the way I think I already said but I already have some Sherman decals that were on a 10th hussars tank in NA and that was a major reason I was choosing the dragon kit, cos it has 10th hussars decals but it isn't a deal breaker cos I have them. They are a white rhino on a black pill shape and a white '67' on a red square and a blue circle with a '2' inside 🙂

Jakko ‌
Feel free to add me as a mate, and/or PM me if you want to ask a question you think I might have an answer to 🙂

The British didn't call the Sherman II a Sherman III — they called the "Medium Tank, M4" the "Sherman" because all the M-numbers were confusing, and then numbered them as follows: M4 = Sherman I, M4A1 = Sherman II, M4A2 = Sherman III, M4A3 = Sherman IV, M4A4 = Sherman V. At the second battle of El Alamein, the British Army had only the Sherman II and III in service. For the II, your best option is Sherman II (ASUKA Model 35-014, 1:35) as it's the correct very early type, with the early bogies (like on Scott's Sherman III) and the direct vision flaps in front of the drivers' hatches. For the Sherman III, use the kit I linked to earlier, but you will need to replace the bogies by M4 Sherman “VVSS” Suspen..t (ASUKA Model 35-L15, 1:35) which is hard to get unless you order direct from Asuka: tasca-shop.ocnk.net/product/480

Danny Ray
Jakko forgive me but why would I need to replace the bogies? I thought you said the Brits had Sherman III's at 2nd Alamein?
As an aside (and could possibly excuse my needing to replace them) he did go on to operate Shermans when the 10th Hussars were eventually redeployed to Italy). Though, it'd be a big diorama if it incorporated Libya and Italy! lol

I guess I could have a crusader for his earlier career and the Sherman III for the later career but If I'm honest, I'd prefer to make it accurate all to North Africa. Sorry if I seem a bit dim with the questions. Also I'll friend request you so I don't keep sabotaging Mr Dutton's thread! 🙂

Jakko ‌
Ah, yes, I didn't explain the bogies that well 🙂 Early Shermans had bogies with the return roller on top, which was the same model of bogie as used on the M3, AKA Lee/Grant. From late 1942 or so, though, the factories switched to the type with the return roller behind the bogie body.

All of the Shermans at El Alamein would have been produced when they still used the earlier type, but the Asuka Sherman III kit has the later style, which is correct for the latter part of the war in North Africa (and Italy), but not for El Alamein. By replacing the bogies, though, it will be. Of course, tanks with the early bogies kept them, so you can also see those in Tunisia or Italy.